INTRODUCTION

The origin of the name ‘Kullu’ can be traced to ‘kulant peeth’, signifying ‘the terminus of the inhabited world’. This picturesque valley settlement finds its snug abode nestled between the mighty lower and greater Himalayan ranges, harmoniously tracing the path of the Beas River. While a handful of hotels and resorts have emerged, life in Himachal Pradesh’s Kullu continues to unfold at its enduring, serene rural rhythm. The Shawls made in the region have garnered global appreciation. This valley, adorned with sacred sites cherished by Hindus, Buddhists, and Sikhs, has rightfully earned the moniker ‘Dev Bhumi’ or the ‘Land of the Gods’. Amidst this spiritual aura, the Kullu valley boasts a cherished craft: the Kullu shawls, meticulously woven from a range of natural fibers such as pashmina, sheep wool, and Angora. Renowned worldwide, these shawls are revered for their exquisite woollen fabric, impeccable craftsmanship, vibrant hues, and geometric motifs, collectively weaving a tale of allure that spans across the globe.

History of Kullu Shawl Weaving in the Region

Over the years, there is nothing more comforting than wrapping a soft shawl over our shoulders and sipping a hot beverage in the hilly region of this country. Let’s now trace the history of Kullu shawl weaving in the region. In the time before India gained independence, the Kullu Valley faced a challenge: the absence of efficient transportation networks made it difficult for clothing from industrialised areas to reach the region. Benefiting from its location within the temperate Himalayan expanse, the Kullu Valley experiences a chilly climate that proves conducive to raising sheep and goats. This not only meets the need for warm garments but also aligns seamlessly with the necessity for wool-based textiles.

In the early days, the residents of Kullu engaged in crafting strips of cloth known as “Patti,” varying in widths of 18 inches, 20 inches, or 22 inches, and extending to suitable lengths. This practice arose from the fundamental requirement to clothe themselves and safeguard against the intense cold. For instance, men wove these Pattis to fashion coats and suthans (pyjamas), while women fashioned them into Pattus for their own use. Additionally, men ingeniously crafted caps from these Pattis, which were originally woven using the natural hues of wool such as black, white, and grey.

Until the year 1936, the crafting of pattus transpired primarily on pitlooms. However, post this period, the introduction of handlooms into the practice seemed to have been influenced by British colonial presence. The transformative shift can also be attributed to the arrival of weavers from Bushehar, a region near Shimla, to the Kullu Valley during the early 1940s. Their distinct craft left an imprint on the valley’s populace, especially due to their adeptness with geometrical designs which they artfully incorporated into the pattus.

In the year 1942, a notable event unfolded when Devika Rani, a prominent Indian film star and daughter-in-law of the renowned Russian painter Nicholas Roerich, visited Kullu. Her visit sparked a profound interest in the local looms. Driven by her curiosity, she requested Sh. Sheru Ram from Banontar village created the earliest iteration of an urban-sized shawl, measuring 72 inches by 36 inches. This innovation acted as a catalyst, inspiring Pt. Urvi Dhar embarked on the commercial production of shawls, furthering the evolution of Kullu’s weaving heritage.The introduction of synthetic threads into Kullu’s weaving scene traces its origins back to the 1940s when weavers from Bushehar migrated to the valley. The absence of local spinning mills compelled weavers to source yarn from Ludhiana in Punjab, which was then incorporated into the creation of pattus and shawls. This practice of importing yarn persists even in present times.

In 1957, a significant development occurred with the establishment of the Kullu Shawl Improvement Center within the valley. Notably, Mr. Devi Prakash Sharma assumed the role of a technician there. His tenure ushered in a period of design diversification as he not only conceived a plethora of innovative designs but also actively engaged with cooperative societies and individual weavers, imparting fresh patterns to them. Over time, the spectrum of shawls has broadened to encompass an array of intricate patterns. Notably, the incorporation of vegetable dyes has gained traction, contributing to a captivating palette of subtle hues including apricots, ochre, rusts, browns, olives, and numerous others, thus enhancing the allure of these creations.

