Why should you visit Charente France?

There are so many things to do in Charente France, it’s hard to know where to start. You’ll discover the history of fairytale chateaux, walk through storybook villages, and take trips to the daily markets.

Then there is wine tasting in the vineyards, trips to the beach, and oysters that will make your mouth water. The region of the Poitou-Charentes has it all.

And I should know because I live in the sunflower-filled region of the Charente. I still have to pinch myself to believe that my dream of living in France has become a reality.

However, it took me a few months to really understand the best of what the Poitou-Charentes has to offer. 

The guidebooks don’t tell you everything and they don’t always get it right. So, for the best tips on the places to see and the things to do, I’m giving you a local perspective to help you have the trip of a lifetime in the beautiful Poitou-Charentes region of France.

Let’s get started.

Where is the Charente, France?

First of all, you need to know where you’re going. The Charente department is one of four departments making up the Poitou-Charentes region. The other three departments are the Charente-Maritime, Deux-Sèvres and Vienne.

In 2016, the French government, in their wisdom, decided to do away with the Poitou-Charentes and create a new region called the Nouvelle Aquitaine.

This new region combines 13 departments into one giant department.

Now, the French, being the French, aren’t too keen on that idea and still insist on calling it the Poitou-Charentes. 

And being an honorary French person with my “Carte de Sejour” (permanent residence visa, which I now need because of Brexit), I’m siding with the French on this one.

So, with that in mind, although I will have a strong focus on the Charente, I’m also including things to do in the wider area of the Poitou-Charentes so you get the best of it all.

Things to do in Charente, France in 2023

If you’re visiting the Poitou-Charentes region of France, there are a few ‘must-visit’ places to put on the list. And we’re starting off with the top seven towns I’d recommend if you’re visiting for 5-7 days.

No 1 Angouleme

Angoulême is probably my favourite city in the Charente as it combines history and culture seamlessly. Whether you’re a history buff like me, an art enthusiast, or simply seeking a taste of authentic French life, Angoulême has something for everyone.

Its roots go back to Roman times, and you can still see remnants of its medieval past as you walk along the cobbled streets. The city was once the capital of the Angoumois region and has played a significant role in French history.

One of its most famous events is the Angoulême International Comics Festival, a mecca for comic book enthusiasts from around the globe in January.

Another noteworthy event is Circuit des Remparts in September, where classic cars race through the streets of Angouleme. Even if you’re not into racing this event is a lot of fun with an amazing atmosphere.

Top Three Things to Do

• Hotel de Ville: This is where I’d start at the Hotel de Ville (City Hall). Isabella of Angouleme, who was married to King John of England (the Magna Carter guy) and son of Eleanor of Aquitaine, was responsible for the original building with her second husband, Hugh X of Lusignan.
• Ramparts Walk: Then take a leisurely walk along the ancient city ramparts. The panoramic views of the Charente River and the picturesque landscape are an Instagrammer’s dream. You can also see the second part of the city below, as Angouleme is a city of two halves, the upper and the lower.
• Comic Strip Trail: If you want something a little more unusual then go on a self-guided Comic Strip Trail. Admire the larger-than-life comic book murals you’ll see on many of the city’s walls. There is even a map for you to follow provided by the Tourist Board.

No 2 Cognac

Cognac is probably the place most people will have heard of in the Charente. It’s here that the Cognac production comes to life. The town has been a centre for brandy-making since the 17th century. The proximity to vineyards, limestone-rich soil, and the Charente River’s influence create the perfect conditions for cultivating the grapes used to produce Cognac.

Cognac’s history can be traced back to Roman times when it was known as “Comniacum.” Over the centuries, Cognac evolved into a thriving medieval town with fortifications and gorgeous half-timbered houses with cobbled streets.

In the summer, it plays host to the Cognac Blues Festival, where some famous names, such as Santana, have headlined.

Top Three Things to Do

• Cognac Houses: Begin your journey by visiting the renowned Cognac houses like Hennessy, Martell, and Rémy Martin. Take guided tours to learn about the meticulous process of distillation and ageing, and of course, sample some of the world’s finest cognac.
• Château Royal de Cognac: One of the town’s historical gems is the Château Royal de Cognac. Originally constructed in the 10th century, it became the residence of French kings in the 15th century. The castle’s grandeur and rich history make it a must-visit for history buffs.
• Cruise on the Charente River: For a different perspective of the region, embark on a relaxing cruise on the Charente River. It offers scenic views of vineyards, picturesque villages, and the lush countryside.

