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How to Install an Edelbrock E-Force Supercharger on a S197 Ford Mustang

When choosing a Supercharger system for 2011–2014 Mustangs, ease of installation can be a major factor. Even though the S197 chassis has more real estate available under the hood than its SN-95 predecessor, finding space for a centrifugal supercharger or turbocharger(s) can be challeng­ing. Oftentimes, other components need to be modified or relocated to accommodate the power adder. In contrast, the positive-displacement supercharger systems on the market occupy space vacated by the intake manifold, which presents fewer pack­aging hurdles.

The Edelbrock E-Force Stage 1 supercharger system for 2011–2014 Mustang GTs (part number 1588) is a complete bolt-on supercharger system. It includes everything needed for a thorough installation: the super¬charger, plumbing, hardware, OBD-II flash tuner, 47-lb/hr fuel injectors, an intercooler heat exchanger system, and detailed instructions and documentation in a handy binder.


This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, FORD MUSTANG 2011–14: HOW TO BUILD & MODIFY. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:

LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS BOOK HERE


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The Edelbrock E-Force supercharger inte¬grates the supercharger, intercooler, and manifold into one unit. It is centered around an Eaton Gen VI 2300 TVS rotating assembly with four-lobe, 160-degree twisted rotors. The short, front-feed arrangement eliminates the long, torturous intake path of rear-feed super¬chargers or a jack shaft to drive the blower.

Before beginning the instal¬lation, we used the provided OBD-II flash tool to gather some required vehicle information and send it off to Edelbrock. Edelbrock emailed us a tune file that we loaded into this 2012 Mustang GT using the flash tool. (Doing this step first minimizes downtime after the under-hood work is complete.)

When viewing the Edelbrock E-force supercharger from the bottom, you can see the blower housing and how it sits below the intake manifold flange.

The rear view shows the intercooler housing and the long intake runners that maximize torque (runner length impacts torque even in supercharged applications).

Additionally, complete kits that are 50-state legal offer further peace of mind and convenience in that they include the necessary computer tuning and fuel system upgrades. Edelbrock’s E-Force Supercharger for 2011–2014 Mustangs is one such kit. It’s pretty clear that Edelbrock did its homework. The instructions are very thorough, the components are beautifully manufactured, and permanent modifications to the vehicle are few and minor. It’s a turnkey package that doesn’t require a trip to the auto parts store or the tuner to complete. Edelbrock even includes the necessary drill bit and tap. To demonstrate the benefits of such a kit, we installed Edelbrock’s Stage 1 supercharger kit (part number 1588) on a 2012 Mus-tang GT. We only needed basic hand tools and a couple of things that some installers may not have:

  • Right-angle drill
  • 11/8-inch hole saw
  • Spark-plug gapping tool
  • Yellow coolant (for supercharger intercooler)

Installing a supercharger system

With the car supported on jack stands, remove the bottom radiator close-out panel.

Next, remove the front half of each inner wheel housing.

Then, after removing the necessary hardware, carefully pry the front bumper cover away from the fender.

After releasing the front bumper cover from the header panel, slide the bumper cover away from the car.

While the car is in the air, drain the coolant into a clean bucket if you intend to reuse it later.

After removing the intake manifold, cover the intake ports with tape. (To see a detailed rundown of how to remove the factory intake manifold, refer to the procedure outlined in Chapter 6.)

Next, use a panel puller to remove the foam bumper filler.

Remove both radiator defl ector panels and the cold-air intake duct on the driver’s side.

With wood blocks supporting the air-conditioning condenser, remove the four bolts that fasten the condenser to the radiator.

Next, slide the Edelbrock intercooler heat exchanger into position ahead of the air-conditioning condenser and fasten it using the OEM condenser bolts.

Assemble the intercooler pump as shown, and mount it behind the bumper using the supplied hardware.

Then, connect the pump’s output hose to the intercooler heat exchanger using the supplied spring clamps.

Use a 11/8-inch hole saw to drill a clearance hole in the passenger-side radiator deflector for the intercooler pump inlet hose.

14 Here’s the finished intercooler pump installation.

Modify the driver-side radiator defl ector to clear for the intercooler heat exchanger’s outlet tubing.

Next, turn your attention to installing the tensioner bracket. First, remove the timing cover fasteners as indicated in the instructions.

Then, use a spacer and adjust the length of the drill bit the required depths as indicated in the instructions.

Using a right-angle drill and the included drill bit, enlarge the holes on the timing cover before tapping.

Use the provided tap to cut the necessary M8 x 1.25 threads into the timing cover. (Note: a short 1/4-inch extension was used here so that the tap handle cleared the water-pump pulley.)

