When planning longer drives on road trips, it's always a good idea to make several stops along the way. Road trippers planning to visit all of Canada's Atlantic provinces will need to travel to the town of North Sydney on the northern tip of Nova Scotia's Cape Breton Island to catch a ferry to Newfoundland. Today's post suggests two stops to make as you travel on a Cape Breton Road Trip to the ferries in North Sydney, Nova Scotia.
Plan to spend an hour or two touring St. Peter’s village and canal. The quaint village has restaurants, picnic provisions, and boat rentals. St. Peter's National Historic Site is a worthwhile stop to stretch your legs and explore a unique site. With good timing, visitors can watch as boats move through the lock system between the lake and the ocean.
Another stop good for an hour or two of exploration is Glace Bay, a former coal mining town and site of some of the worst strikes in Canada's coal mining history.
Cape Breton Rte 4 to North Sydney Ferries Road Trip
The only road crossing from the mainland of Nova Scotia to Cape Breton Island is over the bridge at the Canso Crossing. Once on the Cape Breton side, road trippers will decide to travel north along Rte 104 or Rte 4.
The quickest and most efficient way to North Sydney is via Rte. 104, which passes through the town of Baddeck (see my Baddeck post here) to the west of Bras d'Or Lake. Those travellers who choose to stay in Baddeck while exploring Cape Breton may want to visit the two communities in this post as day trips.
The less-travelled route described in this post follows Rte 4, skirting the eastern side of the lake. This route adds an additional hour to the drive (not including stops).
St. Peter's on the Canal
As frequently happens on road trips, I found this community by chance. I was following Rte. 4 only because I have a friend who lives in a teeny, tiny community along the highway whom I was planning to visit before catching a ferry to Newfoundland. An attractive roadside sign caught my eye, so I decided to make a stop and check it out.
Back in the 1630s, French merchants set up a little fortified town called Saint Pierre in Cape Breton. It was a strategic location on a narrow bit of land between the Atlantic Ocean and the Bras d'Or Lake. Nicholas Denys saw the potential for fur trading, so he got cozy with the local Mi'kmaq and began trading European goods for their furs. This trade relationship was so beneficial that an old portage trail was converted into a skidroad to drag Denys' ships across the land.
After a fire wiped out everything in 1668, the fur traders left. The Mi'kmap returned to their traditional lives until Acadian settlers moved in during the early 1700s. Port Toulouse became the supply centre for nearby Louisbourg Fortress for several decades until the British took over in the middle of the 1700s. The village of St. Peter's was established as trade increased, and Denys' old road was again used to haul ships across the isthmus.
While dragging the ships worked, it was apparent that it wasn't an easy or elegant solution. In the mid-1800s, a canal was proposed. This massive project took 15 years to complete. Several more upgrades have been made to widen the channel and increase the size of the locks. This became a National Historic Site in 1985. Today, recreational boaters are the most frequent users of the lock system.
St. Peter's Canal National Historic Site
The St. Peter's Canal National Historic Site includes a small shipping canal with a tidal lock, outdoor exhibits, trails, and a nearby village with restaurants and tourism services.
Opening Hours
Closed mid-Dec to mid-April
Shoulder season Mon - Fri 08:00 - 16:00
Summer season daily 08:00 - 18:00
Admission: free
Exhibits along the canal path and around the lockkeeper's station explain the lock's unique construction, which includes double gates with swinging doors that create a diamond shape when closed. Friendly park staff and the lockkeeper were delighted to share stories and explain the lock's workings.
Most locks have a permanent "high" and "low" side, but here, due to the tides of the Atlantic Ocean, the water elevation on the ocean side can be either higher or lower than the lake level. This issue was solved by the lock's unique double gates with swinging doors. When closed, the doors create a diamond shape that compensates for the tidal differences. Outdoor exhibits explain and detail the engineering.
I was excited to learn that a large boat was expected. I was encouraged to explore the trails, visit the local museum, or sit in one of the iconic Parks Canada Red Chairs to enjoy the sunshine and watch the action.
As promised, the yacht arrived from the lakeside and was closely followed by a small sailboat.
The gates closed, and the lock filled, lifting the two boats to the same height as the Atlantic. A bridge at the end of the canal needed to be opened so the tall yacht and the sailboat's mast could sail beneath and out into the Atlantic Ocean.
Glace Bay
Back on the road, drive north on Rte 4. Bypass the town of Sydney by taking Rte 125 northeast and rejoining Rte 4 at Grand Lake Road. Follow the signs to Glace Bay.
