Vegetable Oils are recommended for food use, but what about their use in cosmetics? Is it more interesting than that of mineral oils? What are their specificities? Do they have therapeutic interests compared to Essential Oils? What roles and benefits do they present in Aromatherapy?

Definition
Good quality Vegetable Oils are obtained from the first cold expression of fruits, seeds or kernels of organically grown plants. The BIO label is highly recommended.

Do you know that without knowing it you often put oil or plastic on your skin?

This is indeed the case unfortunately, because 80% of cosmetic products sold on the market are composed with different contents, namely:

• of hydrocarbons such as mineral oils (petroleum, paraffin oil).
• of silicones (synthetic ingredients)
• of polymers (plastic derivatives)

Mineral oils despite a name that seems “natural” are inert fatty substances from minerals derived from hydrocarbons. The lubricating properties of the latter are used in industry to fluidify in particular engines and any other mechanical device. From the automotive industry to the cosmetics industry, there was only a small step to take.

Of course, these elements follow a process to become odorless, colorless which makes them “clean” for use in cosmetology. Their low cost has facilitated the development of multiple skincare, hygiene and beauty products.. But don’t forget that when you apply paraffin cream, it’s oil that you put on your skin!

Here are some examples of components to identify on your products:

• paraffinum liquidum,
• mineral-oil,
• petrolatum,
• cera microcrystalline (paraffin wax).

Read also : 12 cancer-causing chemicals commonly used in cosmetics

Mineral oils have a major double defect : their occlusive film effect on the skin, which leads to a comedogenic effect by clogging the pores of the skin. Mineral oils have no possibility of interacting with skin cells.

Only Vegetable Oils are penetrating and able to open the cells and reach deep into the aquaporins (natural water reservoirs). The action of the massage participates in making these HVs penetrate into the body, which participate indirectly in the hydration of the skin.

So why use Mineral Oils when Vegetable Oils are infinitely rich? and interact with skin cells potentially having several essential roles?

How do Vegetable Oils participate in the cell hydration mechanism?

The cell membranes of the human body have a lipid structure. Lipids are organic molecules insoluble in water and soluble in apolar organic solvents (benzene, chloroform, ether, etc.).

To ensure their full functioning, the body’s cell membranes need a constant supply of lipids.

Fatty acids are the simplest lipids. They are monoacidic, linear, with an even number of carbons, either saturated or unsaturated.

Among them :

• Saturated fatty acids : butyric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lignoceric acid.
• Monounsaturated fatty acids : for example oleic acid.
• Polyunsaturated fatty acids : arachidonic acid and two which are essential for the functioning of the human body because they are not synthesized by the body: linoleic acid (omega 6) and linolenic acid (omega 3).

We then distinguish:

• simple lipids : Glycerides and Sterides.
• Complex lipids : Glycerophospholipids and Sphingolipids.

Vegetable Oils have a role in hydration mechanisms as :

• Hydrophobic film-forming substances : which leave an occlusive layer by repelling the water either inwards or outwards.
• Intercellular cement corrective substances : which interfere in the stratum corneum of the epidermis

Vegetable Oils are contributions of high nutritional quality that meet the specific needs of the body. Whether through food or topical use, their interaction with the body will be beneficial. They perform an essential role in providing fatty acids and lipid-replenishing active ingredients such as vegetable ceramides, omega 6 and 3 (polyunsaturated fatty acids). These elements help maintain the permeability and quality of the cell membranewhich ensures the exchange of information necessary for the survival of the cell in the organism.

In the West, Omega 6 excesses and Omega 3 deficiencies are common with a ratio of 30 to 1. According to nutritional recommendations, the Omega 6 / Omega 3 ratio should be 1 to 6 ideally.

Vegetable oils rich in Omega 3

Perilla Oil, Borage Oil, Rosehip Oil from Chile, Virgin Hemp Oil, Inca Inchi Oil

For a diet rich in Omega 3

Avocado, walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts, fatty fish are recommended.

For guidance : sources of Omega 6: eggs, meat, human milk.

The Roles and Benefits of Vegetable Oils

• They ensure cell cohesion.
• They contribute to hypo-lipid reinforcement and protect the skin against external aggressions.
• They are vectors and catalysts of essential oils by facilitating their absorption.
• They present little risk of toxicity and can be used in cutaneous application from an early age and by pregnant women.
  Precautions : HV of hazelnut and Macademia where risk of allergy with people sensitive to nuts.
  Do not use evening primrose HV in pregnant women, breastfeeding women and in people treated with anti-epileptic drugs.
• HVs have their own therapeutic properties!

The different properties of Vegetable Oils (HV) or Lipid Extracts (EL)

Anti-inflammatory HVs

• HV Calophylle +++: the most essential : anti inflammatory, anti infectious, healing
  rheumatic pain, tendonitis, necrosis, ulcers, wounds
  to be diluted with Lipid Extract (EL) of St. John’s Wort (be careful, this is photo-sensitizing)
• HV Nigella +++ (Oil of the Pharaohs): anti-allergic action for eczema, psoriasis, allergies, inflammations, abscesses, hemorrhoids…
• HV Evening Primrose
• HV Argan
• HV Borage
• Oily macerate of Calendula (Garden marigold flowers): soothing and anti-inflammatory on burns, wounds, bleeding and even on mucous membranes
• EL of Arnica : for blows, pain but never on a wound.

Read also : The benefits of nigella oil

The healing HVs

• HV Rosehip Chile +++ : restorative and healing, anti-aging action +++
• HV Calophylle: healing +++ for burns, healing
• HV Argan
• HV Olive: perinatal massage, stretch marks, dry hands, chapping

to discover also: Essential oils and olfactotherapy

Antioxidant HVs

• Jojoba liquid wax +++ contains regenerating unsaponifiables
  closest to human sebum
  emollient, antioxidant, regenerative and anti-inflammatory
• HV Sesame : burns

Regenerating HV

• HV Rosehip Chile : restorative and healing, anti-aging action +++
• HV Evening Primrose : for mature skin rebuilds cell membranes
• Jojoba liquid wax +++ contains regenerating unsaponifiables
  closest to human sebum
  emollient, antioxidant, regenerative and anti-inflammatory
• HV Borage : for 30/40 year old skin
• HV Argan
• HV Indian Hemp
• HV Lawyer : regenerating unsaponifiables from 1 to 12% anti-stretch mark action, massage of the perineum before childbirth, eczema, psoriasis, irritations
• HV Prickly Pear : the most luxurious

HV analgesics

• HV Nigella +++ (Oil of the Pharaohs): anti-allergic action for eczema, psoriasis, allergies, inflammations, abscesses, hemorrhoids…
• EL of St. John’s Wort but sensitizing photo

HVs to protect the skin from the sun

• HV Carrot
• HV Olive
• HV Lawyer
• HV Rosehip Chile

HV for body massage

These Oils are recommended for their “gliding” properties. Mixtures are possible. They are good supports for HE too.

• Hazelnut +++ great glide – the favorite of physiotherapists
• Macadamia +++ excellent EO absorption vector – lymphatic microcirculation
• Indian hemp +++ slightly analgesic
• Sunflower economic
• Almond soothing
• Sesame choose a quality deodorized with cold pressing
• coconut crystallizes at room temperature

Vegetable Oils are close to the physiological composition of human sebum and promote cell regeneration and balance. They have their own specific properties and therefore act in complementarity with Essential Oils while facilitating their absorption. It is also possible to combine them with each other as for HE. They are therefore truly Aromatherapy must-haves!