As the weather shifts from hot and humid to brisk, fashion trends are following suit, making a transformation of their own. In the past three months, searches for “dark Academia outfits” have risen 104% on Pinterest. The hashtag #darkacademia even has over 5 billion views on TikTok.

But even more surprising is the character women are drawing dressing inspiration from. Gilmore Girls' own Rory Gilmore is a style icon, with searches for ‘Rory Gilmore wardrobe' jumping 455% in the past six months. 

But what is dark academia? We turned to the fashion experts at Boohoo to understand the latest resurgence of this classic trend. 

Understanding The ‘Dark Academia’ Aesthetic 

Dark Academia is an aesthetic, or way of life, that puts a heavy emphasis on studying and learning — especially the arts, language, literature, and anything with ties to the ‘Classics.' There's a romanticization of campus life, Ivy Leagues, ambition, and anything odd or obscure.

Scrolling through the #darkacademia tag on Tumblr, you'll find a lot of quotes from Donna Tartt's The Secret History and photos of museums, skeletons, and dimly-lit libraries. You'll also see a lot of Oscar Wilde, Sylvia Plath, and Franz Kafka.  

When it comes to dressing the part, dark academia draws inspiration from films like Dead Poets Society (1989) and Maurice (1987). Not only is the color palette dark but there's an emphasis on androgyny that makes dark academia an easy trend to follow no matter your gender identity. 

Dark Academia's Pallette is Full Of Dark Colors 

If you couldn't already guess, dark academia's color palette ranges from maroons and burgundies to forest greens, navy blues, browns, neutral or beige, and, of course, black. 

For fall 2023, the fashion experts at Boohoo predict brown will be the most popular dark academia outfit color. They found that in the last three months, ‘brown outfit' searches have risen 92% on Pinterest. 

Break Out Your Plaid  

Dark academia isn't super flashy or exciting, but that doesn't mean you can't embrace different patterns. Plaid, or tartan, patterns, for instance, are featured heavily across the dark academia aesthetic — a harken back to the campus styles of the 1960s and 1970s. In fact, searches for “plaid skirts” have risen 138% in just the last three months. 

To avoid feeling too much like you're fresh out of Britney Spears's “Baby Hit Me One More Time” music video, try pairing your plaid skirt with a t-shirt and cardigan in a complementary color. 

Faux Leather And Suede Boots Are Must-Haves 

In terms of footwear, boots are your best bet for copying the dark academia look. Particularly in colder, rainier months, you'll see a lot of faux leather and suede knee-high or ankle boots worn with either a skirt and tights or with jeans. 

Sleeveless Sweater Vests Are Back

Another great wardrobe staple to have on hand is a sleeveless sweater vest. During warmer months, you don't have to layer them, but once the air gets cooler, a sweater vest over a button-down shirt is a classic dark academia outfit. 

After being spotted on Kendall Jenner, Matilda Djerf, and Bella Hadid, searches on Pinterest for “sleeveless sweater vest outfit” have risen 426% in the last three months. Searches for “sweater vest” alone rose 117%.

Layer With Waistcoats 

If you picked up the retro-inspired waistcoat trend over the summer, you're in luck; fashion experts say this trend isn't going anywhere anytime soon. Just in the past year, ‘waistcoat outfit' searches on Pinterest have risen 614%. 

Not only are waistcoats a great layering piece, but like sweater vests, they're also versatile, making them a great dark academia wardrobe investment. 

You can wear waistcoats by themselves or over turtlenecks with a tweed jacket or wool coat. Add dainty pieces of jewelry to add feminine touches to an androgynous outfit. 

‘Dark Academia’ Style Inspirations 

Knowing where to start when it comes to building your dark academia wardrobe can be daunting. Thankfully, pop culture is full of icons who can serve as outfit inspiration. 

Rory Gilmore (Gilmore Girls)

If there's a poster child for dark academia, it's Rory Gilmore of Gilmore Girls. Between her bookworm status and New England prep school-influenced wardrobe, it's easy to see why so many are turning to Rory Gilmore for dark academia outfit inspiration. 

In the last six months alone, ‘Rory Gilmore aesthetic' searches on Pinterest have risen 402%, while #GilmoreGirlsOutfits have over 33 million views on TikTok. Just in the last three months, Pinterest has also seen a 910% increase in searches for ‘Rory Gilmore sweater.' 

Prep School Style Is In 

Besides thick cable-knit sweaters, #Rory GilmoreOutfitInspiration comes from how she dresses for school. Besides her school uniform, Rory is often wearing A-line skirts with tights, choosing to layer against crisp New England autumns. 

Hermione Granger (Harry Potter Series) 

Working too late by candlelight is peak dark academia, and if there's anyone who embodies that aesthetic, it's Harry Potter‘s Hermione Granger. The blend of 1980s knitwear and school uniforms gives a casual twist to Rory Gilmore's bookish style. 

Simple Is Still Chic

If you're not ready to dive into the world of waistcoats and blazers, copying Hermione Granger's simple-but-stylish looks are a great way to embody the dark academia aesthic. Match loafers with skinny jeans and a patterned sweater to get her look. You can even add a long cardigan to copy to school robe vibe. 

Jo March (Little Women) 

Thanks to the 2019 Greta Gerwin adaptation of Little Women, we all got a great reminder of how cool Jo March was. Jo keeps things simple, like Hermione Granger, but also has a look that's both vintage and timeless — key elements of the dark academia aesthetic. 

Functionality Is Key

Besides 19th-century style dresses, the key to dressing like Jo March is functionality. Her wardrobe is made up of dark earth tones and pieces that, like Rory, are meant to protect her against bitter coastal New England winds while also being able to handle an ink stain or three. 

Beth Harmon (Queen’s Gambit) 

Beth Harmon of Netflix's Queen's Gambit is more than just queen of the chess board. Portrayed by Anya Taylor-Joy, this style icon dominates more than the chess board with her chic shift dresses and Peter Pan collar blouses.

Her color palette isn't too different from a chessboard, with a lot of contrasting black and white as well as other dark earth tones. 

Small Feminine Details

To be like Beth, add small feminine details to even your most casual outfits. Pair pointed-toed flats with fitted jeans and a sweater. Layer with a schoolboy blazer, and add a necklace for a bit of flair.