Wondering what to do in Poitiers and the best places to visit? I’ve got you covered.
Until recently, the only time I’d visited the city of Poitiers was to use the train station to take trips to Paris. But then I read the trilogy of books by Elizabeth Chadwick on Eleanor of Aquitaine.
As a result, I became fascinated with Poitiers, the place she was born and a big part of her court life as the Duchess of Aquitaine.
What I discovered about Poitiers, apart from its fantastic history, was a vibrant city of culture that was exciting to explore. It’s filled with boutique shops, boulangeries, patisseries and even a fromagerie.
This guide on what to do in Poitiers will help you find the best places to visit, plus everything you need to know before you go to enhance your trip.
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What to do in Poitiers?
If you love French and English history then Poitiers will have you spellbound. Not only is the city centre full of medieval buildings but it so easy to walk around. There are several squares full of cafes where you can sit and watch the world go by.
It was in this city that Eleanor of Aquitaine spent a lot of her life, and was possibly born. She went on to become Queen of France and then Queen of England putting the city of Poitiers firmly on the map.
But before we dive into what to do in Poitiers, lets cover a few of the basics to prepare you for your trip.
Where is Poitiers?
Poitiers is in the Nouvelle Aquitaine region of Western France on the River Clain and even has its own international airport. It’s the capital of the Vienne department and the main hub for the Poitou region.
Is Poitiers worth visiting?
I cannot recommend Poitiers highly enough. Not only will it fill your mind with stories of the olden days of Eleanor of Aquitaine’s rule, but there are some fabulous restaurants and bars, as well as beautiful gardens, cobbled streets and churches.
In fact, due to the number of churches in this area, Poitiers is known as “la ville aux cent clochers” (the town of a hundred steeples).
And don’t get me started on the buildings. Whilst it doesn’t have quite the same amount of medieval houses as somewhere like Rouen, I discovered old 12th century buildings around every corner.
The Weather in Poitiers
It rarely gets below 10 degrees in the winter with warm summers where the temperatures tend to sit around 25-30 degrees.
And with an average of 1,900 hours of sunshine each year, there is no shortage of balmy summer evenings sitting outside enjoying the sunset.
Is Poitiers safe?
Poitiers is a university town and is very safe with a low crime rate. It’s often overlooked in favour of other towns in the region, such as La Rochelle with its stunning harbour, Angouleme as the comic capital of Europe, and Cognac for its famous drink by the same name.
However, when it comes to being a safe city, Poitiers is the safest out of the four.
What is Poitiers in France known for?
There is so much more to Poitiers than just churches.
As I mentioned, it was home to Eleanor of Aquitaine, the only Queen to be married to two Kings from rival countries, France and England. She’s also one of the most written about women in French history.
Orphaned at the tender age of 15, she inherited the Duchy of Aquitaine, the most powerful dukedom outside of France at the time. Louis VI of France became her legal guardian, and she married his son, the Dauphin, Louis VII, who was only 16 himself.
This powerful alliance gave France access to Aquitaine through marriage, but after failing to produce any sons, the marriage was eventually annulled by mutual consent.
Eleanor then married Henry Plantagenet, who became Henry II of England. She bore Henry eight children in total, one of whom was Richard the Lionheart, said to be her favourite son.
Poitiers was where Eleanor spent a lot of time both as a child and during her reign as the Duchess of Aquitaine.
Poitiers was also the scene of one of the biggest battles in the Hundred Years’ War on September 19th 1356.
The English Prince Edward, known as the Black Prince, defeated King John II of France, retaining Aquitaine and keeping it under English rule.
What to do in Poitiers on the trail of Eleanor of Aquitaine
If you love history as much as I do then there are plenty of historic areas of the city to visit. As a big part of this history, there are some places to add to your list where you’ll find stories about Eleanor of Aquitaine.
No 1 – St Pierre Cathedral (Cathédrale Saint-Pierre de Poitiers)
I’m starting with the cathedral where Eleanor was crowned Duchess of Aquitaine alongside her husband, Louis VII, who was crowned Duke of Aquitaine.
Then when she married Henry II of England after her marriage to Louis VII was annulled, the cathedral again played host.
It’s a magnificent building that was constructed on top of the ruins of an old Roman basilica.
You can just imagine the bells ringing out to celebrate the wedding of Henry and Eleanor with her subjects lining the streets.
