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To most of the world, Ethiopia is practically synonymous to famine and drought.
Granted, the famine that plagued Ethiopia between 1970s and 80s killed over a million people. It was one of the worst disasters in the world and millions of dollars were poured in from other countries in the form of aid and relief.
But that was more than 30 years ago and Ethiopia has since recovered from the disaster. Today’s Ethiopia is very different from what most of us imagine. Its capital city of Addis Ababa in particular has developed tremendously along with the modern world. Ethiopia has become one of the fastest-growing economies in the world and it’s welcoming tourists again.
My Ethiopia Travel Guide 2020
Why You Should Visit Ethiopia
One thing is for sure, Ethiopia is truly unique — culturally, historically and scenically. I have traveled to 20 countries in Africa and can safely say this country is unlike any other on the continent.
Ethiopia is an extremely mountainous country and boasts highlands rather than the vast savannas that are often associated with Africa. Plus, Ethiopia is so diverse that any Ethiopia itinerary will pack in a myriad of experiences, from hiking adventures and visits to tribal villages to history lessons at ancient sites.
Ethiopians like to think they are different from the rest because they are the only country in Africa to have successfully fought off colonisation. It is true that they have retained a strong sense of identity and traditions, which have made them very proud and patriotic people.
Best Times for Ethiopia Travel
It is possible to visit Ethiopia anytime of the year — but the best time to visit is from mid-October to January, when the rains have subsided and the countryside is still lush and green. I traveled Ethiopia in January and the temperatures were mild, with sunny days and cool nights.
It is best to avoid traveling Ethiopia during the rainy season, which falls in the summer months (June to August). During this period, roads in the mountains can get flooded and hiking trails may become too slippery.
Many people (including myself) time their trips to Ethiopia to coincide with religious festivals. Here are the biggest festivals of the year, in order of importance in Ethiopia:
- Genna — The biggest festival of the year is equivalent to the Ethiopian Christmas, which falls on 7th January. It marks the end of a 40-day fast, and is celebrated by feasting with the family. You’ll find the biggest celebrations in Lalibela.
- Timkat — The Ethiopian Epiphany is the second biggest festival and it falls on 19th January. The replica of Ark of Covenant is removed from every church in town and paraded around by priests dressed in colorful robes. The biggest celebrations are found in Gonder (Read about my experience celebrating Timkat in Ethiopia).
- Meskel — This is the country’s most colorful festival, and it falls on 27 September. It’s celebrated by massive cross-topped bonfires and elaborately dressed clergy.
How to Get to Ethiopia
Addis Ababa Bole International Airport is a major hub in Africa, and the national carrier (Ethiopian Airlines) is one of the best airlines in Africa, connecting Addis Ababa to many parts of the world. They fly direct from many major destinations including London, Singapore and Washington D.C.
Flights from most major cities in Europe to Addis Ababa cost from around 400euros or US$550 return. They’re at their lowest these days, and the cheapest flights are offered by Turkish Airlines. I flew from Malaga, Spain via Istanbul to Addis on Turkish Airlines for 440 euros return. Flights from London to Addis Ababa are as cheap as 380 euros return.
If you’re traveling to Ethiopia from US, flights from New York to Addis Ababa generally cost around US$1000 return with one stopover.
Find Cheap Flights to Addis Ababa
Travel Visa for Ethiopia
In recent years, it has become very easy to travel to Ethiopia thanks to the new evisa system. It is now possible for citizens of all nationalities to get an Ethiopia evisa online.
A single-entry evisa that lasts for 30 days cost US$52, while an evisa that lasts 90 days costs $72. The processing time is 3 days.
All you need is a passport photo and your passport that is valid for 6 months. This is the official government website.
How to Get Around Ethiopia
By Air
Ethiopia is an extremely mountainous country. Many of its major sights lie on the central plateau and getting anywhere in the region can be a challenging task on its less-than-desirable roads or unpaved mountain dirt tracks. While the Chinese government is building new roads at lightning speed in Ethiopia, many of its roads remain in terrible conditions.
The easiest (and most comfortable) way to get around Ethiopia is by plane. Ethiopian Airlines operate domestic flights all over the country, flying to interesting destinations like Lalibela, Gonder, Bahir Dar and Arba Minch (Omo Valley).
Flights are usually quite affordable (less than US$100 each way), especially if you book them only when you arrive in Ethiopia from a local agent or Ethiopian Airlines office. You’ll also get a considerable discount on domestic flights if you flew Ethiopian Airlines from your home country to Ethiopia.