Contemporary Kullu Shawls being made

Traditionally, Kullu shawls anchored their designs upon a foundation of black, white, brown, or natural grey hues, while vibrant tones such as yellow, red, green, orange, and blue were adroitly employed for intricate patterning. However, present trends are witnessing the gradual replacement of these traditional vivid shades with more muted pastel colours, catering to the preferences of discerning consumers. Designs encompass a spectrum of one to eight colours, each thoughtfully interwoven to form mesmerising patterns.

Kullu shawls exhibit a rich variety of materials, including sheep wool, Pashmina, Yak wool, Angora, and handspun fibres. These yarns are skillfully imbued with either vegetable or chemical dyes, lending a diverse array of shades to the fabric. The weaving patterns themselves encompass an array of choices, ranging from plain shawls crafted in a single colour, to those adorned with traditional patterns or coloured stripes on their borders, or featuring traditional motifs on both ends. The shawls, irrespective of the chosen design, have become a sought-after treasure among tourists. Every traveller exploring Himachal Pradesh, particularly Kullu, carries back a shawl as a memento of their journey through this hilly haven. The global appreciation for Kullu shawls has brought immense benefits, yet it remains paramount to safeguard the livelihoods of the weavers who continue to contribute to the handloom sector. Preserving this delicate artistry is essential for nurturing a flourishing handloom industry that thrives alongside the changing tides of time.

Distinctive Designs of Kullu Shawls

The distinctive hallmark of Kullu handloom creations lies in their juxtaposition of a plain central body with vibrant, intricate borders characterised by geometric motifs. This unique combination imparts a pronounced identity to these handcrafted treasures. The body of the fabric is meticulously woven using techniques like plain weave, twill weave, fine zigzags, or stripes, all of which harmoniously complement the elaborate Kullu borders. The fusion of multiple shades within the fabric’s body introduces a rugged, earthy charm to the supple merino wool textures. The value of a Kullu handloom shawl is augmented by the quality and width of its borders, further elevated when adorned with ornamental variations. A traditional Kinnauri design, finely intertwined with intricate motifs, exemplifies the time-honoured aesthetic.

Innovation thrives among the weavers, as they tirelessly experiment with an array of colours and designs, expanding the choices available to discerning customers seeking the perfect embodiment of their preferences.

A white shawl frequently serves as a distinguished choice for bestowing ornamental gifts upon men during ceremonial occasions.Catering to the preferences of their male clientele, handloom weavers craft a diverse array of offerings. This encompasses checks, stripes, and plain hues in soft, natural tones, ideal for mufflers and scarves. Additionally, they fashion running lengths featuring twill patterns and delicate checks.Kullu’s women artisans also engage in the artistry, weaving intricate, narrow strips of patterned handloom on compact looms while seated upon the ground. These strips are then deftly sewn onto what are colloquially referred to as Himachali topis or caps for men, enhancing their charm. Alternatively, these meticulously crafted strips function as decorative borders, seamlessly attaching to various forms of attire.

Within the town, a charming assortment of shawls, mufflers, lois, and pattus find their home in quaint shops and even spill onto pavements near a central temple and various informal spots. Enterprising women carry these treasures bundled up and artistically lay them out for the day, attracting both local patrons and visiting tourists. To all, the allure of the indigenous Kullu shawl beckons as a Himalayan masterpiece, exuding both beauty and a comforting warmth.

Weaving a Kullu Shawl

A range of indispensable tools and raw materials come into play while making a shawl. Wool serves as the fundamental element, with woollen threads forming the core substance for weaving shawls and stoles. Spinning wheels play a pivotal role, facilitating the transformation of natural fibres into threads. The handloom itself becomes the canvas upon which intricate patterns take shape, a device dedicated to the art of weaving cloth and tapestry. Yarn, the spun thread essential for knitting, weaving, and sewing, contributes to the intricate texture of the final product. The innovation of the flying shuttle introduces a mechanised dimension to the handloom process, allowing a single weaver to create broader fabric. Lastly, scissors are employed with precision, deftly trimming away excess threads during the weaving process, ensuring the creation of a flawless piece of art.

