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In this article, you will learn how to read a crochet pattern. I will explain the in’s and out’s of a basic scarf pattern to get you started on your first crochet project.

If you’re like me when I began to crochet, you probably pinned a million crochet patterns to your boards with the intent of making every single one of them. Or you purchased some patterns from Etsy and put them on your to-do list.

But there was one problem…. You couldn’t read the pattern. But you are not alone. Whenever I post a project on Facebook, one of my Facebook friends always responds “I want to learn how to read a crochet pattern” and ask me to teach them how to read the pattern. As a result, I am sitting down to write this post for you guys, my new Crochet friends.

This is Part 2 of my series for new Crocheters. If you haven’t already done so, check out “7 Tools You’ll Need to Begin Your First Crochet Project”. I put together a shopping list of tools that you will need to add to your arsenal.

Taking the time learn to read a crochet pattern can be pretty easy, but it just comes down to finding the right one to get you started. You will want to start off with a simple pattern that has basic stitches and shouldn’t take you more than a few days to complete (depending on how many times you put your project down!). I have you covered in this department. In this article, I will be exploring my “Simple Striped Scarf for Beginners” pattern.

Download a free copy pattern that you can use to follow along. And best of all, because it’s my pattern, I will be there to support you along the way as you work your way through the scarf project.

Before we dive into the reading a pattern, I want to let you know that like anything else in the world, there are good and bad patterns. Some are pretty straight forward, while others will leave you scratching your head. But don’t get frustrated, just take the pattern one line at a time. And if you are truly stuck, reach out to the designer. We are human too, and sometimes what made since to us may not make sense to you, the maker. But once you learn to read a crochet pattern, it will become easier to decipher some of the more difficult patterns.

Having said that, there are different levels of patterns. Patterns that are featured in a magazine have gone through a rigorous amount of editing before it gets published. Some designers sell their patterns on sites like Etsy, Ravelry, or on their own website. Finally, you have free versions that you may find on a blog like this one. Wherever your pattern comes from, they are sure to have the basic sections that help you, the maker, complete successfully their pattern. After all, it’s all about you!

Sections of Patterns

So, let’s break a pattern down and discuss the different sections of a pattern. This will be a good point for you to download my free “Easy Striped Scarf Pattern”. I’ll be referencing that pattern throughout this post. You can download the PDF and follow along.

Each pattern has basic sections. Depending on the complexity of the pattern, it may or may not include the all sections listed below. The goal of the pattern is to give you, the maker, as much information as possible to successfully complete the project. The sections that may be included in your pattern are as follows:

• The Introduction/Description
• Sizes/Finished Measurements
• Yarn/Materials/Notions
• Gauge
• Pattern Graph
• Abbreviations Used
• Special Stitch Instructions/Notes
• Pattern Instructions

Now let’s look at each section in detail and learn how to read a crochet pattern!

The Introduction/Description

The designer will most likely provide an introduction or description of the pattern. This section gives the maker a brief introduction to the pattern. The designer may share what inspired them when they created the pattern, the type of material used, or any other details that they would like to include.

Note for future Handmade Business Owners: If you are intending to sell the item that you are making, the designer will specify if they will allow you to sell the finished product. Most designers don’t have a problem with it, they just as that you give them credit in your description on your website. In case you are wondering, you have my permission to sell the Easy Striped Scarf.

Sizes/Finished Measurements

This is where the designer will tell you what sizes are available. Measurements may be expressed in inches, centimeters, or sizes (i.e. Toddler, Child, Adult, or Small, Medium, and Large). For example, the scarf will be 48” (122cm) long and 11.25” (28cm) in height.

In addition, the pattern may have multiple sizes available. As a result, the designer will use this section to let you know how the sizes will be referenced throughout the pattern. You may something like this:

Instructions for sizes are marked as XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X)

or

Hips: 34 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 54)”

The number in the end of row will indicate how many stitches after each row or round that corresponds to the size that are you making.

The Easy Striped Scarf is one size, so you will not need to worry about different sizes.

Yarn/Materials/Notions

The Materials and Notions section is your shopping list. The designer may choose to separate them into two sections. But the basic idea is to let you what yarn the designer used to achieve the look in the picture, the recommended type of yarn (i.e. Worsted Weight, Bulky, etc.).

In addition, the designed will specify the hook size and any other tools used such as tapestry needles, scissors, and/or stitch markers. If you haven’t already done so, check out “7 Tools You’ll Need to Begin Your First Crochet Project” for a list of tools that every crocheter should have in their crochet bag.

Gauge

The gauge is one of the most important sections of the pattern. The gauge will tell you how many stitches and rows per square inch are needed to achieve the specified size. Most new crocheters are intimidated by the gauge. But it’s really all about stitches and rows.

It’s important to try to match the gauge as close as possible as this will affect the size of your finished product. I will go into detail in a later post, but for now just remember to always create a sample swatch to test your gauge. if you have more stitches and rows than what is recommended, then use a smaller hook. If you have less stitches and rows, then use a larger hook.

Let’s look at the scarf pattern. I specify that 13 Half Double Crochet stitches worked over 12 rows measures an approximate 4-inch square using a size 5.5mm crochet hook.

To make a swatch, you should crochet a 6×6” square. Place a stitch marker at stitch 3 and count 13 stitches. Measure the space between the stitch markers to see if that measures 4 inches. If your measurement is over 4 inches, then rework your swatch using a smaller hook. Alternatively, if your measurement didn’t quite measure up to 4 inches, then you will need to rework your swatch using a larger hook.

I can’t express how important it is to test your gauge, especially when making wearable items such as hats or garments.

Abbreviations Used

The Craft Yarn Council (CYC) has developed a set of standard abbreviations that designers follow. If the designer uses an abbreviation that is not standard, then they will explain the new stitch in the Special Stitch Instructions section. Click here to see the list of CYC standard abbreviations. In our scarf example, we are using one stitch and basic abbreviations. Below is an example of what you may see in this section:

After you have worked a few patterns, reading the abbreviations will become second nature.

Special Stitch Instructions/Notes

As I mentioned earlier, this is where the designer will explain any special stitches used or any other part of the pattern that they feel could use an additional explanation. Also, I personally use this section to explain any adjustments that can be made. See an example of how I use it in the scarf pattern:

For example, in the scarf pattern you could opt to make it longer or shorter, depending on your preference. In the middle of the scarf, you can choose to add more rows to make it longer or subtract rows to make it shorter. This is just one example of the type of information that may find in this section.

Pattern Instructions

This this is where the magic happens. This is where you put yarn to hook and begin your creation! So let’s decode the a pattern. Before we get into it, remember my advice take the pattern one line at a time!

Before we get started, this would be a good time to download “My Row Counter” to keep track of your rows as you work up your scarf.

Depending on what you are making you will either be working in rounds (rds) or rows. The scarf pattern will be worked in rows. Meaning, you will be crocheting back and forth.

The first line says the following:

Row 1 – Using the main color Ch 37. Hdc in the 2^nd chain from hook and each st across. Ch2 and turn (35)

In plain English, this says that for your first row,

1. You are to start with your main color and chain 37 stitches (Ch 37).
2. Count back two stitches and Half Double Crochet (Hdc) into that stitch (Hdc in the 2^nd chain from hook).
3. Next finish the row by placing a Half Double Crochet in each stitch across (and each st across)
4. At the end of the row, you should chain 2 (Ch2) and turn your work (Ch2 and turn).
5. Finally, numbers in parenthesis tells you that you should have a total of 35 half double crochet stitches (35).

The next line is what we like to call a repeat. Meaning that you will just repeat the row again and again for the specified number of times. The next line reads:

Row 2-9 – Hdc in each st across. Ch2 and turn.

This means that from rows 2 – 9, you will just Hdc in each stitch across, chain 2, turn your work and do it again. Notice the (35) was dropped at the end. This is because it is the same from the previous row and throughout the pattern. Some designers will drop the number or choose to keep it.

Now in row 10, there is change at the end of the row. You are going to change colors.

Row 10–  Hdc the next 34 sts across. Change to the stripe color in st 35 (refer to the stitch notes above). Ch2 and turn.

Let’s break this row down like we did in the first row.

1. You are going to continue to crochet the Hdc in next 34 stitches as did in the previous row (Hdc the next 34 sts across).
2. However, when you get to stitch 35, you will need to do a color change (Change to the stripe color in st 35).
3. Remember that special notes section of the pattern. Well I reference it here to help you with the color change (35 (refer to the stitch notes above).
4. Now you will finish the row with a Chain 2 and turn (Ch2 and turn.)

You can continue through each line of the pattern reading each line the same way. The period in the rows indicate a new instruction. The pattern continues on with a combination of color changes to create two stripes on each side of the scarf.

That’s it! See it didn’t take long to learn to read a crochet pattern! Now it just takes practice. The more you crochet, the easier it will become.

Make sure that you bookmark the Craft Yarn Council abbreviations, as you will need it when you refer to abbreviation section of the pattern.

Let’s Stay Connected

I would love to see how your scarf came out. Tag @hookedbytyese on Facebook or #hookedbytyese on Instagram!!!! Or comment on Pinterest if you have tried this link.

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