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London Fashion Week AW 2016 - Day 1: Three Floor, Steven Tai, Edeline Lee, Fyodor Golan, John Smedley, Le Kilt and Miuniku

Three Floor - Curious Labyrinth

One of Three Floor's signature dresses Maurelle.



Marie Sripha-Tate, Head of Design, Three Floor:

I started reading a Gothic romance that was written in the 70’s, which got us thinking about a darker, dream state for this Collection.

And so the creative journey began once more.

The mood took a darker romantic tone, inspired by the work of Escher and referenced by the creative escapism captured by Tim Walker photographs.

This collection reflects something much more intricate and embodies the process of transformation between bold tailored structures into something more softer and romantic.

Signature details:

We took a Floralistic approach to lace with embroideries flourishing across the body and adorning the neck.

Soft Pleating, billowy ruffles and ethereal sheers are matched with Guipure laces and evening twills that hint on a synchronic twist to classic Three Floor silhouettes.

While off shoulder details and high slash cuts compliment dresses with a vixen appeal.

Signature Colours:

A labyrinth of rich colours such as Ink blue, Plum, Deep Orchid and Bordeaux into Black, epitomised in a multitude of textures for an evening look.

Signature Pieces:

The collection as whole is a beautiful curation of classic Three Floor with some new additions. Our favourites include Maurelle, a commanding piece of Victorian splendour of fine pleating and lace trim.


Steven Tai - Freaky Friday





Steven Tai with Susie Bubble 
The collections was inspired by the phrase `an old soul.' Despite appearances, the steventai girl is wise beyond her years.

The collection takes inspiration from materials and colours that are nostalgic and reminiscent of the old lady in our daily lives.

Corduroys in lavender, navy, beige and olive are frayed and woven to build a modern wardrobe.

Classic floral Print is updated in a peony jacquard with stands of colours revealed on the raw edges, creating both an attitude and a sense of time.

Voluminous white silk quilted blankets and pillows are constructed to wrap around the body, creating folds and twists reminiscent of a bed well slept in.

Like a grandmother who is always ready to mend your clothes, the patchwork takes form in unexpected mix of corduroys and denim, eclectic prints and frayed edge details.

Steven Tai said: "The whole theme is kind of like more the grandma that is coming to teach them how to sow and teaching them to do needle work.

"It's just because I feel that during Fashion Week it is so hectic it's just like this room just relax and take a moment to have tea."

Edeline Lee - AW16





Pop artist Pademonia and Edeline Lee
Autumn/Winter 2016 started with the idea of a return to simplicity.

Edeline Lee said: "I think we are all feeling the need to simplify, pull back, minimise, declutter, underexpose, eat cleaner food, air out our inboxes, stop keeping up with the Joneses, turn off our iPhones and go off the grid.

"I used purer shapes, cleaner lines and fabrics with integrity. The landscape and climate we live in now ironically requires us to be constantly exposed and yet at the same time, hold ourselves once removed from all the chatter."

A functional, utilitarian series of black, calico and ivory pieces are made of heavy Virgin Wool crepe.

Unstructed coats made of Virgin Wool Boucle are edged with three-dimensional contrast piping and wrap, like blankets around the body. A delicate Floral Double Gauze plays against larger distorted floral embroidery made of silken, fringed threads. 

An ivory Silk Charmeuse is finely checked with golden threads. A series of pieces made of textured Flo Bubble reinterpret Edeline's constant obsessions with proportion, line and composition.

A Red Seersucker and Money Green Lures Lame gown shimmer in the distance.

Fyodor Golan - Birth of Venus




Fyodor Golan after the show
Fyodor Golan encapsulated Coca Cola prints, bold designs and detailing with strong colours at its AW16 show.

Adopting Botticelli Birth of Venus as the title of the collection the artist's work shone on prints including a three-quarter length trouser.


Coca Cola designs and images are splashed across items including a full length coat, dresses and top.

Elsewhere, ruffles or pleats on trousers, sleeve and a dress prevail.


Red, gold, blues worked throughout inspiring a striking, modern, contemporary and edgy look.



John Smedley - Spectrum: The Artistry of Knit





Each piece of the newly created Spectrum and Luxury Essentials collection works deliberately limited tonal shades of Gardner Red and hues of Black to eveoke the passionate mood of the  British abstract movement, whilst Bardot Grey adds a soft calmness to the season.

With the feminine form deeply considered at every turn, details such as drapery, mixed rib features and stitch pattern work to compliment the fluidity of the fibers to create subtle yet stand out pieces, each designed to layer with the next.

Le Kilt - AW16






Le Kilt AW16 takes a personal “love” trip around the UK, reflecting punk youth in the Scottish tartans and finishing in the cultivated cool of the British made silks, Pulling together Traditional Scottish and 'made in the UK' craft and manufacturing.

The collection forms an extension of Samantha McCoach’s own subcultural uniform, in a continued exploration of the classic female wardrobe.

This season, the kilt is re-imagined in a selection of traditional and contemporary British fabrics, woven in with both renowned Lochcarron and Hainsworth fabric mills.

Le Kilt has introduced an exciting capsule knitted range, working alongside traditional Sanquhar knitters. Combining a mixture of original patterns and
traditional techniques within Sanquhar’s iconic two coloured design.

All kilts are made in the heart of Scotland by skilled traditional kilt makers.

Miuniku - AW16





Miuniku’s AW16 collection is inspired by people who go out to explore something new.

It reflects the curiosity of man to discover things less known. References have been taken from camp sites, mountaineers, geological analysis and the uneven lines on rocks and sediments.

Graphic details like those found on geological diagrams have been translated into panels and prints. 

Minimal frills are paired with plain textures to reflect terrains. The colours used are a mix of subtle earthy tones mixed with primary and darker colours.

The overall brand aesthetic is a balance between clean lines and graphic details, mixing minimal and maximal elements.

Phew! That's day one. Keep updated on my Twitter for the day two report.


This post first appeared on Mun Wai Wong, please read the originial post: here

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London Fashion Week AW 2016 - Day 1: Three Floor, Steven Tai, Edeline Lee, Fyodor Golan, John Smedley, Le Kilt and Miuniku

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