All Hail The Smart Coat Revival – The Puffer Has Finally Puffed Its Last
The puffer coat is finally running out of puff. The quilted nylon outerwear that has dominated parks and playgrounds for five winters is set to be challenged by "the return of the smart coat", according to some of the biggest names on the British high street.
John Lewis, who caused uproar by calling time on the floral midi-length dress in February, is once again leading the charge. "We are moving away from the puffer to the smart coat," said Queralt Ferrer, fashion director of John Lewis, at a showcase of autumn collections this week. "Tailored coats are more flexible, because they can be dressed up or down – a puffer coat is always casual."
The John Lewis Anyday toffee-coloured coat will be on sale in September for £68. Photograph: Raatchi's/John LewisA toffee-coloured, clean-lined wool coat with traditional button fastenings from the John Lewis Anyday range will be on sale in September for £68. "We know people are very conscious of budget right now – it is important to show that smart coats can be affordable."
There will still be five puffer coats on the John Lewis shop floor, "just like we still have floral dresses. It is not about cancelling what women want," noted Ferrer. (John Lewis's bestselling dress for spring was a floral print – but a bold, abstract graphic rather than a ditsy blossom.)
The smart coat revival is also taking off at Boden, where bold tailored outerwear are winter's scene-stealers. Silhouettes are classic, but styles include a pink and khaki dogstooth and a lemon and camel chessboard check. "We really leaned into our British heritage this season," says Boden's womenswear head, Lucy Rosenberg. "It felt the time was right for heritage wools, as well as velvets and cords in bright colours."
H&M Studio, the high street giant's limited-edition elevated range, which employs Savile Row pattern cutters in an all-female atelier, has made a full-length Italian wool tailored coat with sharp shoulders and a moulded waist a key piece for autumn. "It is constructed to hold a silhouette, not to slouch on to the body," says H&M's head of design, Ann-Sofie Johansson.
An off-shoulder red puffer coat by Balenciaga during Paris fashion week womenswear fall-winter 2016-17. Photograph: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho/GettyThe decline of the puffer is surprisingly big news in fashion. Quilted, down-filled and padded coats have been a seasonal phenomenon since 2016 when, in a rare crossover between wearability and high fashion, Balenciaga showed an off-shoulder version in bright red on the catwalk. The puffer swiftly trickled down to Urban Outfitters, M&S and Uniqlo, whose lightweight version became the most visible coat on the high street from 2018 onwards, morphing more recently into the "quilted school-run coat" – slimmer and more like an eiderdown than a duvet – as seen at Arket, Whistles and Cos.
Balenciaga aside it is hard to pinpoint the exact moment the puffer became a thing. Some blamed gorpcore, the hiking-wear trend in which Columbia coats infiltrated cities as well as mountains, for its success. Others simply credit it to trend fatigue – cottoning on to this, Patagonia advocated the idea of a coat-for-life with its "Don't buy this jacket" campaign. Even Theresa May's got it on the look, wearing a Herno coat that grabbed headlines for its £750 price tag rather than its silhouette.
The puffer coat long predates Balenciaga, of course, emerging in 1936 with Eddie Bauer's goose down-insulated quilted jacket, which he designed for fishing trips, and took four years to patent. A year later, the couturier Charles James designed a satin quilted jacket to be worn as evening wear to the opera.
It wasn't until the 1970s and Norma Kamali's sleeping bag-inspired coat that the puffer returned to fashion, swiftly followed by the sort of thick, bright technical outdoors jackets worn by the Paninari, a Milanese subculture in the 1980s, who preferred Moncler, Timberland and Best Company. By the 1990s, it was the North Face Nuptse jacket holding court.
A paninaro wearing a Moncler puffer jacket in Milan, Italy, in 1987. Photograph: Egizio Fabbrici/Mondadori Portfolio/GettyDesigned for mountaineering in 1992 it was adopted by young men during freezing New York winters, and then by rappers such as Method Man and LL Cool J, and then eventually by high fashion. While puffers remain one of the most-worn coats – and a key part of the rise of "streetwear" – they have come to transcend age or gender. Everyone, it seems, now has one.
Most puffers however are filled with feathers and down. A new wave of down-free coats is hoping to rectify this – Pangaia make puffer coats from recycled polyester filled with an innovative biodegradable, hypoallergenic insulation made from shredded flowers. Matt and Nat coats are filled with recycled polyester.
