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The Best Plus-Size Clothing Brands For Women, According To Fashion Experts

After decades of being underrepresented in fashion, finding the best plus-size clothing isn't as tricky as it once was. The plus-size apparel market is thriving; according to Statista, it's worth an estimated $24 billion. With this explosion of demand comes more options, obviously, which means shopping for plus-size fashion is no longer limiting. Instead, everyone from retail giants like Nike to fashion-forward labels like Reformation have embraced more inclusive sizing. The issue now is not so much a lack of options, but finding the very best places to shop for plus-size clothing in what's become a very crowded market.

Reformation is one of our expert's favorite places to shop for plus-size dresses and day-to-night ... [+] pieces.

ILLUSTRATION: FORBES / PHOTO: RETAILERS

As a plus-size fashion influencer, Katrina Nichole knows the market well. "I have been a lover of all things fashion since I was a little girl, and have lived in a bigger body my entire life," she says. "My number one priority when I am shopping is finding clothes that actually fit my ultra-curvy body well and look stylish." Fashion influencer Bonnie Wyrick has a similar point of view. She specializes in the mid-size market (sizes 12 through 16), which she defines as "the space between straight sizes and plus." It's category that speaks to "a quickly growing and highly engaging community who, until recently, didn't feel represented in the fashion or social space."

Here, Nichole, Wyrick, and a few other experts share their go-to retailers and the fashion labels they like best, so you can shop and bookmark them. And for more inspiration, check out our guides to the best plus-size leggings and plus-size bras.

GOOD AMERICAN

Always Fits Good Legs Jeans

Sizes: 00-24Average price point: $99-$175

"Good American is one of my favorite places to shop for any kind of plus-size pieces, especially for jeans," says Nichole. "They come in so many different fits based on your body type and size, and they are one of the few places that create trendy jeans for all sizes. Right now, I am in love with their Good '90s jeans, and their Always Fits jeans are perfection for those who fluctuate in size since there's built-in stretch." 

Pros: 

  • Multiple styles for all body types 
  • Jeans have built in stretch, so they fit comfortably even if you are in between sizes 
  • Cons: 

  • Jeans are on the pricey side 
  • Sizes: 14W–28W and 1X–4XAverage price Point: $98-$148

    "Madewell has invested in being more size-inclusive with a large collection of petite, curvy and plus styles," says Wyrick. "Their curvy collection caters to body types who need a couple extra inches in their hips and thighs but don't want that dreadful waist gap. The line is contemporary and the quality is on point with more high end, buttery fabrications."

    Pros: 

  • Wide range of sizes and variety of lengths, such as petite, standard and tall
  • Curvy collection specifically caters to underrepresented body types 
  • Cons: 

  • Many popular size sizes sell out quickly 
  • forbes.ComMadewell Promo Codes20% Off In September 2023Forbes

    Nordstrom

    Reformation Mara Dress

    Sizes: 0-24Average price point: $128-$328

    "Reformation is a sustainable brand that makes some of the most stunning dresses for upscale and formal events. I fell in love with their Michaela dress so much that I actually hiked with it up to the top of the Arches in Moab just to take photos in it," says Nichole. "They have great basics as well, such as skirts, pants and tops."

    Pros: 

  • Dresses are available in multiple colors and prints 
  • Silhouettes work well for formal events like weddings 
  • Cons: 

  • Not every dress style is offered in extended sizing 
  • Sizes: 0-16Average price point: $70-$100

    "One of my favorite things to say is 'show up and show off' because style isn't a size and I truly believe everyone can wear what they want and should have accessibility to do so," says Wyrick. "Want to wear a crop top? Do it. Nervous to wear a tank? Bare those arms. Brands like Showpo make affordable, trendy clothing in sizes 0-18 and can help make that happen. Each item of clothing is often shown on two different body types, to give you a better idea of what it may look like on you."

    Pros: 

  • Styles are shown on a variety of body types 
  • The brand carries many on-trend looks not found in the plus market 
  • Cons: 

  • If you were looking for larger sizes, the range only goes up to 16
  • ELOQUII

    Eloquii Sweetheart Cropped Blouse

    Sizes: 14-28Average price point: $50-$170

    "Eloquii is a staple store in the plus-size community," says professional stylist and personal shopper McKenzie Crouch. Outside of its wide selection, "it's hip, it's modern, and it has a little bit of everything for every style. Not to mention, the price point and quality is really incredible." 

    Pros: 

  • Wide selection of options available 
  • Many pieces tend to go on sale 
  • Cons: 

  • Popular styles can sell out quickly 
  • Sizes: 12-26Price Point: $24-$135

    Finding modern tops in plus or extended sizing can be especially difficult. Crouch recommends Asos Curve for stylish additions to your wardrobe. "If you are looking for affordable trendy styles, Asos curve has some of the best discounted pieces," Crouch says. "They also have the edgy looks that you want for a vacation or fun event." 

