One of the things I was most excited about moving to Mexico was the chance to celebrate Dia de los Muertos, Day of the Dead. This is the time of the year when the dead return to Earth to visit their loved ones. The iconic holiday is a vibrant and colorful celebration of death throughout Mexico.
But it is in the capital, Mexico City, where the celebrations are the biggest, loudest and grandest. Mega ofrendas (altars) are erected in major squares and museums; while giant floats Parade through the streets. Men, women and kids alike adorn beautiful skull paintings and enjoy food and drinks at the cemeteries to honor their deceased family.
After celebrating Day of the Dead in Mexico City last week, I’ve put together a detailed guide below with tips on where best to stay, where to see the parade, best events, and more.
Day of the Dead in Mexico City
What is Dia de los Muertos?
The roots of the Day of the Dead go back some 3,000 years, to the rituals honoring the dead in pre-hispanic Mesoamerica. The Aztecs held a cyclical view of the universe, and saw death as an integral, ever-present part of life.
Day of the Dead is not a somber affair in Mexico — since the Aztec era, it has always been a lively celebration to honor the deceased. Today, Dia de Muertos is a blend of Mesoamerican ritual, European religion and Spanish culture. It’s definitely not the “Mexican version of Halloween.”
The holiday was even added to UNESCO’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage as “a defining aspect of Mexican culture.”
How is Dia de los Muertos Celebrated?
Traditionally, the Day of the Dead has always been a family affair. Families erect ofrendas (altar offerings) to honor their deceased family members. They then decorate the altar with candles, opal incense, marigold flowers, photos of the departed, and the favorite foods and drinks.
These days, the celebrations have evolved over time but they’re still centered on Mexican traditions. Museums display massive ofrendas, squares and avenues are lined with colorful alebrijes (mythical creatures) and calaveras (skulls), while every shop and restaurant is decorated with papel picado (paper flags).
On the streets, you’ll see many people dressed as La Catrina, with beautiful face paint and floral headbands. Get your face painted, put on a flower head-band, and prepare for one hell of a party!
Why Celebrate Dia de los Muertos in Mexico City?
We’d originally planned to celebrate the Day of the Dead in Oaxaca, a culturally-rich city in Mexico that’s huge on Dia de Muertos traditions. But many Day of the Dead events in Oaxaca were cancelled in 2021.
So as an alternative, we decided to celebrate Day of the Dead in Mexico City — and we were so glad we did! Mexico City definitely went over the top with its celebrations. Everything was big in terms of the scale of parades, ofrendas and cemetery gatherings.
It was also easier and cheaper to fly to Mexico City from many parts of the world. Even at the last minute, you’ll still find flights and accommodation in Mexico City that won’t burn a hole in your pocket. Plus, there are tons of museums, parks and interesting attractions to visit in Mexico City. Check out my Mexico City itinerary.
When is Dia de los Muertos?
In Mexico City, Día de los Muertos can be a week-long affair, with events starting as early as 22 October, and culminating on 1 and 2 November.
The highlight of the festivities in Mexico City is undoubtedly the parade, or Desfile de Día de Muertos, that take place through the historic center. This year, it was held on Sunday 31 October and spirits were clearly at the highest on this day.
Throughout the week, there will be non-stop events happening all over the city, from parades to street parties, outdoor markets, display of mega ofrendas, and food festivals. Scroll down to see the detailed schedule of events.
When to Start Planning Your Day of the Dead Trip
Many people travel around Mexico during Dia de Muertos. I would recommend booking your flights and accommodation as early as April or May.
When I searched for flights in September, return flights from Cancun to Oaxaca were already very expensive (US$300+). Thankfully flights to Mexico City were still affordable in September. I ended up paying only US$70 for our return flights from Cancun to Mexico City.
There are direct flights to Mexico City from many major cities in the US, including New York, Miami, Los Angeles, and Atlanta. You can get return flights as cheap as US$300. Note that many domestic airlines in Mexico charge for carry-on luggage, so be sure to check your booking before flying. Search for flights here.
Mexico Travel Requirements
Mexico has no travel restrictions, and there’s no need for proof of vaccine or PCR tests. Anyone is welcomed to travel to Mexico.
However, I always recommend travelers to buy travel insurance, whether you’re traveling for a year or a week. It is particularly important to have travel insurance that covers COVID-19.
Safety Wing is the most popular travel insurance company for COVID19-coverage. I use their Nomad Insurance plan, which covers COVID-19 as any other illness as long as it was not contracted before your coverage start date. Refer to my travel insurance guide for more details.
