All Aboard The Most Extravagant Fashion Cruise

In 1964, John Cheever published a short story called "The Swimmer" in which a seemingly happy suburbanite endeavors to swim his way home across New York's Westchester County, by going from one backyard pool to the next in an odyssey that reveals the truth of his world.

It's a scenario that sprang to mind during the last Cruise (or resort) season, a monthlong series of extravaganzas in far-flung destinations that came to an end last week. It was not hard to imagine fashionistas hieing their way from show to show to show before finally returning home.

They could have started in Los Angeles with Chanel on May 9, moved on to Seoul with Gucci, on to Mexico City for Dior, then to northern Italy for Louis Vuitton (which had confusingly held a separate pre-fall show in Seoul just a few weeks before) and Alberta Ferretti, ending in Rio de Janeiro on June 1 with Carolina Herrera. Many of them may have been treated to their trips by the brands themselves (The New York Times does not accept press trips, so yours truly watches the shows on the computer), caravanning around the globe as if the pandemic was a speck in the rearview mirror.

In other words, despite all the lip service paid in recent seasons to reducing the excesses of fashion, this was one of the most mileage-intensive, blowout seasons on record, one that widened the gulf between the mega-brands that can orchestrate such spectacles and the rest of the industry.

Each brand, it seemed, was trying to one-up the others in offering "experiences" complete with dinners and famous guests dressed to the nines, selfie-ing away in extraordinary places: Jaden Smith, Eileen Gu and Emma Stone at Isola Bella, Italy, the Borromeo family's private island (Vuitton); Naomi Watts, Alicia Keys and Riley Keough at the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso, once the school where Frida Kahlo studied and met Diego Rivera and now a museum (Dior); Kristen Stewart, G-Dragon and Sofia Richie at the Paramount Studios lot (Chanel).

Rarely has it been so clear that when it comes to fashion, there is now so much more at stake than just clothes.

It's About Content, Baby

The sheer fact that the press notes for Gucci's fashion fantasia in the 14th-century Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul contained not just a description of the "dialogue between the house's own heritage and the electrifying South Korean impact that influences it today" but also a 36-page document detailing the celebrities and "KOLs" (key opinion leaders) in attendance along with their Instagram, Twitter and TikTok followings, pretty much said it all.

The collection itself, a wetsuits-meets-the-bourgeoisie hybrid of neoprene, logos, suiting and chiffon created by an anonymous team because Gucci's new designer, Sabato De Sarno had not yet arrived, was significantly less striking than the idea that more than 350 million IG followers were granted secondary access to the experience through the postings of the lucky few actually in attendance.

In other words, the show allowed the brand to have its exclusivity — to flex its power, ability to access a historic site that had never before hosted a fashion show and taste — and advertise it widely too.

Not to mention court a market that is increasingly important, as K-pop takes over the world and China proves increasingly complicated politically. What better way to show respect, after all, than to go to the source?

That's also partly why Wes Gordon decided to take his first-ever Carolina Herrera cruise show, a bouquet of polka dots, juicy florals and cha-cha frills, to Brazil, in a nod to both the brand's Latin roots as well as the country's voracious appetite for beauty and fragrance.

Also Cultural Cross-pollination

Of course, the destination show also brings other benefits — like inspiration. Designers have to produce so many collections, so often, that coming up with new ideas every season is pretty much a Sisyphean task. One advantage, then, of the traveling collection is that it comes with a built-in set of potential new ingredients based on paying "homage" to the culture and geography where a brand lands. This is both a necessary show of appreciation in the era of cultural appropriation, though one that can seem more expedient than long-lasting and authentic, and thematically useful.

Maria Grazia Chiuri of Dior, in particular, had made a virtue of the trend, positioning her cruise shows as platforms to showcase the work of local artisans and using her power to argue, at least for a season, that skills that have often been dismissed as "craft" deserve the same respect as couture. As a result, she has created a specific identity and reason for being for the Dior cruise collections that no other brand has quite managed.

This season was no different, with six different expert weavers and artisanal groups invited to contribute their work to classic Dior shapes like the Bar jacket; lacy petticoat shirtdresses; and filigree gowns (and to sit in the front row at the show). For a grand finale, designed by the Mexican artist and activist Elina Chauvet, there was a set of 20 white dresses — muslin toiles, taken from the brand's archives — embroidered in blood red with hearts and words meant to represent the violence visited on women, their fragility and strength. It was jarring but also unexpectedly effective.

Another kind of conceptual liberation was on view in Nicolas Ghesquière's Louis Vuitton show, which was weird in the best possible way: a bizarro amalgamation of sea creature silhouettes, sci-fi royalty and romance sparked perhaps by the island site but not limited by it. It made for a persuasive argument for getting designers, literally, out of their comfort zone. Free the imagination!