Search for Domestic Flights in Ethiopia
By Bus
Traveling Ethiopia by road leaves much to be desired and is recommended only to adventurous travelers who are prepared to explore Ethiopia at its own erratic pace. Bus travel is very cheap, and luxury buses are actually affordable and comfortable.
There are two main luxury bus operators: Selam Bus and Sky Bus. Their buses have comfortable seating, air conditioning, experienced drivers and a fair safety record. Using Addis Ababa as a hub, both companies cover a limited network that includes Bahir Dar, Gondar, Dessie, Harar, Dire Dawa and Hawassa. Unlike most other buses, seats can be booked the day before you travel.
Is it Safe to Travel Ethiopia?
Safety is often the biggest concern for those thinking of traveling to Ethiopia. It is true that the country has been plagued by civil unrest and unpredictable anti-government protests since November 2015.
My friend who came with me on this trip to Ethiopia was hesitant at first, as her Ethiopian friend advised her not to travel Ethiopia because of the potential danger. The US travel advisory warns its citizens against traveling there — while that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t visit Ethiopia, I would recommend exercising caution when visiting.
That said, I felt completely safe during our Ethiopia trip and there was no hint of instability. I did however travel with a local tour operator, Aone Ethiopia Travel, and we had a guide most of the time. While in towns like Lalibela and Gonder, we encountered street kids and aggressive “guides”, but that was about the only negative experience we had.
Travel Independently or on a Guided Tour?
Ethiopia’s poorly developed infrastructure and remote mountainous attractions make any trip here an adventure. Traveling independently in Ethiopia can be challenging and only recommended for those who have experience traveling in Africa.
I traveled Ethiopia on a private tour with Aone Ethiopia Travel, but I don’t recommend them as the tour was not well organised. If you are looking for something more affordable, I would recommend traveling in a group with G Adventures.
They are a small-group adventure tour operator and I have traveled with them many times (to Antarctica, Brazil, Mongolia etc). Their 10-Day Discover Ethiopia tour is reasonably priced and their Ethiopia itinerary covers the best of Ethiopia.
How Much Time to Travel Ethiopia?
Ethiopia is a big country — there is an incredible amount of things to see in Ethiopia and distances are long. We packed in as much as possible in our 2-week Ethiopia itinerary and still barely scratched the surface.
I explored the major sites like Lalibela and Simien Mountains, but didn’t get to visit the famous Aksum, Omo Valley and the Danakil Depression. Those areas look impressive and definitely worth visiting if you have the time.
I would recommend a minimum of 3 weeks to travel Ethiopia, and even longer if possible. Ethiopia is a truly spectacular country, and every region has its own star attraction.
My 2-Week Ethiopia Itinerary
- Days 1-2: Addis Ababa
- Days 3-4: Guassa Conservation Area
- Days 5- 7: Lalibela
- Days 8-10: Gonder
- Days 11-13: Bahir Dar and Lake Tana
- Day 14: Fly back to Addis Ababa
Best Things to Do in Ethiopia
Get an Introduction to Ethiopia in Addis Ababa
The country’s capital, Addis Ababa, makes a great introduction to modern Ethiopia with its collection of museums and markets. The most important sight in Addis Ababa has to be the National Museum of Ethiopia, home to the remains of Lucy (first human being). Other interesting places to visit include Addis Mercato and Holy Trinity Cathedral, as well as the nearby Entoto Mountain for a panorama of the city.
Visit the Rock Churches of Lalibela
If there’s only one place you can visit in Ethiopia, make it Lalibela. Perched at an altitude of 2,630m, the hilly town is home to 13 rock-hewn churches built in the 12th century. Carved right out of balsatic scoria volcanic rocks, these 900-year-old churches were meticulously sculpted below ground level and immaculately preserved until they were discovered by a Portuguese priest in 1520.
Today, the World Heritage Site is highly protected by UNESCO. What set the churches here apart from other monuments like Petra is that they are still active and fully-functioning. Rise early and visit at dawn to see pilgrims and priests pray and chant in a hypnotizing and spiritual setting. The Lalibela rock churches were easily my favorite place to visit in Ethiopia.
Explore the Ancient Capital of Gonder
Lauded as the Camelot of Africa, this ancient capital is the stuff of legends, thanks to its treasure trove of 16th century palaces, lavish castles, and sprawling gardens. It is also home to one of the most well preserved churches in Ethiopia that feature impressive wall art.