No 3 La Rochelle

Known as La Ville Blanche (the White City) because of its white buildings, La Rochelle is on the Atlantic coastline and is extremely popular with tourists due to its gorgeous sandy beaches, harbour and great history. 

The bustling harbour served as the gateway to the sea for merchants, explorers, and adventurers, not to mention the Knights Templar, who had a stronghold there. 

Today, it offers a lovely waterfront promenade where you can watch boats bobbing in the harbour and enjoy the oysters on the menu at every restaurant. 

La Rochelle’s coastal location makes it the perfect starting point for exploring two nearby islands. Île de Ré, with its sandy beaches and Île d’Oléron, both offering stunning beaches and oyster and salt farming.

The islands are accessible by bridges from La Rochelle and are ideal for day trips or longer stays.

Top Three Things to Do

• Old Port (Vieux Port): Stroll along the Old Port with its historic towers and fortifications. Don’t miss the iconic Tour de la Chaîne and Tour de la Lanterne, both offering fantastic views of the harbour.
• Aquarium La Rochelle: Explore the underwater world at the Aquarium La Rochelle. It’s a fascinating journey through the marine life history of the region.
• Musée Le Bunker de La Rochelle: Discover a piece of history at the Bunker Museum. Explore underground tunnels and bunkers that reveal La Rochelle’s role during World War II, providing a unique perspective on the town’s past.

No 4 Poitiers

To say I love history would be an understatement, but I’m particularly interested in Eleanor of Aquitaine. Poitiers is said to be her city of birth, and as the Duchess of Aquitaine, she had a palace there too.

There is so much to love about this city, apart from Eleanor’s connection. Poitiers is a city with an illustrious past dating back to Roman times.

It played a pivotal role in European history during the Middle Ages, hosting significant events like the Battle of Tours in 732 AD, where Charles Martel’s Christian army defended against invading Muslim forces.

This battle is often considered a turning point in European history.

Top Three Things to Do

• Notre-Dame la Grande: Begin your journey at this remarkable Romanesque church. Its intricate façade is a masterpiece of medieval artistry, and the interior is pretty impressive as well with stunning stained glass windows.
• Palace of Poitiers (Palais des Ducs d’Aquitaine): Explore the Palace of Poitiers, a historic building that once served as the residence of the Dukes of Aquitaine, including Eleanor of Aquitaine. Today, it houses the Courthouse and offers guided tours, allowing you to step back in time.
• Futuroscope: This is great for adults and kids and is a futuristic, multimedia theme park with 22 main attractions just outside Poitiers.

No 5 Aubeterre-sur-Dronne

Aubeterre is a village with the wow factor. It takes your breath away as it is just so picturesque. Officially classified as one of the prettiest villages in France (Plus Beaux Villages de France), Aubeterre sur Dronne is also classified as a Petites Cités de Caractère.

It’s known for its remarkable monolithic underground church, Église Saint-Jean. Carved directly into the limestone cliffs, the church is one of the largest of its kind in Europe.

Strolling through Aubeterre-sur-Dronne is like stepping into a postcard. Quaint cobbled streets wind through the village, lined with stone houses with colourful shutters and covered in beautiful flower boxes.

No 6 La Rochefoucauld

We’re now moving closer to where I live, in fact, La Rochefoucauld is only a twenty-minute drive for me. At its heart lies the iconic Château de La Rochefoucauld, a testament to the rich legacy of the La Rochefoucauld family, one of France’s most distinguished and enduring noble families.

Their lineage dates back to medieval times, and they have played significant roles in French history, including in the Hundred Years’ War and during World War II. The family’s legacy includes notable figures like François de La Rochefoucauld, a renowned author and philosopher known for his “Maxims.”

La Rochefoucauld’s history is intertwined with the château that bears its name. I do my weekly shopping in the village and still love seeing the chateau appear in front of me sitting tall up on the hill. 

It’s well worth a visit, and if you’re lucky, you might even meet the Duchess like we did. The spiral staircase is breathtaking and is rumoured to have been designed by Leonardo da Vinci.

The kitchens blew me away too, as they are huge and still set up as they would have been in medieval times, with enormous copper pots and a massive fireplace.

There is also a chocolate shop at the foot of the chateau that makes all its chocolates on-site, I’ve been there too many times to count.

And if you love a good steak, you absolutely must pay a vist to Chez Steph. I can’t recommend it highly enough. But don’t ask for your steak well done as they will refuse you.

