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From Loathing To Loving Kerala, Ft. Honda Drive To Discover 11

Perceptions can be dangerous. A perception you form about someone, or something, based on a short experience you’ve had with them is worse than not having any experience at all. I’ll tell you why. Based on your short, partly baked experiences, you tend to not just form a strong opinion about a subject, but also propagate it in your social conversations. Similar was the case with me, or with my prior experiences with Kerala, to be more precise. To be completely honest, It’s not that I have made only a short cursory visit to Kerala. In fact, I have been to the state many times. But as luck would have it, my visits have always been restricted to the coastal areas and backwaters. And again, as luck would have it, my experiences have often been marred by being at a specific location at the wrong time of the year, rains, heat, humidity, incessant traffic, and sometimes, the lack of a dram of quality whisky in the evening when I would want to unwind.

Coming back to experiences, however, my perception of Kerala was founded on my several not-so-favorable attempts at holiday with family in the state. So the food in Taj Bekal was rubbish, even when the resort was brand new and looked like a million dollars. Poovar was awfully hot and muggy. Kochi as a city was amazing, but the weather was often unpredictable. Kovalam was amazing, but that was primarily down to the fantastic property, food and service at The Leela Kovalam, everything else was pretty forgettable. My experience with the backwaters was also quite disappointing, what with the unfavorable weather, bad food and an oarsman who wasn’t half friendly.

So while I had my reasons to look at the eleventh edition of Honda’s Drive to Discover with skepticism, the eternal optimist inside me also pointed out that the regions I had previously covered in the supposed God’s Own Country were primarily coastal. Sure, I have visited Munnar a couple of times, but again, as luck would have it, the trips have been short, and rather hectic, and in a nutshell, not very memorable. The voice of wisdom within me, ever so intent to butt in whenever there’s a negative thought emanating in my cerebrum, quickly pointed out that to drive through the route proposed in this edition of Honda’s Drive to Discover was probably the last thing I needed to do, in order to discard Kerala from my future holidays altogether. Ergo, the skeptic in me found a strong reason to jump on the trip, as it would give him the indisputable right to voice his strong dislike for the state emphatically in social conversations. That, fortunately, was not to be.

This story, then, as you would probably have guessed at the very start, is about how a good experience can rescript your opinion about a place you always thought was bad, once and for all. After I came back, I was a convert, dreaming about driving through the pristine landscapes of this beautiful state all over again, at a slower pace, with my family in tow. I was so impressed with the destinations that I was planning another holiday in Kerala with my family within a month of my return. This piece, then, documenting my journey of Honda Drive to Discover 11, is about what made that happen. 

The journey for the eleventh edition of Drive to Discover, to be carried out with the Japanese maker’s legendary sedans was themed Sedan & Stunning. We gathered at the very conveniently located Taj Bangalore at the Kempegowda International airport, where we met a whole bunch of friends from Honda corporate and their PR team after a long time. The unusually lively bunch never fails to set the tone for a laughter-filled, carefree, and enjoyable drive. Joining the happy group, very graciously this time was Takuya Tsumura san, Honda Car India CEO and President, who joined us for the first leg of the journey. An avid wildlife photographer himself, Tsumura san has an uncannily friendly and accessible air about him, unlike many other Japanese head honchos I have met in the past. A quick look at his Instagram handle showcases how passionate he is about his work and his hobbies. Exquisite images of leopards and all sorts of wildlife adorn his social media timeline. With his friendly, enthusiastic demeanor he livened up the flag-off ceremony and made it even more special for the group. 

The drive from Bengaluru to Madikeri was a delight. Karnataka boasts to have some of the nicest highways and country roads anywhere in the country, and the alacrity of the administration in maintaining its road infra was on full display during the drive. Right from the time we were flagged off from the Taj Bengaluru at the airport, we descended upon some pristinely laid out tar, and the experience never changed throughout Karnataka. These are toll roads, sure, but the small amount of money your pay transforms your experience as a driver and cuts journey times down to almost half. 