But in the end it's about options. John Lewis still plans to stock five styles of puffer, as well as teddy bear coats, waxed jackets and a cream shearling gilet. "It's just about offering more choice" says Ferrer.
Eddie Bauer patent for his quilted jacket from 1940. Photograph: US Patent OfficeEddie Bauer's Skyliner, 1936It's thought Eddie Bauer designed the world's first puffer jacket in 1936, which he then patented in 1940. Called the Skyliner, it was designed after Bauer almost lost his life to hyperthermia while on a fishing trip in mid-winter in Washington. The outer material was quilted and it was filled with goose feathers. A version is still available today.
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Charles James's pneumatic coat, 1937This quilted evening jacket was designed by the Anglo-American designer in 1937 for the wife of an oil magnate. It was cropped and made in cream satin, and the shape and stitching are based on an eiderdown bed quilt, though it's meant to be worn out and about (and was photographed by Harper's Bazaar in 1938). The puffer was called the "pneumatic jacket" and, according to fashion lore, James predicted it would be a one-off.
Norma Kamali's sleeping bag coat. Part of the 'Items: Is Fashion Modern?' at Moma in 2018. Photograph: Nancy Kaszerman/Zuma/AlamyNorma Kamali's sleeping bag coat, 1973In the early 1970s the American designer created a coat that resembled a sleeping bag after going on a camping trip. Kamali made her initial versions using actual sleeping bags stitched together. The focus, she said at the time, was on practicality: in between the two layers she placed a synthetic version of down which creates a vacuum where the cold air exchanges with the wearer's body heat.
Jennifer Aniston wearing the North Face Nuptse in 2006 at Sundance festival. Photograph: George Pimentel/WireImageNorth Face Nuptse jacket, 1992Named after the Khumbu region of the Mahalangur Himal in the Himalayas, and called "outleisure" by North Face's product director, Michael Horsch, a few years ago, the Nuptse jacket was originally designed for mountaineering. But in the late 90s it was adopted by New York youngsters. It's since been worn by everyone from LL Cool J to Jennifer Aniston. In 2021 it became the most-searched fashion item in the world.
Britain's prime minister Theresa May arrives at Downing Street wearing the 'twofer' jacket. Photograph: Hannah McKay/ReutersTheresa May's Herno puffer, 2018Described by this newspaper as the "twofer", the former PM's coat – designed by an Italian brand called Herno – was constructed to look like two jackets, with a funnel neck, cropped sleeves, a quilted lining and sleeve panels for "added layering insulation". It cost £750 and was worn, tellingly, not up an Alpine mountain but on the short walk between No 10 and her car, on budget day no less. Was this the beginning of the end for the puffer? Who can tell?
Our Favourite Quiet Luxury Brands To Have On Your Radar
The RowSHOP THE ROW
The Row is the brand that comes to mind when we talk about quiet luxury. Launched in 2006 by child actors Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, the label has become renowned for its pared-back and anti-trend approach to fashion (even if it starts plenty of trends, and inspires countless copies, itself). From the most exquisite cashmere jumpers to leather sandals and classic wool coats, every piece that The Row produces is made from the highest quality materials and produced to the best standard.
Max MaraSHOP MAX MARA
Another brand known for executing the art of simplicity so well is Max Mara. The Italian fashion giant is most famous for its camel coats (of which it is considered to be the expert) and most of the mainline collections exude quiet luxury – low key, unassuming, but incredibly well made, and designed to last a lifetime.
Loro PianaSHOP LORO PIANA
A brand favoured heavily by the costume designers on Succession, Loro Piana is a great example of quiet luxury. Founded in northern Italy in 1924, the fashion house's mission has been to only use the finest materials in its products, and to set the industry standard for quality production, merging technical innovation with traditional craftsmanship. If you're wanting to add to your cashmere collection, head here now.
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Brunello CucinelliSHOP BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
Brunello Cucinelli is another label which has embraced the absolute best in Italian craftsmanship, and has become known for its elevated basics. Originally launched in 1977 as a cashmere business, the brand now caters to men and women with full collections, and is all about timeless design.