Where to Stay During Day of the Dead in Mexico City
The Centro Histórico (historic center) is a convenient location to stay, as most attractions, events and the parade take place here. We loved the location of our hotel, but I’d recommend staying at a hotel on the Paseo de la Reforma, where the parade takes place.
- Hampton Inn & Suites — We stayed at this hotel in the historic center and loved the location, just two blocks from the main square (Zocalo). Highly recommend it for families who need extra space.
- Hotel Zocalo Central — Right next to the Cathedral overlooking the Zocalo (main square), this centrally located hotel is housed in a 1890s building and features a gorgeous design. Their rooftop restaurant is my favorite place to eat in Mexico City.
- The St Regis Mexico City — Located along the famous Paseo de la Reforma, this luxurious hotel offers excellent views of the parade. Its rooftop restaurant also offers a special buffet lunch during Day of the Dead.
- Mexico City Marriott Reforma Hotel — Also overlooking Paseo de la Reforma, this is an affordable hotel to stay within walking distance of the Angel of Independence monument and many Day of the Dead events.
- Fiesta Americana Reforma — This is the cheapest option for accommodation along Paseo de la Reforma. It’s got great reviews and rooms look spacious and comfortable.
How to Get around During Day of the Dead in Mexico City
Day of the Dead is a popular time to visit Mexico City, so expect crowds and crazy traffic in many parts of the city! This year, over 3 million tourists poured into Mexico City for Dia de Muertos.
If you’re staying in the historic center, it’s easy to get around on foot. To get outside of the centre, we usually took Uber — though I wouldn’t recommend doing that on the day of the parade (as many roads are closed).
Alternatively, the metro system in Mexico City works well and it’s the cheapest way to get around. Note that certain metro stations in Mexico City are closed during the parade. This year, the stations Zócalo-Tenochtitlán y Pino Suárez (line 1 and 2) were closed on 31 October.
Is It Safe to Visit Mexico City for Day of the Dead?
I’ll be writing a separate article on this. In short, my husband, daughter and I all felt super safe in Mexico City and had no security issues at all.
Yes it was crowded everywhere, especially during the parade; but we kept our belongings close to us, brought minimal cash with us, and had no problems. Of course, we avoided seedy areas, and we weren’t hanging out late at night or getting drunk on the streets.
All in all, stick to the tourist areas and you’ll be fine (that means centro historico, Roma, Condesa, Coyoacan and Xochimilco). Avoid areas like Iztapalapa, Tepito, La Lagunia, Mercado Merced, Doctores and Ciudad Neza.
Dia de los Muertos Traditions
To get you aquainted with Dia de los Muertos terminology, here’s a list of traditions that are commonly practiced during this holiday.
- Calaveras — Skulls are ubiquitous during Day of the Dead. The skulls are often drawn with a smile as to laugh at death itself.
- La Catrina — An emblematic character that represents Dia de Muertos. She’s a classy skeletal lady created by Jose Guadalupe Posada in order to bring elegance and a sense of aristocracy to the celebration.
- Alebrijes — Brightly colored Mexican folk art sculptures of fantastical (fantasy/mythical) creatures. In Mexico, they’re considered the creatures from the realm of the dead.
- Ofrendas — Altar offerings that every family in Mexico sets up in their home for the dead. The altar usually includes photos of deceased family members, their favorite food, candles, copal and marigold flowers.
- Sugar Skulls — The quintessential Day of the Dead treat. This water and sugar based treat represents the merging of Pre Hispanic culture with the Spanish custom of molding.
- Pan de Muertos — Another traditional Dia de Muertos treat, this is a sweetened soft bun decorated with bone-shaped phalanges pieces. The bones represent the deceased, and they’re represented in a circle to portray the circle of life.
- Cempasuchil — Iconic orange marigold flowers that adorn every altar on the Day of Dead. Their petals are laid out as walkways for the dead to find their way on earth so they may be reunited with their loved ones.
- Papel Picado — A colorful string of flags that lights up a room or a whole street. It’s made up of fine color paper cuttings, showing images associated with the Day of the Dead.
Mexico City Day of the Dead Events & Schedule
There are so many Day of the Dead events in Mexico City that you’ll need to spend at least a week here to experience them all. We spent 6 days in Mexico City and wished we could stay longer! The Dia de Muertos events start as early as 22 October — here’s a list of the best events in chronological order.
*In 2021, some events were cancelled, but the parade went ahead. Event announcements are usually made at the last minute, so check back in September 2022 for latest updates.
