Tso moriri was supposed to be freezing cold, so bundled in layers we set out, breakfast done and armed with lunch.  The drive was across less spectacular mountains but ever so often we spotted wild asses grazing on grass that stood barely inches above the ground. Sheep, shepherd and sheep dogs dotted the mountains too. Over roads less traveled we drove picking our way over the dirt tracks. Now and then we had the company of other lonely vehicles. Check posts popped up now and then and we submitted our Inner line permits as they noted down the number of people traveling.

We crossed a small blue lake which we mistook for Tso moriri. Boards were far and few and asking people was more helpful. More driving over dirt tracks, a couple of wrong turns and a blue patch peeped out from behind mountains. Slowly the expanse grew bigger and bigger and turned a deep blue. It took the colours from the sky, applied physics on the light from the sun and sported greens, blues and greys. It shimmered and rippled basking in the sun. But a cold wind blew and we shivered under the layers of clothes. The whole afternoon lay in front of us and we dashed to the hotel for more protection.

Over hot noodles we chatted and then drove to the lake. The lake is fenced off as a sanctuary for birds. We stood shivering and watched the Prussian blue waters from far while only a few dared to climb down a narrow slope and reached its bank. A couple of bikers with cameras on their helmets parked their bikes and took pictures of the lake. They seem to be vlogging.  Very soon we sought the protection of the vehicle and the hotel.

No phone, no internet, no WiFi, no electricity after 11, leaky faucets is the norm here. Sleeping bundled in layers, gloves on, socks on under mountains of bedclothes is in. Hands freezing when it meets water is par for the course.

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