A Jewish City
The Realejo is the Jewish quarter in Granada. Located right in the town centre, it was a bustling community at the time of Nasrid rule. The Jewish community was once so important, Granada was known as ´Granada of the jews´. (in Arabic, غرناطة اليهود gharnāṭah al-yahūd).
Realejo Quarter
Jewish history in Granada goes back as far as the year 135. Although some historians refer to the year 70 when jewish settlements may first have been present. This was a time when new lives in Spain evolved. Leaving their native Israel behind. The first time anything was properly recorded was around 303-306 in the cannons of the Synod of Elvira.
The Realejo quarter began to take shape from the year 711 when muslims came to Granada. From 912 onwards when Abd ar Rahman III ruled the Jews really prospered in Al-Andalus and the population grew. During this time they studied Science, commerce and industry. They also traded in the cotton and silk trade, an important business in Granada which grew over the centuries.
Jewish Cemetery
The jewish community and the visir Samuel Ibn Nagrella played an important role in the Kingdom of Granada. This was at the time of the first Ziri King in 1013.
In 1056 Samuel Ibn Nagrella died. Buried in the jewish cemetery which is thought to have been situated in near to the Arch of Elvira. (At one end of the Calle Elvira, just off Gran Via)
Joseph Ibn Naghrela
Jews were treated differently in Granada at different times in history. Just fifty years later, the Granada massacre took place. On 30 December 1066, a large group of Muslims stormed the royal palace. Joseph Ibn Naghrela was one of those killed that day.
He was key Jewish minister at the time. Along with him 1,500 Jewish families died that day, around 4000 people.
A City of Translators
As you move along from Plaza Nueva square in Granada up to Calle Colcha into the Realejo neighbourhood, you see the statue of Yehuba Ibn Tibon. Recognised as an important Translator, Philosopher and Poet. Born in the year 1120 Yehuda Ibn Tibon was a highly cultured man with an important library. Named Father of translators and still to this day his legacy remains.
The translation school at Granada University is one of the best in Europe. This prestigious faculty there attracting many students each year. His teachings and knowledge was the foundation for this school.
Calle Pavaneras
It is recorded that by the end of the fifteenth century the jewish population in Granada was close to 50,000. Working mainly as tax collectors, doctors, ambassadors or as tradesmen. Along Calle Pavaneras in Granada many Jewish craftsmen such as cobblers and leather tanners had their workshops.
In the same area there were traders in wool, linen, cotton and silks.
Also silver and gold traders too. It was quite common that they could speak several languages.
Missing Synagogue
It is unclear where the main synagogue was really located. It may have been on Calle San Matias (where it meets Pavaneras) although nothing reamins of this previous history. Hundreds of years ago a Christian church was built on the site (now it is the MADOC Military headquarters, no longer a religious building)
Another possibility is that it could have been on the site of the current Church of San Cecilio (in the Antequeruela area) although it is not too clear.
Jewish Legacy in Granada
We have to carefully piece together the clues in the city´s history to be able to see the Judaeo-Muslim buildings which remain. This is most visible if you walk around streets in the Realejo such as Calle Jazmin, Calle Laurel or Calle Horno de San Matías. (All are just off the Calle San Matías)
This is the area where I noticed this door decorated with the Star of David.
Further clues lie in some Spanish surnames. There are plenty of recipes using aubergines which was typical in Sefardi cuisine.
The Alhambra Decree of 1492
The majority of Jewish buildings were demolished around the time of 1492 when the Catholic Kings, Fernando & Isabel were increasing in power throughout Al Andalus. In the year 1494 King Fernando ordered the destruction of homes of 20,000 jews to build a new hospital and Cathedral.
The Alhambra Decree of 1492:
We have decided to give order to all jews, men and women to abandon our kingdom and never return. With the exception of those who have been baptized. All the rest must leave our territory by 31 July 1492 to not return. Death penalty and confiscation of belongings will be applied.
At this time the Catholic Kings considered the Jewish community to be Moriscos (Catholic converts). They banished them from the Kingdom of Granada, along with the Christian converted moors.
Many fled to Northern Africa in the 14th & 15th centuries.
Rabbis such as Isaac ben Sheshet Barfat, (Barcelona) Simon ben Semah Duran, (Majorca) or Abraham ben Hakin all came from Spain to Northern Africa to practise in new communities there.
Modern Granada
From 1492 onwards many of the buildings in Granada dramatically changed. Mosques were demolished or drastically altered, converted into Catholic churches. The city of Granada looked totally different before 1492 compared to todays layout.
We have to conjure up an idea of the past by reading about it.
Palacio de los Olvidados
In the city this Museum called Palace of the Forgotten has some jewish items inside. A collection of different exhibits curated from several collections. This also has lots of material about the Spanish Inquisition.
Granada has hardly any trace of its sephardic past. There are few sights to taken in today.
Perhaps the best way to see is to take a guided tour around the Realejo Quarter with a specialised historian. Noticing the narrow streets and retracing the stories of notable buildings in the district.
Centro Sefardi
This family home at Placeta Berrocal gives you insight into a typical Realejo building. Dedicated to Sefardi culture this centre educates visitors in jewish culture. There are some exhibits and a small book collection.
Other Places of Interest
Lucena
Known as Pearl of Sefarad, Lucena was an important Jewish settlement from 9th – 12th century. Located in Cordoba province, this town has a Jewish Necropolis from the 11th century. This site has 346 tombs, showing how important this community was. Some of the tombstones have hebrew text still visible. (Visits by prior arrangement) Jehuda ha Leví, Abraham Ibn Ezrá and even Maimónides all lived in Lucena.
Ubeda
In Jaen province the town of Ubeda has an historic synagogue. Sinagoga del Agua. The building dates back to the 14th century. Inside you can see the Mikveh, the womens gallery and the arches of the synagogue.
This is open for Public and Private visit now.
Click here to Book a Guided Tour of Ubeda
Cordoba
The only conserved Synagogue in Andalusia is in Cordoba. Built in 1315. (In Spain there are only two other ones, in Toledo). This synagogue is small, perhaps belonging to a family. It is no longer in use for worship now but it is open to visitors.
The Jewish Quarter of Cordoba is also an important legacy of Al Andalus. (Dating back to 10th-15th century). This area is on streets: Deanes, Manríquez, Tomás Conde, Judíos, Almanzor and Romero. Cordoba was the birthplace of the Jewish philosopher Maimonides.
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