Kolkatans are truly passionate about their mutton Biryani. Kolkata has its distinct style of biryani which is on a par with the best biryanis in India—including Lucknow-style biryani and the Hyderabadi biryani. Kolkata biryani, in spite of the usage of a staggering number of spices, is not spicy. It is subtle and fragrant without being dry. A good Kolkata biryani should be moist and can be eaten on its own—no raita or salan required. This style of biryani is descended from the Lucknow style biryani that came to Calcutta with the exiled Nawab of Awadh, Wajid Ali Shah (remember Satyajit Ray's "Satranj Ke Khilari"?). What started with just a handful of restaurants such as Royal India Hotel, Shiraz, and Aminia has become the most widely available and eaten street food in Calcutta. Many new restaurants have sprung up and the competition for excellent biryani in Calcutta is only getting tougher. Our recipe of the Kolkata mutton biryani isn't perfect, but it is very, very close. With some practice, planning and patience this recipe will help you make a very good Calcutta-style biryani at home.
