Falling For Portugal: A Mai Tai Tom “Trip” Report
Chapter Seven: Sintra … Colorful City of Palaces
Day Seven: Beautiful Residence, The Three-Year Deposit, High Chair, Isabel Takes Over, The Oldest Palace In Portugal, Unique Tiles, Death At The Quinta, Plan B, Some Great Advice, Wine And Pringles, Where’s Perry? and Will Mary Ever Be Served?
One last rooftop breakfast at Altis Avenida, and it was time for an Uber (we had set it up with our driver from the previous day) to Sintra. Lisbon had run the gamut of spectrums offering a a little bit of everything; from spectacular historical sights, gorgeous tiled buildings, colorful street art and out-of-this-world cuisine to grittiness, poverty, abandoned buildings and not-so pleasant graffiti. One thing was for sure, Lisbon was never boring. Negotiating the numerous stairs and uphill streets, Lisbon was like our own personal stair-stepper.
A big advantage of traveling with another couple (besides instant medical attention when you take a tumble), was that we could share the Uber cost (between €35 – €40) to Sintra, plus our driver provided a non-stop narrative and overview of the town along the way. There’s a good reason why people caution you not to drive in Sintra. It is a maze of one-way streets with plenty of traffic and places where vehicles are prohibited from entering. Our driver was a little perplexed about where our lodging was located, so he pulled over to look closely at his GPS and figure it out. It didn’t take long. Looking up we noticed he had parked virtually in front of the Chalet Saudade – Vintage Guest House, where we would stay the next three nights.
It was almost like I personally knew our host Filipa at Chalet Saudade upon arrival. I had made the deposit to stay here in 2019, and each year we had to cancel thanks to Covid. In a nice gesture, each year they rolled the deposit over, and finally we made it. We were greeted by the always personable, patient and funny Filipa. Reviews are spot on, this is a great place to stay (more later). It had a beautiful sitting area and cozy back room to enjoy some vinho or port later in the day and evening.
Since it was just barely 10 a.m. the rooms were not ready, but that was no problem. Filipa told us to leave our bags in reception and go about our day. That was good, because we had someone we needed to meet.
Before leaving for Portugal, thanks to the always great advice from Maribel, I had booked a tour of Palácio Nacional de Sintra and Quinta da Regaleira with Isabel of Lisbon Tour Guides. We were to meet at 11 in front of the National Palace. Donning my new hat, we embarked on a ten-minute stroll through town. “What do you think, Sinatra in Sintra?” I asked. Mary responded, “To be perfectly Frank, not so much.” Well, I guess That’s Life, although I still like to do things My Way.
We passed the impressive Câmara Municipal de Sintra (Sintra Town Hall), a castle-like structure constructed in 1909 that looks like it could be right out of a medieval fable.
As we walked through Sintra’s historic center, what looked like cones on the roof of the palace loomed over the buildings. Indeed it was our destination the Palácio Nacional de Sintra.
For some odd reason our group always seems to be enamored with street art with oversized chairs. Today would be no exception.
Of course, some people take a little longer to get in them. I blamed the extra weight of the hat.
We reached the palace ten minutes early, and Isabel easily recognized our motley crew and we recognized the red fan she said she would be carrying. It was too late for her to turn back now. The palace is believed to have been started during Moorish rule. Construction on the Palácio began in earnest in the early 15th century by by King João I (who was also Henry the Navigator’s father) and has been updated numerous times in the intervening years, thus making the Palácio Nacional de Sintra the oldest surviving palace in Portugal.
One of the reasons the palace was built in Sintra was so the royals, especially Queen Philippa, could escape the heat of Lisbon’s summers (and the fall, which we could attest). Other wealthy ‘Lisboetas’ took their lead, and many colorful mansions and homes were built in Sintra, whose hillside location provides a cooler climate, although still not that far from Lisbon.
Also known as Palácio da Vila, we started our tour with Isabel leading the way. As we walked up the 16th-century stairs to the Sala de Entrada, Isabel gave us an overview of the palace, just part of the wealth of information and history she would impart on our tour. I had told Isabel about my stumble a few days previously, and she often told us to “watch our step.” As it would turn out, those were ominously prescient words.
Interestingly, the initial room we entered is known as Sala dos Cisnes (Hall of Swans), the first time a swan song was actually at the beginning. The room took on many functions; musical concerts, banquets, receptions and the occasional funeral. Those hutches in the corners date all the way back to the 1600s.
It’s not difficult to figure out why. Paintings of crowned swans can be spotted on the ceiling. King João I had five sons and one daughter who was betrothed to the French Dauphin. The French king sent a gift of swans to Portugal in celebration of the marriage, and there are 27 painted on the ceiling, which was equal to the bride’s, Infanta Isabel, age.
We stepped out to the Central Courtyard, an area that allowed King João I and Queen Philippa to access different rooms without having to enter others.
Don’t tattle, but we next entered The Magpie Room. The ceiling here puts The Swan Hall to shame. There are 136 magpies on the ceiling each with the sentence “no harm meant.”
The story goes that King João was caught in the act kissing one of the ladies in waiting. He tried to explain, “Por Bem” (“Without bad meaning”). Well, that one would never pass with Tracy, but I guess Philippa was more forgiving. A lot of gossip and tattling occurred after that event, so 136 magpies were painted on the ceiling, one for every woman at his court.
The fireplace has a story, too. It was given to King Manuel by Pope Leo in 1515, and was placed at the Palace of Almerim (a palace that no longer exists). It blazed to life in 1898 when it was installed in the Magpie Room, which was utilized primarily as banquet Room.
We entered the third room of the palace, the Câmara do Ouro (Gold Chamber), a room where the king would greet people of “higher social service.”
Then, if the guests were boring he could immediately lay down and take a nap after they departed. Later in the 16th century, King Sebastião slept here with his servants and close family members sleeping on the floor. A royal slumber party.
The Garda-Roupa (Wardrobe Room) is where the royals kept their clothes, jewelry and other expensive items. I think some of the porcelain pieces are from the Ming Dynasty but I sometimes confuse my Ming bling.
It’s also called The Mermaid’s Room because mermaids are floating in air on the ceiling (this photo captured by someone on the internet with better light … and camera).
Plus I think every dressing room should contain a pig’s snout decorative piece.
On display in the Camarin of the National Palace is historic globe. It’s also unique, as it “represents the celestial sphere, with constellations and signs of the zodiac.” Made by German-born Christopher Schissler The Elder in 1575 it “reflects everything that was known about the universe at the time,” and is the only known 16th-century globe of its kind, not to mention being the oldest globe in Portugal.
Walking into the Galley Room, I felt I was listing a little bit. This was put in by João III in the 16th century to interlink the main chambers with the northwest wing of the Palace.
In the room are painted galleys flying the flag of Portugal and the Ottoman Empire. Speaking of which I could have used an ottoman to put my feet on my about now.