No 7 Verteuil-sur-Charente

Even closer to me is the stunningly beautiful village of Verteuil, a favourite with the English-speaking community here. If you love fairytale chateaux, then this is the place to come.

Unfortunately, the chateau is no longer open to the public as it is now privately owned, but it’s still worth coming to the village. It’s one of those places where you just can’t stop taking pictures, especially of the chateau. 

There are some great restaurants here, and the village square plays host to a weekly market every Sunday.

Day Trips to take whilst staying in the Charente France

Bordeaux & Saint Emilion

You can’t come to the Charente and not visit Bordeaux, the wine capital of France. It’s so close and depending on where you’re staying, no more than 90 minutes away. The city is surrounded by vineyards producing some of the finest wines on the planet.

From the storied châteaux of the Médoc to the picturesque vineyards of Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux allows you to taste and explore a diverse range of vintages.

A day trip can include wine tours, tastings, and visits to cellars, providing a deep dive into the art and science of winemaking. Trust me it’s fascinating, and you’ll learn how to taste wine the right way.

But it’s not just about the wine. Bordeaux’s historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage site, with stunning architecture, including the iconic Place de la Bourse with the water mirror and the Gothic Cathedral.

The streets are quite literally lined with boutiques, bistros, and cafes, which I love and can never make up my mind about which one to eat at. 

Then there are the museums, two of my favourites are the Bassins des Lumières, a digital art museum in a submarine base, and La Cité du Vin, a wine museum with a view over Bordeaux.

If you’re up for getting the most out of the city then I recommend getting the Bordeaux City Pass. This will get you into both museums above for free, not to mention many others and free public transport around the city.

Valley of the Monkeys

If you want a fun day out you can’t go far wrong than the Valley of the Monkeys (La Vallée des Singes).

Monkeys are my Mum’s favourite animals, so I took her there for the day not too long ago, and we both absolutely loved it.

Seeing the monkeys roaming around right next to you, up close and personal, was amazing. 

The way they were looked after by the staff was really impressive too, and as it was set on 22 hectares of land, the monkeys had plenty of room to wander.

At no point did you feel like they were in captivity.

Fontevraud Abbey

The Loire Valley is a beautiful area about two hours away from me in the Charente and home to Fontevraud Abbey.

It’s the resting place of four Kings and Queens of England, including Eleanor of Aquitaine, which was the reason I went.

However, you don’t need to be an Eleanor fan to go there, as it’s seriously stunning, aside from the four effigies.

The cloisters are fascinating, and the gardens are beautiful. I could have easily spent all day there and wished we’d had more than the three hours we did.

So if you plan to go, which I highly recommend you do, allow yourself a whole day.

That way, you can enjoy lunch in the grounds of the Abbey and see everything there is to see without feeling rushed.

What do the guidebooks miss when it comes to things to do in the Charente?

Pretty much every guidebook I’ve read about the Charente only focuses on the big cities and towns, like the ones I’ve mentioned. But there is so much more to this region if you take the time to look.

I always joke that where there is a pub on every corner in the UK, and a shopping mall on every corner in the US, there is a chateau on every corner in the Poitou-Charentes.

The guidebooks don’t mention half of them, and there are so many fascinating ones to visit, all with their own stories to tell.

And don’t get me started on the storybook villages that look like they are stuck in a time warp.

We have an abundance of them, from the tiny little places like Luxe, Tusson, and Mansle to the slightly bigger ones like Villebois-Lavalette, Ruffec and Confolens.

The Charente is also home to lots of lovely lakes and river swimming, and kayaking is huge in this region.

What do the guidebooks recommend that I wouldn’t bother with

To be honest, most of the time, the guidebooks do quite well with their recommendations. However, the one thing I haven’t enjoyed is the Dolmens.

What are they? Well, the ancient Dolmens are prehistoric necropolises, and there are a lot in and around the Charentes. 

But in all honesty, they are quite disappointing. I went in search of some near a little village near me called Luxe as I’d heard so much about them.

Turns out there wasn’t much to see at all. It was a bit of rock covered by some flowers. I couldn’t get very excited by it and left feeling a bit let down. 

Maybe I missed the significance, but as someone who loves history, I was really deflated.

So my advice would be, unless you’re seriously into Dolmens, if you only have seven days in the Charente, give them a miss and focus on the other fabulous things we have here.

Where should you stay in the Charente?

If you want a truly French experience, I would suggest either renting a gite or opting for a B&B, otherwise known as a chambre d’hôte.

La Rochelle has some great options, and I’ve put together a selection of the best B&Bs in this region to save you time.

