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Aviation and space run in Lacoste autumn/winter 2017 collection at New York Fashion Week


As his sporting career drew to a close, René Lacoste went on to join the aircraft industry.

Witness to the first transatlantic crossings, he created “Air Equipement”, a company that contributed to the development of the Concorde and Airbus programs.

It is this other facet of the LACOSTE founder’s visionary mind that Felipe Oliveira Baptista, whose father himself was a pilot, decided to celebrate. Drawing up parallels between the heroes of aviation and the pioneers of the space age, this dreamlike take on modernity is the inspiration behind a resolutely forward-looking collection.

AVANT-GARDE CLOTHING

What could be more ingenious than an astronaut’s suit? The perfect blend of imagination, fantasy and high technology, it is the ideal place to start.

All of its details, whether hidden or apparent, its multiple pockets and gusseted ones, its knee and shoulder padding, its sealed finishing touches and leather or cotton ribbing; its reversibility also, with one side made from waterproof nylon while the other displays wool and linen.

True artistry in the details, highlighted by patches of contrasting colors, its variations of mat and shine, its mix of materials: leather, nylon, cotton, gabardine and tricotine, fleece and synthetic fur.




A QUANTUM LEAP INTO THE 90S

Felipe Oliveira Baptista allows himself to sidestep a little – a small step for the man but a giant leap for his inspiration – and blends the esthetics of conquest with the “mythical” codes of Grunge and 90s streetwear, now modern classics to him, giving ultra functional outfits a jolt and sealing them into the here and now.

A new lease of life for the large or small check brushed wool lumberjack shirt and oversize mohair cardigans reminiscent of the style worn by Kurt Cobain.

Very baggy and army-inspired trousers, that trail to the ground but with an elasticated waist; a dandy’s version of the track pants. Associated to very structured and fitted jackets, they cut an original and daring silhouette.





 

AN ARTISTIC REPRESENTATION OF SPACE

Iridescent prints, Space artist Ron Miller reproductions – full moon, sunsets or Saturn – collide with purposefully dull colors - brown, slate… that are lit-up by metallic effects and sparks of acidity – aniseed, ochre orange and scintillating lilac.

These colors, juxtaposed in blocs following the LACOSTE graphic system, inject dynamism into the garment. As seen with the multicolored and winking whirl of a velvet dress worn over iridescent ankle boots.






HIGH-TECH AND MASTERED CUTS, THE FORMULA OF NEW ELEGANCE

The comfort and functionality so dear to the LACOSTE house, are ingeniously heightened by the high-tech spirit and magical cutting skills of Felipe Oliveira Baptista.

Clever double-faced materials allow for modularity within the reversible models, which can be worn in various and varying ways.

The bags, made from leather or cotton, can be worn lengthwise from the shoulder down, have their width accentuated when handheld, and even become backpacks once freed of their straps.

In order to reach supreme refinement, the designer transcends the idea that an item of clothing should only be practical, and materials, colors and cuts not usually associated with each other are brought together in an original showdown.

The feminine curve of a lilac mohair sweatshirt’s sleeves over baggy trousers, the streamline of a scalpel-cut trench coat paired with very technical sneakers, mark the beginnings of a new kind of elegance. That of a luxury aimed at being, instead of appearing.


This post first appeared on Mun Wai Wong, please read the originial post: here

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Aviation and space run in Lacoste autumn/winter 2017 collection at New York Fashion Week

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