It was common at weddings of this sort for small loaves of bread and silver coins to be thrown into the crowds. I would imagine it’s one of the reasons events like this were so popular with the peasants.
You’ll notice a stained glass window depicting Eleanor, Henry and their four sons in the background which was donated by the couple themselves.
No 2 – The Palace of Justice (Palais des comtes de Poitou-Ducs d’Aquitaine )
It was here that Eleanor spent a lot of time, as a child and as the Duchess of Aquitaine. In the heart of old Poitiers, it’s a reminder of times gone by, although nothing like its former glory.
Overlooking the River Boivre this fortress was originally surrounded by moats and separated from the rest of the city.
So many things happened here during Eleanor’s life from the time she spent there with Louis VII and her wedding night with Henry II, to witnessing royal council meetings with people like Thomas Beckett.
But it was the period between 1168 – 1173 that she spent some of her happiest times attending to the administration that came with the Duchy of Aquitaine.
During this time, Eleanor commissioned the Great Hall, or Salle des Pas Perdus (hall of lost footsteps), to be built. It was the largest in Europe at 50 m x 17m.
She wanted somewhere to host grand events and showcase her power as both Queen of England and Duchess of Aquitaine.
After years of being undermined by both her husbands, this was her domain, and she filled it with troubadours, dancing and fun.
It was a place of glittering celebrations and became known as “the courts of love”.
Before Eleanor was born, her grandfather, Count William IX, known for his love of life and women, had a donjon, or fortified tower, added for his mistress, Eleanor’s grandmother.
He then arranged a marriage between his son and the daughter of his mistress, Eleanor’s parents.
If those walls could talk just imagine the stories they’d tell.
No 3 – Blossac Park
Eleanor also commissioned ramparts around the city although they are no longer visible today. However, there are some remains in Blossac Park.
The park was built towards the end of the 17th century on the initiative of Count de Blossac, Intendant of Poitou.
It’s a beautiful area covering 9 hectares featuring an English garden, French garden and theatre where many open-air concerts are held.
No 4 – Royal Abbey of Fontevraud
Although not in Poitiers, Fontevraud Abbey is only 50 miles north in Saumur and played an important role in the life of Eleanor of Aquitaine.
Founded in 1101 by Robert d’Arbrissel, it’s unusual in that it was a monastery for both monks and nuns, and Robert decreed the abbey should be ruled by an abbess who was a widow and not a virgin.
There were 36 abbesses in total with one of them being Henry’s Aunt and first cousin, Mathilde.
Eleanor visited the abbey on several occasions to meet Mathilde and it became her escape from the world. In fact, when she supported her sons in their rebellion against their father, Henry II, she took refuge in the abbey.
From there, she set out in disguise as a man to meet up with her sons in Paris. However, she was unfortunately caught by the Kingsmen and eventually transferred to England, where she began her long imprisonment until Henry’s death.
She later retired to the Abbey before her death and did indeed die within the Abbey walls.
It’s here that you can see the effigies with the tombs of Henry II, Eleanor of Aquitaine, their son Richard the Lionheart and Isabella of Angouleme, wife of John Lackland, their youngest son.
Ever the strategic game player, it was Eleanor herself who designed the tombs, with hers depicting her reading a book. She wanted to create a dynasty even in death.
Other things to do in Poitiers
No 5 – Église Saint-Hilaire Le Grand
Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998 as a pilgrimage church on the road to Santiago de Compostela, it was built in the 11th century, supposedly upon the tomb of Saint Hilary, the first known Bishop of Poitiers.
It was the main church for a neighbourhood that sprung up around it and was protected by its own enclosures. In the 12th century, during the time of Eleanor of Aquitaine and Henry II, it became part of a bigger walled enclosure.
It’s in this church that Richard the Lionheart, Eleanor’s 3rd and favourite son, received his ducal power.
It suffered badly during the Wars of Religion and was then ruined and abandoned during the French Revolution. It was rebuilt extensively in 1875.
It’s quite something to see with all its columns and a certain grandeur to it that really takes your breath away.
No 6 – The Devil’s Staircase (The Legend)
Not far from Saint-Hilaire church is one of many sets of steps you’ll find in Poitiers called The Devil’s Staircase, or Les Escaliers du Diable in French. It starts at Boulevard Achard and goes up to the Rue Cuvier.
