Many people are quick to acquaint Spain travel with either Madrid or Barcelona only, as these are the 2 largest cities that offer the most frequent and easiest entry points to Spain. Nevertheless, there are other Spanish cities that also deserve to be explored. One of which is the beautiful province of Granada located in the heart of Andalusia region.

Granada and Andalusia

Granada is located south of Spain, around 420 kilometers from Madrid. It’s the capital of the autonomous region of Andalucía (Andalusia), known for its festive people and ambiance, where fiestas (parties) are combined with strong religious beliefs and passion for dance and music. If you’ve heard of the famous Spanish dance flamenco, then you should know that Andalusia was where it all began.
Aside from Granada, Andalusia is comprised of 9 other provinces including Seville, Málaga, and Córdoba, which are also highly recommended to visit when in the south. Of all the people I met in Spain, the Andalusians are perhaps the friendliest, happiest, and if not, the funniest, in the pack.
Talking with them can get tricky sometimes, that aside from the fact that only a few can speak English, the Spanish in Andalusia is way different. While I can understand Spanish, still, I caught myself shookt with the way Andalusians speak theirs, which I’d describe as fast and very accented. To funnily put it: they crave so much for their words they tend to eat and swallow every last delicious syllable :-D

Traveling Granada

Unlike the bigger Spanish cities with a dense population of international travelers, Granada is more likely visited by local tourists. It’s well-visited throughout the year, but people flock in during spring (March-May) or autumn (September-October) where the temperature is average and tolerable. One thing to keep in mind is that Granada and the rest of south of Spain has the warmest and most humid temperature in Spain that could reach as high as 40°C during summer time.
As mentioned, Granada is just small. When I went there in May, I mostly traveled on foot to go from one point to another. For longer distances, I took those local micro buses that go around Granada and have stops in significant spots like the Alhambra. You can either buy either a single ticket for 1.40€ or a top-up card at 5€ for 5 trips, which reduces the fare to 1€. Ticketing machines are available at bus stops, the airport, and train station.
Meanwhile, note that there’s a separate ticket for the airport bus that costs 3€ per trip. These are usually the green buses with Aeropuerto Granada ⇋ Granada signage operated by ALSA.

The Alhambra

Of course. As they say, you can’t finish telling about Granada without even mentioning the great Alhambra. For some (including myself), it’s the very reason why they go to Granada. The Alhambra is a complex of palaces, fortresses, and gardens built as early as the 1200s during the Nasrid dynasty led by Muhammad I, the last Muslim reign in Spain. It was set on a plateau to overlook the old Moorish city, called Albaicin (Albayzin).
It’s hard to put into words how beautiful the Alhambra is. What amazed me the most were the carvings on the walls, especially inside the Nasrid Palaces. I just could not imagine the time and effort poured into carving them. They are so detailed and artistic in every way you see it.
The Alhambra is as huge as 35 acres, which I’d say should take at least half a day to visit. A good way to start exploring the Alhambra is by entering the Nasrid Palaces first, simply because it’s the only area with a timed entry. Make sure to observe the time allotted to you, which is the time you selected when you purchased the ticket.
Next, you can choose to go to the Alcazaba, which is the fortress that served as barracks of the elite guards who protected the complex back then.
This is Generalife (pronounced as /He-ne-ra-li-fe/, not /Je-ne-ra-layf/), which is another palace with a beautiful garden. It’s a patio-like with a water channel and 2 rows of water fountains. The Generalife palace and garden is located outside of the Nasrid Palaces with no timed entry.
Make sure to book in advance especially during autumn, its peak season. In case you go during this time, it’s not about booking ahead in days or weeks, but in months! With my experience, I booked a month in advance to be able to get a day-time entry ticket to the Nasrid Palaces.

Catedral de Granada (Granada Cathedral)

The Granada Cathedral is a huge Roman Catholic church that serves as the seat of the Archdiocese of Granada. Aside from being a religious site, the cathedral stands as the focal point or the center of the province. The cathedral is located along Gran Via de Colon, a big road with significant bus routes, including the ones going to and from the Federico García Lorca Granada-Jaén airport and train station.
Upon entrance to the cathedral, I was immediately mesmerized by the detailed ceiling of carvings and paintings. To me, the highlight of a visit to the cathedral is appreciating its artistic structure.

Entrance to the cathedral is 5€ with audio guide, but is free on Sundays from 3pm-5:45PM.

Alcaicería

The alcaicería in Granada serves as the bazaar of unique items that are mostly of Moorish influence. Walking through these narrow alleys and small shops reminded me so much of my travels in Morocco, which makes sense because the idea of alcaicería really came from Arabs. As said, the word alcaicería came from the Arabic word al-Kaysar-ia, which means "the place of Caesar.” The term was used to thank Justinian the Great, emperor of Byzantine empire, for giving the Arabs the rights to create and sell silks during the 6th century.
From stained-glass lamps called granadino farolas to products with wooden inlay called taracea and painted ceramic plates called fajalauza, it’s a one-stop shop for souvenirs. However, I have to mention that prices here aren’t the cheapest and prone to pickpockets as it’s a very touristy place.

It’s located at Calle Alcaicería, which extends up to Calle Reyes Catolicos and the back of the Granada Cathedral.

Sacromonte

Part of Albaicin, Sacromonte is a neighborhood in the east part known as the home of the 16th century white cuevas (caves). As said, they were built by Jewish and Muslims refugees who left their homes during the Spanish inquisition era. Now, they were turned into cave houses where traditional flamenco dances are being held at night.
Flamenco shows are normally combined with dinner, drinks, and hotel pick-up services, which may range from 58€ and up. If you wish to watch the show only, you may do so and the price is at around 20€. It starts from 9PM onward and it’s best to arrive early because the caves have a limited space.

Flamenco dancers in Granada are countless, but to catch one talented act, then it has to be Claudia La Debla’s performance. This lady started dancing flamenco at a very young age, and this can be obviously in the mastery of her moves. She performs at Venta El Gallo only on weeknights (perhaps it’s because she goes to school on weekdays).

Mirador de San Nicolas (San Nicolas Viewpoint)

On the way to Sacromonte, there are several viewpoints that leave a breathtaking view of the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada behind. One of those is the Mirador de San Nicolas.
True enough with what Bill Clinton said when he visited in 1997, “it’s the most beautiful sunset in the world.” Thus it’s best to visit the place in the afternoon, which also has pubs around for tapas and drinks. It’s also located in Albaicin.

How to go to Granada

Direct international flights to Granada isn’t very common, but it can be reached by taking a quick domestic flight from Barcelona (Vueling) or Madrid (Iberia). With my experience, since I came from Prague, I had to land first in Madrid, then took a connecting flight to Granada.
If coming from Madrid, there are more options for land transfers. You can either take a 3-hour train via RENFE or by multiple bus rides operated by ALSA.

If coming from any part of Andalusia, the estimated hours by ALSA bus are as follows
Málaga to Granada: 2 hours
Córdoba to Granada: 2.5 hours
Seville to Granada: 3 hours