Several brands and products on store shelves may be useless/ineffective or contain unsafe ingredients. Here’s how to choose a quality sunscreen that’s worth it.
So the Sun is finally come. And along with the pleasures of warm weather and more time enjoying the great beaches and outdoors, the usual host of issues and confusion about Sunscreen are back. The tussle to separate fact from fiction has become a yearly ordeal as news reports trickle in and clickbait headlines scream apocalyptic warnings.
The fortunate news is, as more people get to know of the importance — and potential shortfalls — of sunscreen, an increasing amount of new research is emerging.
Case in point: The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) published a proposal in February 2019 in the Federal Register for updated sunscreen regulations. And in May 2019, the Environmental Working Group, a nonprofit advocacy group, released its 13th Annual Guide to Sunscreens.
The sad news is the new EWG report discovered roughly two-thirds of the sunscreens available in the United States don’t provide adequate protection or contain ingredients that the FDA has not yet established are safe and effective. Unlike in Europe, which regulates sunscreens like beauty products, and where 27 active sunscreen ingredients are approved by the government, in the United States, the FDA currently only allows the use of 16 active ingredients. But 12 of them, including oxybenzone and octinoxate, were recently determined by the FDA to need further testing before being seen as safe.
Americans are becoming more concerned with using nontoxic products in their households — as noted in a story published in August 2018 in Progressive Grocer — so it’s not surprising that there’s a relative increase in the search for so-called clean sunscreens. After all, it’s something you apply directly to your body’s largest organ. But there’s so much misinformation on digital media that, according to a study published in May 2019 in the journal Health Communication, some people are clicking on links about how to make your own homemade sunblock — with dangerous results.
To sort through what the report found and quickly cut to the bottom line, we narrowed your sunscreen shopping checklist down to these six easy steps:
1. Learn the Pros and Cons of Mineral and Chemical Sunscreens
When choosing the best steps to take to protect yourself from UV rays there are so many things to keep in mind it can be overwhelming. Some clean beauty proponents will tell you the answer is simple: Choose a mineral over chemical. But not everyone agrees.
What’s the difference? “Mineral sunscreens contain zinc oxide alone or in combination with titanium dioxide,” Dr. Zeichner says. “They form a protective layer over the surface of the Skin and protect the skin by reflecting away UV light. They tend to be more chalky and leave the skin with a white tinge. Chemical sunscreens contain compounds that absorb UV light and prevent it from penetrating into the skin. They absorb fully into the skin, but may cause irritation in people with sensitive skin.”
The EWG’s stand on how sunscreens should be formulated is firm. “We recommend opting for a mineral-based sunscreen,” says Carla Burns, a research analyst for EWG based in Washington, DC, who managed the update to the 2019 Sunscreens Guide. She suggests choosing products made with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide as the active ingredients, because these products generally offer good sun protection and have less active ingredient health concerns.
As with healthy eating and clean beauty, it’s become popular in some circles to talk about using a “clean” sunscreen. The problem is there is no standard definition for what that term means. “Some people define clean sunscreen as not containing chemical-blocker ingredients,” says Zeichner. “Others define it as containing only organic, sustainably sourced ingredients. The EWG tends to recommend mineral-based sunscreen. Despite their recommendations, most dermatologists continue to recommend chemical sunscreens in combination as well. The currently available sunscreens in the United States are safe and active, and the benefit in protecting the skin from harmful UV rays outweighs any perceived risk to our health.”
Holly Thaggard, the San Antonio, Texas-based founder and CEO of Supergoop, the first high-end skincare brand to make SPF its focus, says both mineral and chemical sunscreens can be right for you depending on your skin type. “Chemical sunscreens absorb UV light, so your skin doesn’t, and they allow for weightless, sometimes-clear formulas. These are great for daily wear, multiple skin tones, the beach, and working out. Mineral sunscreens are made up of tiny white, UV-protecting particles — zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, or both — and are more gentle, perfect for anyone with sensitive or acne-prone skin.”
Another issue is that if people feel a sunscreen doesn’t look good on their face, they might not wear it every day. “The knock on mineral sunscreens as you know is that they are not cosmetically elegant, they leave a film, and that’s not great, especially on darker skin,” says Sapna Westley, MD, a dermatologist in New York City. “I have a lot of patients who are very nervous about anything chemical and just use a mineral, zinc-titanium block and they do perfectly fine.”
Thaggard agrees that mineral sunscreens are not as wearable, and must be formulated carefully to ensure that they are stable and effective, but that both options are viable. “At Supergoop, we believe that there’s a time and place for both sunscreens: clean chemical, aka no oxybenzone and soon-to-be no octinoxate, and 100 percent mineral, containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide or both that still blend beautifully.”
2. Keep the Vitamin D Factor in Mind
You must have been hearing about the importance of vitamin D since you were a kid. It’s no secret that vitamin D is critical to overall wellness, whether it’s for bone health, immune function, or managing depression, per the National Institutes of Health. And according to the Vitamin D Council, the most natural way to get it exposing your skin directly to UVB rays. “Internal medicine doctors will tell their patients, ‘go sit in the sun for 10 minutes a day to get your vitamin D,’” says Westley. “And we, dermatologists say, ‘No! Don’t do that without sun protection because you can get skin cancer,’ so that can get a bit controversial.” The compromise? “Because it’s so easy and inexpensive, I tell patients to supplement with vitamin D instead.” Westley, who recommends her patients get their D levels checked every year, says she prefers D3 for its higher bioavailability. You can also eat foods enriched and fortified with vitamin D, including egg yolks, fatty fish such as mackerel and salmon, some cheeses, and beef liver, per the NIH.