Bite StudiosSHOP BITE STUDIOS
At the slightly more affordable end of the quiet luxury scale is the Stockholm-based, sustainable label Bite Studios, a brand launched by husband-and-wife duo Veronika Kant and William Lundgren. Prioritising fabric first, the brand uses only the best quality organic materials, and creates collections that are elevated but totally timeless. They work with a creative collective meaning that everything is produced in small batches, limiting waste, and allowing for pieces to be hand-finished.
ToveSHOP TOVE
Another relatively affordable label (in the world of quiet luxury that is) – which prioritises expertly-executed, timeless pieces – is Tove, a British brand that made its debut on the London Fashion Week calendar in February to much critical acclaim. Despite being incredibly Instagram friendly, Tove's designs are refined and elegant, and all about that subtle approach to style.
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TotemeSHOP TOTEME
Another Instagram-famous label which has rebranded capsule classics in recent years is Toteme – a Swedish brand which prides itself on timeless designs and meticulous design. Loved by influencers and fashion editors alike, Toteme is the placed to go for chic tailoring, slinky slip dresses and those cult quilted jackets.
Jil SanderSHOP JIL SANDER
German designer Jil Sander was one of the biggest influences on fashion's love of minimalism, and the label is therefore a great name to know when it comes to quiet luxury. Now helmed by designers Luke and Lucie Meier, the house has been stepping slightly away from this aesthetic recently (see its print-heavy AW23 collection for reference), but is still known as the place to go for refined elegance.
Gabriela HearstSHOP GABRIELA HEARST
Gabriela Hearst prides herself on creating "honest luxury" where she prioritises sustainability, putting out collections that are designed to be worn forever. With expert craftsmanship and high-quality sustainable materials at the core of every single piece, the result is always elevated, timeless pieces.
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KhaiteSHOP KHAITE
While you wouldn't describe anything that Khaite puts out as basic, the New York label – founded by Catherine Holstein – is beloved for its ability to take classic pieces and elevate them. From polished accessories to its cult cardigans and easygoing eveningwear, Khaite is a label that any quiet luxury fan will have hanging in her wardrobe.
20 Coats From The Nordstrom Anniversary Sale To Buy Now & Wear Later
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OK, it might seem weird to discuss fall outerwear when temps across the country are scorching. But when you think about it, it's actually kind of sensible, especially with major deals coming straight out of the Nordstrom Anniversary Sale. Before you know it, blustery fall days will have you browsing your closet for something to keep you warm and cozy, so the time to get that autumnal (and winter) wardrobe ready is now.
When Is the Nordstrom Anniversary Sale?If you're a Nordstrom card member, you get first dibs on the major discounts online. Icon members (who spent $15,000 or more with their Nordstrom card) gain access to the sale on July 11. Ambassadors (who spent $5,000 or more) can start shopping on July 12 and Influencers (who spent $500 or more) can begin on July 13. Everyone else can shop the major sale starting on July 17. (If you want early access to all the sweet deals on beauty, designer bags, home decor and more in the future, sign up for The Nordy Club today.) Here's the deal:
What Are the Best Fall Coat Deals During the Nordstrom Anniversary Sale?Whether you're looking for a blazer for the office, a leather jacket for a weekend stroll or a peacoat for those late-fall nights when you can feel winter creeping closer, we've got you covered. First, you'll want to peek at the top brands from the retailer. We're talking: Barbour, Levi's, Treasure & Bond and so forth. These brands have the warmest, stylish and downright trendiest coats for the coming seasons.
Speaking of trends, we've already predicted a few that will likely continue through the end of this year, including shades of green, bomber jackets and long wool coats. If you need more guidance, here are the top five fall coats you need to add to your wardrobe:
Now, are you ready to find the coat(s) of your dream? We compiled a list of the cutest and coziest fall outerwear you can snag from the Nordstrom Anniversary Sale, starting July 11.
I'm a Fashion Editor and These are My Top 25 Picks from the Nordstrom Anniversary Sale
Nordstrom
Ralph Lauren has truly perfected the art of designing outerwear that will keep you warm and cozy without sacrificing an ounce of style. We're especially fond of this parka for its 33-inch length, diamond-quilted design and signature logo patch that adds a little flare. It's also got a fixed hood with a snap throat latch for extra coverage and protection from the elements.
