18 km today. Make that plus 3 km for me. More on that later.

Had breakfast with Ulrike, the lady that runs the pilgrim lodge. She rents the place from the church and this is her business. She runs it from Easter to end October (no heating). She told me she will have a big group staying from Wednesday because of a local festival or something. That's how she manage, and not only for pilgrims. I was just lucky to have the whole place to myself. 😆

This is the first time on this camino that I interacted with someone other than just briefly. Before I know it, it was already 9 am, time to move on.

Climbing is a guarantee here after breakfast and from the view on top of the hill looking back at the church/lodge. It is a nice refuge. Incidentally I was told that the church next door is one of few Protestant church in this region. The Latin School (now the lodge run by Ulrike) was originally meant to educated the Catholics here so they can read the bible for themselves (no sure how much success they have. 🤔)

Anyway, this is indeed grape harvesting time.

A good walk among the green and down to Bernkastel-Kues, with a castle on top (same pattern again). Walking along the river for a change to Lieser before heading up and walking along vineyard path with the Mosel below. A little different from the past few days seeing the Mosel only when coming down or up to the forest. Half way at the viewpoint bench I stopped for the sandwich. Nice and slow to Osann-Monzel, confident that the lodge info Ulrike gave me would be available. When I found it, it seems to be like a mini apartments unit. Tried to call the number but number is not working. A lady going in (a guest in one of the units) helped me ring the main bell (probably the owner's unit). Nothing.

Another decision again. There is a hotel near right on the route. Osann-Monzel is above the Mosel and tiny Kesten is down by the river. The hotel sign says the reception will open only at 3 pm. Rather than wait an hour maybe I'll walk 1.4 km down to Kesten to try my luck. If it fails another 1.4 km uphill. 😣

In Keston, the only guest house (weinstube) is not even letting out rooms. 😳

So it's up again and hoping there is vacancy. Phrew... as I am writing this in my room now.

Osann-Monzel (Osann the north part, Monzel the south where the route cuts) seems like a working town. Didn't see any restaurant nearby, guess dinner will be at the hotel.