Continuing my exploration of Navy Strength gins, while in Cornwall I could not resist getting my hands on a Bottle of Trevethan Chauffeur’s Reserve, produced by the Trevethan distillery who are based in Saltash just the right (or rather left) side of the Tamar from a Cornish perspective. It is some years since I tried their Cornish Gin which I had thoroughly enjoyed and as the Chauffeur’s Reserve uses the same ten botanicals – juniper, coriander, cassia, angelica, cardamom, orange peel, lemon peel, and vanilla with the local touch provided by elderflower and gorse flower picked from the local hedgerows – although the quantities are increased by 30%, it seemed a low risk option to buy a bottle.

The distillation process is a one-shot process which means that the proportions of each botanical have to be carefully calculated to ensure that the required complexity of flavours coupled with the smooth texture of the spirit is achieved in one distillation. There is no blending or tweaking after distillation which means that what comes out of the still is what we drink, reflecting the true taste of the product on the day that it was made. Mine came from batch number 22.

The eponymous Trevethan and, indeed, the chauffeur was Norman Trevethan who was chauffeur to Earl and Lady St Germans amongst others before turning his hand to distilling. In 2015 his grandson, engineer Robert Cuffe, together with a chemist, John Hall, decided to revive the Trevethan brand and it has established a niche as one of Cornwall’s more distinctive and successful spirits.

The bottle design exudes style and elegance, using clear glass to make a thin rectangular bottle with narrow shoulders, a dumpy neck with wide lips leading to a wooden stopper with an artificial cork. The labelling makes use of a stunning art deco pattern in gold against a black background. The Trevethan name is embossed in the glass on the thinner two sides of the bottle. It is good enough to keep even once the contents have long since gone. Although the distillery was established in 2015 the labelling makes great play of the spirit’s 1920s origins as the gin is a recreation of Norman’s original recipe.

On the nose there is a massive hit of juniper but belying its strength of 57% there is not the clinical smell of alcohol that you might expect. Instead, the spirit’s aroma hints at a more complex drink with hints of spiciness and earthiness coming through. In the glass when mixed with a premium tonic it louches to give a cloudy, milky appearance. In the mouth there is no mistaking its strength, juniper to the fore, mellowed by the citric notes, its dryness and spiciness given a hint of sweetness by the addition of vanilla and gorse. There is a long, spicy, satisfying aftertaste which allows you to savour a full-bodied gin in all its glory.

This was a gin that was right down my street but was also one that took no prisoners. Make sure the roller is safely stowed away in the garage for the evening before taking a sip.

Until the next time, cheers!