I was very privileged to be in Gonder for the annual Timkat festival, the Ethiopian Epiphany Day. Locals put on their best traditional costume and reenact the baptism of Jesus Christ (by jumping into the city’s bath). Gonder is known for putting on the biggest Timkat celebrations in the country.
Hike in Simien Mountains National Park
With some of Ethiopia’s highest peaks, the Simien Mountains pack quite a punch when it comes to lofty landscapes. You can spend weeks trekking here and you still won’t see everything in the national park. We woke up very early for a short hike and saw hundreds of gelada monkeys all around us. If you are an avid hiker, make sure to reserve a few days in your Ethiopia itinerary to go hiking around the mountaintop monsteries in Simien Mountains.
Visit Rural Villages in Guassa Conservation area
Another highlight of my trip to Ethiopia, the largely unknown Guassa Conservation area is a rugged, rural area not too far from Addis Ababa. This 98-square-km conservation area has been protected by the locally community since the 17th century.
It is an excellent area to spot endemic wildlife like the Gelada baboons and the Ethiopian wolf, as well as to immerse in remote local villages that will warmly welcome you. We stayed overnight at a simple hut and went on a long hike down to the bottom of the valley to visit a local village. It was a humbling experience and the landscape was absolutely mindblowing.
See the Monasteries of Lake Tana
Ethiopia’s largest lake (and Africa’s third largest) has a peaceful and serene setting that is worth visiting to escape from the dusty towns. Its waters are inhabited by small pods of hippopotamus, hundreds of endemic species of birds; and its shores are dotted with over 30 monasteries, some of which feature the best mural art in Ethiopia.
Visit the Ancient Ruins of Aksum
Situated in the highlands of northern Ethiopia, Aksum marks the location of the heart of ancient Ethiopia, when the Kingdom of Aksum was the most powerful state in the region. The massive ruins, dating from between the 1st and the 13th century A.D., include monolithic obelisks, giant stelae, royal tombs and the ruins of ancient castles. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Be sure to include this in your Ethiopia itinerary if you are a history buff.
Meet the Tribes of Omo Valley
In the remote vast plains of southern Ethiopia, Omo Valley is home to many tribal villages with interesting traditions and culture. Each of the villages has their own customs and language and have lived basically the same lifestyle for centuries.
The Mursi and Hamar are proud people who adorn themselves in unusual body art and jewellery and cattle are vital to their existence. They are also very territorial and will fiercely defend their land and way of life. Even though the region is remote, many tour companies operate tours to the Lower Omo Valley and several of its villages. Just be prepared for a pricey and challenging trip – both logistically and physically.
Get Blown Away at the Danakil Depression
The Danakil Depression overlaps the borders of Eritrea and Djibouti and is part of the great East African Rift Valley. The climate is unforgiving and widely considered the hottest (average temp of 94F), driest (4 – 8 inches of annual rainfall) and lowest spot (400 feet below sea level) on the planet. Having said all that, this is definitely home to some of the world’s most unearthly landscapes.
The lava lake at Erta Ale is one of only six lava lakes on Earth and will leave you in awe. The multi-colored hydrothermal bubbling lakes and great salt pans will amaze you and have you question if you are still on Planet Earth.
Where to Stay in Ethiopia
Addis Ababa: Hotel Lobelia
Hotel Lobelia was the best place we stayed at in Ethiopia. It’s located just a 5-minute drive from the airport, in the up-and-coming Bole district that’s packed with restaurants and bars. The hotel has comfortable and spacious rooms, and great WiFi and a good breakfast spread. They also provide free airport transfer to the hotel. Check the latest prices here.
Guassa Conservation Area: Guassa Community Lodge
This is a simple, rustic lodge in the middle of the protected area. It feels like the middle of nowhere here and is great for getting disconnected and being deep in nature. You’ll have to bring your own food to cook and don’t expect any heating (it gets extremely cold at night!). Find more info on the conservation area website.
Lalibela: Seven Olives Hotel
A landmark hotel in Lalibela, this is the oldest and most established hotel in town. While it needs some serious renovation work, it has a leafy garden with panoramic views of town and it’s located right in the centre of town, just a 5-minute walk from the churches.
Gonder: Queen Taytu Guesthouse
This is a really cheap hostel just minutes from Gonder’s historical centre. It’s quite basic, but gives a run for your money due to its great location and not-too-scruffy rooms. Book here.