I love a good story or legend, and this one is really quite funny, and it’s set during the reconstruction of Saint-Hilaire church in the 11th century.
Apparently, according to legend, the devil was not a fan of St Hilaire. In fact, he was scared of him and saw him as a threat so didn’t want the new church built.
This being the case, he started to work against the masons building the church. As they placed the stones he would come back at night and remove them.
The masons began to wonder what was going on so set up a night watch to see what was happening.
Put off by the night watch standing guard night after night the devil eventually abandoned what he was doing. Not, however, before he had one almighty passing of wind on the staircase.
So much so, that the steps became known as “the stone that stank”. How much truth there is to that is anyone’s guess, but it’s a great story nonetheless.
No 7 – Musée Sainte-Croix
Poitiers is known for its art and culture and I like to think that Eleanor of Aquitaine was the champion behind this. Her love of music, arts and culture was well known, and it was during her time that the Troubadours of Aquitaine came into their own.
The museum was originally built in 1820, but it was in 1974 that it was completely rebuilt on the site of the former Abbaye Sainte-Croix.
The exhibitions are fascinating and cover a wide period in history including prehistory and the Middle Ages to more modern contemporary pieces.
It’s a great place to take the kids as they offer some hands-on workshops that they can get involved in allowing them to practice their artistic skills. It keeps them occupied whilst learning at the same time.
For more details on visiting the museum click here >>>
No 8 – Baptistère Saint-Jean
Welcome to the oldest surviving church in France, built in the 4th century and reconstructed in the 7th century to what we see today.
Its most unusual feature would have to be the baptism pool, and yes, I said pool. Octagonal in shape, people would be completely immersed in the pool during baptism rather than bending over a font to have water poured over their heads.
This pool was used until around the 8th century.
In the baptistry, you’ll find a museum containing Merovingian sarcophagus covers, amongst other things. It’s an absolutely fascinating collection and even includes a Carolingian altar table which you can see in the apse.
No 9 – Église Notre-Dame la Grande
The Église Notre-Dame la Grande is a Poitevan Romanesque church which was one of four other churches in Poitiers that had the name Notre-Dame, all of which have now gone.
The facade we see today was completed in the 12th century, during the time of Eleanor of Aquitaine, and was built over the top of an 11th-century building.
It’s the facade which has everyone in awe and people flocking to it to stand and gaze. Even the locals can’t help but be mesmerised. It’s like a storybook made of stone with all the sculptures and statues.
You’ll see the 12 apostles carved out of stone above an arched doorway and numerous other statues, including Adam and Eve, and many others.
The inside of the church is quite simple in comparison but still worth a look. You’ll see some paintings on the columns that have been undiscovered until recently when the columns were restored.
No 10 – Hôtel Fumé
One of my favourite streets in Poitiers is the rue de la Chaîne. It really is like stepping into the pages of a history book with all the medieval half-timbered buildings, cobbled streets and wrought iron gas lights.
As you go up the hill towards rue René Descartes, you’ll see the imposing building that is Hôtel Fumé.
It’s the perfect example of showy Gothic architecture, and the land was inherited by Pierre Fumé, mayor of the city, upon the death of his father-in-law.
It was around 1480 that Pierre started to build there at the back of the courtyard using the Gothic style that was so popular at that time.
Then in the 16th century, François Fumée, his son, had the original building extended. The family continued to live there until the 18th century when it was sold.
It changed hands a couple of times and was sold for the final time in 1919 to the University of Poitiers.
No 11 – Hôtel Berthelot
Situated between rue de la Chaîne and rue des Carmélites is Hôtel Berthelot, a 16th-century Renaissance house built by René Berthelot.
René was a prominent figure in Poitiers and became mayor in 1529, around the time when the house was built.
You’ll find his initials inscribed in the courtyard, and his coat of arms can be seen in several areas of the building.
As with Hôtel Fumé, it also belongs to the University of Poitiers and houses the Centre for Higher Studies in Medieval Civilization (CESCM), or Center d’études supérieures de civilisation médiévale.
To find out more about the building visit the University website here >>>
No 12 – Place du Maréchal-Leclerc
The square has a very different feel to the rest of Poitiers but still has a history all of its own.
In the Middle Ages, it was more of a marketplace filled with stalls and during Eleanor of Aquitaine’s time, was a thriving hub of the economic community. It was known as the market square and named “Place du Marché Vieil”.
