Historical & Hip: Mai Tai Tomás Travels To México City
Standing in front of the hotel at 9 am, Stephen, Tracy and I waited for a van. That’s because, before heading to Mexico City, I had booked a Tour to Teotihuacan, the site of old pyramids (outside of the Luxor, I can’t think of any relative new ones), with the two most famous being the Pyramid of the Moon and The Pyramid of the Sun. Speaking of sun, in the directions emailed to me it said to be sure to bring a sun hat and sunscreen (foreshadowing alert).
We hopped in the van, which included four others on the tour, our driver (Carlos) and our guide (Rafael). Our first stop was less than 15 minutes from our hotel. Tlatelolco is an archaeological site dating back to the 1300s with a violent history. For a while it was an Aztec ceremonial center, until it was conquered by a dissident indigenous group (Tlatelolco) in the 1470s. They lived in relative peace until the Tlatelolco declared their independence, and the Aztecs invaded and regained total control. That is, until Cortés and the Spaniards came and much bloodshed ensued. There are temples and pyramids that have been excavated here In the background, the Church of Santiago Tlateloloco, which was constructed on the site of previous Aztec pyramids to “make sure to destroy the previous culture and reinforce the Spanish way of life” stands. Cortés forced Aztec survivors to help build the church.
Back in the van it was on to the pyramids, or so we thought. On the nearly hour-long journey, Rafael plied us with non-stop tidbits of Mexico City history along the way. We passed some colorful towns and aerial tramways that transported citizens. I was going to see if Carlos might stop so we could take a photo, but Tracy said the “check engine light” had been on since we started, so I just wanted to get to our destination.
The pyramids appeared in close proximity when the van made a turn into a parking area at Taller de Artesanias Finas el Sol, which, to my knowledge, was not the name of a pyramid.
I had forgotten that often times on tours they stop at a place where they hope you will spend your money, and this fine crafts workshop was the place. The owner gave about a ten-minute talk on the shop, which would we find out is also a souvenir mecca.
I had nearly tuned him out until he said the magic words, tequila and mezcal. The shop held a dizzying amount of handicrafts that I had to admit were interesting (no photos allowed inside). But first, Stephen and I took part in a tasting of mezcal and tequila liqueurs. “Well, it’s 11 a.m. somewhere,” I said. You’re not allowed to take photos inside the shop.
Meanwhile Tracy was nowhere to be found, so there was only one conclusion … we would not have as many pesos as we had before the tour. Sure enough, she exited with a colorful tablecloth that only cost US$50 (shown here at a recent barbecue we had at the house).
Not to be outdone, Stephen also bought a couple of souvenirs for his home.
Ready to roll, the entire tour group boarded the bus … except for one. On virtually every tour I’ve ever been on, there is always one person who I would like to vote off the island. After about five minutes the guy’s friend went searching for him. Five minutes later he returned without his friend. “He’s still shopping.” Now, a more drastic punishment was in order. The guy finally exited the store with something and told his friend he was proud because he was finally able to haggle the price down on whatever he bought. Tracy gave me a warning look of, “If you say anything to him, I’ll rip your throat out.” Silence was golden.
It was a short hop to our destination. Teotihuacan (“the place where the gods were created”) dates back to the first century.
Over the next six centuries monuments were constructed, the two most famous being the aforementioned pyramids. Under the shade of a tree Rafael gave us the history of this magnificent site.
We set off on our own to explore, and it was about 15 minutes later I remembered I did not bring sunscreen nor a sun hat. Following directions has never been my strong suit. I knew that because my head suddenly started to feel like someone was breathing fire over it. I hoped I would not join this soul.
Carrying on, we walked over to the Pyramid of the Moon, which is the second largest of the pyramids. Construction took place between the second and the fifth centuries. It is estimated that the population of Teotihuacan ranged between 150,000 to 250,000 people at its height.
We took in the surrounding areas with Rafael sometimes gathering the group to impart more historical knowledge. He really did an excellent job throughout the day.
Rafael told us to not to climb the pyramid. He needn’t have worried.
We took in the pyramids from all angles.
My head was now on fire as I stared down the appropriately named Avenida de los Muertos, the primary path between the pyramids. It’s called the Avenue of the Dead because it is said the path was paved with tombs. Fortunately, the Avenue of the Dead now has live vendors, and for a small price I was able to buy a touristy Teotihuacan cap at a paltry price, which saved my head, but not my skin. Tracy said I looked like a red lobster, and not the restaurant.
Heading down what I now called The Avenue of the Hat, we ducked into see some murals, and also listen to more history of the area. It was very interesting, but I think I’ve hit the traveling stage of life where I have joined joined Tracy in the club of “I don’t think we have to visit a lot of ruins anymore.”
Near the end of our Teotihuacan tour, we ventured toward the Pyramid of the Sun. The Pyramid of the Sun was named by the Aztecs after the city had been abandoned. It was built in the third century and is more than 700 feet tall. As of April of 2023, you were not allowed to climb on either of the two large pyramids. I thought I was safe.
In front of the Pyramid of the Sun is a structure that you climb, which Rafael said afforded a great viewing opportunity of the pyramid. I was about ready to tell Tracy and Stephen to capture some photos, when Rafael gave us the bad news that we would all need to descend on the other side in order to walk back to the van. Visions of the Lisbon emergency room danced in my head (see details here).
I carefully climbed up the very narrow, uneven and steep steps with nary a hand rail in sight, grabbing ahold of Tracy’s shoulder as to not plummet to my certain death, although it might have been a good story to have it all end on the Avenue of the Dead. At the top we all took a couple of photos, and now came the “going down” part, which I hoped would not have a literal aspect to it.
Holding onto Tracy’s shoulder, I took one uneasy step down and realized this was not going to happen. Short of ordering in a helicopter to airlift me out, I needed to formulate a descending plan. There really was only one option, one that would forever live in ignominy. Sitting down on my butt, I carefully slid down step after step (about 30 of them I believe) looking like a human Slinky (although a Slinky is more graceful), hoping there were no camera phone videos rolling. I navigated the steps without incident except for a rather dirty seat of my pants.At least we did get the good view that was promised. I wish I had taken a photo of the steps, but at this moment I was just happy I made it down.
My dignity now in shambles, I arose, dusted my rear end and walked back toward the van pretending that didn’t just happen. Stephen was bemoaning the fact he didn’t take a video, which would have made for some good dinner fodder.
Gazing up at the Pyramid of the Sun, I asked Rafael who the person was on the steps of the pyramid. “He’s guarding against anyone trying to climb up.” I had hoped he hadn’t seen my recent climbing performance.
It was time to say adios to the pyramids.
Next stop on the tour was lunch. Although the restaurant had “tourist” written on it, the food was very good.
Plus, we got to see a dance …
… and a fake Aztec Calendar.
Our final stop on the tour was the Nacional Basílica de Santa María de Guadalupe, one of the most visited religious sites in the world, and the second most visited shrine to the Virgin Mary.