3. Know the Difference Between Oxybenzone and Avobenzone
“The prolific use of oxybenzone remains a concern because it has been linked to skin sensitization and hormone disruption,” Burns says. “Yet, we found oxybenzone in two-thirds of the nonmineral products we assessed.”
While a study published in May 2019 in JAMA has raised concern about how quickly some SPF products are absorbed into the skin, Zeichner says these studies were based on tests in which people covered 75 percent of their body with sunscreen every two hours. “It’s unclear whether there is reason for concern about absorption based on the way most people use sunscreen in the real world,” he says. “Based on what we know today, the benefit of wearing sunscreen in protecting the skin against skin cancer and premature aging outweighs the potential risks. If anyone is concerned with the use of chemical blocker sunscreens, mineral options that contain zinc oxide alone or in combination with titanium dioxide are a great option.”
Thaggard adds: “Oxybenzone is a frequently used, inexpensive active ingredient found in some sunscreens. While it helps achieve high SPF ratings, it is also widely known as being one of the most irritating raw ingredients to work with, as opposed to the alternative, much more skin-compatible, and noncontroversial avobenzone, which is essential for getting a broad-spectrum clean chemical sunscreen. Oxybenzone has been on our ‘no list’ since day one, but we believe that clean chemical options are critical to mass consumer adoption of SPF and the eradication of the skin cancer epidemic.”
4. Why Broad Spectrum Matters When Picking a Sunblock
Broad-spectrum sunscreen protects against both UVA — which causes wrinkles — and UVB rays — which causes sunburn and skin cancer, according to the FDA. “When it comes to sun protection, most people tend to think only about sunburns,” says Thaggard. “But the truth is, they’re forgetting an entirely different type of damage. UVA rays enter the skin’s surface even deeper, and they can contribute to skin cancer and also cause signs of aging. It’s important to remember that UVA rays are present throughout the year at about the same intensity, even when it’s cloudy or through windows.”
5. Check for Your Sunscreen’s Water Resistance
If you’re going to the beach or pool in the summer, wearing a water-resistant sunscreen is a no-brainer. But it’s a pretty smart option for daily use as well, explains Dr. Westley. “Water-resistant sunscreens are good because the rule of thumb is that we tell people to reapply every two hours. And a lot of people don’t realize that they’re sweating off their sunscreen throughout the day, especially when it’s humid out, so water resistant sunscreens give people that extra protection even if they’re not in actual water.” Water-resistant sunscreens are labeled as such.
Since 2011, the FDA has banned manufacturers from claiming that any sunscreen is “waterproof” or “sweatproof.” Labels can say “water resistant” but only if the sunscreen has been proven to remain effective in water for either 40 or 80 minutes. “According to the FDA rules, sunscreen labels that claim to be water resistant must indicate how long you can wear the product while swimming or sweating before you need to reapply,” says Westley. “I recommend water resistance for up to 80 minutes just to give you that added coverage.”
6. Read the Label Before Choosing Your Sunscreen
Sorting through a list of ingredients that are hard enough to pronounce, much less understand, can be downright overwhelming. So what are the key things to keep in mind? “Look for sunscreen that’s labeled as broad-spectrum and has at least an SPF of 30,” says Joshua Zeichner, MD, a dermatologist based in New York City. “This means it protects against both UVB and UVA rays.”
One caveat about SPF levels: While doctors recommend at least 30, according to the EWG, products with claims of high SPF values are on the rise and misleading. One problem is that the SPF value on product labels only pertains to UVB protection. So a sunscreen with an over-the-top SPF may not adequately shield skin from the harmful ultraviolet A rays that cause skin aging and possibly melanoma, the deadliest type of skin cancer.
According to the FDA, high SPF products can also mislead people into thinking they are completely protected from sunburn and long-term skin damage. This false sense of security sometimes causes people to think it’s okay to spend more time in direct sunlight, so they end up getting more ultraviolet rays, not less.
Conclusion on Choosing a Good-Quality Sunscreen
“UV light is a major cause of skin cancer, including the deadly form melanoma,” says Zeichner. “Proper use of sunscreen will help lower the influence of cancers in the future. With so many different sunscreens on the market, there is a formulation for every personal preference. Ultimately, the best sunscreen is the one you actually use.”
The EWG found more than 250 sunscreens that meet their standards, so there are plenty of safe and effective sunscreen out there. Shoppers on the go can download EWG’s free Healthy Living app to get ratings and safety information on sunscreens and other personal care products.
The most vital thing to remember about sunscreen is that sunscreen by itself isn’t enough. “Wear clothing, sunglasses, and hats to minimize sun exposure,” says Burns. “Avoid peak midday sun, and stay in the shade or make your own shade.”
Westley tells her patients they can enjoy the outdoors but to be “sun smart,” specifically between the hours of 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. when the sun is raging, according to the American Cancer Society. “Wear a wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses, and if possible, wear clothing with the tag “UPF” on the label — to give you an optimum level of protection in the clothing itself.” (Many brands, like Patagonia and Athleta, offer sun-protective clothing.) And most important, make wearing a sunscreen a daily habit, like brushing your teeth. Adds Westley: “We know that the risk of skin cancer, which I see every week now in younger and younger people, outweighs the risks of any ingredients that we know of at this point.”
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