A plant’s growth depends on several nutrients. A soil test determines how much of these nutrients are in the soil. A soil test report is then created based on the soil test results. It will also tell you how acidic or basic your soil is and how much and what kind of fertilizer and lime should be added to it to ensure maximum plant growth. Using this method, you can tailor your soil fertilizer and lime applications based on what your plants need.
The guidelines will help prevent nutritional deficiencies (in the case of under-fertilizing) and problems associated with over-fertilizing, such as excessive vegetative growth, delayed maturity, and salt burn. It can also prevent pollution caused by excessive fertilizer use. Testing the soil is important because, in some regions of the state, the soil already has high levels of phosphorus or calcium, and the pH may already be in the proper range. As a result, random lime or phosphorus fertilizers applications may result in nutritional imbalances that may compromise plant health.
Samples of soil: How to collect them
It is necessary to collect eight to ten core samples combined into one composite sample. Samples should be taken from the surface to a depth of 6 inches in all regions except lawns, where a core sample should be taken from 2 to 4 inches deep. The core samples can be collected with a basic garden trowel.
Landscape specialists can gather soil core samples with a soil probe, which will cause minimal damage to the lawn.
Put the core samples in a clean plastic bucket and thoroughly mix them. Keep sampling away from lawns, shrub beds, and vegetable gardens that have been fertilized or limed differently. These should be sent in as individual composite samples. It is critical to utilize clean sampling equipment. Residues of pesticides or fertilizers will produce false results. Furthermore, the sample must not be very wet before being sent to the lab.
Bring a minimum of 2 cups of soil for each composite sample to your county Extension office in a clean jar or zip-lock bag. Make a note of whatever section of your yard, landscaping, or garden the sample represents. Fill out the information on a soil test bag, fill out a record sheet, and tick the appropriate boxes for the analyses you want at the Extension office. A basic soil test costs a few dollars. Each soil test yields objective, scientific data on:
• The pH of the soil.
• Phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, zinc, manganese, copper, and boron levels in the soil.
• Fertilizer and lime suggestions for the plants you’re growing (if applicable). (Each soil sample can include up to four different plant or turfgrass classifications.)
How many samples should you take?
A composite soil sample from each yard or garden region must be dug and tested. Typical examples are one composite sample in your grass area, one in any foundation or perennial bed, and one in your vegetable garden. Take a separate soil composite sample from the problem area and the sample from the non-problematic area if you have a problem area where plants or turfgrass do not seem to grow properly.
Sampling Period
If you plan to plant a garden, establish perennials, or fertilize your lawn, you should take soil samples several months before planting, so the lime has plenty of time to react with the soil.
The results of soil testing
The Agricultural Service Lab will send you a copy of your soil analysis via email or regular mail within seven to fourteen days. It will also be sent to your county Extension office. Your soil analysis will also include a bar graph that displays the number of soil nutrients identified. A section on the first page will tell you how much lime to apply per 1000 square feet and include specific comments on the last page. By viewing the comments area, you can find out what fertilizer(s) you should use, how much you should use, how much you should use, and when you should apply it. Your soil test record sheet will tell us how to adapt these suggestions to the type of plant(s) you intend to grow. To achieve optimum plant growth, it is vital that the soil pH is in the right range and that the nutrient bars on the soil report are at the upper end of “adequate.” This is done by applying the recommended fertilizer and lime.
How to Read a Soil Test Report
You can determine your soil’s pH by how acidic or alkaline it is. It is directly affected by soil pH. Soil pH ranges from zero to fourteen, with seven being neutral. The acidity of a solution is represented by numbers fewer than 7, while the alkalinity is shown by numbers greater than 7. Different plants grow at different soil pH levels. The acidic soil is ideal for azaleas, rhododendrons, blueberries, and conifers (pH 5.0 to 5.5). A moderate acidic soil is ideal for vegetables, most turfgrasses, and most ornamentals (pH 6.0 to 6.5). The centipedegrass species thrives in acidic environments (5.5 to 6.0).
Plants require three nutrients to grow properly: primary, secondary, and micronutrients. Three nutrients are essential: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). The plant requires smaller amounts of secondary nutrients, such as calcium, magnesium, and sulfur. However, these nutrients are equally as important for proper plant growth as the essential nutrients. The amount of zinc (Zn), manganese (Mn), copper (Cu), and boron (B) needed by plants is relatively modest. It is fairly easy to correct secondary and micronutrient deficiencies by maintaining the pH level at its ideal level. A key supplier of calcium and magnesium, dolomitic limestone boosts the pH of acidic soils.
The roots of plants absorb nitrogen in the form of nitrate (NO3–) and ammonium (NH4+). Tests for nitrogen aren’t suggested due to their variable availability in soils due to their mobility. The soluble forms of nitrogen are highly water-soluble and travel rapidly through the soil profile with rainfall and irrigation. Because of this, the amount in the root zone fluctuates over time. Your recommendations will depend on the specific needs of the plants you’re raising.
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