How to Block
Blocking is a term used to describe the process of pinning the Crochet out to the proper shape and size. It separates the stitches and relaxes them into shape.
I have been crocheting for close to 50 years (at the time of writing this), and these are some of the ways I do it
See FAQs for more information (coming soon)
Tools required
- something firm that pins can be pinned into
- rust-proof pins
- spray bottle
- towels or plastic
- measuring tape
- optional, steam iron or steamer
- optional, blocking templates
Method
The first step is to sew in all loose ends of the crochet item
Then you need to choose your blocking mat. (see FAQs for ideas)
Make sure you have one large enough to lay your item flat
Now is a good opportunity to wash your crochet item if desired, and rinse well
If not, decide whether you want to do a dry steam block or wet block, or spay only
For wet blocking only. Submerge the item fully, and soak for several minutes.
Remove and squeeze well. Do not wring
Roll into a towel, and press to remove more moisture
Blocking square or rectangle items
Measure the edge, and pull the left side down to match the measurement.
If you have a grid you can easily line it up. Do the same with the bottom and side of the item
If you have a grid you can easily line it up. Do the same with the bottom and side of the item
Remove pins, and repin as needed until every edge measures the same
Push the crochet across, rather than stretch with pins
Push the crochet across, rather than stretch with pins
Be sure to use a lot of pins on the outside edge, or pin in a row very close to the edge instead of the last row.
Don’t pull pins in the last row too much, avoiding a scalloped edge
Don’t pull pins in the last row too much, avoiding a scalloped edge
Be careful not to get the scalloped edge |
Finished |
Blocking circles and snowflakes
Decide on your blocking template, matching number of spokes, if you’re using one. I prefer to use one on round items to get the shape even
I like the ones from here: http://katecrochets.blogspot.com/2006/11/blocking-guides-for-doilies-and.html
Some people just stretch the outer edge, this just stretches the stitches, and may make the work uneven. It's a much better idea to put pins in at regular intervals
I like the ones from here: http://katecrochets.blogspot.com/2006/11/blocking-guides-for-doilies-and.html
Some people just stretch the outer edge, this just stretches the stitches, and may make the work uneven. It's a much better idea to put pins in at regular intervals
Line up the center of the wet or dry item with the center of the template or board. Pin it in the center
Decide on a row of the doily close to the center. Line up with the spokes of the template. Push it towards the outside, pin.
Line up another spoke with the same row of crochet, pin again
Do this all the way around.
Then decide on another row, and repeat the process
Continue until you reach the edge of the crochet item
Have a close look at the item, to see if everything is even, and if any more pins are needed
Have a close look at the item, to see if everything is even, and if any more pins are needed
Be sure to use a lot of pins on the outside edge, or pin in a row very close to the edge instead of the last row. Don’t pull pins in the last row too much, avoiding a scalloped edge
If you choose to spray block, spray all over, making it slightly damp and then leave it somewhere to dry thoroughly
Steaming All Shapes
Now you can either spray with water till damp and then steam the item, or just steam on the dry item
To steam, use a steamer, or iron on highest setting with steam selected
Hold the iron or steamer about 5 cm away from item, and hold for 10 -15 seconds in each section before going to another. Do not touch the iron to the item
Until the whole item has been steamed
Leave the item in an airy place until cold and fully dry, possibly more than one day
When fully dry remove the pins
And it's done