If you’re an Icelandic news junkie (you know who you are!) you may have seen news of the two beluga whales – Little White and Little Grey – that were transported from a Chinese aquarium to their new forever home and sanctuary in the Westman Islands a couple of weeks ago.

It was a whole thing. 

Although this is not a post about Little Grey and Little White, the Beluga whale sisters seem to have focused the spotlight on the Westman Island and now all of a sudden everyone wants to visit them. 

I spent four days on my own in the Westman Islands last fall and despite the weather not cooperating at all I really enjoyed it. I couldn’t do as much as I had planned to do but enough to get a good taste of what’s on offer for travelers at this often overlooked place. 

So now that our inbox is filling up with questions (and Herjólfur Ferry is filling up of people like never before according recent news) I thought I’d share with you some of what I learned.

How to read through this post

For all of you TL:DR types out there, you can use the links below to jump to different sections of this post that interest you the most. At the end of each section, you can click on the Back to the top link to get back to this overview. 

For everyone else, you can read the post like you usually would from the beginning to the end. 

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• [ps2id url=’#how-to-travel’]How to travel from Reykjavík to the Westman Islands[/ps2id]
  • [ps2id url=’#flying’]Flying[/ps2id]
  • [ps2id url=’#bus’]Bus + Ferry[/ps2id]
  • [ps2id url=’#rental-car’]Rental car + Ferry[/ps2id]

• [ps2id url=’#what-to-see’]What to see and do[/ps2id]
  • [ps2id url=’#natural-wonders’]Natural Wonders[/ps2id]
  • [ps2id url=’#museums’]Museums and attractions[/ps2id]
  • [ps2id url=’#tours’]Tours and activities[/ps2id]
  • [ps2id url=’#food’]Eat and drink[/ps2id]
• [ps2id url=’#itineary’]Sample itinerary for how to spend your day[/ps2id]

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First things first: How to travel from Reykjavík to the Westman Islands for a day trip

To my knowledge, there are no scheduled day tours that go from Reykjavík to the Westman Islands. There was one a few years ago but due to logistics problems, the operator was forced to drop it. They did have plans to resume operation this year but at the beginning of the summer, we received an e-mail where they said they had changed their mind again.

Therefore, there are basically three ways to get to the Westman Islands from Reykjavík: You can fly, take a public bus and the ferry or drive yourself and take the ferry.

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Flying to the Westman Island

There’s one airline that offers scheduled flights from Reykjavík to the Westman Islands, Eagle Air, and it has a couple of flights a day in the summer except on Saturdays when they have none.

The price is around 20.000 ISK per person one way but if you’re lucky you can get discounted fares if you book far enough in advance. Domestic flights in Iceland tend to be on the expensive side but if your budget allows for such luxuries, the flight is only 25 minutes.

For a day trip, it would make the most sense to take the first flight out from Reykjavík at 7:15 and then return on the 16:30 flight from the islands.

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Taking the public bus to the Westman Islands

Although the public bus system in Iceland is maybe not great when it comes to frequency of departures, the actual travel on the buses is not that bad. Many of the buses have free WiFi, the seats are pretty comfortable and the buses not too crowded.

The bus trip from Reykjavík to the Westman Islands

There are two buses from Reykjavík a day to Landeyjahöfn Ferry Terminal where Herjólfur leaves from. On weekdays, both departures leave from Mjódd Bus Terminal but on the weekend and during public holidays the first bus of the day leaves from the BSÍ Bus Stop (not to be confused with the BSÍ Bus Terminal) but the second bus leaves from Mjódd. The bus that leaves from the BSÍ bus stop will also stop in Mjódd on the way out of town if you’re staying somewhere close by.

If you plan to visit just for the day, you will need to take the first bus of the day from Mjódd at 8:00 am on weekdays and 7:55 from the BSÍ bus stop on the weekend. This bus will get you to Landeyjahöfn in about 2 hours or in time for the 10:45 ferry departure from Landeyjahöfn Terminal.

The ferry, Herjólfur, takes about 40 minutes, and it’s recommended to book your ticket in advance. The Westman Islands has a few big events every summer like big soccer tournaments and music festivals and on such days the ferry will often be booked out weeks or months in advance so always make sure you check the availability beforehand.

Getting back to Reykjavík with Herjólfur ferry and the bus

To get back to Reykjavík, on weekdays you need to take the 19:30 ferry from the Westman Islands to Landeyjahöfn in order to catch the bus that leaves for Reykajvík at 20:40. On the weekend, the bus leaves Landeyjahöfn at 18:00 which means you need to take the ferry at 17:00 from the Westman Islands.

