As the market for online vintage clothing continues to grow, so too does the challenge of ensuring that the items you’re buying are the genuine article. With the explosion of online marketplaces and digital thrift shops, it’s never been easier to find vintage clothing from top brands like Ralph Lauren. However, it’s also never been more difficult to verify the authenticity of these items. This guide will provide you with tips and resources to help you authenticate vintage clothing online, and unpacks how to tell if your Ralph Lauren clothes are real.

Why Authenticating Vintage Clothing Matters

The quest for authenticity in vintage clothing isn’t just about a label; it’s about value, history, and trust. When you delve into the world of vintage, you’re stepping into an arena where the authenticity of a piece can significantly influence its worth. True vintage garments, especially those from well-regarded brands or distinctive eras, are often viewed as collectible items. Their uniqueness and scarcity can command impressive price tags, particularly when they’ve been meticulously maintained over the years.

Beyond price, authentic vintage clothing carries a historical weight that’s hard to replicate. These pieces serve as fashionable time capsules, revealing the trends, societal norms, and craftsmanship of the times they were created. Each authentic vintage item tells a unique story, often providing fascinating insights into our sartorial past.

However, perhaps the most essential aspect of the authentication process lies in building and maintaining consumer trust. As a buyer, it’s essential to know that the vintage gem you’ve uncovered is the real deal. Misrepresentation or deceit in the vintage market not only disappoints the buyer but also undermines the integrity of the whole sector. That’s why, at FLUF, we believe in the importance of authenticating vintage clothing – to ensure that every transaction is fair, every piece gets the recognition it deserves, and every buyer finds genuine satisfaction in their unique vintage find.

General Tips for Authenticating Vintage Clothing

Authenticating vintage clothing requires a keen eye for detail and a basic understanding of the history and characteristics of fashion from different eras. While specific verification methods can differ from brand to brand, there are some universal strategies that can be applied to most vintage items:

• Examine the Labels: Labels are often a treasure trove of information. Brand labels, care labels, and size labels can all provide important clues about an item’s authenticity. Pay attention to the quality of stitching, which should be consistent and durable in authentic pieces. The fonts used on these labels should also match the style used by the brand during the garment’s purported era. Additionally, look for signs of aging that correspond with the item’s age – modern labels on a garment purported to be from the 1960s, for example, would be a clear sign of inauthenticity.
• Assess the Quality of Materials and Craftsmanship: Genuine vintage clothing is typically produced with superior materials and craftsmanship compared to many modern equivalents. Seek out pieces made from sturdy, natural fabrics like wool, cotton, and silk. Synthetic materials like polyester weren’t commonly used until the mid-20th century. The stitching should be even and tight, and buttons, zippers, and other fastenings should be firmly attached and functional. High-quality craftsmanship is a hallmark of many vintage pieces.
• Pay Attention to Detail: Small details can often reveal whether a piece is genuinely vintage or a reproduction. The weight, design, and brand of a zipper pull, the placement and design of a brand logo, the style of a garment’s seams, and the presence of union labels or lot numbers can all provide valuable clues. Be aware of features that would be inconsistent with the item’s purported age – for example, plastic zippers were not commonly used until the 1960s, so their presence on a garment claimed to be from the 1950s would be a red flag.
• Research: If something about an item feels off, or if you’re unsure about its authenticity, don’t hesitate to do some additional research. Look up the brand’s history, compare the item to authenticated pieces from the same era, or consult a vintage fashion expert (like Retro Ralph) or resource. This will not only help you verify the piece in question, but also enhance your overall knowledge and skills in vintage fashion authentication.

By following these guidelines, you can enhance your ability to discern authentic vintage clothing from reproductions or fakes, ensuring your collection remains genuine and valuable.

How to authenticate Ralph Lauren clothes

To understand if Ralph Lauren clothes are authentic, one needs to understand the history of Ralph Lauren, the brand itself and nuances with it. There are many sub-labels within Ralph Lauren, with each having changes throughout the years. Here are is a brief overview:

1. Polo Ralph Lauren, often referred to as Polo, is the flagship brand of the American fashion designer Ralph Lauren. The brand was launched in 1967 and has since become synonymous with preppy, Ivy League style. It marked the beginning of Ralph Lauren’s illustrious career in the fashion industry and remains one of his most popular lines to this day. Over the years, the logo of the Polo Ralph Lauren brand has seen a few changes. The original logo featured the word “Polo” inside a stylised rectangle, with white letters on a dark navy background. This variant can be found on older products, and on modern reproductions of a few off the older lines and can vary by manufacturing location.

The logo was later simplified in the mid 2010s, featuring gold letters on a light navy-blue background. This change added a modern touch while retaining the brand’s classic feel.

