I Can See Spain From Here!

This is part five and the final installment of my five-part series on Morocco. I have provided links (in purple) whenever possible; several places do not have websites, but they often have Facebook, Instagram, and Wikipedia pages. Please be sure to read the notes at the end of this post as you consider traveling to this beautiful country.

Tangier is a Moroccan port on the Strait of Gibraltar that has been a strategic gateway between Africa and Europe since Phoenician times, as well as the connector of the Mediterranean and Atlantic. The medina rises on a hill above the Corniche, the boulevard and promenade along the shore. The medina seems a whitewashed city, but looking closer, there is much color there, a lot of history, and, as ever, wonderful people.

Chez Lisa and Charlie

Our time in Tangier was a completely different experience from our previous weeks in Morocco, as we were the guests in the home of of Lisa, one of our six travelers, and her husband Charlie.  They divide their year between Maryland and Tangier (not far from Charlie’s hometown) at the Villa Liza. Their home is a stunning example of Moroccan architecture, with exquisite zellij tiles, hand-carved plasterwork, carved doors, wooden screens, and intricate painted ceilings. We’ve known Lisa long enough to have lived vicariously through the process of building Villa Liza; we know well their joys and pains. Being guests in a private home, in a town familiar to our hosts, we didn’t have the same schedule as we’d had in other Moroccan cities — time was more relaxed with Lisa as our guide. And, we got to do laundry!

A Walk Along the Corniche

A pleasant drive or stroll along the Corniche is a wonderful way to start a visit to Tangier. This boulevard and promenade borders both modern and historic sections of the city on one hand, and on the other, a long beach with views across the water to the mountains of Spain, a starling realization that you are seeing Europe from Africa.  As you stroll, you can enjoy the goings-on at the beach, glimpse a camel, kids at play, or friends just strolling along, dreaming.

The American Legation Museum

A wonderful foray into the city’s medina — and U.S.-Moroccan history — is a visit to the American Legation Museum. It is housed in an 1821 Moorish-style conglomeration of several riads. Previously, it housed the United States Consulate. It is just 150 feet from the Bab Merican (American Gate), with its fascinating steep entryway. The museum documents early diplomatic relations between the U.S. and Morocco. Did you know that Morocco was the first nation in the world to formally recognized the new United States as a country, by signing Moroccan-American Treaty of Friendship in 1786? It the longest unbroken diplomatic relationship in U.S. history. The Legation Museum also tells the stories of various Americans who were, at some time, residents of Tangier. One of them was Paul Bowles. Bowles was a musician, composer, and author; he received a grant from the Rockefeller Foundation and sponsorship from the Library of Congress to collect recordings of traditional Moroccan music. You may know his name as the author of the somewhat bleak (my own opinion) novel, Sheltering Sky. Another of my favorite aspects of the museum was the stunning art collection featuring local and regional subjects. The modern American embassy is in the imperial city of Rabat on the Atlantic coast, the seat of King Mohammad VI.

El Minzah Hotel

As a gateway between continents, Tangier has seen a lot of prominent people pass through. Not too far from the Grand Socco (a.k.a. Place du Grand 9 Avril 1947), the El Minzah Hotel was host to some glamorous guests: King Juan Carlos of Spain, other princes and presidents, Prime Ministers including Sir Winston Churchill, and quite a few stars of stage and screen, among them Rita Heyworth, Rex Harrison, Rock Hudson, Farrah Fawcett Majors, Jean-Claude Van Damm, Douglas Fairbanks, Jr., Mary Pickford, Errol Flynn, Anthony Quinn, Gina Lollobrigida and possibly — if you believe the blurry photo in their gallery — Leonardo diCaprio. It was fun just moseying around and feeling these chapters of history around us. The bar and restaurant are open to non-guests; reservations are recommended.

Fondouk Chejra

When you go looking for something and it’s no longer there, make sure you don’t simply blame COVID or the economy before asking the simple question, “Did they move?” That’s what we did when we sought out Fondouk Chejra, a weaving studio, from whom Lisa had purchased many of the handwoven textiles at her home. We asked the “Moroccan GPS” (a shopkeeper), and learned the fondouk we sought was right around the corner in a temporary space (while renovations on their Rue de l’Amérique space is ongoing) on Rue Siaghine, between the Grand and Petit Socco. In we went and then up to the second floor, where we found many men working at hand looms making stunning fabrics. We met the owner, Mohammed, and his three sons: Hamza (not pictured), Jamaldil (weaving), and Ahmad (wearing the fez). They were very pleased to show us all their wares, as they knew we were there to buy. The quality — wonderful. Even Yves Saint Laurent knew enough to shop there.

We walked around the medina a bit, checking in on the feline life, signs in windows, and simply marveling at all the aspects of this beautiful city.

Ibn Battuta Museum

On the Rue Riad Sultan, just inside the Bab Al-Kasbah adjacent to El Morocco Club, you will find the Ibn Battuta Museum (Espace d’Exposition de la Mémoire d’Ibn Battouta). This was truly a highlight. It details the life of Ibn Battuta who was born in Tangier in the 14th century. He spent his life traveling much of the known world of his time, covering more than 60,000 miles and visiting capitals, meeting kings and military leaders, and eventually writing a book about his travels. My favorite display was the detailed map showing both the route and timeline of his travels, and what forms of transportation he took. A native of Tangier, his many trips took him to Timbuktu in Mali; to Kenya and Arabia; to Damascus, Bagdad, and Iran; to Constantinople, Samarkand, Delhi, Calcutta, Singapore and China. This was in the 1300s! Elsewhere in the museum were exhibits on other great travelers of the medieval Islamic world, notable among them Leo Africanus and Mansa Moussa (whose pilgrimage to Mecca is a favorite story of macroeconomists).