I have also reviewed the 5 BEST B&Bs in the Charente to help you plan your trip.

Travel Tips for a Trip to the Charente France

If you’re visiting the Charente for the first time, or even if you’ve been before, there are a few things you need to know before you come. These tips will save you time and help you have a great vacation in the beautiful Poitou-Charentes.

The best way to get around in the Poitou-Charentes

One thing you should take into account is the fact that the Poitou-Charentes is in rural France. It means things like Uber don’t exist. In fact, it’s pretty much impossible to get any type of cab unless you’re possibly in one of the bigger towns.

My recommendation is to rent a car to make it easier to get around and really appreciate the region.

The trains are good, and most places have a train station, but getting from the station into town isn’t always practical. 

When I go to Bordeaux, for example, I usually drive to Angouleme, park there and take the train. But it still involves using the car.

Eating out in the Charente and the French Apéro?

Staying in the Charente isn’t like being in a big city where everything is open all the time, and you can eat at any time of day or night.

In fact, it’s the complete opposite. If you want to go out for lunch, make sure you arrive before 1.30 p.m. otherwise you won’t eat.

The French have strict rules around when they will and won’t serve you, and if you turn up at 1.50 p.m., you’ll probably get turned away. Lunch is between 12 and 2 p.m., not a minute before or after.

On the flip side, there is a wonderful thing called Apéro Hour in France. It’s something I’ve embraced wholeheartedly since living here. Short for “apéritif,” it’s a French tradition of enjoying a pre-dinner drink with snacks.

It’s a chance to unwind with friends, chat, and enjoy drinks like wine, cocktails, or, in my case, Pineau, along with small bites like olives, cheese, and charcuterie. Traditionally, apéro hour starts from around 6 p.m., but I’ve started as early as 4 p.m. before now. 

You’ll usually wrap things up no later than 8 p.m. when it’s time for dinner. It’s the height of sophistication and so quintessentially French.

The weather in the Charente France?

The weather in the Charente France is good as we have our own micro-climate, giving us mild winters and beautiful summers.

And thanks to the oceanic climate, summers are hot but not muggy!

And get this, we benefit from a whopping 2,400 sunshine hours a year, making the Poitou-Charentes the hottest and sunniest place on the whole Atlantic coast.

Local food specialities in the Poitou-Charentes

France is the land of wine, cheese, pastries and snails, and the Poitou-Charentes has them all.

Cagouilles à la charentaise

Let’s start with snails, or “escargots” as they’re called in France. In the Charente, we have our own variety of snails called “cagouilles”, a garden snail. It’s not uncommon to see people foraging for them in the countryside.

I’ve never quite been able to bring myself to try them, and I still find it hilarious that along with the jars of vegetables, I can also find jars of Cagouilles.

My next-door neighbour, Stefan, has tried to convince me that with a little butter, garlic and cognac, they are fabulous. You be the judge!

Pineau des Charentes

One of my favourite things to drink if we get invited for apéros is Pineau des Charentes. This speciality drink is often overlooked in favour of Cognac. But Pineau is made from Cognac. It’s ¼ cognac and ¾ grape juice and then aged in a barrel for a minimum of a year.

It’s essentially a fortified wine, and the closest thing to it I can think of is port or sherry. I’m a bit of an old lady when it comes to drinking, and I love a good port, especially with cheese. 

But a nicely chilled pineau rosé takes that and kicks its ass. It’s seriously good.It was supposedly created by mistake when a farmer poured some grape juice into what he thought was an empty barrel.

It wasn’t empty, it still had some eaux-de-vie in the bottom.

A couple of years later, when the farmer came across the barrel, he liked what he found so much that it became what we now know as pineau.

Charentais Melon

These little beauties are another yummy product only found in the Charente. You’ll notice them in the supermarket as they have a grooved yellow and green exterior and are the size of softballs. 

When you cut into them, you’ll find a lovely salmon-coloured flesh similar to a cantaloupe. They’re incredibly juicy and are so good when you soak them in white pineau des Charentes.

Marennes-Oléron Oysters

These oysters come from the Marennes-Oléron region, which includes the islands of Île d’Oléron and Île de Ré, as well as the surrounding coastal areas.

They are renowned for their exceptional quality and unique flavour, which is influenced by the nutrient-rich waters of the region.

They are typically raised in oyster beds or “claires” in the shallow waters of the Marennes-Oléron basin, where they feed on a diet rich in phytoplankton and algae.

This diet imparts a distinctive taste and texture to the oysters, making them highly sought after