And Haute Merch

Not that it always works. For Virginie Viard of Chanel, a journey to Los Angeles led to what seemed like thoughts of roller-skating on the Venice boardwalk, "Barbie" (Margot Robbie was in attendance), aerobics and related clichés, including palm trees, playsuits and bubblelicious bouclé so saccharine it made the jaw clench. Ms. Viard can lean casually into the soignée — see one shimmery, simple tank top with a wisp of a black skirt — when she isn't trying so blindingly hard to be hip, but this was one case when going further afield meant going astray.

Blink in surprise, however, at a particularly lurid aqua warm-up suit and simply cast your eyes somewhere else: to the bright lights and snack carts and movie stars and later a performance by Snoop Dogg. The show around the show was so fabulous, the fact that so much of the collection was more souvenir kitsch than chic was washed away in the rush of fame and fun.

And that, in the end, is the crux of this particular fashion phenomenon. That's the memory dangled, and designed, for purchase. Like any piece of concert merch, these collections tap into the atavistic urge to own a sign that you were there.

Or there-ish.

New Luxury Cruise Ship Requires Loose-fitting Clothes

The trend back to tableside service has not escaped Oceania – there are more trolleys than at your local supermarket, whether it's for mixing a caesar salad, presenting a selection of oils and vinegars for your bread basket or carving a giant piece of beef. They make an appearance at afternoon tea of course, with their many levels of savouries, scones and cakes, and in the bars too where you can select a glass of champagne from the Bubbly Bar or a single-malt whisky from the Macallan cart.

Where things get even more interesting however is in Vista's three new launches: Aquamar Kitchen, Ember and The Bakery.

Aquamar Kitchen is themed around "wellness", with lighter dishes such as avocado toast, omelettes and raw-tuna tacos. There are cold-pressed juices and smoothies, zero-alcohol wines from French brand Pierre Chavin, and non-alcoholic cocktails featuring Lyre's spirits. With its airy feel, large communal table and open-plan kitchen, you almost expect to see Bill Granger popping up with some scrambled eggs. Aquamar is always buzzing during our seven-day voyage – clearly we aren't the only ones trying to compensate for the previous night's tomahawk steak and fully loaded jacket potato.

Ember restaurant's design could be described as Succession Farmhouse.Credit: Trudi Jenkins

Meanwhile Ember, while still geared towards American tastes with crowd-pleasing grills, lobster mac 'n' cheese and key lime cheesecake, feels less gentleman's club than the Polo Grill. The fitout, which could be described as "Succession Farmhouse", includes an open-flame design feature (gas-powered on a cruise ship obviously), wooden tables, black-and-white artworks and plenty of leather and marble. Alongside the ribs and rib-eyes you'll find roasted beetroot salad, Atlantic salmon and herb-crusted chicken with couscous.

But to my favourite hangout on this trip: The Bakery, a dangerous innovation whereby pastries appear warm from the oven every 30 minutes. It's within Baristas cafe, already a seductive operation serving well-made Illy coffee and negronis on tap. With 24 chefs looking after bread and patisserie around the clock, you'll find everything from quiche to mini sandwiches, doughnuts to eclairs, all made using French flour and butter and in modest Parisian sizes that mean you can always justify adding more than one to your plate.

Fresh from The Bakery.Credit: Trudi Jenkins

Play

As a newly minted cruiser (Vista is my second voyage) and being predisposed to FOMO, I find daily decision-making around activities challenging. These ships offer a lot of options on board, and that's long before you factor in the excitement of arriving at a new port most mornings.

Looking at the Currents newsletter (delivered to the stateroom each afternoon for the following day), I can at least rule out the trivia sessions (no desire to broadcast my lack of sporting, literary and musical knowledge to a wider audience) and evenings at the casino (no need to lose any more money given current mortgage repayments).

However, a visit to the Aquamar Spa & Vitality Centre, Oceania's first purpose-built wellness sanctuary, does have my name on it. Anyone can book a treatment in one of the 11 luxe rooms (and snooze afterwards in the relaxation area), or use the steam room or sauna, but only Concierge Level (and above) guests can access the peaceful spa terrace with its day beds, thalassotherapy pool, outdoor shower and expansive sea views. You can also try the bougie beauty salon for a pedi with a panorama – more than double the price of my local in inner-city Sydney but definitely worth it for those soothing ocean vistas from the comfort of the reclining leather armchair (with integrated foot spa, natch).

Meanwhile, the main pool deck has a livelier vibe with beach-club-style cabanas, a generous number of sun-loungers across two levels (no need to panic about reserving one before breakfast), two circular spa pools, a bar (Mai Tai please) and table tennis. The natural colour palette (wood, white, sand and green) is stylish and if the soundtrack veers towards Ibiza you can spend a very chilled time here.

Unwind at sea: A rendering of one of Oceania Vista's many areas for relaxation.

If you're of a more active persuasion (and I admit I set the bar low), there is also a well-equipped fitness centre, an outdoor running track and a sports deck with putting greens and a pickleball court. Unable to report back on these.

As far as shore excursions go, Oceania prides itself on "destination-intensive" itineraries with some overnight visits and extended evening port stays. If you prefer an independent approach over an organised bus tour, this means more time to explore ports at your leisure (just don't be late back to the ship or it may leave without you).