Glace Bay is a former coal mining town perched on a barren bluff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. During its peak, Glace Bay was home to eleven mines and employed more than 10,000 people. The coal from Glace Bay accounted for 40% of Canada's production. Those days have long passed, with mining operations slowing to a stop in 1984.
The mine closures and the moratorium on cod fishing almost turned the community into a ghost town. Community determination and government grants have been used to build tourism and other opportunities to revitalize the town, with some success.
Visitors can tour the fascinating Mining Museum to learn about mining processes and the lives of miners and their families. Exhibits tell of violent clashes between mine owners and workers. The background music is recordings from The Men of The Deeps men's choir, which calls the museum home and sings mining songs. Visitors can also climb in a mine car and venture underground into the mines for a close-up experience.
Walk around the museum's exterior to appreciate the size and might of the equipment used in the mines. Museum staff and volunteers are locals eager to ensure every visitor is welcomed and invited to listen to the stories of the families who have lived here for decades. Enjoy a meal at the on-site restaurant. Stop by the gift shop to pick up a unique souvenir.
Opening Hours
Jun 01 - October 15: 10:00 - 18:00 Daily
Off-season: 10:00 - 17:00 Mon - Fri (book underground tour in advance)
Admission: $25
North Sydney Ferry Terminal
It's a short (approximately 35 minutes) drive to the North Sydney Ferry Terminal from Glace Bay. Drive west back along Rte 4, bypass Sydney by joining Rte 125 and continue as it changes to Rte 305 and leads directly to the North Sydney Ferry Terminal. The route signage to the terminal and all directions to navigate through the terminal are very clear. Marine Atlantic provides ferry services. Two routes are available: one goes to Port Aux Basque (7 hours) and the other to Argentia, the closest port to St. John's (16 hours). Passengers must check in at least two hours prior to sailing. Travellers need to pass through a checkpoint at the Canadian Food Inspection Agency Plant Quarantine Station, where root vegetables will need to be disposed of, and the undercarriage of your vehicle will be sprayed.
Travellers may not stay in their vehicles and may want to consider adding a cabin to their reservations, especially if taking the longer route. Reservations are strongly recommended. Sales may be available up to 3 hours before departure, but tickets are scarce on the most popular sailings.
Weather can affect sailings, so make sure your plans are flexible. My return ferry was delayed 48 hours, causing a lack of room in local hotels and inns. Luckily, I had a tent and was able to find a spot at the Argentia campground. When our voyage finally got underway, the waters were still incredibly rough, causing a lot of seasickness amongst my fellow passengers.
Bonus: Other Things to Do and See in Nova Scotia
Louisbourg Fortress, Cape Breton
A little further west along Rte 22 and requiring a full day of exploration is Louisbourg Fortress. Originally a French fishing outpost, Louisbourg became a French Fortress and later a British Fortress. This outstanding living museum is a day trip of its own. For a full description of the Fortress, click here.
A Day on the Cabot Trail, Cape Breton
One of the most beautiful drives in the nation, the Cabot Trail circles northern Cape Breton Island, climbing the coastlines and highlands. A treasure for nature adventurers, this route includes stunning views and a range of trails suitable for almost everyone. To discover what to expect, click this link.
Baddeck, Cape Breton
The heart of Cape Breton, Baddeck is the largest town. Located on the shores of Bras d'Or Lake, Baddeck is the home to the Alexander Graham Bell Museum, a lovely lighthouse, amazing lobster dinners, and more. Baddeck is the place to make your base for exploring Cape Breton. Follow this link for more information.
Halifax, Nova Scotia
The capital city of Nova Scotia has a historic citadel, a lively food and beverage scene, a vibrant waterfront, and summers full of festivals. Check out what to see and do here.
Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia
A tiny fishing village clustered around a cove with one of the most famous lighthouses in all of Canada (and we have a lot of lighthouses!) No visit to Nova Scotia is complete without seeing Peggy's Cove. Check out that post here.
South Shore Drive to Lunenburg, Nova Scotia
A stunning coastal drive featuring hidden harbours, charming coves, adorable towns, lighthouses, and an immersion into Maritime history and culture. Get more information here.
Final Thoughts
As you continue your road trip through the Atlantic provinces, be sure to include a couple of stops on Cape Breton Island for a fascinating glimpse into the area's history and engineering marvels as shared by enthusiastic locals. The locks at St. Peter's Canal and the mines of Glace Bay demonstrate the culture, warmth, and ingenuity of the people of Cape Breton.
For visitors with more time, Cape Breton is worth at least a full week of exploration that includes spending time on the Cabot Trail or discovering the genius of Alexander Graham Bell in the town of Baddeck.
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