On weekdays you can expect to be back in Reykjavík around 23:15 but on the weekend and on public holidays you’d be back around 20:20. Keep in mind that the bus only goes to Mjódd so you will need to make your way from there to where you’re staying.

Prices

In 2019 the price for the bus is 4700 ISK per person one way and the ferry is 1600 ISK per person one way. That means that the total price for a return trip is 12.600 ISK or considerably lower than flying.

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Exchange ticket on the bus

If you need to take a bus from downtown Reykjavík to get to Mjódd, remember to ask the driver for an exchange ticket when you pay. The fare from Mjódd to Landeyjahöfn, 4700 ISK, equals 10 tickets and the exchange ticket will lower the price by one ticket or 470 ISK. You can do the same on the way back. If you’re using the Strætó app, you can use your ticket to Landeyjahöfn on the bus from downtown Reykjavík to Mjódd too.

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So to summarize:

Take the bus at 8:00 from Mjódd (or 7:55 from the BSÍ bus stop on weekends/public holidays) to catch the 10:45 ferry from Landeyjahöfn.

Take the ferry from the Westman Islands at 19:30 (17:00 on weekends/public holidays) to catch the 20:40 bus (18:00 on weekends/public holidays) to Reykjavík.

These timings are correct based on the schedule of Strætó and Herjólfur Ferry in June 2019. For more information, please visit the Strætó and Herjólfur Ferry websites for the latest updates

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Visiting the Westman Islands with a rental car.

If you are renting a car, you can control your day a lot better because there are more ferry departures than there are bus departures.

The drive from Reykjavík and departure time from Landeyjahöfn Ferry Terminal

The drive from Reykjavík to Landeyjahöfn Ferry Terminal is about 2 hours and you want to be there a little early so make sure you allow enough time for the drive. Herjólfur Ferry has multiple departures each day but the 10:45 is convenient as it means you don’t have to wake up super early for the drive but you still arrive early enough that you have almost the full day to explore the island.

If you would rather leave Landeyjahöfn with the first ferry of the day at 8:15 am, you will need to leave Reykjavík around 6 am.

Prices for bringing your car with you (and why you should consider leaving it behind in the Landeyjahöfn)

It costs 2300 ISK extra one way to bring your normal-sized vehicle with you on the ferry and the spaces are limited so it’s wise to book your spot in advance. I would argue that it’s better to leave the car in Landeyjahöfn and either walk around the island or do tours if you want to visit places outside of the main town as the town is not big and almost everything is in comfortable walking distance from the ferry terminal.

Another thing to consider is that if all the tourists that visit the Westman Islands would bring a car with them, it would make it next to impossible for the locals to travel to the mainland on short notice with their car (maybe to attend a funeral that you can’t plan ahead for). So it’s not only unnecessary to bring the car, but it could also be argued that you’re being a more considerate traveler by leaving the car in Landeyjahöfn. You know, if you care about stuff like that.

Plus you don’t have to worry about parking (something I dislike with a passion). 

Getting back to Reykjavík

The last ferry back to Landeyjahöfn is at 22:00 which means you will be getting back to Reykjavík close to 1 am. If you want to be back at a bit more reasonable hour, the departure before that is at 19:30 which should have you back in Reykjavík just after 10 pm.

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Now that you’ve made it to the Westman Islands, what to do there?

The main reasons why travelers visit the Westman Islands are the beautiful nature that surrounds the town, the diverse bird life (puffins!) and everything surrounding the 1973 volcanic eruption. It’s a special place and you can easily spend a few days there but the good news that it’s entirely possible to get a good feel for it on a day trip if that’s all the time you have to spare.

The main attractions are mostly in town or close by and the attractions further afield are easily accessible on tours or you could even walk or rent a bike if you have the time for it. On a day trip, if you want to see and do a lot a tour is probably your best bet though.

Please keep in mind that this list is not exhaustive and there’s a lot more to do and see in the Westman Islands but this post is long enough as it is. 

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Natural wonders

Stórhöfði Cape

Stórhöfði is a cape on the south side of the main island, Heimey, which has the infamous claim to fame to be the windiest place in Iceland (or even in the whole of Europe). If you don’t have a car and you don’t want to do a tour, the walk from Herjólfur ferry is about an hour and a half and a lot of it is uphill. Stórhöfði is not only known for being windy but it also offers amazing views and an opportunity to see those pesky puffins in summer but hundreds of thousands of puffins call it home.

Eldfell

Eldfell is one of the youngest mountains in Iceland and it was formed in the eruption in 1973. You can hike to the top of it and it’s not a terribly difficult hike nor is it long. If hiking doesn’t sound appealing to you, you can also walk around in the lava surrounding it to get a better feel for just how big the eruption in 1973 was.