    Pros: 

  • On-trend pieces are available at a reasonable price
  • A wide variety of options are available
  • Cons: 

  • Larger sizes tend to sell out quickly 
  • MOST POPULAR

    Sizes: 12-24Average price point: $150-$2,500

    11 Honoré, which is now available at Dia and Co, has luxury and quality pieces for mid-size and plus-size figures. "It's nice to shop for luxury plus-size pieces in one space; I don't have to guess if the brands offer my size," say Raena Loper, an editor at Forbes Vetted. Dozens of luxury designer styles are available, from Tanya Taylor to Minnie Rose to Ganni. 11 Honoré also has its own collection with similar luxury styles at a slightly lower price point. 

    Pros

  • Great selection of designers and styles
  • High quality fabrics that last
  • Cons: 

  • Some pieces can be on the pricey side
  • Revolve

    Le Ore Andria Legging

    Sizes: 3XS-3XLAverage price point: $45-$255

    Nichole finds it hard to choose a favorite among plus-size activewear brands. "Choosing just one brand when it comes to fitness and workout clothing is hard for me since I like so many," she says. "The site that I am currently obsessing over is Bandier. They offer an array of athletic brands, and their selection of colors, patterns and trends are so unique when it comes to the world of plus-size fashion."

    Pros: 

  • This site offers a variety of brands, so there is an abundance of options 
  • Bandier carries trendy silhouettes and styles from activewear to lounge wear 
  • Cons: 

  • Not every brand on the site offers plus or extended sizing 
  • Sizes: 32A-42DD; XXXS-3XAverage price point: $60-$138 

    "J.Crew's bikinis are my favorite for full coverage, and they have lots of family-friendly one-pieces as well," says Nichole. "If you are looking for bikinis and one-pieces for vacation and sultry getaways, I would also recommend a peek at Good American's swimsuits."

    Pros: 

  • Many tops are sized like bras, so you can get the most exact fit 
  • Wide variety of styles for different body types
  • Styles frequently go on sale 
  • Cons: 

  • Some of the larger sizes sell out quickly
  • Sizes: 0-26Average price point: $65-$125

    "Just because you may a little belly, doesn't mean you have to rock an outdated tankini," says Wyrick. "We want our curves to be supported yet also want to feel snatched, too. Summersalt swimwear is offers slight compression, is made from sustainable materials and provides designer quality, all for under $100. I've done my time with cheaper swimwear brands in the past and they just don't compare to the quality and fit of this one."

    Pros: 

  • Compression fabrics hold everything in 
  • Swimwear made from sustainable materials
  • On-trend styles
  • Cons: 

    Save X Fenty

    Savage X Fenty Going Platinum Long Robe

    Sizes: XS-4XLAverage price point: $15-$100

    "I feel cozy yet luxurious in my Savage X Fenty robes," says Loper. The brand offers loungewear, sleepwear, lingerie and more, "I've purchased so many items over the years, I look forward to using my $50 credit each month with my VIP rewards." As a subscriber or VIP, members pay a monthly fee, which goes toward new purchases, and you also get special deals and promotions.

    Pros

  • Reasonable price points
  • Diverse and fashion-forward styles
  • Cons: 

  • You have to pay a monthly subscription for discounts
  • Sizes: 4XS-4XLAverage price point: $46-$188

    "Universal Standard is an amazing brand to shop for basics and they are one of the most inclusive brands on the market with clothing that goes up to a size 40," says Nichole. "I'd also recommend Target for wardrobe basics with solid quality at a great price point. I've worked with them on sponsorships and some of the in-house brands I like best are Ava & Viv and Universal Thread."

    Pros: 

  • Styles on a variety of fit models
  • High quality items that are reasonably priced 
  • Cons: 

  • Larger sizes frequently sell out 
  • Sizes: 00-26Average price point: $44-$129

    "In my twenties, I struggled finding a pair of dress pants that also made me feel confident. They always gapped or pulled across my hips, or bunched when I sat down," says Wyrick. "Slacks tend to be more of an investment, so it was hard to make a purchase that I didn't feel good in. Athleta has a variety of pants that take you to from work to happy hour, from workouts to brunch, in sizes from 00-26." The look and fit, she says, "is chic comfort in one."

    Pros: 

  • Work-wear is comfortable and stylish 
  • Wide variety of looks for every fashion aesthetic
  • Cons: 

  • Some pieces are expensive
  • Editor's Pick

    GIA/irl

    Gia/irl Alaia Top

    Sizes: 10-28Average price point: $84-$164

    Created by plus-size model Gia Sinatra, the newly launched mid-size to plus-size range offers stylish formal wear, including two-piece sets and dresses that you can wear day or night. "I always reach for my GIA/irl pieces whenever I have a special event—they make an elegant statement," says Loper.

