INSIDE/OUTSIDE STUDIO

INSIDE/OUTSIDE Studio, is a label that I anticipated would be exciting. Certainly, as far as Fashion is concerned I have good instincts, and in this case they were right. The new buzz word in the fashion world is sustainable fashion. However, this fashion buzz word is not a trend, it is a movement that has the goal of helping to save this planet.  Moreover, as our globe teeters on the edge of self-imposed destruction, we need the example of labels like INSIDE / OUTSIDE STUDIO, to lead the way.

While many are still engaged in the purchase of fast fashion and what I call throw away trends, the development of sustainable fashion labels is growing. Moreover. there seem to be many different ideas on how to achieve these goals. One idea is the use of recycled materials . The following excerpt is taken from the VANCOUVER FASHION WEEK website;

ABOUT INSIDE/OUTSIDE STUDIO

JULIA TALITA PAGENKOPF is a German M.A. fashion designer based in Berlin with a crush on Japanese culture and a passion for interdisciplinary projects with a sustainable angle. After finishing her B.A. fashion design degree with honors at HAW Hamburg she worked for three years on the design team of Adidas Women’s Training and Adidas by Stella McCartney. During this time she did a deep dive into sustainable fashion strategies on a global scale and developed the concept and design of a zero waste capsule collection. Additionally she has been working as a freelance designer for a number of projects including a role as Head of Design at the German premium sportswear brand KCA-Lab and s.Oliver ACTIVE.

In the beginning of 2019, Julia created her own label, INSIDE / OUTSIDE Studio, driven to push the fashion industry toward a sustainable future by prolonging the life-cycle of clothing. During her Master studies at HTW Berlin and Kwansei Gakuin University Japan she focused on brand design and sustainability in fashion and deepened her knowledge of Japanese aesthetics and culture which lead to the creation of the radically sustainable collection TRANSCULTURAL DECONSTRUCTION. Based on the Japanese ‘Wabi-Sabi’ philosophy in which imperfection is celebrated, she uses secondhand and discarded textiles from Japan and Germany to create new silhouettes that merge traditions from both cultures :excerpt from Vancouver Fashion Week website.

INSIDE/OUTSIDE STUDIO

TRANSCULTURAL DECONSTRUCTION

Since, my main theme this fashion week is diversity INSIDE/OUTSIDE STUDIO, is a perfect example. In fact, how more diverse is a German label using a Japanese philosophy to produce fashion and show it at a Canadian fashion show. INSIDE/OUTSIDE STUDIO uses discarded textiles from both Germany and Japan to create a collection that follows the Japanese philosophy of Wabi-Sabi. “Wabi-sabi” is a Japanese term that essentially means finding beauty in imperfection. Wabi refers to living with humility and simplicity while being at one with nature, while sabi is defined as the ability to accept the lifecycle of anything as it is—flaws and all.

INSIDE/OUTSIDE STUDIO

TRANSCULTURAL DECONSTRUCTION ON THE RUNWAY

Vancouver Fashion Week October 7 2019 . The first night of Vancouver Fashion Week had me waiting to see the new fashions for S/S 2020. My well intended use of the word new applies only to the designs of INSIDE/OUTSIDE STUDIO and not the materials used to create them. I am a long time lover of vintage and recycled clothing and textiles. Certainly, working as a costume designer I often used second-hand clothing and antiquated textiles to create costumes. However, the idea of creating an entire collection out of recycled textiles and clothing fascinates me. I was excited and awed by the creations of INSIDE/OUTSIDE STUDIO.

From the time the first model hit the runway to the last I was fascinated by the garments that appeared. The first thing that stands out about this collection is the use of pattern and print.  Large scale plaids, dots, eyelet pattern, and floral are featured elements of the garments.  The floral patterns are Japanese in style while the plaids and checks are European. The juxtaposition of patterns create an uneasy harmony, an under lying energy that is almost ready to explode.

Red is a unifying color in the collection, slashes, dots and trims keep the garments related. A neutral beige and black have a grounding aspect. The use of a large variety of textiles gives the organized chaos a character that I love about these clothes . The first outfit shows the use of the recycled fabrics , plaid cotton, lace trim, ivory satin, sequin and fringe are combined in a flourish of movement and style.

The idea of wabi-sabi is evident in the sophisticated combinations of fabrics that create an imperfect integrity. In less talented hands Julia's combinations of recycled textiles could be a hot mess , but in this case it works.

The silhouettes and shapes of the clothes is where I can see the two cultures most. The more traditional dresses of Germany are incorporated with the looser fitting Japanese silhouette. Kimono style sleeves and the obi (the traditional Japanese Sash) are incorporated with western peter pan collars and buttons. The overall effect of these diverse cultures being brought together is harmonious. The soft flowing robes of Japan are next to the structured pleats of  German design.

INSIDE/OUTSIDE STUDIO

WHAT'S HOT

MY ORANGE CRUSH

Darling's there are few trends that caught my eye as much as a "a pop of orange". During Vancouver Fashion Week the trend came to the forefront not only on the runway but in the street style.  New York, London, Paris, and Milan Fashion Weeks all showed us pops off orange. Therefore, my dears if you don't want to look like the great pumpkin this October but want to be on trend try a pop of orange.

click image for details

Rag & Bone

Valentino

Portolano

Balenciaga

Reinhard Plank Hats

Fjallraven

Portolano

Jeffrey Campbell

Valentino

INSIDE/OUTSIDE STUDIO

IN CONCLUSION

When covering Vancouver Fashion Week it is great to see the wide range of designers presenting. INSIDE/OUTSIDE STUDIO stands out as a label with a unique perspective. Furthermore, what I like is that this label has an ideology. I would like to see more designers tackle the idea of sustainable fashion. Please reach out if you have ideas for future posts .Furthermore if you have a fashion event you would like me to cover send me a message.

The gloves are my orange pop.

CIAO FOR NOW J. ANDREW