Buy It ($230; $130)
Nordstrom
Nothing makes an outfit cooler than a soft-as-butter, leather moto jacket. This design has all of the elements that make the piece so iconic, from the classic silver hardware to the notched lapels and slanted pockets. It also hits right above the waist, a length that looks oh-so fabulous with some high-waist, wide-leg jeans or trousers. Shoppers say the stylish outerwear is very flattering, comfortable and stretchy.
Buy It ($499; $330)
Nordstrom
It's a widely known fact that the royals love Barbour—whether on Princess Diana in the '80s or on Kate Middleton in present day. Times may change, but the brand remains adored. It's even rumored that the Queen herself has owned her favorite waxed Barbour coat for over 25 years—talk about durable and long-lasting. This lightweight quilted jacket comes in an olive green hue with glossy buttons and a classy corduroy collar. Let's not forget it's lined for warmth and features distinct front pockets for all the essentials. With the coat on impressive sale, now you can feel like royalty for a fraction of the price.
Buy It ($350; $250)
Nordstrom
The rich brown color of this double-breasted coat paired with the ultra-soft faux shearling trim is straight out of our fall fashion fantasies, with a '70s throwback twist. (It's giving Penny Lane from Almost Famous, and we are here for it.) We can see it working wonderfully as temperatures drop, and its timeless design will be in style for many autumns to come.
Buy It ($350; $200)
Nordstrom
A blazer is a style staple that every working gal needs. If you find yourself in search of one, we recommend this classic and polished design from Madewell. It's designed to be oversize to look effortlessly cool (and give off major quiet luxury vibes) paired with high-waist jeans or flared slacks. It's also made of a stretchy blend of viscose, Tencel lyocell and linen, so you can wear this the entire work day without feeling claustrophobic. Back to business.
Buy It ($178; $119)
Nordstrom
This jacket is lined with recycled polyester, making it lightweight, pillowy-soft and sustainable. Its light material is also ideal for warmer fall days, and the brand is known for athletic wear, so it's essential for morning jogs around the neighborhood, too. Customers note the jacket is a bit oversize, so you can totally add a light sweater underneath for those colder strolls.
Buy It ($169; $113)
Nordstrom
Plaid is a tell-tale sign that fall is near. That coupled with the lightweight fabric of this shirt jacket makes it the perfect early fall wardrobe staple. It's crafted with a blend of polyester, wool and rayon to give it an oversize but comfy fit. Note: It's not lined, so add a chic sweater or T-shirt underneath to avoid feeling itchy.
Buy It ($89; $59)
Nordstrom
The best thing to slip on when you're running over to Starbs to grab a pumpkin spice latte? A denim jacket. The slightly cropped and distressed design of this style from Levi's works so well for warmer fall days.
Buy It ($128; $86)
Nordstrom
Outfits that look straight out of The Matrix are all the rage, and it doesn't get more futuristic than a leather trench coat. We picked this faux leather trench by Avec Les Filles because the glossy hue would look just as sexy in the daytime as it would at night. Add the lengthy cut, cinched waist and water-resistant material and you'll be turning heads and taking names for sure.
Buy It ($199; $110)
Nordstrom
Fleece jackets are the absolute cutest and coziest of fall coats. This one is crafted with 100 percent polyester that's velvety-soft and plush. It's stylish enough to wear on its own, but it's also lightweight enough to layer with another coat on a particularly breezy fall night. We're eyeing the Brown Kona color because it reminds us of an adorably fuzzy teddy bear and gives major retro vibes.
Buy It ($79; $50)
Nordstrom
Here's another royal-approved Barbour jacket to add to your collection. This diamond-quilted cutie, featuring a corduroy collar and a curved hem, embodies the brand's core values of "wit, grit and glamour." Plus, we could totally see Kate Middleton turning heads in this chic zip-up.
Buy It ($280; $200)
Nordstrom
What can we say, plaid has a chokehold on our fall wardrobe. This fleece shacket (aka shirt jacket) is made from 100 percent polyester, which promises to be cozy, comfy and super casual for a crisp fall day. The oversize fit lets you wear it alone or as an additional layer when the weather gets cooler. Plus, it has button cuffs, so you can roll 'em up while you're apple picking.