A third variant of the Polo logo is exclusive to the brand’s denim products. This version of the logo has a white or light brown background with dark blue letters.

2. The Ralph Lauren brand line, closely mirroring the aesthetic of Polo Ralph Lauren, focuses on providing style-forward designs. The key difference that sets them apart is speculated to be the lower quality, as the Ralph Lauren line is often intended for outlet sale. However, this is anecdotal and not definitively established. The distinguishing element between these lines is visible in their distinct label evolution. The Ralph Lauren brand line has two main label variants—old and new.

The older variant of the Ralph Lauren label is characterised by a classic design featuring “Ralph Lauren” text and a jockey image, both in white colour set against a deep blue background. This logo predominantly appeared on the brand’s pieces throughout the earlier years.

In contrast, the newer Ralph Lauren label shifted to a more streamlined design, displaying “RALPH LAUREN” text and jockey logo both in yellow against the same dark blue background. This updated label signifies a modern, minimalist turn in the brand’s visual representation.

Both Polo and Ralph Lauren lines share a high popularity, which unfortunately leads to a rise in counterfeits. Hence, caution is advised when shopping online. Purchasing from authorised dealers or reliable second-hand shops is recommended, especially for new buyers.

3. Ralph Lauren Purple Label (RLPL): Introduced in 1994, Ralph Lauren Purple Label is the most premium and sophisticated line offered by Ralph Lauren. The line’s products are recognised for their outstanding quality, superior materials, and elegant aesthetics.

The Purple Label consists of two sub-brands:

1. The men’s line was the first to bear the Purple Label name. It offers ready-to-wear and made-to-measure men’s suits and blazers designed in the British style. This line also extends to jackets, coats, shirts, sportswear, and footwear. Its logo is a simple, purple rectangle featuring Ralph Lauren’s name written in an elegant cursive font.
2. The Ralph Lauren Collection line was established in 1971, initially serving women’s fashion needs. It showcases a collection of ready-to-wear and couture-influenced dresses and skirts, along with jackets, coats, shirts, suits, blazers, sportswear, and footwear. The logo for this line is a small, purple rectangular tag displaying Ralph Lauren’s name in capital letters. Ralph Lauren Black Label was absorbed into the The Ralph Lauren Collection line in 2015, and can be identified by “RALPH LAUREN” white letters against a black label.

A significant majority of RLPL garments are manufactured in the US, Italy, England, and Japan, emphasising the brand’s commitment to quality and craftsmanship. The high labor costs, premium materials, and brand prestige mean that these items command a high manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP) — ranging from $200 to $8000. Interestingly, despite RLPL’s prestige and high value, counterfeiting does not appear to be a significant issue for the line, preserving its reputation for authenticity and originality.

4. Ralph Ralph Lauren (RRL), often pronounced as ‘Double RL’, is a brand line named in tribute to Ralph Lauren and his wife Ricky’s rustic Colorado ranch. Incepted in 1993, the RRL collection presents a nostalgic nod to late 19th and early 20th-century workwear and military-inspired apparel, encapsulating the rugged aesthetics of the American West. The RRL range offers a broad spectrum of garments from officer chinos and trench coats to tassel-adorned suede jackets and selvage denim jackets.

This collection, however, isn’t for everyone. It appeals predominantly to admirers of vintage designs and selvage denim enthusiasts. The RRL insignia, characterised by the white lettering “RRL” against a black background, signifies the brand’s higher-tier position within the Ralph Lauren family, with prices oscillating between $150 and $2500.

Contrary to common assumptions, RRL clothing, while primarily manufactured in Asia—specifically India, China, and Turkey—does not compromise on quality. This claim is particularly evident in their denim lineup. Most of the denim pieces, including jeans and jackets, are crafted in Los Angeles, utilising premium Japanese denim, universally recognised as one of the best globally. RRL products are known for being infrequently counterfeited, but always be cautious and ask an expect if you are unsure.

5. Ralph Lauren Country was first introduced in the early 1980s, and re-emerged with a label change as Polo Country Ralph Lauren in the mid-1990s. The Polo Country Store, which had a relatively brief lifespan, was home to this unique collection. As with many other labels, there has been a modern reproduction of the Polo Country Ralph Lauren line.

Often considered a spiritual predecessor to the RRL brand, Polo Country marked Ralph Lauren’s first sub-label that sought inspiration from the rugged aesthetics of the American outdoors. This was a step into a more specialized domain, moving away from the preppy staples Ralph Lauren was known for.

