Origins of Leheriya

Originating in Rajasthan, leheriya is a tie-dye technique renowned for its unique arrangements of stripes, chevrons, and diagonals. This traditional artistry adorns men’s safas (turban cloths), women’s odhanis, and sarees, drawing inspiration from the monsoon’s celebratory essence in the state, and the wind’s imprints on desert sands, reflected in its name derived from the Sanskrit word “lahara,” meaning “wave.”

Rooted in water-intensive methods, this intricate craft involves a multi-step process that commences with assembling essential tools. The process necessitates a “Khilli,” a tool that accelerates knot-tying, ensuring efficiency. Wet threads of materials like cotton, polyester, nylon, silk, jute, and even aluminum wires are employed to secure the Fabric.

“Leheriya” crafting involves the use of specialized tools: “Mudda,” a wooden stool with a pole for securing the rolled fabric, and “Undi,” a sizable copper vessel for washing and dyeing the fabric. Additionally, a drying apparatus named “Hydro Extract” is employed to eliminate excess moisture from the dyed fabric. The process concludes with the utilization of a “Khoonti” to twist and remove surplus water from the fabric.

Neighbouring Connections and Hub of Leheriya Making

Rajasthan and its neighboring state, Gujarat, have a rich tradition of resist-dyed textiles, specifically the renowned bandhani technique. While the exact historical origins of the leheriya technique remain unclear, visual evidence from seventeenth-century miniature paintings showcases Rajasthani nobles adorning turbans adorned with leheriya patterns. This technique has historically been employed in fine cotton to craft various garments like ghagras, kurtas, kanchali, and angarkha.

The cities of Jodhpur and Jaipur are the prominent hubs for leheriya textiles. Skilled dyers, often supported by erstwhile royal families, are concentrated in these centres, particularly in crafting intricate turbans. In the past, distinct royal houses boasted their own signature leheriya color palettes and designs, adding an extra layer of uniqueness to this tradition.

Distinctions of Leheriya

Distinct from bandhani, where specific portions of the fabric are preserved and dyed, the wrap-resist artistry of leheriya entails encompassing the entire material, periodically fastening it to create a designated pattern. Unbound areas absorb the dyes, while the bound segments remain uncolored. Given the necessity for dyes to permeate tightly wound layers, this method relies on muslin or delicate silks as foundational materials. The fabric undergoes cleansing to eliminate impurities. Subsequently, it is either diagonally folded from one edge to the opposing selvage and rolled, or intricately folded and then rolled akin to a fan.The wet, rolled fabric is wrapped around a wooden frame and secured firmly with untwisted yarn at regular intervals, yielding the intended design. Traditionally executed by women, known as “bandhere,” the meticulous process of binding the fabric ensues. Following immersion in water, the bound fabric proceeds to the dyeing phase.

Dyeing Phase of Leheriya

In leheriya, a type of dye known as fugitive or kuccha dye is used. This dye can be easily removed to create clean lines in the pattern. If you want multiple colors in stripes, some ties can be loosened for more dyeing rounds, while others are kept as they are. After making one diagonal pattern, you can create another by unrolling the fabric and tying it from the corner to the edge in the opposite direction, resulting in two diagonal stripes crossing each other. This creates the “mothra” pattern, inspired by the lentil-shaped moth.Leheriya textiles can have different patterns. If they have stripes, they’re called “salaidar,” and if they have chevron patterns, they’re called “gandadar.” Adding extra flair, a finished leheriya piece can also be decorated with khari work. This technique involves applying metallic dust to a motif that’s been stamped onto the cloth using adhesive. There are variations in Leheriya, two types are discussed above, besides that there is Gemstone Gleam: The pattern is dubbed ‘Nageena Mothara’ due to the creation of small, gem-like squares at consistent intervals.Dual-Toned Leheriya Bands: In this variation, the fabric undergoes two rounds of dyeing. After the initial dyeing, the color is removed using acid, followed by a second dyeing with a different hue. This type is named ‘Katva Patta Leheriya’ due to the formation of bands at even intervals, referred to as ‘pattas’ in Hindi.

Cultural Relevance of Leheriya

Leheriya, primarily crafted on airy fabrics, stands as a cherished option for women seeking respite from Rajasthan’s blazing heat. Every festival is accompanied by specific colors linked to them. During festivities like Teej and Gangaur, women don the vibrant Samudra Rajashahi Leheriya. Come Sharad Poornima, they grace the occasion with the elegance of light pink Leheriya, also referred to as Mothia.Tie-dyed fabrics like leheriya hold profound cultural value in Rajasthan and are donned during significant events. For spring festivities like Holi and Gangaur, women adorn themselves in leheriya odhanis and sarees. Similarly, during the monsoon festival of Teej, these textiles make an appearance. On special occasions like weddings, men often sport red or pink safas. In times of mourning, a safa featuring the mothra design is traditionally worn. 

Traditionally made and was favored by local royalty and aristocracy in Rajasthan, Leheriya was intricately linked to ceremonial garments for festive occasions. However, it has gracefully evolved in response to shifting market dynamics. While its traditional role persists, the craft has diversified to encompass a spectrum of fabrics like cotton, silk, and georgette, seamlessly weaving itself into the contemporary textile landscape. Leheriya is still adorned and fancied by many, a living craft tradition that continues on. 

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