- Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion, sponsored by American Express, at the V&A (from 27 May 2017-18 February 2018)
Iconic fashion designer, Cristobal Balenciaga's exalted fashion design skills are celebrated in detail with pieces from his proteges and designers influenced at a new exhibition in London.
The Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion exhibit displays more than 100 garments and 20 hats. Many have not been seen by the public before.
These are accompanied by archive sketches, patterns, photographs, fabric samples and catwalk footage at the Victoria and Albert Museum.
The exhibit marks the centenary of the opening of Balenciaga's first fashion house in San Sebastian, Spain and the 80th anniversary of the opening of his fashion house in Paris.
Proteges and contemporary designers who have worked or been influenced by the Spanish courtier have designs on display.
The works include pieces from Oscar De La Renta, Erdem, Dries Van Noten, Givenchy and more.
- Erdem dress at the Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion, sponsored by American Express, at the V&A (from 27 May 2017-18 February 2018)
The exhibition is split into three sections, Front of House, Workrooms and Balenciaga's Legacy section features the work of more than 30 designers of the last 50 years tracing Balenciaga's influence up to the present day.
Themes include an exploration of his minimalist aesthetic reflected in the work of his former apprentices Andre Courreges and Emanuel Ungaro and recently revived by designers including Phoebe Philo for Celine and in the strong lines of J.W Anderson.
Balenciaga's perfectionism and attention to detail are reflected in the work of Hubert de Givenchy and Erdem.
His pattern cutting and explorations of volume can be seen in the work of Molly Goddard and Demna Gvasalia. And his creative use of new materials is referenced in the work of former Balenciaga creative director, Nicolas Ghesquiere.
- Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga at the Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion, sponsored by American Express, at the V&A (from 27 May 2017-18 February 2018)
Ghesquiere also examined the cut of sleeves in his designs. He reinterpreted the balloon sleeve and combined the design with silk matelasse on the front of this dress. The silk was often used by Balenciaga in the 60s.
Givenchy was Balenciaga's protegee and paid close attention to Balenciaga's precision in his work. In this dress, the layers of lace, embroidery, corat and glass beading are created with careful attention to build a cohesive design.
In the late 50s, Oscar de la Renta worked briefly as a sketch artist at Balenciaga's Madrid salon, Eisa He credited this, along with his apprenticeships in Paris, for the high standards he later applied to garments for his own New York label.
Floral patterns are recurring motifs for both designers.
- Oscar de la Renta at the Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion, sponsored by American Express, at the V&A (from 27 May 2017-18 February 2018)
Balenciaga changed the shape of women's fashion, creating unusual volumes that stood away from the body, framing the figure, rather than restricting it. It was a gutsy move that challenged the then dominant hour-glass silhouette of Dior's 'New Look`.
And the designer's silhouettes continue to inspire designer's today.
Like Balenciaga, Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garcons has explored this idea of the void or volume around the body. Her recent collections have featured increasingly architectural shapes.
- Comme des Garcons at the Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion, sponsored by American Express, at the V&A (from 27 May 2017-18 February 2018)
The showcase focuses on the latter part of Balenciaga's long career in the 50s and 60s - his most creative period.
During these years he dressed some of the most renowed women of the time including Hollywood actress Ava Gardner, dresses and hats belonging to socialite and 60s fashion icon Gloria Guiness and pieces worn by one of the world's wealthiest women Mona von Bismarck.
Balenciaga's couture clients chose their new clothes in Paris seasonally and had them made to measure.
- The sack dress at the Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion, sponsored by American Express, at the V&A (from 27 May 2017-18 February 2018)
- The semi-fit dress at the Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion, sponsored by American Express, at the V&A (from 27 May 2017-18 February 2018)
The sack shape, semi-fit and baby doll dresses were some of the designs that revolutionised the female silhouette.
The semi-fit dress released in 1951 first faced initial resistance for its fitted at the front, loose at the back design but became one of the designer's most popular and most imitated looks.
The baby doll of 1957, when made with opaque fabric completely concealed the shape of a woman's figure. London-based designer, Molly Goddard cites 50s Balenciaga as an influence on her designs.
And for the first time, the V&A is using x-ray technology to take a forensic look at the hidden details inside the Spanish designer's garments.
The images show structures invisible to the naked eye including dress weights strategically placed to determine the exact hang of the skirt in a minimal design and boning in dress bodices, dispelling the myth he did not use such structures.
The exhibit draws from the museum's fashion holdings and is the largest collection of Balenciaga in the UK.
An intriguing insight into the life and works of an esteemed courtier whose brand continues today and whose works are referenced and studied by luxury fashion designers of the 21st century.
- X-ray technology at the Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion, sponsored by American Express, at the V&A (from 27 May 2017-18 February 2018)
