Ever dreamed of visiting a village that is like stepping into the pages of a fairytale book?

You’re in the right place. Verteuil sur Charente is one of the most picturesque villages I’ve ever been to. And I’m lucky enough to live just twenty minutes away.

Verteuil is one of those villages you never get tired of. The Charente River runs through it, and the fairytale chateau can be seen for miles around.

You can always tell a first-time visitor to the village because they have a look of amazement on their faces as if they can’t quite believe their eyes. Yes, it’s that stunning. Their cameras are out, and they don’t know where to look.

I still feel a bit like that every time I go. The untouched beauty of the place completely takes your breath away.

But there is so much more to Verteuil than its looks. The history and romance of the place envelop you as you walk across the bridge, into the heart of the village, to the market square.

The History of Verteuil-sur-Charente

Verteuil-sur-Charente is in the Charente region, north of Angoulême, not far from the town of Ruffec within the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region of southwest France. It’s a journey back in time, where each cobblestone and river bend tells the tale of centuries past.

The village’s name, Verteuil, means a fortified place, hinting at its strategic importance during medieval times. It all starts with the La Rochefoucauld family from the village of the same name.

The La Rochefoucauld family’s history in Verteuil dates back to the 10th century, beginning with Foucauld I. Their rise from lords to dukes of La Rochefoucauld reflects their close relationship with the French royal family over the centuries. 

They were smart cookies, and through strategic marriages and loyal service, they established themselves as key figures by participating in significant historical events. 

Their loyalty was rewarded with land and charters, allowing them to build castles and strongholds, Verteuil chateau being one of them. This put Verteuil on the map as a village of some consequence.

Le Chateau de Verteuil

Initially established as a fortress by the LA Rochefoucauld family, the château underwent significant transformations, particularly during the Hundred Years’ War. It was a strategic asset alternately held by the English and the French, a testament to its importance in medieval military campaigns. 

The Treaty of Brétigny temporarily ceded it to the English, with them reigning supreme in the region. However, by 1442, Charles VII of France recaptured it, and it was a return to French sovereignty​.

Despite being nearly destroyed by Charles VII to punish the Rochefoucauld family for their allegiance to the English, it was rebuilt with added fortifications.

It was nearly destroyed again during the French Revolution, but the strong ties between the La Rochefoucauld family and the local community stopped it from being completely destroyed.

It underwent renovations in the 19th century, bringing it closer to what you see today.

When I look at the chateau with its five conical towers, I’m immediately reminded of something out of one of the Ladybird books I read as a child, specifically Rapunzel. 

The grey slated tiles on the towers look exactly how imagine the tower Rapunzel was locked up in to be. All I need to see is the long gold plait being let down for the prince to climb up, and I’d be all set.

But its history doesn’t end there. During WW2, it was a hideout for some of the French Resistance, and later in the war, it was occupied by the Germans.

The locals tell some fascinating tales about how the village was completely divided between collaborators and supporters of the resistance. 

Even now, some families will not speak to each other because of this divide, even all these years on.

It’s still very much there, and on Remembrance Day, there are two distinct sides during the service and parade. Emotions run deep, and it’s not surprising as the village suffered a lot at the hands of the Nazis.

The Convent of the Cordeliers

The chateau isn’t the only old building in Verteuil, the old convent dates back to medieval France. 

It once housed a community of Franciscan friars, also known as Cordeliers because of the cord they wore around their waist. 

The order was dedicated to a life of poverty, preaching, and helping the needy. And it was also where the La Rochefoucauld family were buried until the French Revolution.

For a while, the convent was a venue for weddings and ran a luxury B&B, but it is now permanently closed, which is a shame.

Church of Saint-Médard

Dating back to the 12th century, the church is a great example of Romanesque architecture, dedicated to Saint Médard, a revered figure in the Christian faith, known for his piety and miracles. 

The story that fascinates me though, is the one about Rue du Temple, the street running above the church. 

