If you hear anyone say that they are looking for ‘leg of mutton’, don’t rush to find them an online meat delivery service. And, if you overhear anyone say ‘I love butterfly’, don’t assume they are nature lovers. They are probably referring to the sleeves of Sari blouses. Not just sleeves, even necklines and fits are getting innovative with fashionistas opting for boat necks and belted blouses.

As Indian festive wear gets increasingly imaginative, pulling together a cohesive look can be fairly overwhelming. On Instagram, several Indian sari stylists are voting #unblouse. Don’t panic. They aren’t suggesting that the blouse be ditched, but are instead innovating and experimenting with styles. The leg of mutton, for instance, is a sleeve that is puffed at the shoulder with a straight, fitted finish on the arm. Then there is the regal-looking gathered sleeves, capes, or even power shoulders that add a sharp look to the ensemble.

Blouses, now, tell a story. It can be the embroidery on the back or a sleeve that completely transforms your look. Blouses available online are all about ‘one blouse, many saris’, and can also be used as crop tops with skirts and sporty denims.

They can cost anything from ₹1,500 to upwards of ₹5,000, made in materials that range from cotton to silk. The Safed sari collection on handmade apparel brand Chidiya’s website features a blouse with a closed neckline and pleats. There’s a versatile wrap blouse with intricate Kutch embroidery on Okhai and another one called Laal Mahamaya in organza and silk from Kolkata’s independent fashion label Parama Ghosh.

“Try a ruffle sleeve blouse with a georgette sari,” suggests Hyderabad-based designer Sravanthy Anand, “or a chiffon sari with a front-tie-up on a sharp V-neck”.  

Mumbai-based sari stylist Ashwini Narayan almost never wears a traditional blouse with her nine yards. Instead, she opts for anything from a shirt to a leather jacket. She says, “Why wait to wear one’s favourite sari because your blouse is not ready? Or why stop trying your grandmother’s sari simply because the blouse won’t fit?”

Ashwini adds she pairs saris with jackets, tops, and shirts, and feels that the blouse is as important as the sari. “So don’t settle for the traditional look, unless the situation demands. For those who are not keen on experimenting, contrasting is a great option. Don’t hesitate to pair one blouse with multiple saris. Buy less, wear more,” she says.

Parama — who started retailing blouses with heavy embroidered backs in 2015 — is considered the ‘OG’ by many contemporary sari drapers. She says, her collection, featuring blouses with modern cuts and influenced by Victorian laces and frills, and is an extension of her personal style.

As an advocate of the traditional drape, Parama says, sari should not be looked at strictly as conservative ‘ bhadramahila’ attire. “It is a traditional attire and deserves a fun and funky look,” she says.

Parama adds, laces and frills in her collection are a tribute to Jnanadanandini Devi, who belonged to the Tagore family. Jnanadanandini, she explains, introduced the tradition of wearing blouses to Bengali women during the British rule. “She was a pioneer in fashion,” says Parama, whose Athangudi blouse collection is inspired by designs on handmade tiles.

Addressing how fast fashion brands have quickly taken the cue and introduced corsetry-inspired cropped tops that can be worn with a sari as well as denims, Sravanthy says she is all for modern styles and cuts in traditional textiles. “When the sleeve or strap of a blouse is interesting, it is hard to find anyone who would refuse to wear a sari.” 

Anisha Pal of Chidiya agrees. She says tank tops, and noodle straps add an interesting, Bukkry.com”>New dimension to a sari. “We have paired sarees with buttoned-down shirts, and peplum tops,” she saysand adds, “Sweetheart necklines, wrap arounds and blouson tops are trending with young wearers.”