Arunachal Pradesh Trip (9-20 March 2023)

After a lot of ifs and buts, this time caused by my health issues at last moment (acute throat infection leading to fever) which even threatened to cancel our programme again this time (in 2015 also, our Arunachal trip was cancelled at last moment due to some tragedy in close family), finally I decided to not give a miss this time to my off-beat Arunachal Trip which has been planned with so much painstaking efforts as it involved lots of logistics (arranging accommodation including in Circuit house, cab, air tickets, managing my court calender etc.). Thanks to my friend posted in Arunachal Pradesh government, we managed to book accommodation at various Circuit houses and also got permit to visit Namdapha Park as well as permit to visit Pangsu Pass (India-Myanmar border).

This time, we had planned an off-beat tour of Arunachal Pradesh at places, where not many tourists go, perhaps due to lack of accommodation, hotels and other facilities there or due to scant information available about such facilities available here. We planned to cover Jairmapur (1 night), Namdapha (2 nights), Namsai (1 night), Roing (2 nights), Aalo (1 night), Pasighat (1 night),  Ziro (2 nights) and Ita Nagar (1 night). These places are scattered over 5- 6 districts of Arunachal like Jairampur and Namdapha in Changlang district, Namsai in Namsai district, Roing in Lower Dibang Valley, Aalo in West Siang District, Pasighat in East Siang District, Daporijo in Upper Subansiri District, Ziro in Lower Subansiri district and Itanagar in Papum Pare district. We were interested in experiencing the joy of flying out from first airport of Arunachal Pradesh at Itanagar, which had opened only recently in November 2022. So, we planned to enter Arunachal via Dibrugarh (Assam) and exit via Itanagar (Arunachal), and booked our air tickets accordingly.

We managed to arrange a cab on phone through the cab vendor Mr. Taposh Bhaumik (9706922821) who offered Maruti Ertiga (2020 model) at good rate (Rs.3000/- per day incl driver’s food and drivers stay, plus fuel expenses as per actuals or @ Rs.9/- per km). He was decent speaking person and was a gentleman. We were impressed by the fact that he did not insist for any advance amount for the booking.

9.3.2023 Thursday (Delhi-Dibrugarh-Jairampur)

Finally, the day came when we were all set to start our journey. Me and Amit Burman boarded 6.40 am Indigo Flight from Delhi to Dibrugarh. We got the seats in the front row i.e. 1A and 1B. It was a delight to see that we were in august company of country’s law minister Mr. Kiran Rijiju who was in the same row as ours !

The flight landed at Dibrugarh at 9.20 am. We collected our baggage and came out of the airport terminal. There, we met our Maruti Ertiga driver Bharat Sarkar (8135969315) (he is a Bengali and lives in Tinsukia, Assam). From now on, he would be our driver and guide for next 12 days. We started from the airport at about 9.50 am. We got the car tank full on the way. On the way, we passed through various tea gardens, Digboi, etc. It was a travel mainly in the plains. 

At about 1 pm, we reached Jairampur, which is just at the border of Assam and Arunachal Pradesh. From here, Arunachal Pradesh start. It is a small sleepy town at the foothill, on the way to Pangsu pass. We checked in Inspection Bunglow (Circuit House), Jairampur. Our Pangsu Pass permit and our Circuit house booking came on time on my mobile whatsapp. We relaxed for a while in our room (room no.3, on 1^st floor). We met Mr. Neelam Talo and  Ko Likha Tatum, who had been instructed to take care of us at this Circuit house. We asked the caretaker Jinthun (8132860883) to cook food for us. He prepared Matar paneer dish for us and roti. After taking lunch, we went by our car to World War-II Cemetry, which was about 7-8 km, on the route to Pangsu pass. It was all deserted. Not a single person or tourist ! We spent some time here, and clicked some pictures. 

Then we returned back to Circuit house and took a walk around for about 25 min. At 4.15 pm, we returned to circuit house and relaxed in our room. At 5 pm, we had a small snacks session. It became all dark at about 5.30 pm (in North-East, sun set early). At 8 pm, we got prepared omlette slice in dinner. After that, we strolled for about ½ hour on the Road outside. It was so mesmerizing, with full light on the road and no one visible and entire twon seems to be sleeping.

At 11 pm, we went to sleep.

There is not much to do in Jairampur. Only if you are planning to visit Pangsu Pass, only then you may think of staying in Jairampur. (Pangsu Pass is a sensitive area on Indo-Myanmar border and one can go only upto fence on Indian side. No one is allowed to remain there after 3.00 pm, as permission is granted only till 3 pm. The permission to go there is issued by the office of DC, Changlang, but only in exceptional cases). 

