Durga Pujo The Call of Homecoming

Sarod Utsav is celebrated in Autumn, predominantly in the month of October. The crisp cool breeze welcomes the anticipation of winter. Cotton-like fluffy clouds float across the sky against the expanse of white Kans phool billowing on fields, gleefully.

Doesn’t it bring back the ever-nostalgic memory of the iconic Apu-Durga scene from Satyajit Ray’s ‘Pather Panchali’? That epiphanic moment when they stood awestruck in a similar picturesque landscape gazing at the majestic railway locomotive, as it whistled by for some far-away lands, leaving behind a plume of upheaval emotions? A scene that perhaps stirs the call of homecoming in every Bengali soul, inevitably.

Durga Pujo, in those five passing days of celebration, ruffles a similar epiphany in our hearts that we tend to clinch onto, until the next year.

The City Starts Embellishing

There is certain exuberance in the air of Kolkata right now. Big hoardings being pulled up, half-done pandals coming into being, streets adorning with thematic alpanas – the City of Joy has already started preening for Durga Puja.

The city boasts a kaleidoscope of myriad Pujo Pandals and their colours, fervours and lights. And in the heart of this rich tapestry, are woven some ageless luminous jewels that remain as a testament to the city's traditional magnificence, a fusion of heritage and modernity. – the Grand Bonidi Barir Pujos of Kolkata.

Kolkata Tales — The Chronicler of Kolkata

As a dedicated chronicler of Kolkata, in this blog, Kolkata Tales is thrilled to take you on a journey into the mesmerising world of these age-old traditions that grace the charming Bonidi Bari neighbourhoods.

Imagine stepping into a realm where time seems to stand still, where courtyards (dalan ghor) are adorned with colourful alpana patterns, and where the air is filled with the sweet scent of incense and dhuno. It's a time when the city's old-world charm and contemporary vivacity merge seamlessly.

In this blog, we'll delve into the interesting ancestral stories behind the aristocracies, the rituals that have been passed down like heirlooms through generations, and the modern twists that keep these 300 years old traditions alive and relevant even in the 21st century.

So join me in unravelling the magic of these celebrations, where faith, culture, and innovation converge to create an unforgettable experience.

What is Bonedi bari Pujo?

Bonedi Bari Pujo is the pujo that is organised by the original aristocrate families of the city and not by any community. In Kolkata, the jamboree comes with a side of nostalgia. Especially within the grand halls and courtyards of the erstwhile zamindari houses, or bonedi baris where grand processions and affluent celebrations used to be held, welcoming villagers from all around, feeding thousands and thousands of subjects, have now settled down into a mere stance of tradition. In an attempt to strike a balance between the fading royalty and the ushering modernity this is understandable.

However, even today, these Bonedi Baris throw open their doors to their hearts and homes during the five days of Durga Puja, asking visitors to bear witness to their centuries-old tradition every year.

Some of these families have celebrated Durga Puja even before the city of Kolkata came into existence.

Oldest Bonedi Bari Pujos & their Stories — Some Older than the City itself

1.   Sabarna Roy Chowdhury Aatchala Durga

In the heart of Kolkata glitters a nugget of history that predates the city itself - the Aath Chala Durga Puja of the Sabarna Roy Choudhury family. Hailing from Barisha, this family once was the zamindars owning the three villages of Kalikata (now Kolkata), Sutanati, and Gobindapur, which were eventually sold to the East India Company in 1698, marking the birth of Kolkata. The British East India Company paid an annual rent of Rs. 1,300/- to the family till the Battle of Plassey in 1757.

It was in 1699 that the first Durga Puja celebrations began at Roy Choudhury's residence, and for nearly three centuries, they have continued this tradition at the same location.

As time passed, the family branched out, and today, there are eight families celebrating Durga Puja, with the Aath Chala Puja being the main one. This extraordinary tradition was initiated by Lakshmikanta Majumder in 1610, and the Majumders received the prestigious title of Roy Chowdhury in 1626, thanks to the recommendation of Raja Man Singh at the Mughal Durbar.

The red pillars that flank the path to the Thakur Dalan, the courtyard where the Puja takes place, bear witness to an incredible history. It was here that Roy Chowdhury and Job Charnock engaged in discussions about the transfer of Sutanuti, Gobindapur, and Kalikata, which played a pivotal role in the city's evolution.

Sabarna Roy Chowdhury's name is etched in history as the previous owner of these villages, with a legacy intertwined with numerous significant events in Kolkata, from the construction of the first road and pucca house to the establishment of the Kalighat Temple Complex. This Durga Puja, like the family itself, stands as a testament to Kolkata's rich and enduring heritage.

Address: 26, Sabarna Para Road, Kolkata – 700008.

2.   Sovabazar Raj Bari Durga Puja

The Sovabazar Raj Bari is a venerable zamindar family mansion that hosts one of the city's oldest Bonedi Durga Pujas. Legend has it that the Goddess Durga herself graces the Rajbari with her presence to listen to its music, as the mehfils are held in the famous Nachghar (Dancing room) during the Puja's nights.

It is known that after Robert Clive's victory over Siraj-ud-daula at the Battle of Plassey, Raja Nabakrishna Deb extended invitations to Lord Clive and Warren Hastings to partake in the Durga Puja at this Raj Bari in 1757.

Traditionally, the Sovabazar Rajbari had a unique practice of releasing Nilkantha birds into the sky on Dashami, the final day of Puja. However, this practice came to an end due to legal constraints imposed by the Wildlife Preservation Act. Now, they immerse clay models of these birds alongside the Durga idols as a symbolic gesture.

What sets this Bonedi Bari Puja apart is its unique feature - the representation of Durga's vahana (vehicle) as a horse, instead of the traditional depiction of a lion.

