Without doubt, the best holiday I ever had was a tour around Iceland.   Not because it was the most scenically beautiful – that would be a toss-up between Norway and the northwest coast of Scotland.  Not because it had the best walking – that would probably be Switzerland.  And certainly not because it had the best weather.

What made Iceland so special for me was the sheer variety of weird geological phenomena and unique natural spectacles.  For me the Trip was full of ‘firsts’ and ‘biggest’ and in some cases ‘scariest’.  Every day brought genuinely awe-inspiring sights and experiences that were so different from anything I had experienced before.

Highlights

Here are some of the highlights, but there were many, many others:

• Seeing sperm whales from a tour boat, and orca from a hotel window.
• Straddling the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates in the Thingvellir National Park.
• Seeing very active, and sometimes scary, fumeroles for the first time (accompanied by the overwhelming stench of hydrogen sulphide!).
• Watching the Great Geysir erupt every few minutes, as we had dinner and breakfast in the adjacent hotel.
• Flying in a tiny 4-person plane to Heimaey in the Westman Islands where the ground still feels warm from recent volcanic activity.
• Walking among the vast, moss-covered lava fields and craters at Laki, the site of the Skafta Fires (one of the largest volcanic eruptions and lava flows in recorded history).
• Seeing the icebergs floating serenely in Jokulsarlon glacial lagoon.
• Crossing an impossible-looking glacial river in an off-road bus on the way to Thorsmork.
• Having a late evening stroll near the glacier at Skaftafell and hearing the creaks and plopping sounds as small chunks kept falling off.

I could mention so many more – incredible waterfalls, steaming fissures, black volcanic beaches, creaking glaciers, puffins, sea stacks…..

Young Landscapes That Look Old

There are many places in Iceland that look eerily prehistoric.  Strangely, though, they actually look this way because the land is so new!  Large areas are covered with relatively recent lava and ash.  Fast-flowing streams and glacial rivers continually change course, and can quickly cut deep channels through ashy substrates.  The rapidly changing land, together with the sometimes harsh climate, makes it difficult for plants to colonise.  The result is the desolate, other-worldly appearance that we now see.

A Tour Around the Route 1 Ring Road

A few years ago Matt and I hired a car at Keflavik Airport, and spent over three weeks exploring Iceland, including a circuit of the ring road (Route 1).  We stayed at several bases en route, before finishing with a couple of days in Reykavik.

Many tour companies offer self-drive itineraries.  Some suggest doing this round trip in under two weeks.  Whilst this would be exciting (and exhausting), we would not recommend doing the trip so quickly.  There is simply far too much to see.  Many of Iceland’s sights are way too special to be glimpsed briefly before you move on to the next destination.  You need time to appreciate and enjoy these unique and amazing places.

If time is limited, it would be far better to concentrate on one area.  Good examples would be Snaefellsnes, Lake Myvatn, or Skaftafell.  You could perhaps pick two or three places around these areas to use as bases.  This way you could explore in far more depth and at a relaxed pace, rather than having to rush away before you are ready because you need to keep to a tight schedule.

Snaefellsnes Peninsula

After collecting our hire-car at Keflavik, our first destination, a slight detour from Route 1, was the mystical Snaefellsnes Peninsula.  This was a comfortable drive of approximately two hours from the airport.  Soon after leaving the airport we were struck by what we thought was unattractive rubble beside long stretches of the road.  It took us a while to realise that this was actually lava!

On approaching the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, the Snaefellsjokull icecap gradually comes into view, hovering mystically above the surrounding land and sea.   A magical sight.   Our base on the Peninsula was Hellnar, staying in the simple but excellent Hotel Hellnar, which is proud of its ecological standards.  The hotel provides an excellent breakfast and dinner, and the comfortable bedrooms look straight out to sea.  One afternoon we clearly saw the distinctive black fins of a pod of orca (killer whales) out in the bay.

Peaceful Hellnar

Hellnar is idyllic and unspoilt – the perfect place to unwind and adapt to the Icelandic pace.  From the hotel you can stroll down to the beautiful stony beach where there is an unusual cave and lots of seabirds.  There is also a tiny cafe close to the beach which is renowned for its fish soup.

From Hellnar there is a short but very scenic footpath to the adjacent village of Arnarstapi.  The Hellnar to Arnarstapi path passes lava flows that have been sculpted into fantastic shapes by the constant crashing waves, and is definitely worth doing.  The coastline around here is exceptionally beautiful, with caves, cliffs, stone arches and seabird colonies.  The path is only around 2.5 km, but it will probably take about a couple of hours or so because there are so many photo opportunities on the way.

Olafsvik and Whale Watching

From Hellnar it is a short drive to Olafsvik, on the north of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula.  Olafsvik, another ideal base, is a pleasant fishing town with a good hotel (Hotel Olafsvik), and a folk museum, as well as a lovely waterfall which can be reached on foot from the town.

Olafsvik also offers whale watching trips, with an excellent chance of seeing orca and sperm whales as well as other whale species and dolphins.  Of course sightings can never be guaranteed, but even if you are unlucky it is worth the trip for the views of the coastline alone.  You need warm, windproof clothing, and be aware that the seas here can be very rough, so if you suffer from seasickness you may not enjoy it.

On our trip we did see a pod of sperm whales at the surface.  Although we didn’t get very close the size of the whales was still apparent and very impressive.

Stykkisholmur

Also on the north coast of Snaefellsnes is the town of Stykkisholmur, which is the largest town on the peninsula.  It is an attractively situated town, with a choice of hotels and restaurants. Stykkisholmur has a volcano museum, containing objects and art relating to eruptions.  It is also the starting point for the Baldur ferry to the Western Fjords, which stops at Flatey Island, and for boat trips to the islands in Breidafjordur Bay.  These are very scenic, and are home to numerous birds including white-tailed sea eagles.