It was apparently constructed to allow women to attend church without getting their dresses muddy, as the main street often became very dirty, especially when animals were herded through it.

Le Moulin de Verteuil

Sat at the foot of the chateau on the banks of the Charente River is an old 17th-century mill, which until recently was still in working order with the flour being used to make the bread sold by the restaurant, Le Moulin de Verteuil. 

It played a vital role in the village’s economy, used for grinding grain, but it was unfortunately closed and sold in 2023.

The Restaurants and Bars in Verteuil-sur-Charente

For a relatively small village, it has quite a few restaurants to choose from. Plus, a fish and chip van and pizza van come to the village once a week.

No 1 Jeux de Pots

This is my favourite restaurant in Verteuil. It’s a little more haute cuisine with a price tag to match, but it’s still affordable.

In the summer months, you can sit outside by the river with views of the chateau, it’s stunning.

The food is excellent, and if you sit inside, it’s a lovely quirky mix of rustic and shabby chic. Everything is mismatched, which all adds to the charm.

Read reviews for Jeux de Pots.

No 2 Café Portebleue

Run by an Englishman, Nat, it’s a lovely restaurant just off the market square with a blue door, as the name suggests.

The menu is an English/French mix, and my favourite time to go is during the week for the Menu du Jour. It’s such good value. You get a three-course meal from a set menu, plus a glass of wine.

I went for hubby’s birthday in January, and we had a Coq au Vin that was to die for.

Read reviews for Café Portebleue

No 3 Le Bistrot des Douves

They don’t do meals as such, but it’s where you go to eat your fish and chips or pizza in the winter if you’ve got it from the van in the square.

In the summer, it’s the place to meet and sit outside with a carafe of wine. Conveniently located just off the main square, they host karaoke nights and regular entertainment both in the bar and out on the square.

Find out more about Le Bistrot des Douves

No 4 La Sénéchalerie

This is more of a new kid on the block as the owners, who also own Le Bistrot des Douves, bought it during the pandemic and renovated it into a bar/restaurant.

It has stunning views of the chateau, and you almost feel like you could reach out and touch it because it’s so close.

In the summer, they have live music and entertainment regularly, and in the winter, you’ll find most of the English community there taking part in the quiz nights.

The food has gone more upmarket recently as they have a new chef, and we’ve some great meals there. It’s the best seats in Verteuil as far as views are concerned. But be warned, if you want to eat, you’ll need to book a table.

Find out more about La Sénéchalerie

Where to stay in Verteuil

Verteuil doesn’t have any hotels but there are some great gites and chambre d’hôtes on offer. Here are three I recommend:

Les Halles Chambre D’hôtes

This bed and breakfast is a stone’s throw from the centre of Verteuil with a private courtyard garden and views of the Charente River.

The two guest rooms come with their own en suite bathrooms featuring walk-in showers, a flat-screen TV offering satellite channels, a coffee machine, electric heating, and premium bedding.

La Maison de Marie

If you’re looking for a self-catering holiday home, La maison de Marie is a great gite right in Verteuil with a private pool and four bedrooms and a fully equipped kitchen.

There is a private entrance and parking with a decent size garden and a terrace with views of the pool.

La Tuilerie

A bed and breakfast with family rooms, free private parking and free WiFi.  Each room has views of the courtyard and garden and is fitted with a flat-screen TV with streaming services.

A continental breakfast is served each morning with local specialities. All rooms have a private bathroom, coffee machine, walk-in shower and free toiletries.

Final thoughts: The Pretty Village of Verteuil

Verteuil really is a little piece of French heaven in the Charente. The chateau is breathtaking and adds to the charm of the village.

In the summer there are lots of events to enjoy including the fantastic night market where the community gathers to enjoy food, drink and entertainment in the field on the outskirts of the village.

It really is the prettiest village in the Charente so make sure you add it to your list of places to visit in France.

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