10.3.2023 Friday (Jairampur-Pangsu Pass-Namdapha-Deben Forest Rest House)

At 7 am, we got up and Jinthun served hot water for drinking, whereafter we got ready. 

At 9 am, we took breakfast (Bread toast and butter and tea) in the dining room on ground floor. We cleared the bill of Circuit house and gave payment to Jinthun.

We packed and put our luggage in the car and at 9.20 am, we started for Pangsu Pass (50 min journey from Jairampur). We passed by World War-II Cemetry, Jairampur. There is a helipad nearby. There is also a Jairampur Tourist Lodge here. There were tea gardens on both sides. It was up and down journey on serpentine road. We passed by Nampong village. Every year, in January, there is a big winter festival organised here. There is a helipad in Nampong (generally the Governor attend the festival and come by helicopter here). One of the famous winter festival Pangsau Pass Winter Festival is celebrated with pomp and show in Nampong in the month of January every year, where the cultural aesthetics of the North East Tribes and Myanmar people are highlighted.

At a checkpost (about 15 min before Pangsu Pass), Capt Jitender Singh (he joined army about 5 ½ year back after graduating from IMA. He is from Palwal, Haryana. He did B.Tech Electronics and communications from Army Institute of Technology, Pune. His father also retired as Hony Captain from Indian Army in 2021. He got married recently. His wife is M.Com from Gargi college and working in a company in Gurgaon in a start-up which is into data collection of Politically Exposed Persons) joined us in our car and escorted us to Pangsu Pass checkpost. We passed by a small make-a-shift temple of Dongri baba. There is no one here. Jawans at the time of commissioning and decommissioning here offer liquor here. It is said that dongri baba protects them. Faith ! 

At about 10.20 am, we reached Pangsu Pass. He was very kind to show us the checkpost and briefed us on the terrain and the difficulties being faced here from the infiltrators from Myanmar side. This spot is the confluence of India Myanmar border. We climbed atop a machan with him and we could see the areas around. We could see the Myanmar side and also the Lake of No return which is in Myanmar. Legend has it that during World War II, large numbers of Aircrafts were reported to have perished into this lake. Perhaps, the lake served the Allied Pilots for soft landing into the lake water during return mission when the Aircrafts got hit by enemy or out of mechanical snags in the Aircraft. The Pilots had chosen this lake for emergency landing in case of imminent Air crash and therefore, many aircrafts were reported to have perished in to the lake.

In January 2020, a market was developed here with shops built on Mynamar land and Indian land. But before this market could be started which would have been a big boost to the relations between India and Myanmar espl the people living in border area, covid pandemic struck in March 2020 and the entire scheme went for a toss. Then, in August 2022, some infiltrators from Myanmar side opened fire here. This also marred any chances of reviving this market. There is constant fear of trouble from militant outfits operating on Myanmar side. These outfits have support of local people on Indian side espl village Nampong.

Then we had tea with the Captain. I wrote memoir in the army book. This post is handled by Assam Rifles. Captain is currently on deputation to Assam Rifles here.

At about 11.15 am, we started from Pangsu pass. We dropped Captain at his post. He is the commanding officer here. 

We reached the spot where the road was going back to Jairampur and one road was going to Kharsang. We took route to Kharsang which was 17 km from here. 

At 1 pm, we took lunch on the way at Sneha Foodland (8974271895), at Geo Enpro Road, Housing Tenali in Kharsang. The lunch was prepared so well : chowmein, mix vegetable and stuffed parantha. In my experience, such a delicious north-indian style vegetarian food is a rarity in Arunachal Pradesh. At 2 pm, we started again. 

At 2.30 pm, we reached Miao gate and continued towards Namdapha. There were some really beautiful views on the left side (valley and trees with river flowing at distance). 

At 3.15 pm, we reached M’Pen Gate, which is the entry gate to Namdapha National Park and Tiger Reserve, Miao-792122. We showed our Namdapha permit here. We were charged 500/- for vehicle entry and Rs.50/- per person entry and Rs.100/- for camera. Then we crossed a red pillar gate which welcomed us to M’Pen-II Chakma Village. 

After some time, we crossed another check post, where the Arunachal army girls checked our permit. (This road from Miao to Deben is going further to Vijaynagar, which is about 135 km from Deben and takes about 6 hours. The Capt had told us that Vijaynagar is very beautiful and is mini Switzerland of India. One can also book helicopter (haptor) from Miao to Vijaynagar, which flies probably on Tuesday and Thursday only and charges Rs.1000/- one way per person (to be confirmed?)). There is a shop here at this check point from where one can purchase any item as there is no shop after this point. We purchased chips, biscuits from here. The army girls told that after this point, we will not get any mobile signal inside jungle (But strangely, the Airtel signal worked inside jungle including in Deben !).