    Pros

  • Available for mid-size and plus-size figures
  • Unique styles
  • Cons: 

  • Some pieces are expensive
  • What To Consider For The Best Mid- And Plus-Size Clothing

    Material: The best advice for any type of garment is to look for high-quality fabrics that will last. Cotton and denim hold up well and come in a variety of weights and weaves for different levels of breathability. If you'd like pieces with a bit more stretch, consider lyrca, a synthetic fabric with elastane. For durability, polyester has incredibly strong fibers and helps create structure to retain the shape of your garments.

    Fit: The best way to optimize the fit of your garment is to know your measurements, says professional stylist McKenzie Crouch. "Definitely keep a tape measure around for online purchases," she says. But, she adds, it's sometimes more important to focus on the fit of the item. "Many women, regardless of size, get caught up in the numerical size of a garment and won't even consider a style if it requires them to go up in size," she says. "I always encourage women to improve the fit regardless of the number."

    Return Policy: Mid- or plus-sizes at one brand can vary greatly among brands. A size 20 in one store may fit you perfectly, but it may be too tight in another one. With this in mind, it's always a good idea to confirm the return policy before you click to buy.

    Frequently Asked Questions About Mid- And Plus-Size Clothing What is the difference between mid-size and plus-size clothing?

    Mid-size labels are relatively new, but Crouch categorizes "mid-size" as sizes between 10-16. For plus-size clothing, most brands categorize sizes 18-24 or 1X-6X.

    Which brand is good for plus-size?

    All plus-size and mid-size bodies are different—like with any clothing store, sizes vary from place to place. Shopping with brands that carry two sizes smaller and larger than your standard size is best, just in case you have to size up or down. That said, sizing up and down will only sometimes be an option—when you can't, look for items that have some stretch, this allows you to have more wiggle room when it comes to finding the right size for you.

    What's flattering for plus-size and mid-size women?

    The term flattering can be associated with attempting to look smaller, so wear what makes you feel good on the inside and out, not what makes you look like something or someone else. Search for pieces that make you feel comfortable and confident; you will look and feel the same way.

    Do luxury brands make plus-size clothing?

    Yes, several luxury brands make plus-size clothing. One retailer offering a mix of plus-size luxury designers is 11 Honoré, which is featured above, and includes pieces from Roland Mouret, Baacal and Tanya Taylor. Another luxury brand is Henning, which specializes in elevated closet staples like soft cashmere sweaters and heavyweight leather jackets. Unfortunately, the large majority of European luxury brands don't offer sizes above 46, which is equivalent to a US size 14.

    What are the hardest items to find in extended sizing?

    Crouch has found while working with plus-size clients and listening to their shopping challenges, the biggest issue is having access to stylish clothing. Many plus-size brands offer basics or staples, but on-trend options are much more difficult to get your hands on. "Additionally, many brands don't keep plus-size options in store for easy try on," Crouch explains.

    More Size-Inclusive Clothing Brands For Women
  • Anthropologie: For basics, evening attire, or wedding guest dresses, Anthropologie offers a mix of staples at moderate prices, available in sizes up to 3XL.
  • Fashion To Figure: For those who like to be on the latest trends, Fashion To Figure offers styles for sizes XL to 4XL and is constantly adding unique items to the mix, from maxi dresses to printed blazers.
  • Girlfriend Collective: This sustainably-minded brand has sizes that extend up to 6XL and emphasizes recycled materials in their line of basics that include sweatpants, tops and tees, leggings, lingerie and swimsuits.
  • Mango: With sizing up to 4XL, UK-based brand Mango has fashion-forward core essentials, including trench coats, motorcycle jackets and more.
  • Nike: For sports apparel and athleisure in inclusive sizes, Nike is a favorite among fitness and fashion influencers, especially for leggings and sports bras.
  • Nina Parker Collection: Media journalist Nina Parker collaborated with Macy's to create eye-catching pieces for the plus-size community. She offers a mix of brights and neutrals with a combination of silhouettes for different shapes and figures, available in sizes 1XL to 4XL.
  • Parade: You'll find mid-size and plus-size lingerie, undergarments and loungewear here, that help women not only look good but feel good. Also great: This brand actively donates to support women's reproductive rights.
  • Torrid: Torrid is a pioneer in the plus-size community for plus-size and mid-size staples with a mix of trend-driven pieces. They are known for their size-inclusive jeans, bras, tops and other basics. They also provide wide calf and extended shoes, from knee-length boots to sneakers.
  • Wray NYC: This environmentally-conscious brand has extended sizes up to 6XL and focuses on classic designs that you can wear over and over, and won't tire of easily.
  • Amour781: This company was founded to offer quality designer clothes to a plus-size clientele. You can find brands like NYDJ, Good American and more, all in one place.
  • Henning: Plus-size brand Henning has luxury pieces for almost any occasion. You can find chic closet staples, including structured blazers, cozy cashmere loungewear or simple t-shirts, with sizes ranging from 1XL to 4XL.
  • Tamara Malas: Founded in 2018, Tamara Malas offers fun and colorful styles up to size 36, including dresses, outerwear and more. The sustainably-minded brand partnered with Greenspark to plant a tree for every order placed on their site.
  • forbes.ComNordstrom Rack Coupons20% Off In September 2023Forbes