Things changed in the 17th century, and it was renamed “Place Royale” with a statue of Louis XIV in the centre. During the French Revolution, the statue was destroyed, and it was briefly renamed “Place Nationale” until returning to “Place Royale” during the Restoration.
In 1830 it was renamed once again, this time to “Place d’Armes” to reflect the military parades held there.
It wasn’t until 1948 that it became Place du Maréchal-Leclerc, named after Marshal Philippe Leclerc de Hautecloque who had gone to school in Poitiers.
Rather than showcasing medieval architecture, it is reminiscent of La Belle Époque with lots of lovely art deco buildings.
No 13 – Église Sainte-Radegonde
Radegonde was a formidable woman and Frankish Queen who founded the first abbey for women, Sainte-Marie of Poitiers, in 552. Escaping a brutal marriage, she found refuge in the church and dedicated the rest of her life to helping the poor and needy.
She reportedly performed many miracles, and in 569, after sending some hand-sewn cloth to the Byzantine Emperor, Justinian, she received, in return, a piece of the Holy Cross.
She died in 587 and was buried in the church she’d built outside the city walls, the church of Sainte-Radegonde.
Many pilgrims travel to visit the church from around the world to pay homage to Radegonde. And although you can see her tomb, it is not original and is thought to date back to the late 10th century.
The church was destroyed and rebuilt multiple times, so you’ll see remnants from across the centuries through the architecture.
Day trips from Poitiers
Futuroscope
Just outside of Poitiers is Futuroscope, a multimedia theme park with 22 main attractions. Now I’m not a big one for rides, they usually make me turn a shade of green, but I wanted to at least try a couple so I could tell you about them.
Well, what can I say? I did turn green, but I had fun at the same time.
The best ride, without a doubt, is the Vienne Dynamique, housed within a pavilion where water is the star attraction and where a big waterfall covers the walls.
You’re taken on a journey of a wedding day where a groom is late for his wedding. With him, you take part in a car chase through back streets, fly over the Vienne, jump off a train and hop into a boat going down a river at top speed.
It’s scary and exhilarating all at the same time.
You’ll also hear the dulcet tones of Stephen Fry as he narrates a story in the amazing IMAX 4K laser cinema.
And if you have time, you definitely want to try out the nighttime shows, put on by Cirque du Soleil.
In all honesty, you need two days to fully explore what this park has to offer. It’s such a great day out.
Chateau de Coussay
If you love fairytale-inspired chateaux, then Chateau de Coussay is well worth a visit. Surrounded by a moat with stunning conical towers, it is one of the first castles of the French Renaissance period.
Although it’s privately owned, the family often arranges tours, and you can find out more by visiting the website.
Restaurants in Poitiers
You’re spoilt for choice when it comes to restaurants in Poitiers. But as I never like recommending places I’ve not been to I’m giving you a run down on the places I’ve actually eaten at.
Les Archives
If you like a place where the architecture stars alongside the food then you’ll love this restaurant. It’s located in the nave of an old 19th-century church with beautiful high ceilings and arches.
Built in 1852 it’s part of the Mecure Poitiers and is right near TAP (Theatre Auditorium of Poitiers). The food is fantastic and I loved the fact that I could see things being prepared. I had the grilled John Dory which was wonderful and I could have eaten twice over.
They also have a great cocktail menu so don’t forget to try one whilst you’re there.
It’s incredibly popular so make sure you book in advance so you aren’t disappointed.
LOCATION: 14 Rue Edouard-Grimaux, Poitiers | WEBSITE: Book a Table
16 Carnot
If you’re after more of a brasserie then definitely give 16 Carnot a try. When I went there was a great jazz vibe going on and we went for brunch.
The decor is lovely and you feel instantly relaxed when you’re inside. The food was good and I’d love to go back and try it for lunch or dinner.
LOCATION: 16 Rue Carnot, Poitiers | WEBSITE: Book a Table
Le Rooftop
I went here with my daughter on her last trip to France and we had a great lunch. You can’t go wrong with a two-course meal for €15 each.
As the name would suggest it’s a rooftop bar and restaurant giving you spectacular views over Poitiers. What’s not to love?
They also have live music and entertainment at different times and it’s one not to miss, even if you just go for a drink like I did.
LOCATION: 6 Rue de la Marne, Poitiers | WEBSITE: Book a Table