At 4.35 pm, we reached a point on Miao-Vijaynagar road (almost the entire road is non-metalled road), where there was a small road going down on left side with an entry board of Deban. We took this road down and reached Deben Forest Rest House at 4.40 pm, after crossing the office of Forest Range Officer, Deban.

Deben Forest Rest House / campsite  is a cluster of cottages where people having booking through Field Director, Namdapha National Park & Tiger Reserve Miao can stay and enjoy the activities in Namdapha National Park. It is well maintained. I noticed that here, in Namdapha, people have assigned mile / km number to specific points, like Deban Camp is 17 mile (Deban campsite is 17 km from M’Pen Gate and 22 km from Miao). 

We were greeted by Nore Bahadur Chetry, the Caretaker (9707151109) on reaching there. (He is from Tezpur, and is serving at Deban camp for last about two years). The cottage Dehing in Deban Forest Rest House was allotted to us. The driver removed our luggage (this time, we carried suitcase instead of rucksack) from car and put it into our cottage. These are VIP cottages. It has one common room and a bed room having twin beds, and attached bathroom toilet. This is quite a big cottage. (There were single room and dormitory also nearby). The caretaker told us that some foreigners were staying here for last 4 nights and have left today only. Now, there was no guest at Deben. Infact, the tourist season here has almost come to an end. In this campsite, the electricity is through solar panel. There is no geyser (caretaker, on request provide bucket of hot water). Mobile signal is perfect here (I worked on my laptop here, and browsed internet, without any problem).

It was a picturesque location. The river Noa Dihing could be seen flowing at a distance. The site is surrounded by big trees. I and Amit explored the site for 15-20 min. Within few minutes, it became dark at about 5.30 pm. We freshened up and sat under shed adjoining our cottage. The caretaker prepared onion and potato pakoras for us, which we enjoyed with drinks and while listening to light music from my mobile. (At about 7 pm, one young couple also checked in Deben). It was such a beautiful feeling, enjoying the weather here. It was so pleasant. 

The caretaker called the Elephant owner (we had already conveyed in advance that we would be doing elephant safari tomorrow). We told him to be ready in morn at about 8 am to take us on elephant ride to explore the national park. (He seemed not very optimistic and told that ride would hardly last for 20-25 min as there is not much to see nowadays !). 

At about 9 pm, we took dinner. The caretaker warmed the dish left from lunch, for me, while Amit took chicken. Amit over. I strolled in the campsite campus. At 11 pm, we went to sleep.

The wind started blowing in the night. (Now, I knew why there was no fan in the room…its because in night the place becomes pleasant and cold due to winds !).

11.3.2023 Saturday (Elephant Safari at Namdapha)

At 7.15 am, we got up. I walked to the edge of the small hillock on which Deban forest campsite has been carved out, and sat on red bench there, staring at the riverfront,  the Noa Dihing river flowing in front and the jungle across the river. There was a narrow bamboo bridge to cross the river. The river was not very deep but flow was good. The river water was clear and one could see the big pebbles under the river. After about 20-25 minutes, I returned to the cottage, drink warm water and freshen up. At about 8.30 am, the caretaker served our breakfast which we relished sitting outside our cottage. It comprised bread omlette and tea.

At about 9 am, the young couple returned after completing elephant ride. The elephant owner Japang (asst. is Ganesh Tamang 9383292733) met me. He is providing elephant ride services at Deban for last 27 years ! His family lives in Miao. 

At 9.20 am, me and Amit climbed on the elephant (using an aluminium ladder) and started from Deban, for a mesmerizing unforgettable elephant safari. The Elephant was a male elephant aged about 17 years and was named Samrat. The mahaot was Ravi, a young boy. The elephant got down to riverfront from the side of the cottages. The elephant crossed the river and reached the other side. It was a unique experience crossing the river (must be about 100 mtr wide) on an elephant. After crossing the high rise grasses and bushes and meandering by the side of rivulets, the elephant entered the jungle. It was a steep incline in jungle but the elephant climbed it ! It was a unique experience climbing the trekking route on an elephant ! The jungle was full of tall bamboo trees and variety of flora. There were so many butterflies here. The mahaoat also showed us a rudraksh tree there.  After travelling for about 1 ¼ hours, we reached a spot in jungle where a fallen big tree was obstructing the trail in such manner that the elephant neither could go below it nor above it. So, we decided to return from here (else we were proceeding towards Hadi____ campsite). We took the same trail back and returned back to Deben camp at about 11.35 pm (in 2 hours). 