    The Best Plus-size Dresses For Every Occasion

    1

    I Saw It First Plus Knitted midi dress in zebra print

    1

    I Saw It First Plus Knitted midi dress in zebra print

    Now 40% Off

    Credit: ASOS

    I love a versatile bodycon dress that can be worn day or night. This fun zebra print piece could be styled with chunky boots for an edgy autumnal day look or heels for an evening out. Either way, it's a hit!

    Available in sizes 18 to 24.

    Looking for a bit of glitz? This sequin dress from H&M is here to oblige, and it's giving serious main character energy. Festive party look, sorted.

    Available in sizes XS to XXL.

    3

    ASOS DESIGN Curve Mini fringe tassel wrap dress

    3

    ASOS DESIGN Curve Mini fringe tassel wrap dress Credit: ASOS

    Look no further if you want a fun twist on the classic LBD. This fringe tassel wrap dress is a gorgeous piece for party season.

    Available in sizes 16 to 30.

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    4

    best plus size maxi dress

    ASOS DESIGN Curve Scoop neck dobby maxi dress with raw edge

    4

    best plus size maxi dress

    ASOS DESIGN Curve Scoop neck dobby maxi dress with raw edge Credit: ASOS

    If you don't have a late summer picnic planned, we suggest you plan one ASAP. Firstly, it's important to make the most of the good weather while you still can! And secondly, just think of how good you'll look lounging across the grass in this khaki maxi with a pair of platform sandals and a matching bag.

    Available in sizes 16 to 30

    5

    Simply Be Mono Zip Front Sport Smart Dress

    5

    Simply Be Mono Zip Front Sport Smart Dress Credit: Simply Be

    Looking to elevate your workwear? Simply Be has you covered. This mono zip front dress might just win you the title of best-dressed employee of the month... An award that doesn't exist but definitely should, we think.

    Available in sizes 10 to 32.

    6

    Olivia Rubin Mirabel Pointelle Knit Maxi Dress

    6

    Olivia Rubin Mirabel Pointelle Knit Maxi Dress Credit: Olivia Rubin

    Olivia Rubin is known for designing some of the best bold dresses around. Made to hug the figure while providing a fun twist on a classic silhouette, this knit dress is dopamine dressing heaven.

    Available in sizes XS to XXXL.

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    7

    River Island Plus White Twist Midi Dress

    7

    River Island Plus White Twist Midi Dress Credit: River Island

    River Island has some of the best options for days where you want an outfit that is minimal effort and maximum chic. This white twist midi dress is precisely that.

    Available in sizes 18 to 28.

    8

    ASOS LUXE Curve One shoulder cotton dress with corset detail and ruffles in black

    8

    ASOS LUXE Curve One shoulder cotton dress with corset detail and ruffles in black Credit: ASOS

    If you're looking for a reason to celebrate, we've just that in the form of this corseted cutie. We have a feeling you'll want to show it off as often as you can.

    Available in sizes 16 to 30.

    9

    best orange plus size dress

    H&M+ Crêpe off-the-shoulder dress

    9

    best orange plus size dress

    H&M+ Crêpe off-the-shoulder dress Credit: H&M

    On those days when the sun is shining and life is good, slip into this off-the-shoulder number and shimmy your way through the rest of the day. It's the perfect dress to match your high spirits. *Accompanying smile almost always guaranteed.

    Available in sizes 16 to 34.

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    10

    Lavish Alice Claire Curve Off Shoulder Twist Ponte Midi Dress

    10

    Lavish Alice Claire Curve Off Shoulder Twist Ponte Midi Dress

    Now 61% Off

    Credit: Lavish Alice

    This number will have you date-night ready. Whether that involves dancing the night away with the girls or a more romantic one-on-one affair, all eyes will be right where you want them: on you.

    Available in sizes 20 to 26.

    11

    Mango Wrapped midi dress

    11

    Mango Wrapped midi dress Credit: Mango

    Mango sure does know how to make us dress-loving gals happy. Taking you from an interview to after-work drinks and even date night, this red dress is the bold and bossy statement we love.

