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5 Best Issey Miyake Colognes (2023) Full Review – Underrated?

Issey Miyake.

One of the best and most underrated brands.

In this review, I will describe the five best Issey Miyake colognes for men. I’ll detail their smell, performance, and anything else you need to know.

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#5 – L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme

The opening is all about equal parts citrus and spice. It is sharp and in your face. These first five minutes are the most decisive part of the fragrance. Within a few minutes, the fragrance gets drier with a woody, vetiver, and tobacco depth.

I thought with these darker notes; it would darken. However, the citrus begins radiating off the skin.

Citruses are dominant in the mid. A more prominent duo of nutmeg and tarragon show themselves above all other spices. There is a new musky addition. The scent retains the same woody depth. The overarching emphasis is fresh and aromatic.

Spices fade in the dry down. A woody duo of cedar and sandalwood fill its void, bringing hints of lotus floral notes. Yet, it never becomes powdery, only amplifying the freshness and cleanliness of the fragrance. The rest of the wear is wood dominant with fresh citrus, musk, and florals in the background.

This lasts six to eight hours on the skin with moderate projection. The first half or more of the wear pushes out an arm’s length; it recedes but never becomes a skin scent. This is exclusively spring and summer wear but for all occasions.

#4 – L’Eau Bleue d’Issey Pour Homme

Not a blue fragrance despite the bottle. The opening is exceptionally green and aromatic. I smell herbal rosemary, spicy and zingy ginger, and fresh orange. Additional greens and citruses are in the background, but I can’t pick out the specific note.

Though the opening is intense, it is so well blended that it has calming nature. The overarching emphasis for the first hour is fresh, spicy, and aromatic. Within a few minutes, the orange zest fades, leaving room for an earthy but subtle patchouli note.

The mid changes directions. It still retains the bright opening notes but heads in a cleaner direction. Think soapy without the soapy or powdery smell. This is from white florals and roses coming to the forefront.

All top notes fade within the first hour. The dry down is left with woody vetiver, patchouli, and sandalwood trio. This is what you’ll smell for the rest of the wear.

This lasts eight to nine hours, with great projection for the first five hours. It pushes out an arm’s length. After this period, it recedes but maintains a two-foot ambiance for the rest of the wear. This is all-season and occasion wear. You’ll have to spray heavier in the winter.

#3 – Nuit d’Issey Parfum

Nuit d’Issey Parfum starts with citric grapefruit, hefty pink pepper notes, and patchouli nuances sneaking up from the base. This is a very authentic patchouli note, balanced in its woody, earthy, and musky faucets.

The spiciness continues into the mid and a large focus of the wear. The grapefruit has receded, and patchouli depth remains in the background. After an hour, a strong and sweet vanilla note comes through while patchouli and its earthiness intensify.

The sweetness of vanilla is never overwhelming, while the earthiness is never too “dirty.” This vanilla and patchouli duo is what you’ll get for the rest of the wear. The entire wear, I surprisingly, didn’t pick up on much leather. Fleeting hints here and there in the dry down.

This lasts nine hours with moderate projection. In the first four hours, it pushes out an arm’s length. After this period, it recedes but maintains a two-foot ambiance for the rest of the wear. It is a very wearable scent. This is exclusively fall and winter wear but for all occasions.

#2 – L’Eau d’Issey Noir Argent

The opening starts with an intense citric lemon and dry, sour myrrh. Within a few minutes, a leathery and patchouli depth soothes the myrrh. It gives the fragrance an almost flat cola aroma. As the wear continues into the mid, slightly smoky incense is added.

Noir Argent skips the mid. You could argue the smoky incense was the “mid,” but it was a bad one. Anyway, the dry down is defined by fruity leather with earthy patchouli. Leather is still soft and suede-like, mixing well with the cola myrrh. This is what you’ll get for the rest of the wear.

This lasts seven to eight hours on the skin with moderate to light projection. It pushes out an arm’s length for the first three hours. After this period, it recedes but never becomes a skin scent. This is fall, winter, and early spring wear. I recommend taking it lighter on the sprays in the heat. As for occasions, this is best for special occasions.

#1 – Issey Miyake Noir Ambre

The opening wastes no time. It jumps right into a combination of leather and spices that rests on a woody backbone. In this case, the spice is cinnamon and adds darker and sweeter accords to the fragrance. It is spiciest in the opening but is always in balance. 

After 15 minutes, the scent starts to change. The amber that comes in is to die for. It’s warm, pairing perfectly with the top notes and pulling everything together. Along with it is sparkling vanilla that fuses with the cinnamon. All of this happens while still resting on a woody backbone.

If you read other reviews, some will say leather has an animalic tinge at this point. However, I don’t pick it up; if it is there, it is never off-putting. 

It is all about the smooth amber and vanilla into the dry down. They are slightly sweet and alluring but, interestingly enough, stay clean and fresh. Dense fragrances like this tend to get “heavy” on your skin, but this never does. Leather is still present. It fades into the background with the woody backbone. 

The performance is impressive; it lasts an entire day on clothes. I have listed this as a special occasion fragrance, but honestly, you can wear this for all occasions. The only reason it’s not listed as “all” is because it’s crazy good and unique.

Thus, it might be best reserved for times you want to impress.

One other thing I will mention. As far as I know, this scent is not discontinued. It isn’t easy to get. 

Final Words

Issey Miyake is a somewhat unpopular brand that deserves more attention. However, this makes these fragrances a steal. Many times Issey Miyake fragrances can be found at rack stores, on Amazon, and at discounters for the $40 – $50 range.

I love having Issey Miyake fragrances in my collection. They are like Cremo colognes; if you’re shopping and stumble across one, it’s definitely worth a purchase.

After you try an Issey Miyake fragrance, I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments.

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