22 – 29 Oct: Cempasúchil Festival
Try to arrive in Mexico City a few days before Day of the Dead begins, as you’ll get to see preparations for the holidays underway. One of the first events to kickoff the celebrations, the Cempasúchil Festival on Paseo de la Reforma showcases the iconic marigold flowers.
Cempasuchil is called “Flor de Muerto” (Spanish for Flower of Dead) and it symbolizes the beauty and fragility of life. The flower’s vibrant colors and scent attract the departed souls, as they return to feast on their favorite foods.
When: 10am to 6pm
Where: Paseo de la Reforma
Cost: Free
22 Oct – 4 Nov: Jean Paul Gaultier Ofrenda
A major ofrenda worth visiting in Mexico City is the Jean Paul Gaultier ofrenda, which pays tribute to the Mexican culture. He designs an altar based on a different theme each year.
This year, the ofrenda was housed in a massive blue and white skull. Once inside, there was an altar with traditional elements of pre-Hispanic and Mexican culture, such as the tree of life, wax skulls, and Zapotec candles. These items were curated by Ubuntu Market , a collective of artisan communities.
When: 11am to 7pm
Where: Paseo de la Reforma 36
Cost: Free
28 Oct – 4 Nov: Ornate Ofrenda at Museo Frida Kahlo
In the week leading up to Day of the Dead, many major museums will already have their ofrendas on display. One of the best ofrendas is at the Museo Frida Kahlo (also known as Casa Azul or Blue House).
Housed in the home where she was born and raised, the museum showcases Frida’s life and work. Tickets are sold out weeks in advance during holidays, so make sure to book your tickets in advance. (You’ll not be allowed in without a pre-booked ticket!)
When: 10am to 5pm (closed on Mondays)
Where: Museo de Frida Kahlo, Coyoacan
Cost: 250 pesos
28 Oct – 4 Nov: Ornate Ofrenda at Museo Anahuacalli
Another museum with an impressive ofrenda is the Anahuacalli Museum, dedicated to Frida Kahlo’s husband Diego Rivera. He was an accomplished artist and had an impressive collection of pre-Hispanic artwork which are all on display here.
This year’s ofrenda was completely purple, shrouded in a dark but sexy atmosphere.
When: 11am to 5.30pm (closed on Mondays)
Where: Museo de Anahuacalli, Coyoacan
Cost: 100 pesos (free with the Frida Kahlo Museum ticket)
28 Oct – 4 Nov: Ornate Ofrenda at Museo de Arte Populare
My favorite of all the museums we visited in Mexico City, the Museo de Arte Popular is a beautiful Art Deco space devoted to the weird and wonderful folk art traditions of Mexico.
This is the best place to learn about alebrijes, gigantic and fantastical animal figures like flies with dragon tails and multi-headed lions, all painted with neon colors. The main atrium of the museum plays host to a colorful and ornate ofrenda that’s usually on display from the end of October to November.
When: 10am to 6pm (closed on Mondays)
Where: Museo de Arte Popular, Centro Historico
Cost: 60 pesos
28 Oct – 7 Nov: Mexicraneos Exhibition
Stretching cross Paseo de la Reforma, Mexicraneos is an exhibition of monumental skulls where traditional and modern art come together. Every year, around 55 skulls are on display along the broad avenue.
When: 10am to 5pm
Where: Paseo de la Reforma, from Angel of Independence to the Glorieta de la Palma
Cost: Free
29 October – 3 November: Megaofrenda of Zócalo
In the Zocalo (main square) of the historic center, you’ll find the biggest ofrenda in Mexico City. The 2021 ofrenda was dedicated to the victims of COVID19. It also took the form of map of Mexico City, with each of the 16 boroughs represented in different ways. Also at the Zocalo were sculptures of alebrijes and Catrina that were on display for their annual competition.
When: 12 to 8pm
Where: Zocalo, main square of historic center
Cost: Free
29 Oct – 3 Nov: Ofrendas at Alameda Central
The lush green park of Alameda Central in the historic center will also play host to plenty of activities including beautiful ofrendas, murals, and performances.
Created by local communities, the Dia de Muertos artwork on display are gorgeous, especially the tzompantli (skull rack). There are also cultural dances and musical performances all weekend long.
The park is located next to Paseo de la Reforma, where the parade takes place. The lush green lawn and water fountains provide a great respite from the crowd. We came here after the parade to lie on the lawn, rest and soak in the atmosphere!