So if you are in Kolkata you can’t miss this time travel back to this significant point in history written on this very courtyard of the Rajbari.

Address: 36 and 33, Raja Nabakrishna Street, Sovabazar, Kolkata – 700005.

3.   Darjipara Mitra Bari Durga Puja

Durgacharan Mitra, a prominent businessman of his time, held a significant position as the court jeweller for Nawab Siraj-ud-Daula. His nephew, Nilmoni Mitra, continued his legacy. (Nilmoni Mitra Street is named after him). However, the family's fortune waned over time. It was Nilmoni Mitra's grandson, Radhakrishna Mitra, who successfully revived the family's prosperity. Radhakrishna Mitra initiated the tradition of the family's Durga Puja.

In the past, during the immersion of Durga idols at Nimtala Ghat Street in the Ganges River, two Nilkantha birds were released by Radhakrishna Mitra's family members. One would fly towards the Kailash mountains, the sacred abode of Lord Shiva, to inform him of Goddess Durga's departure from Earth to her heavenly realm. The other bird was directed towards the Mitra Bari (house) to signify that Goddess Durga had pledged to return the following year. This family ritual, meticulously observed since 1809, came to an end just like the ritual of Sovabazar Rajbari, following the implementation of the Wildlife Preservation Act.

The Darjipara Mitra Bari Puja holds a prestigious position in North Kolkata, ranking among the top three Pujas alongside Jorasanko Daw Bari and Sovabazar Rajbari. Notably, the idols are placed on a magnificent throne that has stood for over 210 years, adding to the Puja's historical significance.

Address: 19, Nilmani Mitra Street, Kolkata – 700006

4.   Rani Rashmoni Family Durga Puja

The founder of Dakshinewar Kali Temple, Rani Rashmoni’s family Durga Puja is another renowned Bonedi Bari celebration that has retained its grandeur since the British era. Coming from a lower caste Rani Rashmoni, had to overcome a lot of social stigmas to establish the Durga Puja at her courtyard. Their opulent mansion boasts a spacious thakur dalan, a courtyard where the deity is worshipped. All the idols' faces, including Devi Durga's, are made by hands, and Durga's skin tone matches that of the Shiuli flower's stem. This attention to detail gives the idol a unique and sometimes a slightly asymmetrical appearance. The house features a square-shaped courtyard, and the Goddess is of the traditional 'ekchala' type adorned with 'daker saaj' decoration.

Originally initiated by Rani Rashmoni's father-in-law, Babu Pritaram Marh (Das), in 1974, the Durga Puja at their Janbazar residence is now more commonly known as Rani Rashmoni's Durga Puja. Presently held at 13, Rani Rashmoni Road, this very courtyard was once where Sri Ramkrishna Paramahansa Deb conducted his own Durga Puja.

Rani Rashmoni, a revered philanthropist and social reformer, made a lasting impact on Bengal's history. Following her passing in 1861, her daughters and their husbands continued the tradition at their respective residences. The Durga Puja at 13, Rani Rashmoni Road is currently organised by the Hazra family. The second Puja is conducted by the Chowdhury family at 18/3, Surendra Nath Banerjee Road, while the third Puja takes place at 18, Rani Rashmoni Road, hosted by the Biswas family.

Address: 13 Rani Rashmoni Road, 18/3 S.N. Banerjee Road and 18 Rani Rashmoni Road, Kolkata

5.   Narasingha Daw Family Durga Puja

Commenced in 1859 at the Dawn Mansion on Vivekananda Road, the Narasingha Daw Family Durga Puja also known as The Gunmakers' Durga Puja, is renowned for its unique traditions. Originating from Kotulpur in Bankura, one of the Daw family's ancestors, Narasingha Prasad Daw, expanded the family's spice business to Rishra and eventually to Calcutta. The foundation of their gun business was established by Narasingha Chandra Daw in 1835, and they successfully competed with British counterparts. In 1859, the Daw family initiated the Durga Puja, which later took place in the thakur dalan, organised by Nandalal Daw.

One of the most striking features of the Daw family's Puja is the use of a cannon during the Sandhi Puja and arati ceremonies. This unique ritual, introduced by N. C. Daw continues to be faithfully observed by family members. The 17-inch cannon, crafted by the Winchester Repeating Arms Company, possesses all the functionalities of a standard cannon gun. The thakur dalan displays various images of guns, pistols, and rifles, enhancing its distinctive atmosphere. The Goddess's idol is adorned with intricate 'daker saaj' decoration, radiating beauty and grandeur. Another exceptional tradition within the Daw family is the offering of a gun salute to the Goddess on Dashami, just before the immersion of the idols, marking a truly distinctive and memorable conclusion to their Puja celebrations. So this year, bring out some time to go and witness this unique Bonidi bari Durga Pujo.

Address: 20 Vivekananda Road, Kolkata – 700006

A City Steeped in Tradition

As we just explored these time-honoured celebrations, we've journeyed through the annals of history — from the opulent rituals of the Aathchala Durga or Sovabazar Raj Bari to the resplendent Gunmakers' Durga Puja with its cannon salute. We've witnessed the devotion of the Radhakrishna Mitra family and the enduring legacy of Rani Rashmoni's descendants. These Pujas not only offer a glimpse into the city's rich past but also reflect the resilience, creativity, and spiritual fervour of its people.

As you navigate the bustling streets of Kolkata, remember that beyond the glam and glitz of the city's mainstream Durga Puja celebrations, these Bonedi Bari Pujos offer an intimate connection to history and tradition. They are a testament to the enduring spirit of Kolkata, a city that seamlessly blends the old and the new, the traditional and the modern.