Akureyri – Iceland’s Second Largest Town

From Hellnar, we drove along the north coast to Akureyri, which is Iceland’s second largest town.  This is quite a long drive, much of it on rough, unpaved roads, which is an adventure in itself.  You meet all nature of off-road vehicles when you drive in Iceland. Some of them hurtle past splattering your car with grit as they go.  No wonder car-hire is so expensive…..

How to get to Akureyri from Reykjavik

If you don’t have the time or inclination to drive, there are regular flights to Akureyri from Keflavik or Reykjavik domestic airport.  You can then hire a car at Akureyri, or rely on local buses, taxis and excursions.

Alternatively you can get a bus to Akureyri from the Mjodd bus terminal in Reykjavik.  There are one or two buses a day, and the journey takes approximately 6.5 hours.  (see here for timetables).

In the summer months you can also take the daily Gray Line tour bus which travels between Reykjavik and Akureyri via the Kjolur Highland route.  (This operates between mid-June and mid-September).  The trip is quite expensive (approx £130 one way), takes around 10.5 hours, and includes stops at Geysir and the Hveravellir Nature Reserve.

I have read reviews from people who complained about the length of the trip, and the very rough and uncomfortable roads.   But the chance to see the wild and inaccessible interior is the main reason people want to do the trip.  If it was on a paved road it would not be such an adventure.  Uncomfortable or not, it will definitely be part of my next itinerary!

We only spent one night in Akureyri but it is a very good base.  It has a good choice of hotels and restaurants and is a very pleasant town to stroll around.  There are many places that you can easily visit from here, including Grimsey Island, Hrisey Island and the Glerardalur Valley.  For more information see http://www.visitakureyri.is/en/home.

Godafoss

One sight that you have to see in this area is Godafoss.  In a country that is literally teeming with waterfalls, Godafoss is one of the most beautiful.

Husavik and Lake Myvatn

This whole area is fantastic!  Husavik is great for whale-watching trips.  Lake Myvatn  has an incredible variety of volcanic features as well as being serenely beautiful.   Ásbyrgi Canyon has some fantastic walks.  And Dettifoss, whilst not the prettiest, is possibly the most powerful waterfall in Europe.  You could easily spend an entire holiday here.

Kaldbaks-kot cottages

We spent several peaceful nights in a simple wood cabin at Kaldbakur near Husavik. (http://cottages.is/) Although the cabin was very basic, this is a great place to stay.  It is only a few minutes’ drive into Husavik for shops and restaurants, and other sites in the area are easily reached.  The evenings here were so tranquil, with abundant bird life, and the view spectacular.  If you don’t mind foregoing a comfortable hotel for a few nights I highly recommend staying here.

Whale-watching at Husavik

Husavik itself is an attractive town with a bustling harbour and several decent hotels and restaurants.

Several companies run whale-watching tours from the harbour, and there is also a whale museum.

Tour operators:

• Gentle Giants
• Husavik Adventures
• North Sailing
• Salka Whalewatching

On our trip we were not lucky enough to see whales, but we did see two lovely white-beaked dolphins.  Even if you don’t see whales, the tours are always exhilarating.  Take warm clothes, a camera, and binoculars.

Lake Myvatn and its Waterbirds

It is an easy drive from Husavik to Lake Myvatn.   If you would prefer to stay nearer to the lake Reykjahlid is a great base, with shops and accommodation.  There is so much to see here you will definitely want a few days!

You can drive right round the lake, a distance of approximately 37 km, stopping to see various sights on the way.  Lake Myvatn actually means ‘midge lake’.  This might not sound too appealing, but the midge and blackfly larvae support large wildfowl populations in the summer months.  Much of the northwest shore of the lake beyond the road is a conservation area to protect the breeding birds.

At Skutustadir on the south shore there are clusters of interesting pseudocraters, with paths and boardwalks for a closer look.

Hverfjall Volcanic Crater

Due east of Lake Myvatn is Hverfjall.  This impressive crater looks like a volcano should (unlike many of Iceland’s volcanoes which are fissures).  There is a carpark at the base, and from there a trail leads to the crater rim.  It is quite hard going, a bit like walking on ball bearings, but definitely worth it.  The crater is about 1km in diameter, and as you walk round there are fantastic views of the whole area.

Dimmuborgir Lava Formations

Just south of Hverfjall an absolute must is a walk around the bizarre lava formations at Dimmuborgir.  Here there are all manner of contorted towers, pillars, arches and caves, with marked trails around the site. A great way to spend an hour or two.

Krafla – Site of the Recent Krafla Fires

North east of Lake Myvatn  you can visit the Krafla area,  which is the site of the recent Krafla fires (1977 to 1984).  Here you can park near the Viti explosion crater.  Walking in the area is absolutely fascinating.  Recent lava is still steaming in places, and there are bubbling mud pools and steaming sulphurous vents.

Approaching Krafla and Viti you pass the Krafla Geothermal Power Station.  In addition to being photogenic, this has an informative visitor centre which is open daily from 10.00 am in summer.

Namaskard Geothermal Area

A little further east than Krafla along the Route 1 ring road is the Namaskard geothermal area, also known as Hverarond.

This is an amazing area of sulphurous mud pools and fumaroles which anyone interested in volcanic features will find fascinating.  There is a parking area and a marked trail with boardwalks.  Some of the pools are roped off, and for safety reasons you should stick to the marked route.  The whole site reeks of hydrogen sulphide, so be prepared!  There are gurgling mud pools, screeching high-pressure steam vents, and all manner of fumaroles.  Wonderful!