The journey of shawl weaving commences with the foundational raw materials, such as Sheep, Angora, or Pashmina wool. Exceptional wool is deftly spun using a traditional spinning wheel, yielding fine yarn that is carefully gathered into bundles. These bundles are then meticulously wound onto spindles. These loaded spindles find their place within a fly shuttle. The artisans adhere to the timeless weaving methodology passed down through generations. The weaving process endures, with craftsmen employing both Pit and frame looms. The intricate designs are artfully embroidered by hand, as the rhythmic process of weaving takes shape.

Kullu Shawl Makers

Situated in Kullu, the Trishla Shawl factory is a bastion of women artists at the helm. In a stride towards empowerment, the government extends subsidies to the products skillfully fashioned by these women artisans. The Kullu Shawls and Stoles encompass a price spectrum, commencing from INR 126 and extending up to a maximum of INR 6,000.

Another initiative was established in 1996 by Shri Narotam Ram Ji of Village Takoli, Mandi, Himachal Pradesh, the Narotam Handloom Industry embarked on its journey. Commencing with a modest assembly of 10 individuals, the organisation has now grown to encompass the participation of 200 skilled artisans. Their craft centres on the creation of Kullu shawls and stoles, meticulously fashioned from the native wool of sheep and yak, sourced from the region.

The exemplary exhibit crafted by Narotam Ram showcases the remarkable heights that can be reached in woollen handloom weaving through dedicated practice and an unwavering commitment to achieving excellence.An array of intricate motifs, following the distinctive Kinnauri style, have been seamlessly integrated into the overarching pattern in the creations of Narotam’s Shawls. 

Kullu Shawl for the Region

Kullu shawls hold a prominent position among the handloom offerings that significantly bolster Himachal Pradesh’s economy. Virtually every household within the region plays a role in crafting these exquisite shawls. Out of the expansive community of over twenty thousand weavers, an estimated sixty percent are actively engaged in the collaborative production of these shawls, either individually or as members of weaving cooperatives. Essential raw materials are provided to these cooperatives through entities such as the HP Apex Weavers Society, who ensure a steady supply to various weaving clusters and dedicated groups perpetuating this craft.

In 2004, the shawls were granted the esteemed Geographical Indication (GI) tag. Presently, these shawls find their way to registered cooperative outlets and local markets spanning the entirety of Himachal Pradesh. When it comes to commercial production, mill-spun and chemically dyed merino wool form the foundation, while vibrant acrylic yarn is adroitly employed for the intricate patterns. In a forward-looking initiative aimed at mitigating the impacts of COVID-19 on the state’s markets and tourism sector, the Himachal Pradesh Handloom and Crafts Cooperation took a strategic step in 2021. They forged partnerships with renowned e-retailers like Flipkart and Amazon, thereby enabling the online sale of handloom products. This modern approach resonates with the ever-evolving landscape while preserving the essence of this traditional craft.

Fake Kullu Shawls Have Taken Over

The market landscape has witnessed the influx of machine-made shawls, with Ludhiana emerging as a hub for their production. This transition has sparked concerns not only among individual artisans and weavers but also within major cooperatives like Bhuttico, boasting an annual turnover of Rs 25 crore. The challenge arises from the difficulty tourists encounter in discerning between machine-made and handmade shawls, often leading them to unintentionally opt for the machine-made alternatives due to their lower cost. This shift threatens the livelihoods of traditional craftsmen and the sustainability of established cooperatives.

Approximately 15 years ago, the Union government enacted a parliamentary law prohibiting the production of handlooms on power looms. Despite this, shawls continue to be manufactured through power looms, both in Ludhiana and other locations. Even the Geographical Indicator (GI) Tag has not proven effective in addressing this challenge. To curb this practice, a concerted effort demands the implementation of stringent governmental policies, active patronage, and penalties against the sale of counterfeit (machine-made) Kullu shawls. The imperative lies in completely halting the production of such imitations to safeguard the authenticity and livelihoods associated with Kullu shawl weaving.

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