When: 11am to 6pm
Where: Alameda Central, historic center
Cost: Free
Where to Get Face Painted on Day of the Dead
Everywhere you go in Mexico City during the Day of the Dead, you’ll see people adorning the Catrina skull face painting. It’s common for kids, women and men alike to all get dressed up.
There are usually tons of makeup artists with temporary stands. A face paint costs around 100 Pesos ($5) and takes 15-20 minutes. Go at around 10am — otherwise you’ll be in line for awhile. We waited in line for 45 minutes for our turn! They usually have a book of designs to choose from, or you can show them what you want on your phone.
Here are some places to find face painters:
- Zocalo (next to the Templo Mayor)
- Alameda Central (at the end of the park)
- Coyoacan Jardin Centenario
- Bosque Chapultepec (next to Castillo Chapultepec)
29 Oct – 2 Nov: Pan de Muertos Festival
During Dia de Muertos, it’s traditional to eat the pan de muertos, a sweetened soft bun decorated with bone-shaped phalanges pieces. The bones represent the deceased, and the buns are round to signify the circle of life. There is also a baked tear drop on the bread to represent goddess Chimalma’s tears for the living.
The Festival del Pan de Muerto is a new event inaugurated this year. From 29 Oct to 2 Nov, vendors from all over Mexico gather at Plaza San Jeronimo in Centro Historico to serve different kinds of pan de muerto (which cost around 10-50 pesos), along with steaming cups of hot chocolate.
When: 11am to 8pm
Where: Plaza San Jeronimo
Cost: Free entry but book a slot to enter.
29 Oct – 2 Nov: Coyoacan Festival
In the bohemian borough of Coyoacan (about a 20-minute drive south of downtown), you’ll find some of the biggest Day of the Dead celebrations in Mexico City.
Coyoacan is one of my favorite parts of Mexico City — it retains its village vibes, with narrow colonial-era streets, cafes and a lively atmosphere. During Day of the Dead, its main plazas (squares) are brimming with festivities: cultural performances, street markets, food stands, and ornate ofrendas.
Here are some events in Coyoacan that took place in 2021:
- 30 Oct 7pm: Choir performance at the atrium in front of the Parroquia de San Juan Bautista
- 31 Oct 10am-6pm: Artisan market
- 1 Nov 10am-6pm: Kids’ workshop to write calaveritas (poems)
- 2 Nov 1pm: Parade of Catrinas, skulls, and other deceased
- Nightly walking tour: A special tour run by the municipality that will bring you through hidden alleyways, colonial buildings, and secret locations throughout the center of Coyoacán. Cost: 280 pesos. Book here!
29 Oct – 28 Nov: La Llorona in Xochimilco
A special Dia de Muertos event, La Llorona is a musical show staged on the floating islands of Xochimilco (well known for the Aztec-era canal system). To see the show, you’ll need to take a trajinera (boat) and weave through the canals in the dark. Make sure to book your tickets at least 1 month in advance if you want to watch it on 1 or 2 November.
La Llorona is a famous character in Mexican folklore. She’s ‘the weeping lady’ who spends eternity crying for the children she lost. This musical tells the origins of the story and it’s an impressive display of Nahuatl music and pre-Hispanic traditions.
It gets rather cold at night on the water, so make sure to bring a jacket. There are vendors on boats selling beer, hot elote (roasted corn) and tamales. There’s even a boat with portable toilets that you can use for 10 pesos.
When: Show times are at 6pm, 7pm and 9.45pm
Where: Embarcadero de Cuemanco, Xochimilco
How: Buy your tickets here and get them printed at TicketMaster
Cost: 570 pesos or US$28
30 Oct – 2 Nov: Lucha Libre Dia de Muertos Show
On the weekend leading up to 2 Nov, there are special Dia de Muertos fights at Arena Mexico. The ring gets transformed into the “Templo Mayor de Lucha Libre” with all the wrestlers in disguise.
This is a great opportunity to catch a Lucha Libre show while in Mexico City. We’re not wrestling fans, but even my 6-year-old daughter enjoyed the show! Tickets are cheap (less than US$10), and we got them at the ticket booth. Book them in advance to ensure availability.
When: 7.30pm and 8.30pm (Sunday shows are family-friendly)
Where: Arena Mexico
Cost: From 150 pesos
**31 Oct: Parade in the Historic Center**
The biggest event during Day of the Dead in Mexico City is the desfile or parade. Catrinas with oversized skull heads, brightly colored alebrijes (spirit animals), and massive floats take to the streets of the historic center.