Me and Amit sat outside our cottage and gossiped, enjoying the wilderness and serenity of the surroundings.  At about 1 pm, I took bath. We then again sat outside our cottage, waiting for our lunch. We were not relishing the food cooked here, so we ordered in kitchen for boiled eggs and potato fries. 

At 2.30 pm, we started in our car to explore around. We took Miao-Vijaynagar road and moved towards Vijaynagar on uneven muddy road. After 5 min, we crossed a small picket of army (Assam Rifles) on left side, called B Company. We went about 6 km and reached a Watch Tower. (It was called 24 mile point). Four local boys on bikes were atop watch tower and taking pics. We also joined them and took pics. After 10 min, we moved further towards Vijaynagar. After 1 km, the road was so muddy that it was difficult for our car to go further. So, we decided to return from this point, which was about 7 km from our Deban Camp. 

At 4 pm, we returned back to Deban camp. Me and Amit gossiped sitting outside our cottage, watching the sun go down. By 5.30 pm, it was all dark.

At 6 pm, we sat outside cottage and enjoyed music and snacks. I worked on my laptop.

At 8.45 pm, we took dinner. At my request, the cook gave me rice and hot milk and sugar (as I was not interested in eating the subzi, dal and roti cooked here).

At about 10 pm, me and Amit joined a group of trekkers from Assam. They were cooking their own food under a chhatri here. We gossiped with them. They also offered us the khichdi cooked by them. At 12.30 am, we said good bye to them and went to our room (they went for trekking in Namdaha jungle in morning at 5 am. They were carrying their own food and tent).

12.3.2023 Sunday (Namdapha to Golden Pagoda Resort, Namsai)

At 6.30 am, we got up in Deban Camp. Cool breeze was blowing, making the environment pleasant. Me and Amit sat outside our cottage and sipped tea. 

We got ready and took our breakfast (omelette, tea). Then, we cleared bill and made payment to Nore Bahadur. (500/- per day for room, 1200/- for elephant safari and Rs.2000/-for food. Food was charged costly). 

At 9.10 am, we started from Deban camp, back towards Miao. At 9.20 am, we passed by Anamika falls (a small waterfall on our left on the way). At 9.45 am, we passed by the board of ‘Moti jheel’. At 9.47 am, we passed Gibbonsland. It is also called  10th Mile checkpost (manned by Assam Rifles girls) Miao is 12 km from here. 

After crossing this checkpost, there was a private camp for staying, called  Dapha Valley Jungle camp (8798202658). Hardeep is the person managing here. One can stay at this place, overlooking river Noa Dihing. He told that charges are Rs.2000/- per night.

From here, the dusty road changes into black top road. At 10.08 am, we passed by Chakma Village red pillar gate. 

At 10.17 am, reached M’Pen checkpost Gate (entry gate of Namdapha). We made entry here (to the effect that we are exiting Namdapha National Park).

At 10.45 am, we reached  Mini Zoo in Miao. The entry ticket was Rs.20/-per person. We saw Hoolock Gibbons (2) and other animals here.

(We had enquired and desirous of taking helicopter from Miao and go to Vijaynagar, which charges about Rs.1000/- per person and is about 10 min journey by helicopter and but takes 7 hour by bumpy road. But today was Sunday, and helicopter does not fly on Sunday. Ladies at mini zoo told us that Helicopter flies on Monday and Thursday, but we can not just go there and return within 2 hours as Helicopter does not wait there). 

At 11.05 am, we started again, and crossed Miao Gate. We reached Tibetan Refugee Settlement colony in 5 min. We saw Buddhist structures here : Guru Padmasambhava Statue and Gomang Chorten. We found that the famous Refugee market was closed due to today being Sunday (We noticed that on Sunday, almost all establishments in Arunachal are closed, the reason being given is that people have to attend to church in morning. (But, in reality, I am told, the youngsters instead of going to Church indulge in drinks and drugs and partying). At 11.45 am, we took lemon soda at an eatery in colony.

At 12.10 am, we started from the Refugee colony, and moved towards our next destination i.e. Namsai.

At 12.40 pm, we reached Kharsang (we were taking the same route back which we took while coming from Jairampur to Miao). In Kharsang, we reached Sneha Food restaurant. Incidentally, it was open while all other shops were closed being Sunday. We had hardly moved ahead when our car tyre got punctured. The driver replaced the tyre. We could not get the puncture fixed as Tyre puncture shop was closed (the owner was there but could not help in fear of being challaned by local Association).  We were feeling hungry and were not sure of getting any good food outlet ahead. So, we came back to Sneha Foodland and took lunch here. I took mix Veg and parantha (which was tried and tested). We took Paperboat lassi from the shop below.

After taking our