After bolting the bracket to the timing cover, install the supplied idlers and tensioner.

On the other side of the engi

The tensioner was replaced with an idler pulley that attached to this cast bracket that Edelbrock supplies.


This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, FORD MUSTANG 2011–14: HOW TO BUILD & MODIFY. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:

LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS BOOK HERE


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Please feel free to share this post on Facebook Groups or Forums/Blogs you read. You can use the social sharing buttons to the left, or copy and paste the website link: https://www.diyford.com/how-to-install-an-edelbrock-e-force-supercharger-on-a-s197-ford-mustang//strong>


To clear the supercharger, bend the bleed tube at the top of the driver’s side head slightly outward with a deep 10-mm socket.

Remove and gap all the spark plugs to 0.035 inch.

Install the intercooler wiring harness by attaching the power to the under-hood fuse box and the ground to the radiator support, and tee into the wiring harness at the purge valve. The fuse-box ground is also relocated to make room for the intercooler reservoir.

The fuel injectors will interfere with some of the harness anchor tabs on the cam covers, so you can trim them with an air saw.

These are the four tabs that were trimmed.

Clean and transfer the intake manifold seals from the factory intake manifold to the supercharger.

The supercharger is heavy, so enlist an extra pair of hands to help lower it into position on the engine.

Once you are sure that the supercharger is lined up on the heads, install and torque the supplied bolts following the sequence and specifi cations in the instructions.

Prep the fuel rails by installing the supplied hardware, plumbing adapters, and 47-lb/hr injectors.

After lubricating the fuel-injector O-rings, press the fuel rails into place and install the supplied fuel crossover hose.

Using a breaker bar on the belt tensioner, install the supplied serpentine belt. The Edelbrock super- charger is driven by the accessory drive system and not a separate crank pulley.

We scavenged the 90-degree brake booster fi tting from the factory brake booster hose and combined it with the supplied hoses and clamps to connect the brake booster to the supercharger inlet.

Then, transfer the purge valve from the factory intake manifold to the Edelbrock supercharger.

Using a sharp utility knife, carefully slit and separate the purge-valve fi tting from the factory purge valve and use the supplied hose to hook up the fuel tank vent to the purge valve.

Interestingly, the driver-side PCV hose is reused and transferred to the passenger’s side.

Next, transfer the factory throttle body from the factory manifold to the Edelbrock supercharger inlet.

Then, install the intercooler reservoir and plumbing using the supplied hoses and clamps.

Next, attach the supplied silicone inlet elbow to the factory mass air meter/air box and connect it to the throttle body.

With the OEM air box installed, attach the driver-side intercooler hose to the supercharger

The air-temperature sensor is relocated from the MAF sensor to the top of the intake manifold, so Edelbrock includes a wiring harness for this. One end attaches to the air-temperature sensor.

The other end tees in between the MAF sensor and the MAF sensor connector next to the air box.

We plugged the bottom fitting on the elbow (it was not used on our manual-transmission car) and connected the supplied PCV tube to the valve cover and intake elbow.

Close the radiator drain petcock, reinstall the hoses and reservoir, and refill the cooling system.

Using fresh coolant, fill the intercooler system and turn the key to Run to turn on the pump and bleed the system of air.

To make sure our dirty paper air filter wasn’t choking our Edelbrock Supercharger, we installed an AFE filter (part number 30-80179). Note the unique shape of the AFE fi lter that increases surface area similar to a conical fi lter.

The Edelbrock E-Force Stage 1 fits perfectly (visually and physically) in the engine compart¬ment of this 2012 Mustang GT. The supercharger fits under this Boss 302 strut tower brace as well!

While we expected solid gains, what we didn’t expect was the boost curve. Rather than starting strong and running out of steam like a typical Roots blower, the Eaton 2300 TVS rotors in the Edelbrock supercharger build boost as the revs climb, starting from a little under 5 psi and fin¬ishing at 7 psi. At this boost level, the Edelbrock blower is barely breaking a sweat.

Our baseline (stock engine with Hooker 1¾-inch long-tube headers and 3-inch exhaust system) made 366 hp and 349 ft-lbs of torque on Boost Addicts’ Mustang dynamometer. The Coyote loved the Edelbrock boost, putting 452 hp and 415 ft-lbs of torque to the wheels. That’s a solid 86 hp and 66 ft-lbs of torque improvement over the baseline. The force-fed Coyote never makes less than 350 ft-lbs from 2,800 rpm to redline. That’s what we call a fat torque curve!

Written by Wes Duenkel and Posted with Permission of CarTechBooks

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