| Il Ridotto (The Foyer) by Francesco Guardi (1755) |
(Venice, Italy) A sleek, black gondola glides up the Grand Canal and docks in front of a 15th century Gothic palace blazing with candles. A masked nobleman wearing a tricorn hat steps out and offers his hand to his companion, also masked, draped in gold finery. The couple strides through space and time into a sumptuous world that once existed, and, if you step through the right portal, still exists in Venice today.
In a city where there seems to be a mask shop on every corner, it may be surprising to learn that the ancient Venetian craft of mask making was only revived about forty years ago. During the political terrorism of the Years of Lead starting in the late 60s, the wearing of masks was discouraged, and Carnival limited to schoolchildren and private celebrations.
Mask making in Venice can be documented back to the 13th century, though it probably existed much earlier. On April 10, 1436, the ancient profession of mascareri was founded under the jurisdiction of the Painter's Guild. Over the years, masks were used for a variety of reasons -- in the government, the theater, and as a means of disguise. Masks provided the Venetians a degree of anonymity.
As far back as the 11th century, the mattaccino costume was worn by mischievous young men, who, dressed as clowns, would bombard noblewomen with eggs filled with rosewater, inspiring the first official documentation regarding masks: a 1268 law prohibiting the throwing of eggs while disguised. The Venetian government apparently gave up trying to enforce it, however, and resorted to putting up nets along the Procuratie in St. Mark's Square to protect the ladies and their rich clothing.
| Venice Carnival 2022 - Photo: Cat Bauer |
Over the years, Carnival festivities grew more decadent until it evolved into a 250-day event of non-stop parties, gambling and dancing. Social and class distinctions were flipped on their heads, with servants dressing up as masters and vice versa. It was difficult to distinguish a housewife wearing a traditional mask, cape, hood and three corner hat from a nobleman dressed in the same outfit, allowing both to move freely though the city without fear of recognition.
Not all masks were used for indelicacies, however. The bauta was worn by both men and women, and was not considered a costume but a form of dress -- required wearing if a woman wanted to go to the theater.
Teatro San Cassiano, the world's first public opera house, opened in Venice with Andromeda by Francesco Manelli during Carnival 1637. It was such a hit that more theaters were built. During the theater boom of the 17th century, Venetians spontaneously started wearing masks in public, until over the decades it became a natural way of life.
Masks disappeared, along with Carnival, when Napoleon's troops brought an end to the Venetian Republic in 1797. Since then, they've resurfaced and submerged again throughout the decades until being vanquished to the pages of the history books by the 20th century.
And then masks staged a spectacular comeback in the late 1970s and early 1980s when a group of young people brought them once again into the forefront. After that authentic relaunching of the Venice Carnival in 1980, as the decades passed, the celebrations grew more and more commercialized, televised and publicized as masses of tourists swarmed into the city.
Then, on February 23, 2020, the Venice Carnival suddenly shut down two days early when three cases of Covid-19 were discovered in the city and thrust the pandemic into the media spotlight of the Western world.
| Il medico della peste or "The Black Death Doctor" - Photo: Cat Bauer, Carnival 2016 |
The word "quarantine" is a Venetian word, and means "forty days." In 1448, the Venice Senate passed a law that required ships and crews to remain isolated outside the city during the time of the plague, which had a 37-day cycle from infection to death.
A distinct mask evolved in response to the serious pandemic that wiped out much of Venice's population on more than one occasion. Il medico della peste or "The Black Death Doctor" had a long beak-like nose stuffed with disinfectants, and, as its name implies, was used to protect doctors from the plague.
In 2021, there was no official, physical Venice Carnival, only digital.
Now, two years after the Venice Carnival was slammed shut without warning, and with the pandemic hopefully on the wane, Venice has once again hitched up her skirts and is pulsing with life. Even though there are still no official events in Piazza San Marco, this year people from all over the globe arrived in Venice to celebrate a new sense of freedom. Confetti was thick as snow on Piazza San Marco and laughter lightened the air. Wearing a mask became fun again.
Then, during these last days of Carnival 2022, Russia astonishingly attacked Ukraine, adding a thick layer of darkness beneath the festivities.
My heart is with everyone who is suffering. I am against war and violence in any form and fully support harmony and diplomatic solutions. Here's hoping the Venice Carnival is back in all its glory in 2023 and that Europe and the world are at peace.
Ciao from Venezia,
Cat Bauer
Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog
Note: I have published various versions of this article on Venetian Cat - The Venice Blog throughout the years. It was first published in print on February 27, 2001 in the International Herald Tribune - Italy Daily.
It seems that unethical marketer Filippo Merlo of Venice City Tours continues to plagiarize my article in the year 2022 to the point of obsession. even though he was blocked by Google back in 2019 -- he just changes the link and date. From Google: In response to a complaint that we received under the US Digital Millennium Copyright Act, we have removed 7 result(s) from this page. If you wish, you may read the DMCA complaint that caused the removal(s) at LumenDatabase.org.
Message to Filippo Merlo: Knock it off. Ob-la-di ob-la-da Get a life, bra.
