Despite its huge environmental and social impact, there remains a distinct lack of laws and regulations in the fashion industry. We take a look at why we need governments to step up and take action.
The sustainable Fashion movement is growing. An increasing number of consumers are concerned about the social and environmental impact of the products they buy.
Companies are responding to this by increasing their range of eco-friendly clothing and working to ensure that ethical manufacturing practices are in place across their supply chains.
Ethical brands can use sustainability certifications such as GOTS certified cotton and Fairtrade to qualify their sustainable commitments.
But is this reliance on consumer pressure and voluntary measures taken by brands enough? Or do we need tougher new laws and regulations in place to hold the fashion and apparel Industry accountable?
We take a look at why governments have an important role to play and explore some of the new legislation being proposed to move the entire industry into a sustainable future.
What Are the Problems in the Fashion Industry?
Although the sustainable fashion movement is gaining traction, the environmental and social impact of fast fashion remains a huge issue.
The Fashion Industry is responsible for 8-10 % of worldwide carbon emissions. That’s more than the combined total from international flights and shipping.
It’s the second-largest consumer of the world’s water supply and is responsible for vast amounts of microfibre pollution in our oceans.
It’s also estimated that in the UK alone, 140 million pounds worth of clothing is sent to landfill each year.
And the problems aren’t confined to fashion’s disastrous environmental footprint. Workers around the globe continue to suffer from unlivable wages, child labour, modern slavery and unsafe working conditions.
For more information on the effect fast fashion has on people and the planet, have a read of our article Why Is Sustainable and Ethical Fashion Important and our articles on the clothing waste crisis and microplastics.
Is the Clothing Industry Regulated?
Are there laws on how fashion companies operate? Despite the grim statistics, the international clothing sector remains largely unregulated with regard to environmental and social justice issues.
Thankfully, there are signs this is changing as environmental organisations and consumers demand that fashion, especially fast fashion, be held accountable.
Generation Z is a powerful young consumer group that makes up 32% of the world population. Combined with millennials they have been calling for greater transparency, environmental responsibility and social accountability from brands and governments. For more about this future generation see Does Gen Z care about sustainability? Stats & facts in 2022.
Enough is enough, we need tougher laws and regulations in the fashion industry to ensure a sustainable future.
Why Should Governments Act?
The Urgency Of Climate Change
In 2015, as part of the historic Paris Climate Agreement, almost all of the world’s countries pledged to limit global warming to 1.5 degrees by the end of the century.
However, in the latest report published by the UN’s Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC), scientists warn that we are in danger of breaching the 1.5 degree limit as soon as the 2030s. The report calls upon governments and businesses to take more stringent action as a matter of urgency.
Considering its seismic climate footprint, the environmental standards of the fashion industry must be looked at.
What Happened At COP26 and cop27?
Fashion Industry Target Consultation
With the aim of creating a net positive fashion industry, Global Fashion Agenda and UN Environment Programme launched the Fashion Industry Target Consultation at COP27.
This was a consultation with players across all levels of the fashion value chain (including brands, manufacturers, NGOs and other fashion organisations) held from November 2022 to February 2023. Its aim was to identify and merge existing targets and highlight areas where new targets are required to meet this goal.
Targets will be in line with the five principles of the Fashion CEO Agenda:
- Respectful and secure work environments
- Better wage systems
- Resource stewardship
- Smart material choices
- Circular systems
The consultation consisted of an online survey and worldwide workshops. Findings will be presented in a webinar in Q2 2023.
Canopy Commitment: Next generation solutions
At COP27, nonprofit Canopy which campaigns for the protection of the world’s forests and species achieved the signatures of 33 brands to use “next generation solutions” instead of wood pulp for clothing and packaging.
Brands including H&M, Kering, Inditex and Stella McCartney agreed to use lower carbon materials such as agricultural residue and textile waste. Together they signed a commitment to buy 550,000 tonnes of these alternative fibres.
This was particularly important to COP as scientists have warned that at least 50% of the world’s forests must be restored or conserved by 2030 to be in with a chance of hitting the 1.5°C temperature rise target.
However, while some brands are making good progress when it comes to increasing environmental sustainability, for others it is still a troublesome topic. A Quartz report from 2022 stated that H&M had grossly misrepresented information regarding product sustainability. In these instances, products were found to be far more environmentally harmful than the brand had claimed them to be.
Clearly, even though brands make commitments, they aren’t always upheld.
Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action
An update to the Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action was announced at the COP26.
Launched in 2018, and convened by the UN, the charter brings together policymakers, brands and suppliers and provides a framework for dialogue and engagement on climate action.
The renewed commitments form a decarbonization plan aligned with the Paris Agreement ambitions to keep global warming below 1.5 degrees.
The charter also includes a commitment to try and achieve net zero emissions over the next twenty-seven years.
It currently has over 100 signatories including brands such as H&M, Primark, Levi’s, Gap and Adidas. Signatories commit to implementing the principles of the charter and to working collaboratively with their peers and relevant stakeholders to further the climate action agenda in fashion. There are also 43 supporting organisations such as Global Fashion Agenda (GFA).
Progress
In February of 2023, the Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Change event took place in Germany.
At this event the progress of the industry in creating a lighter sustainable impact was assessed. It was recognised that progress had been made in some areas, particularly in areas of reporting and industry collaboration, but it wasn’t all good news.
Overall, it was stated that positive change wasn’t happening quickly enough or on a wide enough scale to be making a significant impact.
It became clear at the meeting that the climate change agenda needs to be expanded and accelerated.
However, it is encouraging to see wider and more open advocacy for the issues of climate change.
The Use of Sustainable Materials
There was also a request at COP26 for government-backed incentives to use sustainable materials, submitted by global non-profit Textile Exchange.
These “environmentally preferred materials” are defined by the Textile Exchange as those from certified, verified sources that can be traced from raw material to finished product.
The request is based on the idea that we need both laws to prevent damaging behaviour by the fashion industry, and incentives for using sustainable materials, in order to help alleviate the financial burden of sourcing more responsibly. The call was supported by 50 of the world’s largest fashion and textile companies.
Voluntary measures, are voluntary
Protecting Workers – The Bangladesh Accord
The fashion industry remains largely unregulated with respect to the monitoring of working conditions in supply chains.
There are voluntary initiatives such as the Bangladesh Accord, created in 2013 after the devastating collapse of the Rana Plaza, a garment factory building in Bangladesh, that killed 1,132 people.
The original accord established an independent, legally enforceable pact between brands and trade unions in Bangladesh to work toward a safe and healthy garment and textile industry.
The Bangladesh Accord was renewed and renamed the International Accord for Health and Safety in the Textile and Garment Industry in September 2021. The renewed accord continues to safeguard garment workers in Bangladesh, but it will also be expanded to other countries.
In December 2022 the steering committee agreed to start a new program in Pakistan, and they are investigating the feasibility of new programs in India, Morocco and Sri Lanka.
All garment and textile companies are being encouraged to sign the agreement, especially by organisations such as Remake, but there is no legal requirement to do so. As of 25 August 2023, 198 brands had signed the Accord and 71 had signed the Pakistan Accord. Notable exceptions include Ikea, Gap and JD Sports.
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