A highlight for us on this trip is an overnight stay in Valletta, Malta, where we mingle with locals, sample pastizzi and discover Casa Rocca Piccola, a 16th-century merchant's house that is open to the public.

We also take the local Bolt taxis (like Uber, and much cheaper than the standard taxis lining the seafront) to venture further afield to the spectacular walled city of Mdina, and buy artisan pottery and glassware at the Ta' Qali crafts village.

Also special is uncrowded Ajaccio in Corsica, the island's capital, where we wander off the ship straight into a new food market that is one of the best I've encountered for great regional produce. We stroll around the pretty, sheltered harbour and handsome streets (just walk a block away from the somewhat touristy main drag), check out the house where Napoleon was born and then, given that it is past midday, pull up a seat at a pavement bar for some rosé and people-watching.

We may not see a multitude of historic sights or gain as much intel from guides as on an official excursion, but it is a great sampling of everyday life on both islands, which is exactly how I like to explore new places.

Sleep

Oceania President Frank A. Del Rio says an excellent night's sleep was a priority in designing Vista's staterooms, and the results are in. Cool, neutral tones combine with quality fittings and (undyed) wool carpet to evoke five-star-hotel luxury.

Supremely comfortable "Tranquility" beds are layered with those wonderfully crisp cotton sheets that are impossible to replicate at home.

Storage space is plentiful and the marble bathroom is generously sized with Bulgari toiletries, feature lighting and even a cleverly designed footrest for shaving your legs in the shower. Concierge Level rooms also include a free laundry service.

One of the ship's solo staterooms.

There's a comfortable seating area but we barely use it as all Vista staterooms have a private verandah that's perfect for a morning cup of tea or a sunset glass of champagne. Of course there's also 24/7 room service, a mini-fridge that's replenished daily and a TV if the Tranquility bed lets you stay awake long enough to watch a movie (doesn't happen).

Newly introduced on Vista and likely to be hugely popular are solo staterooms, featuring all the same inclusions but designed on a narrower footprint for singles (only the bathroom feels squishy). Or, if interest rates aren't biting and you want to feel like you're staying in your very own swish apartment on board, check out the super-luxe Oceania and Vista Suites with their separate living and dining areas, walk-in wardrobes and guest bathrooms.

As to the finest cuisine at sea, returning to the room each night after an excess of eating and drinking, we find little foil squares of dark chocolate on our pillows. Unsurprisingly, the most we can manage at that point is a peppermint tea. And so it is that, arriving back at Heathrow and looking for the salad-leaf-selling supermarket, we comfort ourselves in the knowledge that we have a little stash of those chocolates squirrelled away, just in case of emergency.

THE DETAILS

Oceania Cruises' 'Mediterranean Navigator' 10-day voyage from Rome to Valletta aboard Vista sets sail from 11 April - 21 April 2024. Concierge Level Veranda Suites are priced from AU$9100.See oceaniacruises.Com

Trudi Jenkins travelled as a guest of Oceania Cruises.

FIVE MORE MUST-DOS

Bookish typesThe Library, kitted out in Ralph Lauren Home, is a quiet sanctuary of leather armchairs and wooden bookcases stocked with plentiful reads.

Drink it inWhile both Martinis and Horizons lounge bars are spacious and comfortable, we like the intimacy of the Founder's Bar, where mixologists are on hand to create bespoke cocktails. My brief of gin-based, citrus-forward with a layer of foamy egg-white is nailed.

Theatre actsFrom energetic productions led by US Dancing with the Stars choreographer Britt Stewart to cooking classes in the state-of-the-art Culinary Centre, boredom is not an option.

Get creativeDrop by the Artist Loft to chat with the artist-in-residence or take part in a workshop. You may be able to learn painting, sketching or collage skills.

Between mealsShould you be able to squeeze in a couple more eating experiences, Sunday brunch is an extravaganza of bloody Marys, seafood, French cheese and crepes Suzette. Or there's always traditional afternoon tea (every day in Horizons).

Highlights From The 2024 Cruise Shows

Many designers have chosen to show in plenty of far-flung locations across the globe this season. But, this was not the case for Alberta Ferretti, who shunned a faraway setting and chose a place a little closer to home, and somewhere very close to her heart, the Italian city of Rimini, which is close to where she grew up.

Ferretti paid tribute to her hometown, and another very notable name to have come out of the area, the film director, Federico Fillini, with her cruise 2024 show. The catwalk was erected outside the Castle Sismondo, which is home to the Fellini museum, where locals were able to enjoy the show from their balconies and on the streets, while clips of Fellini films were projected onto the building.

"Fashion and cinema carry two different forms of expression, fashion responding to the needs of humans to express oneself, and cinema story tells, entertains, escapes," the brand explained in its show notes. "Today, Alberta Ferretti, who also hails from Romagna, celebrates both, Rimini and its most illustrious dreamer."

Discover more here.

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