On October 4, last week, CHANEL presented its Spring Summer 2023 Ready-To-Wear show at the Grand Palais Ephémère in Paris, the last day of Fashion Week, closing the fashion month. The collection inspired by American actress Kristine Stewart who has been an ambassador for the French house since 2013 and is also the face of the Spring Summer 2023 collection. “Whether it’s her, or the other women I dress, I need to feel that they like the clothes anyway. But, among the people around me, she is the closest to Gabrielle Chanel, at least to my idea of her. She understands CHANEL, its clothes. And with her, it becomes even more modern. This collection, it’s also her” said creative director Virginie Viard.

Chanel opened its show with a black and white movie shown on the 360° cinema screen, realized by Dutch duo Inez & Vinoodh. Kristen Stewart was questioned by a reporter about the evolution of life. She stepped out of le Champo cinema ,“we are living in such an accelerated period of growth, it perks me up” she began. “It’s exhilarating and it puts pressure on us because our identities are these lifelong evolving art projects”. “It’s no longer important to know who you are or even what you want. I think it’s important to burn down your very best yesterday, every day, so you can start again.” She added. A morning meditation.

Who would have been better to write about Kristine Stewart? French Director Olivier Assayas wrote the note of the show. He has been working with the American actress for many years starting with Sils Maria, (Stewart won the César best actress), then Personal Shopper and one in preparation. “Anyone who has come across Kristen Stewart, by which I mean the person, not the actress or her films, knows how she stands with innate elegance and intelligence on the razor’s edge of her era, on both sides is the abyss, where she stands is allure”. Kristen Stewart, front row at the Chanel show wore a black and white cashmere pullover paired with a white and ecru tweed skirt from the Spring-Summer 2023 pre-collection, and the Premiere Edition Originale watch.

“The films we have seen, those that possess us and those we invent for ourselves, Marienbad, the Nouvelle Vague, the allure according to Gabrielle Chanel, Karl, the night, feathers, sequins, heels: I like it when things get mixed up,” observed Virginie Viard. In this show, Chanel pays tribute to the Cinema again; on the circular giant screen, a multitude of images from Alain Resnais’ movie Last Year in Marienbad (1961) are projected. At that time, Gabrielle Chanel was responsible for Delphine Seyrig’s dresses and selected Haute Couture looks. In 2018, a newly restored version of the movie made possible by Chanel was premiered at the Venice Film Festival and then released in cinemas.

A veritable variation of Allure: sophisticated, freedom of movement, and French elegance. Bows, boas, rhinestone boots, jersey worked like scales, white jacket with sequins, deconstructed prints, pastel tweeds, gold velvet panne dress, side slit black dress, flowing over the body; made of lace, like a flower, or light chiffon: the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2023 Ready-to-Wear collection is a collage.

Like the 40 meter entrance wall of the show where images taken by the duo Inez and Vinoodh from the past three years are interspersed with photos of Gabrielle Chanel smoking cigarettes and Delphine Seyrig in L’Année dernière à Marienbad.

On the catwalk covered with black sand, models walked, hands in their pockets. The curvy model Jill Kortleve wore black short and a cashmere top with daisy petals and Chanel logo. The ultimate piece of the next summer will be shorts.

Bermuda shorts, bouclé, gingham associated with tweed jackets, fishnet stockings or glitter ankle socks.

Black dresses, sparkling evening wear, fluid, transparent silk jumpsuits with the embroidered or printed double C.

Chanel tweed is reimagined in an array of sea green, apricot, pink through cropped skirt suits or flared dungarees. In this collection, Virginie Viard has created something for all tastes, for all looks. Paired with black jewelry, crystal belts or opera gloves adorned with bows. It’s the Allure of Chanel in 2023.