The Polo Country collection is an eclectic mix of inspirations derived from the American West and British countryside. The collection utilised materials suited to outdoor wear and indicative of these regions, including waxed cotton and tweed. In an homage to the rustic and hardy nature of outdoor life, heavily washed denim, corduroy, and moleskin were also featured prominently.

6. Ralph Lauren Polo Sport Ralph Lauren Polo Sport was introduced in 1992 as a sub-brand that expanded Ralph Lauren’s portfolio into the world of activewear. This line was characterised by its sporty aesthetic, offering a range of performance-driven clothing and accessories that merged Ralph Lauren’s classic style with functional, athletic design elements.

The logo for Ralph Lauren Polo Sport remained consistent throughout the brand’s original run, displaying the text “Polo Sport Ralph Lauren.” The brand was discontinued in the early 2000s therefore making it relatively easy to date items from the vintage collection.

A notable part of Polo Sport’s history is the Stadium collection, which resonated with the brand’s active, sporty ethos. Known for its bold graphics and colours, the collection was originally released in 1992 and was inspired by the athletic gear worn at the 1992 Barcelona Olympics. The collection was relaunched in 2019 as part of the brand’s resurgence, with throwback designs that pay homage to the original collection’s unique style.

7. Chaps, formerly known as Chaps Ralph Lauren, was established in 1978 as a diffusion label within the Ralph Lauren family. Offering both men’s and women’s casual sportswear, this line originally aimed to provide more price-friendly alternatives to the Polo range. However, as of early 2022, the brand reportedly stopped producing womenswear.

Chaps is known for its lower quality when compared to other Ralph Lauren labels, and some fashion enthusiasts might advise avoiding it. The brand’s logo, often displayed prominently on the clothing, originally included the name “Ralph Lauren” but has since simplified to just “Chaps” in the late 1990s to reflect the brand’s separation from direct affiliation with Ralph Lauren.

8. Polo Rugby was launched in 2004 and discontinued in 2013, targeted towards a younger demographic. This brand became well-known for its distinctive and bold designs that took inspiration from traditional British rugby shirts, featuring thick stripes and large logos. Many pieces included the signature embroidered skull and crossbones logo, showcasing a touch of rebellious attitude while maintaining the sophisticated preppy style associated with the Ralph Lauren brand.

Bear in mind that the Rugby line features a multitude of different tags, particularly for shirts. A straightforward method to verify authenticity is through the laundry care tags. If these tags are characterised by nearly indistinguishable, embroidered, or stitched lettering, then the item is likely to be genuine.

9. Denim & Supply Ralph Lauren was an offshoot of the Ralph Lauren brand that existed from 2011 to 2016. The label focused on casual denim-centric wear, targeting a more youthful demographic with its edgy and relaxed styles. The brand’s logo, displaying “Denim & Supply Ralph Lauren” text, was typically presented on a white or off-white label, and the design remained consistent throughout its lifespan.

Despite its relatively short-lived existence, the brand carved out a distinct niche within the Ralph Lauren family, offering an appealing blend of modern trends and vintage-inspired designs. Although the brand is no longer active, its legacy continues to influence the broader Ralph Lauren aesthetic.

10. Polo University Club was a vintage label from the 1980s, primarily focusing on tailoring. It was essentially an entry-level offering licensed by Ralph Lauren. The quality of the pieces in this line was reasonable considering its price bracket, but it wouldn’t meet the standards of high-end premium offerings. For further insights into the history, target market, and offerings of Polo University Club, I recommend reading through the Styleforum thread — comment 5, in particular, is quite informative.

This line offered a unique value proposition – exceptional fabrics at affordable prices. Despite being entry-level in construction, the cut was attractive, characterised by structured shoulders and a lower button stance. If you ever come across a Polo University Club garment, it was likely made between 1981 and 1985.

11. Ralph Lauren X RLX emerged in 1998, embodying Ralph Lauren’s dabbling with the sport and performance wear sector. This line caters to both men and women seeking a touch of class in their athletic wear. The collection includes a vast range of products, from moisture-wicking polo shirts, vests, and jackets to tailored tech pants and shorts, all crafted from recycled synthetic materials like polyester. With its sustainability focus, RLX aligns with eco-conscious consumers’ values.

Since its launch, RLX’s success has led to its absorption of several smaller Ralph Lauren brand lines. These include RLX Golf, a line designed with the golfer’s performance in mind; Polo Golf, targeted at golfers with an emphasis on comfort; Ralph Lauren Rugby, aimed at rugby players and university students; and Polo Sport, a more general sportswear line. As a result, any items found from these now-discontinued lines are likely older models or part of limited-edition capsule collections. Such pieces can be quite valuable in the resale market, especially those that are more colourful or originated from the capsule collections.