I was driving the Honda Amaze, the petrol CVT variant of the made-for-India sub-4 meter sedan from the Japanese carmaker which is also the bestselling model from their stable. The second generation of the car incorporated all the learnings Honda had from the model’s first iteration. It’s got a robust body, high ground clearance, and a proclivity to take on speed bumps and rough surfaces which matches a compact SUV in some ways. It’s a tough car, which isn’t averse to being taken off the tar. 

There isn’t anything exceptional in the way of performance to write home about, but it goes about its job just fine, with the 1.2-liter i-VTEC offering sufficient grunt to let it deliver what’s expected of it. With its robust suspension and dependable handling, the trusty little Amaze put the sceneries comprising coconut groves, tall canopies of big trees, fields of rice and forests in a blur. The brief was to blitz our way to Madikeri, so we could cover as much ground as possible on the first day, reach Kerala, and then traverse through a mix of Karnataka and the God’s Own Country at a languid pace to soak in all the vistas. And so we did. The solitary stop we made en route was at a nondescript restaurant, which seemed to be quite popular with the local populace. The Mangalorean style food they served, though, was absolutely delicious. The hungry motoring journos ravaged their plates like a horde of famishing wild dogs. I hogged whatever was served in a jiff, and after a can of cola as a dessert, decided to be one of the first to leave, to make time and see as much as I could.   

As we entered Kerala, for the fag end of the journey, we left the four lane highway and got onto a small B-road offering gratifying views of the beautiful countryside – little bridges over small rivers, tiny Hills flanking the landscape and a more frequent occurrence of coconut groves. We tried to resist several times, but ultimately had to give in to the urge of venturing into one of the fields leading up to a coconut farm which seemed to have manifested itself into life out of story books. There was a small river flowing by too, to add to the visual charm. A few minutes of soaking in the views and a few pictures later, we decided to rush towards Madikeri so as to be able to explore its much talked about landscape before the sun made its way to the horizon.

The effort paid off as we entered Madikeri. We found the gates to the Coffee estates of one of the largest coffee producers in the country swung open, and we took the opportunity to use the Amaze’s generous ground clearance to traverse the undulating muddy path meandering through the farm. Lush coffee farms, with tall trees towering out sporadically, made for an amazing experience as the sun dimmed down. While it was not the first time I went through a coffee farm, the sprawling expanse of dark coffee plant leaves, peppered with bunches of raw coffee beans hanging off them in a lighter shade made the hour-long detour into the farm totally worth it. 

As it grew dark, we made our way towards our abode for the night, the WindFlower Resort in Madikeri – a beautiful mix of natural forests, coffee farms and some really luxurious large cottages with all the amenities one could ask for. While it was too dark to soak in the beautiful views and explore the vast resort, there was nothing to stop us from enjoying the beautiful spread of largely local delicacies that were laid out before us for dinner. None of the dishes were the undistinguishable concoctions of pre-prepared gravies and flavors that most hotels these days serve up. Freshly ground spices, and attention to detail in sourcing the ingredients was evident in the freshness and flavor of every dish included in the spread. From the succulent, juicy and exquisitely spiced pork, to the humble idli in the breakfast, everything had a distinct aroma and flavor, thanks to the freshness of the ingredients, and of course, the ability of the chefs. 

The resort also has a beautiful pool with giant trees growing out of it, and overlooking a small pond with fountains further below. The crisp, cool morning air, and the beautiful blue skies speckled with tufts of the whitest white little clouds made for a beautiful view as I looked upwards, standing on the sides of the cute little pond. I wished to spend more time at this charming resort, but the incredibly beautiful road leading up to Wayanad beckoned, and we had to leave early, if we were to enjoy this route, which is arguably one of the most beautiful in India. 

The vast premises of the WindFlower halls are a mix between rugged jungles and curated coffee farms. The road leading up to the hotel has also been left unpaved to add to the rustic charm. The refreshing view of coffee plants interspersed with exotic tall trees set the tone for an enjoyable drive through the day. We had the iconic City 1.5 i-VTEC as our steed, which meant more power, more speed, and more plushness, albeit with a little less ground clearance. 

Out of Madikeri, which is in close neighborhood with Coorg, you will be welcomed by cool weather, clear skies, and dual carriageway roads which are almost endlessly flanked by lush, pristine forests. The landscape is very peculiar and can’t be mistaken for any other region. The roads are well maintained too, although the odd pothole does appear every once a while unlike the toll highways of Karnataka where you simply fly through. As you make your way from Madikeri to Wayand, you would be crossing borders between the two states a couple of times, which translates to policemen checking your cars for bootlegged alcohol every time. 

It didn’t take us long before we realized that the jungles which were earlier interspersed by villages and small towns had suddenly grown denser, with more exotic, taller varieties of trees flanking the road. A few more kilometers later we realized that we had entered the storied Naharhole Tiger Reserve in Karnataka. Needless to say, we had crossed the Kerala boundary at this time, for the same national park is known as Bandipur National Park when it runs within the borders of Kerala. While essentially a Tiger Reserve, the Nargarhole forest is also home to thousands of other animal and bird species. Driving a few kilometers into the forest we spotted (quite literally) a mammoth of an elephant wandering and grazing nonchalantly, replete with its two massive tusks. Watching the beast go about its business in its natural habitat was a satisfying experience. 

From the Nagarhole Tiger reserve, we made our way into the coffee county of Karnataka. The indescribably scenic coffee plantations spanning regions of Kodagu, Kanoor, Bekkesodlur, Nalkeri Forest and Tholpetty took us through some of the most beautiful landscapes I have ever driven through in India. The never ending narrow roads, winding their way through coffee estates, with tall betel nut and other slim stemmed varieties of tall exotic trees flanking the road, made my co driver stick his neck out almost through the entire stretch as I steered the car through those lovely roads. For a few kilometers, the landscape changed, as the hilly terrain and coffee estates gave way to a landscape that vaguely reminded me of Goa with its lush pastures and small ponds with hills on the edges and a slightly warm ambient temperature. We took this opportunity to shoot our City in the Honda D2D livery. But this was not to last for too long, as the surreally beautiful coffee estates and exotic vegetation came up again and continued to charm us as we made our way through Kannur, just about kissing the Nalkeri Fortes and moving down south towards Tholpetty.

As we descended down the hills, and entered Kerala, the landscape changed once again, with the coffee plantations transforming into more homogenous forests of tall trees. Rolling hills with a consistent cover of grass replaced commercial plantations. As we rolled down further, the more densely populated Kerala welcomed us with its beautiful little hamlets, small village markets and some really beautiful churches. We also sampled some fruits we hadn’t seen before. We also took along some fresh harvest of apples and amla, purely because we couldn’t have not bought fruits that looked so fresh and so good. 

Lunch was arranged at the famous Jubilee Hotel in Sultan Bathery. The food at this amazing place is to die for. The restaurant serves up a spicy menu which is primarily seafood. From its specialty prawns on a stick to fish in a banana leaf wrap, everything is lip smacking good as long as you don’t mind a hit of hot spices. If you would just want a little sample of everything in a nice little package, you can also go for the joint’s famous seafood thali. If you are a foodie, and a seafood lover, you cannot miss this place while passing Sultan Bathery. 

A peculiar thing I noted about the small markets and towns of Kerala was the consistent sense of cleanliness and order. Every single village, town or market we passed through was absolutely spick and span. Not just is it a nod towards the highly literate people of the state who are also well-exposed to the rest of the world, but also towards the ability of administration which ensures that there’s absolutely no garbage or litter on the streets. Other states in the country can definitely take a leaf out of Kerala’s books. Apart from the cleanliness, the way the markets are set up, in a markedly organized manner was also a distinctive feature and reminded me of the streets of some of the South East Asian countries. That definitely is a compliment for an Indian market, a place where chaos and disorder often prevails. 

Our Penultimate stop for the day was the Muthanga Wildlife Sanctuary where a safari was organized for us. The jungles of this wildlife sanctuary are punctuated by large, tall trees with clearly marked trails for the diesel jeeps to follow. While the jungle itself is beautiful, and we did manage to spot a couple of elephants, what was disheartening was the loud clatter of the diesel engined safari jeeps, which, in my opinion, would dispel the wildlife from a good distance. What wasn’t entirely to my liking also was the fact that these safari jeeps were fully covered, making us feel rather claustrophobic inside, and preventing us from having a panoramic view of the environs. My humble suggestion to the authorities would be replace the noisy, polluting vehicles with silent, and more importantly, open ones. 

As the sun set, the convoy, which comprised the able trio of the Honda Amaze, City and City Hybrid cars made its way to the beautiful Saptha Resort in Wayanad. Apart from its modern architecture, this beautiful resort is also known for its infinity pool overlooking the hills and pastures. In the evening, an exceptionally talented magician wowed one and all with his performance. He took on some really tough challenges from the crowd, and came out with flying colors. The fact that he was performing right in the middle of the crowd, and not on a stage with a setup, also spoke volumes about his talent. A magician who can rely more on sleight of hand than gimmicks is the true disciple of the art. This one surely was. The Saptha Resort served up local cuisine, with a mix of continental and North Indian fare to satisfy every palate. The comfortable rooms overlooking the hills ensured that everyone got a good night’s sleep. 

For the next morning, while everyone else had the luxury of taking their sweet time and reaching Kochi, our next destination, at leisure, I had to catch a flight back to Mumbai the next evening. So I and a few other colleagues started off early, so as to reach Kochi in time. Now the roads in Kerala are a huge departure from what you’ll see in Karnataka. Even the busier routes in Kerala are single-carriageways, albeit with good upkeep and clear surface markings. Being a densely populated state, you don’t often see wilderness for extended distances or periods, though if you are traveling through the Nilgiris, which we did, you will not see much vehicular movement, which is sheer bliss. As we left from the Saptha Resort, into the sinusoidal terrain surrounding the beautiful Wayanad district, it didn’t take more than a couple of conversations for us to land upon some really beautiful hills and valleys covered in tea plantations for as far as our eyes could see. The cool, fresh morning air, with a tinge of green tea in it quickly lifted our spirits. We wound our windows down to let some fresh air in. For the next couple of hours we would be traversing the fabled mountains of the Nilgiris, known for their amazing weather, and of course, tea estates. 

As you make your way through these beautiful hills, every turn opens up a vista that’s a sight to behold. The view of hills covered in pristine tea farms, made of what looks like plants, but are actually trees kept short in height for optimal yield, quality and access is something that requires continuous upkeep and hard labor to look as beautiful as it does. Every peak you ascend through these hills would reward you with the sight of beautiful hills cascading one after another to the horizon. It’s a rather outworldly sight, with thousands of acres of mountain slopes converted into tea yielding farms – a monument of human enterprise and industriousness. As you approach some of the tea factories along the way, the air fills with a strong note of fresh Nilgiri tea. It’s an amazing experience to smell garden fresh tea out in the open, atop a hill, a lot before the cup touches the lip. These factories process the locally produced tea and offer it to interested buyers in the form of leaf or dust, the latter offering a stronger taste and body to the brew. We bought a couple of packets, and sampled a cuppa as well.

As we descended down, coconut plantations for as far as our eyes could see welcomed us. Through the narrow Kerala highways, we made a quick stop for lunch, and another one to buy a pair of riding boots which I needed for the Ladakh trip that was to follow this one, also with Honda. As we approached Kochi we were charmed to see the traditional architecture of the airport. In a sea of airports that are increasingly indistinguishable, this characterful building was a nice change. Even on the inside, the waiting areas boast of opulently appointed wooden chairs, with generous thigh support and cushions, unlike the industrialized metal or plastic chairs we are used to seeing in most airports these days. The flight took off on time, but the never-ending Mumbai chaos blocked my way for 40 precious minutes as I landed. That story, I’ll keep for another day though.

I couldn’t say a proper bye to my friends at Honda in person, as they were to stay back for another night in Kochi, but their fervor and hospitality went a long way in making the trip really enjoyable for me. Not to mention, the beautiful route they planned completely changed my perception about Kerala. I flew in with a truckload of skepticism, and flew back with an experience I won’t forget for a lifetime. The hills of Kerala and Karnataka are some of the most beautiful and lush you’ll find anywhere not just in India, but across the world. The weather is cool, the food is amazing and the views are to die for. So if you are planning a family trip and are out of ideas, the hills of Kerala and Karnataka are something this converted skeptic will strongly recommend. 

The post From Loathing To Loving Kerala, Ft. Honda Drive To Discover 11 first appeared on Motoroids.


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