    Available in sizes 16 to 26.

    12

    Never Fully Dressed Silver Vegan Leather Kirsty Dress

    12

    Never Fully Dressed Silver Vegan Leather Kirsty Dress Credit: Never Fully Dressed

    It girls are loving the metallic trend right now, that's taking over everything from biker jackets to trousers. But why not switch it up with this fun dress from Never Fully Dressed, instead?

    Available in sizes 6 to 28.

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    13

    best plus size occasion dress

    Olivia Rubin Aubrey pastel ombre silk satin slip dress

    13

    best plus size occasion dress

    Olivia Rubin Aubrey pastel ombre silk satin slip dress Credit: OLIVIA RUBEN

    Rainbow lovers, this one's for you! This ombré slip will look DDG at your next special occasion, or just as good styled with some chunky knee-high boots at a festival.

    Available in sizes 16 to 24.

    14

    ALIGNE Harlin Puff-Sleeve Asymmetrical Midi Dress

    14

    ALIGNE Harlin Puff-Sleeve Asymmetrical Midi Dress Credit: Anthropologie

    Nothing screams fashionista like a puff sleeve dress and chunky boots. This gingham dress by ALIGNE is all you need to achieve that Copenhagen fashion week chic vibe.

    Available in sizes 6 to 22.

    15

    Reformation Alden Knit Dress Es

    15

    Reformation Alden Knit Dress Es Credit: Reformation

    This might just be the perfect LBD - so it definitely won't be around for long. Grab it while you still can.

    Available in sizes 1X to 3X.

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    16

    Oasis Plus Size Mono Contrast Blazer Dress

    16

    Oasis Plus Size Mono Contrast Blazer Dress

    Now 71% Off

    Credit: Oasis Fashion

    We're still very into blazer dresses and the smart feel they bring to minis. We'll be wearing ours to the next dinner we find ourselves at with the partner's parents. HBU?

    Available in sizes 18 to 24.

    17

    ASOS LUXE Curve Floral jacquard bubble plunge dress

    17

    ASOS LUXE Curve Floral jacquard bubble plunge dress

    Now 30% Off

    Credit: ASOS

    You never know when a last-minute wedding invite could have you scrambling to find something appropriate to wear, so why not add this to your wardrobe and save yourself the stress? Chances are you'll want to wear it even when "I do"s aren't involved, tbh.

    Available in sizes 16 to 30.

    18

    Good American Crewneck midi dress

    18

    Good American Crewneck midi dress Credit: Good American

    If you've only ever gone to Good American to get your denim fix, you're going to want to check out the dress section stat. Khloé K's brand has several seriously stunning dresses that go up to a size 32 - this leopard-print beaut included.

    Advertisement - Continue Reading Below

    19

    best plus size polka dot dress

    ASOS DESIGN Curve Textured wrap midi dress in mono spot:

    19

    best plus size polka dot dress

    ASOS DESIGN Curve Textured wrap midi dress in mono spot: Credit: ASOS

    IMO, every wardrobe could use a polka dot dress. So, you might as well get one that is hella sweet and hella versatile at the same time, right? From the office to after-work drinks or even a wedding ceremony, this midi dress has you sorted for basically any event.

    Available in sizes 16 to 30.

    20

    Anthropologie Atsu Bow Maxi Dress

    20

    Anthropologie Atsu Bow Maxi Dress Credit: Anthropologie

    Want to take your party look up a notch? This maxi dress is all you need. Be warned, though. Once you've taken it for its first spin around an evening event, you'll find yourself planning your own just to wear it again.

    Available in sizes 1X to 3X.


    Clothing Sizes: How Vanity Sizing Made Shopping Impossible

    Inside the fight to take back the fitting room

    By Eliana Dockterman

    I have always hated fitting rooms. It's not just that I hate the mirrors meant to trick me into thinking I'm skinnier or the curtains that never close all the way so strangers can glimpse me trying to squirm into too-tight jeans. What I really hate is why I have to go to fitting rooms in the first place: to see if I've distilled my unique body shape down to one magic number, knowing full well that I probably won't be right, and it definitely won't be magic. I hate that I'm embarrassed to ask a salesperson for help, as if it's somehow my fault that I'm not short or tall or curvy or skinny enough to match an industry standard. I hate that it feels like nothing fits.

    And I'm not alone. "What's your size?" has always been a loaded question, but it has become virtually impossible to answer in recent years. The rise of so-called vanity sizing has rendered most labels meaningless. As Americans have grown physically larger, brands have shifted their metrics to make shoppers feel skinnier—so much so that a women's size 12 in 1958 is now a size 6. Those numbers are even more confusing given that a pair of size-6 jeans can vary in the waistband by as much as 6 in., according to one estimate. They're also discriminatory: 67% of American women wear a size 14 or above, and most stores don't carry those numbers, however arbitrary they may be.