It’s no secret that the Day of the Dead parade is not an old tradition — it began only in 2016, and said to have been inspired by the James Bond film, Spectre. This year’s parade saw over 1 million spectators, according to the local news. If you want a front row view, definitely come and stake out a spot 2 hours early! Follow this page to get updates of next year’s parade.
Route: Zócalo -> Avenida Plaza de la Constitución -> Calle 5 de May -> Avenida Hidalgo -> Paseo de la Reforma -> Campo Marte
When: 12 to 5pm
Where: Zocalo to Paseo de la Reforma
Cost: Free
Best Rooftop Views in Historic Center
If crowded places scare you, there are actually quite a few rooftop restaurants in the historic center that offer amazing views of the parade. These rooftop restaurants get fully booked for Dia de Muertos, so be sure to call and reserve a table months in advance.
- Balcon de Zocalo — A stylish rooftop restaurant overlooking the Zocalo with spectacular views over the main square.
- Puro Corazon — One of the best traditional restaurants in the historic center, also overlooking the Zocalo.
- La Casa de las Sirenas Facing the Zocalo and Templo Mayor, this gorgeous rooftop restaurant is located in a a 16th-century building with an old-world ambiance.
- Terraza Cha Cha Cha — Overlooking the Revolution Monument, this chic rooftop bar dishes up contemporary Mexican dishes and well crafted cocktails.
- Cityzen Rooftop Kitchen — An upscale rooftop restaurant boasting unparalleled views of the Paseo de la Reforma, serving French and Mexican cuisine.
- Sears Rooftop Cafe — Best view over the Palacio de Bellas Artes, where you can see a bit of the parade. They don’t take reservations. We came here after the parade and waited only 20 minutes to get a table.
31 Oct: Mega Procesion de las Catrinas
In past years, there would be a massive procession of the Catrinas, a separate event from the official parade. Anyone can actually participate and march along the Paseo de la Reforma. This year, the procession was replaced by a Catrina-themed photography exposition along Av Paseo de la Reforma on Oct 31, coinciding with Mexico City’s Day of the Dead Parade.
When: 12 to 8pm
Where: Paseo de la Reforma
Cost: Free
31 Oct – 2 Nov: Teopankali Night Walk in Bosque Chapultepec
There’s also a night march, or recorrido nocturno, in the lush city park, Bosque Chapultepec. Sadly we missed this but we did see the ofrenda in the day and it was gorgeous! There are also museums and castles to visit here, check out my full list of things to do in Mexico City.
The walk covers around 1.3km — be sure to bring a jacket as it can be cold at night. It starts at the Puerta de Leones, and continues along the Calzada de la Juventud Heroica, which is decorated with giant skulls and ofrendas.
When: 7 to 10pm
Where: Puerta de Leones, Bosque Chapultepec
Cost: Free
1 – 2 Nov: Cemetery Visits
On the last two days of the Dia de Muertos, you’ll find the cemeteries at their most festive as families gather to celebrate the dead. They’ll often decorate the panteon (cemetery) with marigold flowers, candles, and food — sometimes they play music, enjoy food and drinks here all through the night.
Of all the cemeteries in Mexico City, the most famous one for Dia de Muertos rituals is San Andres Mixquic. Mixquic has the largest Day of the Dead celebrations and it attracts thousands of visitors each year. It’s said that Mixquic was the inspiration behind the cemetery in the movie, Coco.
However, it takes around 2 hours to get to Mixquic from Mexico City. And with the huge crowds that pour into Mixquic, it can be very difficult to get an Uber to return to Mexico City. The most convenient way to get there is to join a tour (scroll down for details).
Things to Note about Cemetery Visits
In 2021, many of the cemeteries in Mexico City were opened for limited time only or closed completely, to prevent crowding. The Mixquic cemetery only allowed visitors at 80% capacity. We visited Panteon San Fernando at 6pm and it was already closed due to overcrowding.
Try to get to the cemetery before 6pm. The later in the evening it gets, the more crowded the graveyard gets. Also getting an Uber home will be more difficult and more expensive. I’ll update this post with cemeteries that will be open in 2022.
It’s important to remember that you’re at a burial site. Even though the atmosphere in the cemeteries are lively and festive, remember to be respectful. Don’t touch any of the graves or displays, and don’t sit on them.
Book a Day of the Dead Tour
If you’d like to visit a cemetery but want to do so with a guide, I recommend taking these tours. They will take care of the logistics and give you a great overview of Dia de Muertos traditions.
- 1 Nov: Day of the Dead Tour in Mexico City — This tour brings you to a cemetery (not Mixquic) and takes you on a trajinera (gondola) through the Xochimilco canals.
- 2 Nov:
