In Spain one of the most popular foods is Spanish ham. When I say popular, I mean appearing often. It´s used for celebrations, weddings and birthday dinners. It is part of the Mediterranean diet, appearing in Portugal, Italy as well as Spain. Yet it is also a day to day ingredient in soups, stew and other dishes. Sometimes it seems to be in all almost all the dishes. In summertime it´s even used to top the cold tomato soup, salmorejo.

However you will soon notice that not all the ham is the same. There are many different qualities of jamón in Spain. There are also different regions of production too. The most well-known in Andalusia and Extremadura. Let´s take a closer look at this Spanish staple ingredient.

About Spanish Ham

In the UK, the most common type is boiled ham. Parma ham, Prosciutto and Iberian ham are very different in texture and taste. At first it was hard to grasp what Spanish ham actually was. Jamón iberico is cured in salt and hung in low humidity areas. It takes month to cure, but has relatively little manipulation. It is not cooked or baked in anyway at all.

The name Jamón Iberico takes its name from the Iberian pig and is the most prestigious ham in Spain. The Black Iberian pig breed evolved from the prehistoric wild boar according to recent findings in Doñana. This new discovery from January 2021 of the Suidichnus galani igen. and isp. nov. links this breed to a 300 kg boar. Which once roamed alongside Neanderthals some 106,000 years ago.

Iberian Black Pigs

One of the most typical characteristics of Iberian hams is the Black hoof. Called Pata Negra in Spanish, this phrase in Spanish means quality. So when you see a leg of ham at a Spanish wedding or inside a restaurant, you can clearly see if the hoof is black or not.

Jamón Iberico refers to the breed of the pig but also the way it is produced too. In the photo above you can see Black pigs grazing in Jabugo on the Cinco Jotas land in Huelva. Spanish ham comes from specific regions of Spain.

The protected ones are:

• D.O.P Dehesa de Extremadura
• Denominacíon de Origen Protegido Guijuelo
• D.O.P Jabugo (Huelva)
• Denominacíon de Origen Protegido Los Pedroches
• D.O.P Teruel

Jamón Serrano

There are other Spanish ham producing areas, although these use other breeds such as Duroc.

• Indicación geográfica protegida Trevélez
• I.G.P. Seron
• Lacón Gallego

In Granada, Jamón Serrano is commonly used. This ham from Trevélez was even recognised by the Spanish Queen Isabella II in 1862. Since then has a royal seal stamped onto each ham. Serrano ham from the Alpujarra region is made from white pig breeds and it is cured in the Sierra Nevada mountain villages. The pigs are cereal or grain fed.

Acorn Fed Pigs

The best quality ham is made from Iberian breed pigs which have been acorn fed. (Acorns in Spanish are Bellotas). The large expanses of Dehesa land has plenty of Oak trees for acorns. A natural feed for these pigs. Holm Oaks, Gall Oaks and Cork Oak trees all have slightly different seasons which overlap. Their acorns have slightly different tastes, some are more bitter, others sweeter. The first ones that come into season are from the Portuguese Oak and are sweeter than the cork tree oaks for example.

Montanera

The time that pigs can graze for acorns is very specific. The Montanera season in Spain is from October to March. Iberian ham is of superior quality due to the nutrients and flavour from acorns in the end product.This is only achievable with acorns, Iberian breed and the montanera. The sheer amount of walking that the pig does when it is grazing, creates muscle, which makes those hind legs much better for hams. This exercise also reduces the amount of fat in the ham. It´s thought that they cover around 12 kilometres each day. They also eat other natural things such as roots, mushrooms, grass and plants. Each day each pig consumes 12 kgs of food in the Montanera season.

There are even differences between years (similar to wine). Some years are much better for the Montanera than others. For example 2013 and 2014 were particularly good years. This varies depending on the weather of that year, extremely hot days in September and October aren´t good for the Montanera. The amount of acorns available and which types of oaks have more acorns all affect the season too.

You will notice that a finely sliced jamón iberico has a juicy texture. The meat has a deep intense red wine colour. These premium hams are generally cured for over 40 months. The price of just 100 grams of acorn fed Spanish ham can be around 18 euros.

Spanish Ham – Look for

The main things that affect the price and quality of Spanish ham are:

• Breed of pig – Iberian Black Pig, Duroc, Large White or Landrance.
• Time of Curing – This can be from 24 months which is the minimum time required or over 40 months for premium hams.
• Feed – Acorn fed, partially fed on acorn, grain fed, pellet fed. The difference in feed affects the quality of the meat.
• Region or Brand – Where the pig has been raised and who produced the ham, did the curing process.

In an effort to regulate this sector in 2014 the Spanish government introduced new labelling system. To prevent fraud and overpricing. There are four main labels to look for in Iberian ham varieties.

Spanish Ham Labels

• Black label is for Acorn fed 100% Iberian breed pigs  –  Jamon Iberico de Bellota 100%
• Red label is for Acorn fed cross bred pigs – Jamon Iberico de Bellota
• Green Label – Iberian pigs free to roam. Grain fed. – Jamon Iberico de Cebo de Campo
• White Label – Iberian pigs which are grain fed but are kept in pens – Jamon Iberico de Cebo

The actual life of the animal makes a difference to the quality of the ham. Not only does the feed improve the meat. For example if the pig is fed on acorns, the antioxidants from those acorns is present in the ham. Acorns have a similar DNA to olive oil, and the properties are similar.  So acorn fed ham is a meat product that has qualities which may help reduce cholesterol.

The Ham Museum

On a visit to Aracena in Huelva province, I visited el Museo del Jamón. Inside this building I found out more about Spanish ham, but also details about ham in France, Italy, Portugal and beyond. The different names and methods used.

I also learnt about the rarer pig breed the cerdo ibérico manchado de Jabugo. This spotted Iberian pig breed is specific to the Jabugo area in Huelva and is being reintroduced. This type of pig suffered in 1950´s due to disease and was almost extinct. Now its the most expensive ham in the world. Costing over 4000 euros for a leg of this ham. (compared to a good quality Acorn Fed Iberian Ham costing around 400 euros) In 2014 there were only 50 farmers who owned pigs of this rare spotted breed. All in the Aracena area, Northern part of Huelva province.

At the ham museum, most of the information panels and details are in Spanish language only.

The Importance of Slicing Jamón

In Spain, a Ham Slicer, or Ham Cutter is a profession. Known as Cortador de Jamón, the person is specialised in the selection of Spanish ham and Iberian products. Also the preparation of them. If you take a high quality Iberian Ham and use a machine to slice it, the taste is altered. It creates heat as the blade cuts through and affects the delicate taste.

Hand cutting ham is a Spanish tradition that goes that bit further to making a premium product even better. These Cortadores de Jamón also known their way around a ham leg. So they ensure to get the maximum amount of meat of each leg, giving their clients extra value for money. Some Spanish homes have their own hand stand like the one shown below.

Difference between Spanish Ham and Prosciutto

Italian ham is also known as Parma ham or Prosciutto. It is often compared to Iberian ham. Indeed the curing process and methods are very similar. Spanish ham comes from a specific breed of pig and are usually cured for longer. So the end product is less moist and very flavourful.

Italian Prosciutto is made with a wide range of pig or wild boar breeds. (similar to Serrano ham in Spain). The feed is not as strict as Spanish ham varieties.

In Italy there are specific regions with protected denomination labels.

• DOP Prosciutto di Modena
• Prosciutto de San Danielle DOP
• PDO Prosciutto di Parma
• DOP Prosciutto di Carpegna
• Prosciutto Veneto Berico Euganeo DOP
• Vallée d’Aoste Jambon de Bosses
• DOP Prosciutto Toscano
• Crudo di Cuneo PDO
• PGI Prosciutto di Sauris
• IGP Prosciutto di Norcia

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