    "Insanity sizing," as some have dubbed this trend, is frustrating enough for shoppers who try on clothes in stores. But now that $240 billion worth of apparel is purchased online each year, it has become a source of epic wastefulness. Customers return an estimated 40% of what they buy online, mostly because of sizing issues. That's a hassle for shoppers and a costly nightmare for retailers, who now spend billions covering "free" returns.

    Clearly, modern fashion has a fit problem. And while it does affect men, whose shirts and jeans rarely bear honest measurements, it's a much more sweeping issue for women—not just because we have more clothing options but also because we are more closely scrutinized for what we wear. When we get married or interview for a job or play professional sports or run for President of the United States, we encounter a whole set of standards and expectations. We can be shamed for an outfit that's too slutty, too dowdy, too pricy—take your pick. That's the burden women carry into the fitting room. And when we can't find clothes that fit, let alone clothes we like, it can be infuriating.

    The debate over sizing is an emotional one, especially right now, when so many shoppers are rejecting labels of all kinds, from sexual orientation to gender to, yes, size. For decades, major retailers have generally catered to one (white, slim) consumer even as America has gotten more diverse. Now shoppers are pushing back. They're turning away from stores like Victoria's Secret that market a single way to be sexy. They're demanding that mass-market chains like Forever 21 carry a wider range of sizes in-store. Even celebrities, like Beyoncé and Melissa McCarthy, are calling out high-fashion designers for ignoring the millions of women with curvier figures.

    But underlying it all is the same maddening question: At a time when consumers are more vocal than ever about what they want and need, and retailers are losing money by sticking with the status quo, and tech companies have streamlined every other part of the shopping process, why is it still so hard to find clothes that fit? And what, if anything, can be done about it?

    I'm inside an office closet in San Francisco holding two different dresses, both made by the same brand, both labeled size "small." They've been handed to me by Ruth Hartman, the chief merchandising officer of Le Tote, a startup that measures clothing from major brands in order to recommend the right fit, rather than just the right size, to customers. When I try on the dresses, it's immediately clear why such a company exists: The first one is tight enough that I struggle to breathe. The second balloons around me.

    Hartman nods knowingly. "It's common," she says. "I always try on four pairs of a size-8 jean in the same brand because they all fit differently." The predicament is so absurd, it sounds like a joke. (In fact, it is one on NBC's upcoming comedy The Good Place, set in a heaven-like locale where there's a boutique called Everything Fits.)

    This madness is partly our own fault. Studies have shown that shoppers prefer to buy clothing labeled with small sizes because it boosts our confidence. So as the weight of the average American woman rose, from 140 lb. In 1960 to 168.5 lb. In 2014, brands adjusted their metrics to help more of us squeeze into more-desirable sizes (and get us to buy more clothes). Over time this created an arms race, and retailers went to extremes trying to one-up one another. By the late 2000s, standard sizes had become so forgiving that designers introduced new ones (0, 00) to make up the difference. This was a workable issue—albeit an annoying one—so long as women shopped in physical stores with help from clerks who knew which sizes ran big and small.

    Then came the Internet. People started buying more clothes online, trying them on at home, realizing that nothing fit, and sending them back. And retailers got stuck with the bills—for two-way shipping, inspection and repair. Now vanity sizing, which was once a reliable sales gimmick, sucks up billions of dollars in profits each year.

    So why don't retailers just stop doing it? In theory, many (or even most) of them could agree to one standardized set of measurements, as mattress companies do, so customers would know exactly what they're getting when they order a "size 12" dress. This tactic, known as universal sizing, is increasingly being discussed on fashion blogs and at industry gatherings as a common-sense solution to America's crisis. But there's a very good reason it won't work. And to understand why, it helps to understand how sizing came to exist in the first place.

    I'm at a boutique in Rome, surrounded by retro-chic clothes that would look right at home in Betty Draper's closet—bold patterns, colorful capes, high-waisted skirts. It feels oddly appropriate, given that I'm here to be measured for a custom dress, something most American women haven't done since the 1950s.

    The designer is Tina Sondergaard, a Danish woman who opened her first store in Rome in 1988. Since then, she says, she has outfitted everyone from hotshot executives to Italian rock stars to a German princess who "drove by on her Vespa, left it in the middle of the street, walked into my shop and said, 'I need that dress.'" By comparison, an American journalist is probably not that exciting. But if Sondergaard is thinking that, it never shows.

    As she takes my measurements, I'm struck by how many choices I have. Do I want to show off my arms or hide them? Do I want to emphasize my waist? My legs? "Back in time, this is what people used to do," Sondergaard tells me, explaining how sizing worked for most of human history. If women were wealthy, they had their clothes made. If they weren't, they made their own. Either way, garments adhered to the contours of their bodies better than anything off the rack ever could.

