Many small distilleries spawned by the ginaissance are finding life a bit of a struggle what with the double whammy of increased production costs and the reduction in consumers’ disposable incomes as a result of the current economic woes. Still, it is refreshing to find one that is determined to stick to their principles and maintain their high standards, producing spirits of exceptional quality which are beautifully packaged and as environmentally friendly as possible.

I first came across Lisa Angelsjo and Ben Roberts of Mounts Bay Distillery when I picked up a bottle of their Ebba Cornish Dry Gin on one of my regular jaunts to Cornwall. What caught my eye was the beautiful minimalist bottle and I was delighted to find that the quality of the product inside matched the aesthetic charm of the exterior. Although their main focus is on distilling rums, they have another gin in their repertoire, Ebba Tidal Gin, which I was keen to try.

The bottle is equally as distinctive, slightly squatter and with a broader shoulder and shorter neck than the one they use for their Dry Gin. It maintains their trademark minimalist look, a dark bluey colour redolent of the images of the Cornish sea with a square creamy label at the front, giving its name in orange print and the description “Cornish Dry Gin Ocean Botanics” and the size of the bottle (700ml) and strength (40% ABV) in black lettering. Its corresponding label at the rear tells me that it is a Classic London Dry Gin inspired by the deep blue sea. The top is wooden with a cork stopper secured by an orange strip bearing the distillery’s name and the image of St Michael’s Mount. And that’s it, minimalist design perfection.

Sadly, the bottle itself is glass rather than ceramic. The ceramic bottle, initially inspired by Australia and sourced from Japan, has proven to be too fragile for the dubious standards of care exercised by transportation companies and too many have been damaged either in transit to the distillery or, more tragically, when full, to make it economic to expand on their usage.

One of the benefits of being based just outside the village of Germoe in west Cornwall and near Praa Sands is its close proximity to the shoreline from which Lisa and Ben harvest seaweeds, three varieties of which are used in Tidal to give it a slightly saline feel that gives the spirit its maritime feel. The other botanicals used are juniper, coriander, lemon peel, and lime peel to give it its classic London Dry base and hibiscus and sea berries to add a touch of floral fruitiness to the mix.

On opening the bottle there is no mistaking the juniper and in the glass the slightly tinged spirit, which works well with a premium tonic, is a deliciously complex drink with the juniper ebbing and flowing in the mouth, temporarily receding to give way to the citric and softer flavour before crashing back with full force. It seemed to me to be a more confident spirit than their Cornish Dry with the juniper less subdued. If you are a fan of juniper and London Dry with a distinctive twist, you will not be disappointed.

I was also intrigued by the origin of the name Ebba. There is a convoluted story (as ever) with the choice but, as well as being a popular Swedish girl’s name, paying homage to Lisa’s homeland, it is designed to conjure up the image of the ebb and flow of the sea.

If I ever get into drinking rums, I know where to start.