Standing like a beacon on Wiltshire’s plains, Salisbury Cathedral supports Britain’s tallest spire. The 13th-century building is a fine example of English Gothic architecture and impresses all who see it (including, infamously, a pair of Russian spies). But it is about to become a great deal lovelier. In November, the cathedral sheds the last of the scaffolding that has kept it partially hidden from view for a remarkable 37 years.

The spire was the original focus for masons who were asked to replace its eroded stones in 1986. During this period, workers enjoyed the rare chance to inspect hand-cut stones from the higher levels. They found Victorian graffiti as well as oyster shells that, after their contents had possibly been devoured for lunch, were used to fill gaps between the bricks. Those recently carved include one with a Spitfire on it, in reference to the planes that were secretly built in Salisbury. 

Now the restoration project is complete, the stones will again become unreachable. When the last scaffolding boards are removed, light will flood back through the Prisoners of Conscience window and visitors will see the cathedral returned to its full glory.

It’s a boon to the whole city, one of England’s loveliest: quiet, with riverside walks and many timber-framed buildings on its medieval streets. 

Don’t rush straight to the cathedral when exploring, but pop first into the church of St Thomas Becket. Beneath beautiful wooden ceiling panels is a well-preserved 15th-century Doom painting, showing heaven and the serpents of hell.