This is the Sixth Chapter of a series of posts about ‘how I got Leh’d’. In this series, I have covered everything related to my Stok Kangri Trek Expedition. Just to let you know that Stok Kangri is the highest trek-able peak in India. In a series of articles, I have covered EVERY SINGLE ASPECT from planning to mapping to packing your rucksack and obviously the entire trekking experience.
This chapter is about returning from the summit after I successfully scaled the highest trekkable peak in India – Stok Kangri.
A quick recap: if you have been reading my Leh-Ladakh stories, by now you know the struggles that I have faced to reach the Stok Kangri base camp. In a series of travelogues, I have penned down how I had planned to reach Leh (episode 1) and how I ended up reaching Leh (episode 2). On one hand, I was suffering from AMS and on the other, I was super excited about the Stok Kangri Trek. After 2 days of acclimatization in Leh (we effectively got only one), we started the trek (episode 3) on the 3rd day and trekked from Stok Village (3497 m) to Mankarmo via Chang Ma (3988 m). Due to AMS, my body was severely low in oxygen content, but my spirits were always high! And it was this mental strength that empowered me to overcome all adversities, and my oxygen content magically shot up after the acclimatization trek at the Stok Kangri base camp (episode 4). Then, suddenly, nature started to play a spoilsport. But, I was determined to scale the Stok Kangri Summit..! Now it was time to climb down from the peak. Just like doing any other exciting journey, we always forget to preserve energy for the return.
From hopes to slopes to ropes
While coming downhill I slipped twice when we were walking on the narrow traverses (I was better off without ropes :P). Basically my legs were too tired but it was fun hanging from the mountain for some time. It backfired when I had to use double the energy to climb up. When I slipped the second time the guide asked me if it was my first trek in a condescending manner but when I said yes he looked at me with a very surprised expression while I just hung on the slope.
Once we crossed the traverses we reached the spot where I had left Vivek. The shoulder of the peak, from which dropped a long slope till the foothill of that peak. The guide told me his work was done and I would find Nawang waiting for me at the end of the slope. Then they showed me how to get there – by sliding on our backs and peddling with our limbs. It was such an amazingly fun experience that the dopamine and adrenaline took away all my stress. Facing just one obstacle (where my entire left leg got stuck in the snow and I had to dig it out), I reached the end and after walking for a few minutes saw Nawang and Vivek waiting for me.
Happy to reunite, but sad to return…
As I reunited with them Nawang thanked the other trekkers and then we set off on our way back to the base camp. Just before we were going to hit the glacier Nawang suggested we all eat something. We munched through whatever food we had and hydrated ourselves properly. I stole a last peek of the Stok Kangri peak (from so up close) and we came back to the base camp via the same route but this time while everything was visible in the daylight. At around 2:30 P.M. I entered the tent and Swiner was so happy and excited to share experiences. After that session (and watching all the pictures and videos together) we reconciled with the fact that leaving that place was going to be one of the toughest jobs we’ve ever had to do. But the things that suggested otherwise were internet, baths, home-cooked food and a flat surface.
In the evening Preet congratulated Ishaan, Swiner and me as the successful summit attempt got celebrated with a delicious and beautiful cake! Baked in a tent, at an altitude of almost 5000 m and by someone who has saved lives on Everest! Can it get any better? The way our trek operators took care of us and everything else was really commendable. Renok Adventures did a very good job and especially their food options are off the charts!!
Day 7: 11th July – The Nostalgia
Stok Kangri Base Camp (4968 m) to Leh via Stok (3497 m)
The next morning we woke up with a sense of accomplishment yet sadness drew on us. Our wet clothes had dried out and we were set to trek back to Stok. Preet said that if we felt like resting then we can camp at Chang Ma for the night. We left early and it was a very silent trek. Everyone was busy with themselves. Some may be reflecting, some maybe regretting and some even recapitulating. I just kept looking at the vast stretches of beautiful landscapes with immense gratitude for the artist who made it all. Taking occasional halts (climbing down is less stressful and we had gotten used to all kinds of stress and strain) we reached Chang Ma at around 1:30 P.M. We decide to just have lunch and keep moving until we reached Stok.
Our trek ended at around 4 P.M. and while Preet was clearing the official stuff at the check post and simultaneously trying to get us a car, Swiner got some snacks for us from the adjacent shop there. After a while, the car came and we all got inside it for our ride back to the guest house. All of us needed rest. I kept recalling glimpses from my experience as I watched the Stok Ranges drift away in the rear-view mirror as we drove towards Leh.
Swiner and I spent that evening exploring bike rentals for our plans to Khardung La. After talking to a few of them we finalised with “Ladakh on Wheels” and they charged 1500/- per day for a Royal Enfield Thunderbird 350CC(petrol excluded)and gave us helmets rent-free. Swiner is a fanatic for bikes and we rented the bike right then and went for a bullet drive in the night. There is just one main highway and one main market and the entire area is well equipped with direction boards so it was impossible to get lost even in the dark.
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