Bahir Dar/Lake Tana: Papyrus Hotel
This beachfront hotel was the second best place we stayed at. It feels like a fancy beach resort that needs some sprucing up, but otherwise rooms are spacious, beds are really big and luxurious, and there’s even a swimming pool in the centre of the resort. Check the latest rates.
What to Eat in Ethiopia
Before you dismiss the idea of having good food in a country that was once affected by famine, think again. You’ll be surprised to learn that Ethiopian food – much like other aspects of its culture – is some of the most diverse in Africa. It is absolutely unique and distinctive (the only place in the world that shares Ethiopian food culture is its next door neighbor, Eritrea.)
The country’s main staple is injera, an ubiquitous pancake that is eaten for every meal all over Ethiopia. It is spread out on a large flat basket and simply topped with mounds of spicy meat stews, colorful vegetable curries and even raw cubes of beef. Originally made from tef (indigenous Ethiopian cereal), the injera may taste tangy, bitter and even slightly sour for the first-time taster — but it will grow on you.
Injera is often eaten with wat, an Ethiopian version of curry which can be very spicy. Chicken curry (doro wat) is known as the national dish, and it’s often eaten on religious festivals. Sheep curry (beg wat) is the most common, followed by beef (bere wat). Read my guide on Ethiopian food to learn what and where to eat!
Cost of Travel in Ethiopia
Traveling Ethiopia isn’t exactly cheap — especially if you want to explore the remote regions. Most people, including myself, opt for a guided tour in Ethiopia as that is the best way to cover less-conventional paths in a shorter time.
I traveled with Aone Ethiopia and the 14-day Ethiopia itinerary costs around US$2150 per person. That included all our accommodation (in budget hotels) and transportation in 4×4 vehicle and minivan. Our meals and domestic flights were not included.
I would definitely travel Ethiopia independently the next time I visit. It is possible to travel Ethiopia on a budget if you stay at guesthouses. A budget hotel in Ethiopia usually costs US$30-50 per night (don’t expect high standards), and food is cheap at around US$2 to 5 per meal in a local eatery or restaurant. A ride on the local bus is affordable, at around US$10 for a 4-hour journey.
Internet and Data in Ethiopia
Internet connection in Ethiopia has improved tremendously in recent years. You can get pretty good WiFi in most hotels and even guesthouses. Addis Ababa International Airport and other airports in Ethiopia actually offer free and relatively fast WiFi.
3G data connection in Addis Ababa works quite well, though connections are patchy once you leave the capital city.Getting a local SIM is cheap and easy. There is only one telco service provider, which is Ethio Telecom. You can get a SIM card for 30 birr in any Ethio Telecom shop. Make sure to get your SIM registered (required by the government here) and your personal hotspot established.
As well as blocking 3G networks, the Ethiopia government also regularly blocks social media channels. Be sure to get a VPN for Ethiopia travel.
People and Language of Ethiopia
Eritrea is a multi-ethnic country, with nine ethnic groups that make up its population of 5 million people. Eritrea is made up of Muslims and Orthodox Christians, and they have always lived side by side with one another.
Ethiopia has a highly diverse population of people. The Tigray, Oromo, Somali and Amhara people make up Ethiopia’s population but there are more than 80 different ethnic groups represented. Some of these ethnicities have as few as 10,000 people.
Amharic is the official language of Ethiopia, but English is also widely spoken in Ethiopia. Learn some basic words like “selam
tena jistilign” (hello!) and “ameseginalew” (thank you!) and locals really appreciate it!
What to Pack for Ethiopia
Due to the mountainous terrain, it gets pretty cold in some parts of Ethiopia during the winter months (November to February). But temperatures are mild, reaching around 73°F (23°C) in the day and 42°F (6°C) at night. This number can rise past 30°C on the lowland fringes of eastern, southern and western Ethiopia.
Bring layers regardless of the time you’re visiting Ethiopia. If you’re visiting Ethiopia in summer, t-shirts and long pants will suffice. For those visiting in winter, just bring a light jacket for the chilly nights. Don’t forget your sunscreen and hat as the sun in mountainous Ethiopia can be very strong. During my visit in January, I had on my thick winter jacket on most days.
Many Ethiopian Christian Orthodox ladies (especially in the villages) cover their hair with a white linen cloth. They are not very conservative and do not expect foreigners to cover up. To show some respect and fit in, try to cover your shoulders and knees.
Have I answered all your questions on Ethiopia travel? Let me know in the comments field below and I will be more than happy to help you out! I hope this article has inspired you to plan your own Ethiopia itinerary!
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