Melbourne wears many hats. It’s often referred to Australia’s capital of culture, food, sport and fashion, and it somehow manages to juggle all of these titles at once. A trip to Melbourne is an essential part of an itinerary for a first trip to Australia. It’s the city you come to for café culture and high culture, street art and the country’s best art gallery. You come to Melbourne for some of the best restaurants in the country, just as much as you come for all-night nightlife and fish sandwiches, gozleme and paella served from a stall at one of the city’s many historic food markets. I’ve lived in Melbourne for four years and have loved calling this city home. I’m excited to finally share my own Melbourne Travel Guide on this blog, which is well overdue!

This Melbourne Travel Guide includes:

• A little bit about Melbourne
• The best time of year to visit Melbourne
• The best things to do in Melbourne
• The best neighbourhoods to visit in Melbourne
• The best cafes & coffee in Melbourne
• The best restaurants in Melbourne
• The best bars in Melbourne
• The best pubs in Melbourne
• The best day trips from Melbourne
• Where to stay in Melbourne

A little bit about Melbourne

Melbourne was once the richest city in the world, during the Australian Gold Rush. It attracted immigrants from all over the globe, mostly from China and Southern Europe, seeking their fortunes in a new country. The city still has beautiful historic buildings and bridges, and the most impressive art gallery in Australia, as a result of this wealth. Even more importantly, the immigrants who flooded the city from all over the world have been instrumental in making it one of the most dynamic cities in Australia. The city’s reputation for excellent food did not come from the British! “Marvellous Melbourne” as it was known, developed a reputation as Australia’s capital for arts, culture and shopping, which lasts to this day.

On the other hand, Melbourne conjures up images of laneways covered in vibrant street art, teeming with cafes, hidden bars and tiny, bustling restaurants. In the 1990s, it became one of the first cities in the world to celebrate street art rather than shun it.

There are a few “sights” to see, but Melbourne is really about being the place to be. International visitors from around the world flock to the city’s roster of world class sporting and cultural events year-round, from the Australian Open and the Grand Prix, to White Night and the Melbourne International Comedy Festival.

While draconian lockout laws shutter Sydney’s bars and restaurants early each night, and shutter businesses and whole precincts as a result, in Melbourne the city council dreams of building a truly 24-hour city and encourages bar and restaurant owners to consider late night licenses and keep the city buzzing all night long. It’s the second-largest city in Australia, but it’s set to overtake Sydney as the country’s largest city by 2026.

The best time to visit Melbourne

Melbourne is known for it’s temperamental weather, which can go from 40 degrees and scorching to cool and rainy in the space of a few hours. Summer is often late in Melbourne, so if you’re after mild spring weather, visit from November-December, for more guaranteed heat, visit from January-early March, or to catch a beautiful (but crisp) Autumn, visit from mid-March to May.

It doesn’t snow in Melbourne, but it does get cold in winter and is coldest from late June-early September. I love autumn in Melbourne, probably because I grew up in Brisbane, which doesn’t have a true autumn. If you’re after some Australian sunshine (and heat), come in January or February.

The best things to do in Melbourne

Need help putting it all together? Try my itinerary for 3 days in Melbourne.

• See a show – Live entertainment is a huge part of living in Melbourne. There’s always something on at the Arts Centre or any of the city’s beautiful historic theatres, and the city has excellent ballet, opera, theatre and concert programs year-round. The Forum in the city is one of Melbourne’s most iconic live music venues, but there are also dozens of small live music venues dotted around the city, particularly in the CBD and Richmond. Major annual events include the Melbourne International Comedy Festival in April, the Melbourne International Jazz Festival in June, Melbourne International Film Festival in August and the legendary White Night, when the city’s landmark buildings are illuminated after dark with a spectacular light show.
• Street art appreciation – Melbourne is one of the first city’s in the world to embrace street art and it’s paid off with gorgeous, jaw-dropping artworks livening up otherwise drab buildings all over the city. Hosier Lane is the most touristed laneway, but there is lots of street art all over the city’s laneways, as well as all over the city – the best neighbourhoods for street art outside the CBD are Fitzroy and Richmond.
• Explore laneways  – Melbourne is famous for it’s vibrant laneways, which are lined with hole in the wall coffee shop, tiny restaurants and hidden bars. More often than not, they’re also beautified with street art. There are great laneways all over Melbourne, but you’ll find most of them in the city. They best laneways can be found in the Melbourne CBD, off Flinders Lane between Elizabeth and Exhibition Streets, and off Little Collins Street and Little Bourke Street.
• Visit the NGV – The National Gallery of Victoria is the best art gallery in Australia – and it’s free! The NGV International on St Kilda Road has a staggering permanent collection as well as hosting a spectacular blockbuster show each summer and winter, which is ticketed. The NGV Australia in Federation Square is one of the best galleries for Australian Art in the country.
• Parks & gardens – There are lots of reasons that Melbourne is so livable, but a major one is the abundance of green space in a city of this size. There are beautiful gardens all over Melbourne, but the prettiest are the Royal Botanic Gardens, the Fitzroy Gardens on the edge of the city and the Carlton Gardens, which are home to the UNESCO World Heritage Listed Royal Exhibition building.
• Explore the city’s historic immigrant precincts – Melbourne is such a dynamic and exciting city because of the thousands of immigrants that poured in from all over the world over the last century. Get a taste of Melbourne’s cultural heritage by visiting the Greek precinct around Lonsdale Street in the city, the Italian precinct at Lygon Street in Carlton, Chinatown in the city and the city’s Vietnamese precinct in Footscray. Needless to say, there’s excellent food at all of these spots (although Lygon St and Lonsdale St have a few tourist traps too).
• City’s beaches – Melbourne may not have a Bondi Beach, but there are still a number of pretty bayside beaches close to the CBD. St Kilda Beach is the perfect spot for a sunset beach picnic and the colourful Bathing Boxes at Dendy Beach in Brighton are a Melbourne icon.
• Visit Melbourne’s historic markets  – Melbourne has dozens of markets, but visiting at least one of the city’s three historic produce markets is an essential part of any trip. Head to the South Melbourne Market for an excellent fish sandwich at one of the outside food stalls, get coffee & a delicious gozleme at the Prahran Market or try one of Melbourne’s famous hot jam doughnuts at the Queen Victoria Market, which is the largest covered market in the southern hemisphere.
• Attend a major sporting event  – Melbourne is totally sports mad, so soak up the atmosphere at one of the city’s many live sporting events. From March-September, catch footy fever at a live AFL game at the MCG – the city has multiple teams, which only increases the rivalry amongst fans at every game. Major international sporting events include the Australian Open in February, the Grand Prix in March and the Boxing Day Test (cricket) in December.

The Best Neighbourhoods to Explore in Melbourne

Check out my rundown of the best neighbourhoods to visit in Melbourne for more ideas and more detail.

• Melbourne CBD (Downtown) – Melbourne’s city centre is much more than a corporate district, with dozens of laneways teeming with hidden cafes, bars and restaurants, ever-changing street art and plenty of great shopping.
• Fitzroy – Head to Smith St & Gertrude St to discover Melbourne’s coolest neighbourhood. Serious coffee snobs, cocktail connoisseurs and op-shop fashionistas will feel right at home.
• Carlton – Melbourne’s historic Italian neighbourhood is best-known for Lygon Street, Melbourne’s own Little Italy. There are plenty of tourist traps, but Brunetti, Heart Attack & Vine and DOC are all winners for modern Melbourne Italian. Don’t miss the Carlton Gardens and the UNESCO World Heritage listed Royal Exhibition Building.
• Richmond – On the edge of the Yarra River, Richmond is technically a northside neighbourhood, but really blends a northside and southside vibe. Head to Swan Street and Church St for the best cafes, bars and pubs in this historic neighbourhood.
• South Yarra – Crossing the Yarra to the southside, head down Chapel Street or along Toorak Road (between Punt Road & Chapel Street) to explore the best of South Yarra. This is the retail end of Chapel Street, although there are a few great wine bars and restaurants in the area too, like Lucky Penny, Caffe e Cucina, Da Noi and South Press.
• Prahran – Head further down Chapel Street to reach Prahran, a younger and trendier sibling to South Yarra. You’ll find more bars, cafes and op shops in Prahran, as well as the historic Prahran Market.
• Windsor – As Chapel Street heads further south, you’ll find the best bars and restaurants in the area in Windsor. Along Chapel Street, the neighbourhood is crammed with tiny bars and restaurants to suit every occasion. My favourites are Tokyo Tina, Lover and the Woods of Windsor.
• St Kilda – Home to Melbourne’s closest city beach, the famous vintage amusement park Luna Park and the famous pastry shops of Acland Street, St Kilda is one of Melbourne’s most colourful neighbourhoods, even if the neighbourhood has started to feel a little sketchier during the last few years. Come for a sunset picnic on St Kilda beach or tapas at Las Tapas.

The Best Cafes & Coffee in Melbourne

Brunch is big business in Melbourne, and I’ve never found another city in the world that does it quite as well (including New York City!).

• Higher Ground, City – Perfect for travellers staying in the city, Higher Ground is a perfect example of Melbourne’s restaurant-for-breakfast style cafes, from the team behind some of Melbourne’s favourite cafes.
• Tall Timber, Prahran – In a neighbourhood with almost more cafes than people, Tall Timber still manages to stand out from the crowd without being over the top. Consistently great coffee and creative, fresh and delicious food.
• Stagger Lee’s, Fitzroy – A classic Fitzroy cafe, Stagger Lee’s has solid coffee and all the brunch classics, with a twist.
• Giddiup, South Melbourne – A tiny table at this tiny cafe near the South Melbourne Market is always worth the wait
• Penta, Elsternwick – Not far from the Elsternwick train station, Penta is easily one of the best cafes in Melbourne.

The Best Restaurants in Melbourne

• Atlas Dining – My favourite restaurant in Melbourne, twenty-something Chef-Owner Charlie Carrington changes the cuisine of the 5-course set menu at Atlas Dining every four months.
• Trattoria Emilia – Of all of Melbourne’s cosy Italian restaurants, Trattoria Emilia in the CBD is my favourite. Rustic Italian in a warm, convivial setting with excellent service.
• Bar Lourinha – Spanish tapas restaurant Bar Lourinha is a longtime Melbourne favourite, serving creative Spanish tapas in a warm, convivial setting. It’s a spot I love to go again and again!

Read more: The Best Restaurants in Melbourne

The Best Bars in Melbourne

• Romeo Lane – Relative newcomer Romeo Lane was named Time Out’s best bar of the year in the year it opened, and it’s still one of my favourites in the city. Tucked away in a laneway off Bourke Street, Romeo Lane is tiny but packs a punch with an impressive cocktail list.
• Punch Lane – A pioneer laneway bar, Punch Lane has been a Melbourne institution for more than two decades. The dark, cosy wine bar is at it’s prime in winter, and it’s the perfect place in the city for a night of wine, cheese and charcuterie.
• State of Grace – State of Grace has re-opened after a two-year hiatus in new digs on King Street in the Melbourne CBD. With the new site comes a brand new rooftop, which is my favourite in the city.
• Embla – One of the city’s most popular wine bars, Embla is always busy but always worth the wait.
• Arbory – Arbory is a long deck that stretches along the Yarra River, and is popular no matter the weather, although it’s best in spring and summer. Come for casual food & drinks with Yarra views.
• Eau de Vie – Melbourne’s most famous hidden cocktail bar Eau de Vie is just as popular with locals as it is with tourists. A gold door handle is the only sign that there’s something special behind an unmarked door in Malthouse Lane.
• Siglo – Tucked away above Spring Street, its easy to miss Siglo. The European-style bar & restaurant is always busy, and the terrace is one of my favourite spots for a wine or cocktail and snacks during spring and summer.
• Lui Bar – For some of the best views in Melbourne, head to the Lui Bar on Level 55 of the Rialto Tower. Drinks aren’t cheap, but it’s worth splurging on a round to enjoy the insane views.

The Best Pubs in Melbourne

There’s a pub on just about every other street corner in Melbourne, and every Melburnian has a favourite local (or two). From historic pubs to modern revivals, these are my favourites.

• The Duke of Wellington – Melbourne’s oldest pub, The Duke, has been lovingly restored for 21st century punters, across three levels. Catch live sport on the ground floor, visit the restaurant and wine bar on the middle level or head to the recently opened rooftop on the third floor for small plates & views to Fed Square.
• O’Connell’s Centenary Hotel – Melbourne’s oldest gastropub sits in the quiet, leafy backstreets of South Melbourne in a gorgeous, wedding-cake-like two story building. Pop into O’Connell’s cosy front bar for drinks and snacks or book a table in the popular restaurant for premium takes on Melbourne pub classics like Beef & Guinness Pie and Veal Schnitzel.
• Prince Alfred – This popular Richmond pub has one of the best beer gardens in Melbourne, and is a great place to while away an afternoon in the sunshine. Prince Alfred is particularly busy on a Sunday afternoon and whenever an AFL game is on.
• Harlow  – New kid on the block, Harlow, is a Melbourne pub for the modern day. There’s a great beer garden, a weekly slow cooked BBQ and plenty of modern, tasty small plates as well as pub classics.

The best day trips & side trips from Melbourne

Melbourne is the capital of Victoria, a small southern state packed with wine regions, beaches, valleys, mountains, national parks and cute country towns.

• Day Trip to the Yarra Valley – The Yarra Valley is Melbourne’s premier wine region, and one of the most awarded wine regions in Australia. The Yarra Valley can be reached in about an hour by car, and there are plenty of bus tours from Melbourne which cover the region.
• Day Trip to the Mornington Peninsula – Southeast of Melbourne, the Mornington Peninsula is one of the most beautiful and accessible regions of Victoria. Make a day trip to cute coastal towns like Rosebud and Sorrento, the beautiful Safety Beach at Dromana and inland wineries like Ten Minutes by Tractor, T’Gallant, Montalto and Tucks. The region is known for it’s award-winning pinot noir.
• Side Trip to the Great Ocean Road – It’s best to take a few days to tackle Australia’s most scenic drive, The Great Ocean Road. It starts at Torquay, about two hours’ drive west of Melbourne, and continues all the way to the South Australian border. Highlights include the 12 Apostles (pictured), Loch Ard Gorge and several other beautiful natural sights inside Port Campbell National Park, beach towns like Torquay, Lorne and Port Campbell, and Great Otway National Park a little further inland.

Looking for more ideas? Check out the best travel destinations in Victoria.

Where to stay in Melbourne

Melbourne is one of those rare cities where staying in the heart of the CBD can actually be a good idea. The best part of the CBD (city centre) is the southeast corner, so anywhere south of Bourke Street and East of Elizabeth or Swanston Streets. It’s fairly compact though, so it doesn’t really matter. King Street and the area around Southern Cross Station can be a little seedier, although compared to most large North American cities, it’s still quite safe.  There are lots of hotels in Southbank, which is a short stroll across the bridge to the city and is right near the arts centre and the NGV. There are lots of bars and restaurants along here, some are good, some are average.

To experience Melbourne more like a local, look for accommodation in Fitzroy, Richmond, Prahran or South Yarra. St Kilda has lots of hostels, however this area has gotten much sketchier over the past few years, so if you’re concerned about street safety consider a different neighbourhood. I love St Kilda, but have to admit I don’t feel as safe walking around there as I do in Richmond, Prahran or South Yarra. Brunswick is a popular hipster neighbourhood, but it’s a bit of a trek from the city and other major areas you might want to visit, so keep that in mind.

Have you been to Melbourne? Would you like to go? Let me know what you think in the comments!

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