Born 1906 in Camberley, English-American fashion designer Charles James started his career as a milliner, and opened his first shop in Chicago at the tender age of 19. He called this Charles Boucheron, borrowing the surname from a friend.
James has been called America’s first couturier. He is famous for his beautiful, sculpted ball gowns and tailored daywear. He is one of the most influential fashion designers of the 20th century and continues to influence new generations of designers.
James retired in 1958. His last years were plagued by drug abuse and decline. The talented designer died in 1978, aged 72. Take a look at these vintage photos to see stunning designs by Charles James in the 1940s and 1950s.
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| Charles James gowns photographed by Cecil Beaton for Vogue, 1948 |
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| Charles James' figure-eight skirt is shown in an ensemble meant for tropical evening wear, rather than beach attire worn by model Betty McLauchlen, photo by Martin Munkacsi, Harper's Bazaar, 1940 |
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| Liz Gibbons in green satin evening coat by Charles James, photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe, 1940 |
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| Millicent Rogers in gown by Charles James, photo by Horst P. Horst, 1940 |
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| Betty Threatt is wearing a hat made up of gold surplus Navy braid by Chanda, silver faille dress by Charles James, Kislav gloves, photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Harper's Bazaar, November 1946 |
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