    In America, those cultural norms started to shift during the Great Depression, when barely anyone could afford to buy food, let alone fabric. At the same time, industrial techniques were improving, making it cheaper for companies to mass-produce clothes. By the end of World War II, those factors—alongside the rise of advertising and mail-order catalogs—had sparked a consumer revolution, both at home and abroad. Made to measure was out. Off the rack was in.

    And sizes arrived. In the early 1940s, the New Deal–born Works Projects Administration commissioned a study of the female body in the hopes of creating a standard labeling system. (Until then, sizes had been based exclusively on bust measurements.) The study took 59 distinct measurements of 15,000 women—everything from shoulder width to thigh girth. But the most consequential discovery by researchers Ruth O'Brien and William Shelton was psychological: women didn't want to share their measurements with shopping clerks. For a system to work, they concluded, the government would have to create an "arbitrary" metric, like shoe size, instead of "anthropometrical measurement[s]."

    So it did. In 1958, the National Institute of Standards and Technology put forth a set of even numbers 8 through 38 to represent overall size and a set of letters (T, R, S) and symbols (+, —) to represent height and girth, respectively, based on O'Brien and Shelton's research. Brands were advised to make their clothes accordingly. In other words: America had research-backed, government-approved universal sizing—decades ago.

    But by 1983, that standard had fallen by the wayside. And experts argue it would fail now too, for the same reason: there is no "standard" U.S. Body type. Universal sizing works in China, for example, because "being plus-sized is so unusual, they don't even have a term for it," says Lynn Boorady, a professor at Buffalo State University who specializes in sizing. But America is home to women of many shapes and sizes. Enforcing a single set of metrics might make it easier for some of them to shop—like the thinner, white women on whom O'Brien and Shelton based all of their measurements. But "we're going to leave out more people than we include," Boorady says.

    Then again, the majority of American women are being left out right now.

    I'm in a fitting room at Brandy Melville in New York City, a few steps from a sign promising that "one size fits most." At this store, there are no sizes—just racks of sweatshirts, crop-tops and short-shorts whose aesthetic could be described as Coachella-meets-pajamas. Many of Brandy Melville's teen and tween fans love this approach, in part because they can all try on the same clothes.

    For me, it's a mixed experience. I'm 5 ft. 9 in. And, though we've already established sizing is meaningless, the clothes in my closet are mostly sizes 4 or 6. But when I try on the stretchy shorts and skirts, the fit is so tight it feels like I'm wearing underwear. Immediately I understand why critics say this store fuels body-image issues.

    Brandy Melville denies it's exclusionary. "Anyone can come in the store and find something," its visual manager, Sairlight Saller, told USA Today in 2014 (the retailer declined to comment for this article). "At other places, certain people can't find things at all." The first statement is patently false: no one store can fit every human body. But the second is spot-on. Some of Brandy Melville's looser tops did fit me, and they could fit women who are much curvier than I am. Most retailers largely disregard the latter demographic.

    This is a confounding business policy. The majority of American women wear a size 14 or above, which is considered "plus size" or "curvy" in the fashion industry. And they're spending more than ever. In the 12-month period ending in February 2016, sales of plus-size apparel hit $20.4 billion, a 17% increase over that same period ending in February 2013, according to the market-research firm NPD Group.

    And yet, the plus-size market is treated as an after-thought. Nearly all advertising campaigns feature thin models. Most designers refuse to make plus-sized clothing. Some retailers have even launched plus-size brands only to kill them several years later, as Limited parent L Brands did with Eloquii (which was sold and relaunched by private investors after an outcry from consumers).

    For shoppers, the message is inescapable: if you're over a certain size, you don't belong. "It's like we've been taught we all should have third eyes, and if you don't have a third eye, what's wrong with you?" says McCarthy, the Emmy-winning actress who has been "every shape and size under the rainbow" and is currently a size 14. "If you tell people that long enough, in 30 years everyone's going to go, 'You see that one? She's only got two eyes.'" In stores, she adds, the plus-size sections are often relegated to obscure areas, like the corner or on a different floor, if they exist at all. "If I have a friend who is a size 6, we can't go shopping together. They literally segregate us. It feels like you're going to detention when you go up to the third floor."

    McCarthy isn't the only shopper speaking out. Earlier this year, blogger Corissa Enneking, who calls herself a "happy fatty," wrote a viral open letter to Forever 21 after encountering a plus-size section she describes as shoved into a corner "with yellow lights, no mirrors, and zero accessories." "Your reckless disregard of fat people's feelings is shameful," she continued. (At the time, Forever 21 said this wasn't an "accurate representation" of its brand.) Even Beyoncé, now considered an icon in the fashion world, has been vocal about how hard it is for women with curves to find clothes. Designers "didn't really want to dress four black, country, curvy girls," she has said of her early years with the group Destiny's Child. "My mother was rejected from every showroom in New York."