Buy It ($55; $40)
Nordstrom
This gorgeous wrap coat is cut from a wool, polyester and rayon blend to keep you nice and toasty all season long. Its lengthy design features notched lapels and a removable tie belt as a figure-flattering addition. The material is also water-repellent, so you can forget about getting drenched in fall rain. Bottom line: This is the kind of high-quality coat that'll last decades.
Buy It ($240; $150)
Nordstrom
Hellooooo, effortless elegance. This luxurious find is 100 percent cashmere, so you're set all season long. It has a stand collar, two horn buttons and is lined to add some shape. Whether you pick the black or camel hue, be prepared for a timeless coat you'll turn to time and time again.
Buy It ($1,895; $1,250)
Nordstrom
As mentioned, bomber jackets are on track to be trendy again this coming fall, and we're pining for this one from Treasure & Bond. The suede material mixed with ribbed cuffs, spread collar and an oversize fit makes it perfectly suited for date night or Saturday brunch. FYI: It's made of actual leather, so it's recommended to get it professionally clean to last for more falls to come.
Buy It ($229; $150)
Nordstrom
There are few things worse than being cold and wet. Luckily, jackets like this one from Cole Haan are designed to keep you dry on even the rainiest of fall days. It's fully equipped with a front zip closure, front zip pockets and an adjustable drawcord hood for style and functionality (so you won't have to worry about your hair getting ruined by the elements). One reviewer also mentions that it's easy to fold it up and throw it in a bag without it taking up too much space. Win-win.
Buy It ($300; $150)
Nordstrom
Let's face it: A belt can elevate a classic quilted jacket and this chic outerwear is proof. The belt cinches the waist and accentuates your shape—regardless if you're rocking a pair of jeans or relaxed slacks. Aside from the main accessory (which is also removable btw), the jacket includes snap cuffs, front zip closure and a stand collar that's oh-so chic.
Buy It ($230; $150)
Nordstrom
We had to include a puffer jacket on our list for those almost-winter days. Crafted with 100 percent nylon, this statement-maker is soft, streamlined and stylish—not too bulky for fall, but will still keep you toasty. It also has a voluminous spread collar to give it some oomph, a removable belt to cinch the waist and side pockets to carry any essentials.
Buy It ($240; $160)
Nordstrom
You can never have too many moto jackets in your closet, so adding this suede number to your collection is highly recommended. It's designed with an asymmetrical zip closure, notched lapels and quilted sleeves to give you the edge you need for the season ahead. The waist-length cut also offers a casual flair you need for the beginning of September.
Buy It ($129; $86)
Nordstrom
It doesn't get more flattering than a double-breasted peacoat, especially when it's water-repellent and a waist-length. This wool-blended outerwear also has notched lapels and side pockets for storing all the essential.
Buy It ($220; $140)
The 17 Best Boots to Buy During the Nordstrom Anniversary Sale
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Why Should You Trust UsNathalie Feingold is PureWow's former Affiliate Content Resident. She's always willing to test out the next hot product (her skincare regimen currently includes snail mucin serum), and she's unafraid to try new trends (yes, even low-waisted jeans). She's previously written and edited for magazines in both San Diego and Valencia, Spain. Her ultimate favorite hobby is laying out at the beach with a good book in hand.
Chelsea Candelario is an Associate Editor at PureWow. She has been covering beauty, culture, fashion and entertainment for over a decade. You'll find her searching the internet for the latest beauty trends (and testing the coolest products out herself), informing you on ways to be a better ally and offering a native New Yorker perspective on what to do in the Big Apple. When she's not writing, she's spearheading PureWow Cultures that focuses on uplifting and highlighting the BIPOC community.
PureWow is the best friend you never had when it comes to finding the best, most useful lifestyle products online. Founded in 2010, our company's editors and writers have spent more than a decade shopping online, digging through sales and putting our home goods, beauty finds, wellness picks and more through the wringer—all to help you determine which ones are actually worth your hard-earned cash. From our PureWow100 series, which sees each and every item we test being ranked on a 100-point scale of awesomeness, to the painstakingly curated lists our fashion, beauty, cooking, home and family editors create as vertical experts, you can trust that our recommendations include some of the greatest items you'll find on the internet. Whether you're looking for travel-size hair dryers you can take on-the-go or women's walking shoes that won't hurt your feet, we've got you covered.
