How to dye fabric using natural materials

Winter is here, windy, snowy and just plain miserable in many parts of the country. I came across an old book that explains how to dye fabric with nuts and berries. Intrigued, I started to do some research and discovered that it is not so difficult to make beautiful colors yourself to dye your fabrics naturally.

Types of fabrics to use

Not all fabrics can be dyed with natural materials. The fabrics it works for are those made from natural materials themselves. Cotton, silk, wool and linen will properly absorb natural dye. Synthetic blends will also work, but will generally be lighter in color. If you’re unsure and don’t want to risk damaging the piece you’re planning to dye, try finding a similar piece of fabric and test it first. I use a piece of muslin to gauge color saturation before dyeing my clothes. You can find muslin at any reputable fabric store.

Natural materials to use for fabric dyeing

Not all materials produce a perfect dye, and some produce colors that have nothing to do with the color of the original Plant. Here is a list of plant material colors that will give you the best natural color shades.

• Orange : carrots, lichen, onion skins
• Chestnut : dandelion roots, oak bark, nut shells, tea, coffee, acorns
• Pink : berries, cherries, red and pink roses, avocado skins and their seeds (yes, yes!)
• Blue : indigo, pastel, red cabbage, elderberries, red mulberries, blueberries, purple grapes, dogwood bark
• Red-brown : pomegranates, beets, bamboo, hibiscus (reddish colored flowers), bloodroot
• Dark grey : blackberry, walnut shells, orris root
• Red-purple : Red sumac berries, basil leaves, daylilies, berries, blueberries
• Green : artichokes, sorrel roots, spinach, peppermint leaves, snapdragons, lilacs, herbs, nettles, plantain, peach leaves
• Yellow : bay leaves, marigolds, sunflower petals, St. John’s wort, dandelion flowers, paprika, turmeric, celery leaves, lilac twigs, mahonia roots, barberry roots, gentian roots, yellow dock roots

Remark : If you use ripe or mature plants, the colors will be brighter, dried, the plant will usually give you softer colors and sometimes no color at all… Chop the plant menu menu. If the plant is hard to chop, such as yellow dock roots, smash the root with a hammer to make it fibrous. If you don’t want to make your tincture right away when the plant has matured, like nettle, you can chop it up and freeze it for a few months and label it as a keepsake.

Prepare your fabric

Before starting the dyeing process, wash the fabric. Do not dry it, it must be damp. Then prepare your fixer or “mordant”. To help fabric absorb dye more easily. For berries you will use salt and for all other plant material you will use vinegar. Here are the measurements :

• Salt : dissolve ½ cup of salt in 8 cups of cold water
• Vinegar : mix 1 part of white vinegar for 4 parts of cold water

Place your wet fabric in the fixing solution for hour. Rinse with cold water when finished. Next, it’s time to dye the fabric.

The dyeing process

• Before you start, cover the surface of your work area with newspaper. I use plastic sheeting because I don’t want to stain my worktop. Be sure to wear gloves to dye the fabric and not your hands. Next, prepare your dye.
• Place the plant material in a large non-reactive pan (like stainless steel or pyrex glass). Remember the dye may stain some pans and spoons, so only use them for dyeing.
• Fill it with twice as much water as plant matter.
• Let simmer for an hour or two until you get a nice dark color.
• Strain the plant material and pour the liquid into the pan.
• Carefully place the fabric in the dye bath and bring to a slow boil. Simmer for an hour or two, stirring occasionally.
• Check your fabric. Remember, it will be clearer when dry. An hour should produce a nice color, but darker shades can be achieved by soaking longer, even a whole night for a deep dark. Turn the pot off after an hour and allow the fabric to soak in hot water for as long as needed.
• When you get the color you want, wash the fabric in cold water. Expect it fabric to spit out natural dye in the washit’s normal.
• Dry as usual.

There it’s finished. I’ve done it for sheets, curtains, towels, shirts and even underwear!

Have you ever used natural plant materials for dyeing? How did it go ?