After the museum and found our way to a path overlooking the port and, of course, views of southwestern Spain. There was a group of young men (we nicknamed them the Back Street Boys) who seemed to be on our same itinerary. We then walked westward along Rue Assad Ibn Al Farrat which brought us to tombs from the Phoenician era, and further to Café Hafa.

Coffee

It’s funny how coffee is so important to its drinkers — just check your memes on Facebook or Instagram. But the fun part of café society, even for us non-coffee drinkers, is tagging along for the experience, as at Café Hafa (Rue Hafa, just off Avenue Hadj Mohamed Tazi). We would never have seen this historic and fascinating place had it not been for our caffeine-craving comrades. It opened in 1921 and has been serving coffee and mint tea (for which it is famous) to the likes of Paul & Jane Bowles, William S. Burroughs, the Beatles, The Rolling Stones, and Sean Connery. Oh, and us, of course.

Already mentioned is El Morocco Club — said to be the most expensive (and very good) restaurant in Tangier. We sat outside and had our mint tea (no cocoa, alas) while watching the world go by.

Later we enjoyed some some fantastic people-watching at the outdoor patio of Café Central on Rue Siaghine, just down the street from Fondouk Chejra. Susan, beautiful in her new Berber top, was happy to get warmer with some coffee. It was quite the hangout for Tangier’s young and hip crowd.

Unbeknownst to us, just around the corner from Café Central, is the Palais Zahia — a lovely new hotel with a rooftop café, perfect for one of those late afternoon/evening coffees. We got the tip on this place from Naoufal, a young man we met in Chefchaouen who lives in Tangier.

Certainly, highest on everyone’s list for his coffee and charm is Brahim Bbk Tanjawi, owner of a small street-front café that was recently mentioned in the Washington Post. Les Cafes Porto Rico is at Rue de La Plage, 21, and offers standard coffees, good hot chocolate, and its own special coffee with cinnamon and Moroccan spices. Stop by to say hello — you will enjoy the time you share with Brahim.

Meals at Villa Liza

I was so happy to get back into a kitchen! You have already seen my Oeufs Mimosa. I also created a Swordfish Tagine with Oranges and Black Olives using chermoula that I bought in Marrakech. Everyone also enjoyed my Zucchini and Chèvre Tart using ras el hanout. You will be seeing recipes for these soon on Cocoa & Lavender, in addition to a few other dishes I created.

The Motley Crew

Here we are — all six of us, bright-tailed and bushy-eyed after our whirlwind tour. I’d do it again in a heartbeat.

Casablanca | Hassan II Mosque

Casablanca — Hollywood romance notwithstanding — is a large industrial port and modern commercial city. One site very worth visiting is the only mosque open to non-Muslims in Morocco, the Hassan II Mosque. The seventh largest mosque in the world, it was completed in 1993.

We scheduled a 10:00 a.m. tour giving us plenty of time to continue on to the airport for our trip home. Our guide was Elham, Arabic for “inspiration.” The mosque was stunning, in both size and décor. The prayer hall can hold 25,000 inside with another 80,000 on the vast seaside terraces outside. On important holy days the mosque is packed.

All the construction materials — except two — are from Morocco: cedar wood from Azrou in the Middle Atlas Mountains, granite from Tafraoute, and marbles from Erfoud in the High Atlas Mountains and Agadir along the coast, and zellij from Fès. The two materials that were not from Morocco were from Italy — the Venetian chandeliers in the prayer hall and the Carrara marble panels and columns that set off the mihrab, the latter following centuries of tradition in the more elaborate Moroccan mosques. The central cove of the intricate ceiling can retract to open to the sky to admit light and air in hot weather. If you get to Casablanca, this is one thing to make sure you see.

Below the mosque is an immense ablution room and public hammam, accessible directly from the outside.

The tour for the six of us (all friends) was set up and administered by Medina Travel — Mr. Kamal Oujaâ — [email protected].

Things to note (this will repeated with each post):

• Many Moroccans do not speak English. French is the official third language of Morocco (after Arabic and Berber), is widely spoken, and a wonderful way to communicate.
• Do your best to learn a few words in Moroccan Arabic. It’s not difficult, and it makes a big difference to locals. A few that I learned: shukran (thank you); baraka Allah ufik (a very special thank you if someone has gone over and above for you); salaam (a shortening of Salaam aleikum – a greeting); labas (an informal greeting you might use with children that you meet on the street). I found myself holding my right hand over my heart when I thanked people, which is what they did for us.
• I’ve neglected to mention two very important things before: clothing and public displays of affection. The people of Morocco are loving and caring people, just never in public. Refrain from holding hands or other romantic gestures — save them for your private time. And, while you will see men and women (tourists) is shorts and sleeveless shirts, I advise dressing conservatively out of respect. Long slacks, modest-length skirts, shirts with sleeves (t-shirts are fine), etc.
• Remember that taking pictures of people (musicians, vendors in the souk, etc.) without their permission is frowned upon. If you want to take someone’s photograph, you must ask them. Don’t be surprised if they say no, or yes and request a tip in return. Sneaking a photo of someone can become unpleasant if you are discovered. If you purchase something from an artisan or market vendor, in most cases they are happy to have their photo taken.
• Unlike parts of Europe, tipping is a convention in Morocco. Generally, for a meal at a nice restaurant, 10% is a reasonable tip.
• There are a good number of banks with ATMs in the medina.
• While the water in Morocco has improved significantly, for those whose systems are not accustomed to it, it’s still best to use bottled water even when brushing your teeth.
• If you go on your own, I highly recommend asking your riad or hotel for a guide to take you around, especially on your first day in any city.