Heimaklettur

Heimaklettur is one of the most prominent natural attraction in the Westman Islands and it can be seen from anywhere in town. You can do more than admire it though as it’s a popular hiking route for the locals year-round. It’s a pretty steep hike that includes some roped ladders, ropes and chains and if you have a fear of heights, it may be best for you to find something else to do. But if you’re reasonably fit and ready for an adventure the hike will reward you with some amazing views. Just remember to inquire about the conditions and the weather before you embark on this hike.

The Elephant Rock

If you have friends who have visited Vestmannaeyjar, it’s very likely that you have a seen a photo from their trip of a rock that is shaped like an elephant. It’s one of those places that Instagram has made famous and now everyone has to get that photo.  Although you can see it from land (near the golf course in Herjólfsdalur) the best way to get a good photo of it is by doing a boat tour around the islands.

The Puffins

The Westman Islands is a great place to see some puffins and you can see them both by visiting the Stórhöfði cape or by doing a boat tour around the islands. 

If you’re cray-cray for puffins and you enjoy very local experiences, you might want to consider visiting the islands in the fall and join the rescue mission when the young puffins get seduced and confused by the lights in town. Locals and visitors alike head out to the streets to search for the pufflings, get them to the right authorities and then they are released back into nature where they belong. It’s a bit hard to plan for this since the puffins kind of do their own thing but this usually takes places for a few weeks in August and September.

Skansinn

I’m not quite sure what to call Skansinn but it both offers beautiful sights and some history. Basically Skansinn was a fort that was built in the 1500s and you can still find (mostly rebuilt I think) parts of it there. In the area there’s also a stave church that was a gift from Norway to celebrate 1000 years of Christianity in Iceland and I’ve even seen seals hanging around close by (as demonstrated by the photo below).

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Museums and attractions

Eldeimar

I have to say that I find the Eldheimar museum super fascinating. It’s based around a house that was dug out from underneath the lava that swallowed a part of the town in the 1973 eruption. The house was left exactly like it was found, with some of the family’s personal belongings even scattered around, and you can use remotely operated cameras to explore the ruins. Additionally, there’s a lot of information about the eruption and what happened before and after it sprinkled with personal stories from the people who lived through it. I would go as far as saying that it’s a must visit for anyone visiting the Westman Islands to understand the people who live there and their history a bit more.

The whale sanctuary visitor center, puffin rescue center and aquarium

As this is a new attraction, I have yet to visit the Beluga Whale Sanctuary and the information on their website is somewhat limited so I can’t tell you much about it other than that it exists and you can visit it. I did visit the aquarium when it was in its previous location and got to meet some rescue puffins that were a hoot.

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Tours and activities

Boat Tours

Round boat tour

On this 1.5-hour Westman Islands boat tour you will go around the main island Heimey and on the way, you’ll catch a glimpse of the diverse bird life on the island, see where the lava flowing from the 1973 eruption was stopped from closing Heimaey’s natural harbor, experience the acoustics in natural sea caves on the way and get close enough to the famous elephant rock for a marvelous photo for your Instagram.

This tour is a great option for the whole family as it doesn’t require anything more of you than that you just get yourself onboard and there are no age restrictions so the kids can join too.

There are at least 2 departures a day they will sometimes add more tours if the island is full of people. I’ve done this tour myself and I quite enjoyed it.

Rib Safari

You can do two different rib safari tours from the Westman Islands but our daughter, who has joined us on many adventures around Iceland, loved it when she did it with the kids from her class on their graduation trip to the Westman islands in the spring.

The shorter 1-hour Rib Safari tour doesn’t go all the way around the islands but due to the speed of the boat, you will still be able to visit some places that the big boat can’t access. The 2-hour Rib Safari tour will take you all around the islands like the more family-friendly Round Boat Tour and will add some stops that are more difficult to reach on normal boat tours.

The rib safari tours have an age limit of 6 years and you will need to wear a special overall to be able to participate. Please note that rib safari tours are not suitable for individuals with lower back pain or other back issues or bad knees and it’s very important that you follow the guide’s instruction at all times to avoid injuries and discomfort. On rare occasions, people have been hurt on these tours – often because of underlying problems or if instructions were ignored. This is not an adventure for everyone!

Bus Tours

If the sea life is not for you, you can also do a 1,5 – 2-hour bus tour around Heimaey island that includes stops at Sprangan, Stórhöfði cape, Eldfell, the Elephant rock and Herjólfsdalur. This bus tour might be of special interest to puffin lovers as the tour includes a visit to the Puffin Rescue Center where you will get an exclusive meet and greet with a live rescue puffin – an experience not open to the public.

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Eat and drink

Slippurinn

Slippurinn is considered by many one of the best restaurants in Iceland outside of the Reykjavík area. They take their inspiration from new Nordic cuisine (similar to Dill here in Reykjavík) and the slow food movement and source as much as they can locally. The executive chef is or has been involved with some great restaurants here in Reykjavík such as Skál, Matur og Drykkur and MatBar.

Gott

Gott is another family-owned restaurant that puts emphasis on locally sourced healthy ingredients. Their menu has everything from pasta and Indian inspired wraps to fish of the day with everything made from scratch at the restaurant. The prices are reasonable and the place itself pretty cozy. 

Brothers Brewery Ölstofa Brew Pub

If you’re a beer aficionado you should check out local microbrewery Brothers Brewery’s brewpub where you can sample their offerings. They’re only open from Thursdays to Saturdays but you can find their beer in restaurants and bars around town too. 

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Sample Itinerary: How to maximize your time on a day trip to the Westman Islands

10:45: Ferry from Landeyjahöfn to the Westman Islands. 

Whether you will be driving from Reykjavík yourself or taking the bus it’s likely that you’ll arrive on the 10:45 ferry from Landeyjahöfn.

To keep things simple, if you’re driving yourself I’m going to assume that you leave the car in Landeyjahöfn as I suggested. 

Because you have a pretty busy day ahead of you, I recommend you either bring a packed lunch/snacks or you can buy something on board in Herjólfur. 

11:25: Arrival in the Westman Islands

As I mentioned previously in this post, the town and the island itself is not that big so you can easily walk everywhere. The ferry terminal is by the harbor and it’s only a short walk from there to most attractions in town. 

For example, the walk to where the boat and bus tours leave from is 3 minutes, the walk to Eldheimar is about 20 minutes, the walk to Stórhöfði is about 90 minutes, the walk to Skansinn is about 10-15 minutes and the walk to Herjólfsdalur is about 30 minutes. 

12:00: A 1,5 – 2-hour bus tour around the island

Because you don’t have a lot of time and I assume you want to make good use of your time, I recommend you do a bus tour around the island as soon as you get there. That way you’ll learn something about the town, its inhabitants and the eruption of 1973 before you go out and explore on your own. 

The tour is about 1,5 to 2 hours and it takes you to all the biggest landmarks on the island, including Stórhöfði, Eldfell and the Spranga where your guide will swing on a rope in the cliffs to show you a favorite island activity. 

The tour includes an entrance to the Beluga Whale Sanctuary and Puffin Rescue Center where you’ll meet some rescue puffins. 

14:30: Boat Tour around the island

Now that you’ve explored the island on land, it’s time to see it from the ocean. The bus tour will end at the Beluga Sanctuary which is a 2-minute walk from where the boat tour starts. There’s a restaurant called Tanginn right next to where the tours leave from where you can get some coffee (sit down or to go) while you wait. 

The boat tour is 1.5 hours so you’ll be finished around 16:00 with plenty of time to spare to explore a bit on your own. 

Alternatively, you could go from the Beluga sanctuary to Eldheimar museum and do a Rib Safari tour (either 1 hour or 2 hours) at 16:00. If the museum doesn’t excite you, you could also use the time to go into town and have a late lunch. 

17:00: Eldheimar museum

Eldheimar is open to 18:00 which gives you about an hour to explore the museum. An audio guide is included in the price and I recommend you take advantage of it. An hour is plenty of time if you’re a casual museum-goer but if you’re one of those people who read every sign and needs to watch every video (heyo – I feel you!) you may need to rearrange some things or skip one of the tours to give you some more time. 

19:00: Take the ferry back to Landeyjahöfn. 

If you’re taking a bus from Landeyjahöfn to Reykjavík, you need to take the 19:30 ferry from the island. So from when Eldheimar closes at 18:00 until you need to be back at the harbor, you have just over an hour to explore. 

I would recommend you walk over to Landakirkja (10-15 minutes) and make your way from there back down to the harbor, checking out the charming colorful buildings at Skvísusund (Norðursund) on the way. 

Just remember that on the weekend you need to be on the ferry leaving at 17:00 to catch the bus at 18:00. 

An alternative take on the day

If doing two tours seems a bit excessive to you, you could always choose just one tour and spend the rest of the time exploring on your own. If you do the boat tour, for example, you can walk around and see most of the things offered on the bus tour (with the exception of Stórhöfði) on your own. It will just take you a bit longer and you need to walk a lot more. 

The one-hour rib safari has departures at 12:00 and 14:30 that could work with your schedule and the two-hour tour at 12:00 but you could also stick with doing either tour at 16:00. The regular boat tour only has one departure that works with your schedule at 14:30. 

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