    Clothing companies say that it's hard for them to make and stock larger sizes because it requires more fabric, more patterns and more money. That's all technically true, says Fiona Dieffenbacher, who heads the fashion-design program at the Parsons School of Design. "But if you have the volume of a big brand, it's a no brainer. You're going to get the sales." The more complicated issue, argues SUNY Buffalo State's Boorady, is that most designers still equate "fashionable" with "skinny." "They don't want to think of their garments being worn by plus-size women," she says.

    Slowly, those biases are breaking down. Victoria's Secret, for example, is attempting to rebrand itself to emphasize comfort and authenticity ("No padding is sexy," a recent ad declares) after one of its competitors, Aerie, generated considerable buzz—and sales—by using models with rolls, cellulite and tattoos. Nike is using a plus-size model to sell sports bras. H&M is expanding its plus-size collection. And designers are starting to embrace a broader array of body shapes. (Consider Christian Siriano's collection with Lane Bryant and McCarthy's line, Seven7, which offer extensive plus-size options.) This is how fashion is supposed to work, says Sondergaard, the Danish dressmaker. "Many designers say, This is the dress, let's try to fit people into this. But it's the opposite: You look at people, and say, Let's try to fit a dress for this body."

    Even as sizing becomes more inclusive, however, confusion persists: "size 20" is just as meaningless as "size 6." And for now, at least, the solution isn't design. It's data.

    [video id=WnDMWIcb ]

    I'm in my apartment in New York, about to open a box that I'm told represents the future of retail. It's come courtesy of Le Tote, the startup I visited in San Francisco. Here's how the service works: I spend a few minutes awkwardly taking my own measurements with a measuring tape. Then I send that information to Le Tote, which runs my actual size—not the arbitrary numerical one—through its massive database of clothing measurements. Days later, I get a box of outfits picked specifically for my body.

    The algorithm behind it all is called Chloe, and it's more encyclopedic than any human salesclerk. In addition to tracking my shape, Chloe can track my likes and dislikes. If I get a pair of boyfriend jeans that hang too loose, for example, I can tell Chloe I don't like that style, even though it technically fits. Next time Chloe will know to size down.

    Online retailers are salivating over technology like this, which may well enable them to win more customers. True Fit, a Boston-based startup with its own database of measurements, works with more than 10,000 brands, including Nordstrom, Adidas and Kate Spade. Its algorithm asks shoppers to enter the size and brand of their best-fitting shoe, shirt, dress, etc.; then it recommends products accordingly.

    These services aren't perfect. Le Tote, for instance, doesn't yet offer petite and plus-size options, nor do many of the brands that work with True Fit. And it's hard to predict personal style. As True Fit co-founder Romney Evans puts it, "You can have someone who technically fits into a horizontally striped jumpsuit but hates Beetlejuice." To its credit, though, Chloe found clothes that worked well for my body. When I opened the Le Tote box, almost everything fit.

    So, are we close to solving the sizing crisis? Yes and no. Startups like True Fit and Le Tote are certainly taking steps in the right direction, cutting through the chaos of Internet shopping to offer clear, actionable intel. Ditto brands like Aerie and designers like McCarthy, who are proving that it's good business to push the boundaries of traditional sizing.

    There are many other entities trying to start a retail revolution. Among them: Body Labs, which creates 3-D fit models of the human body; Amazon, which recently patented a True Fit-like algorithm; Gwynnie Bee, which offers a clothing subscription service for plus-size women; and Fame & Partners, which allows shoppers to design their own dresses. It's too early to tell which ones will succeed.

    But even if all of them flourish and sizing becomes radically inclusive and transparent, there's no guarantee that we—the shoppers—will like what we see in the mirror. Vanity sizing works because, deep down, we're all a little vain. And no matter how many strides it makes, the fashion industry can't change its raison d'être: to make us feel like better versions of ourselves, one outfit at a time. Sometimes, that requires deception. Often, it drives us crazy. That's why I hate fitting rooms—until I find something I love. •

    Graphic sources: Lynn Boorady, SUNY Buffalo State; ASTM International; Getty Images; People magazine; NPRPhotos: Twiggy, Kaling: Getty Images; Collins: AP; Winfrey: Dave Allocca—DMI/The LIFE Picture Collection/Getty Images

    Correction: The original version of this story mischaracterized the number of partners/collaborators of the startup True Fit. As of August, the company works with more than 10,000 brands.








    This post first appeared on Women's Tour, please read the originial post: here

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