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A golden glimmer bursting out from the heart of parched Thar Desert, Bikaner has still remained one of the unexplored and unappreciated gems in the regally ornate state of Rajasthan. It is hardly a surprise that it has sparsely featured in the recountings of travel bloggers and writers and if anything comes up at all, it’s mostly about the famous Camel Festival that takes place every year and the latest edition of which culminated 3 days ago with much fanfare.

A major trade centre in the old era linking central Asia and North India with the Gujarat seaports, it was called ‘Jangladesh’ in early 15th century. The region comprised Churu, Ganganagar, Bikaner and Hanumangarh. The barren wilderness was then conquered by a Rajput king in 1486 AD who had strayed away from his home kingdom of Mewar to claim a territory of his own. This king was called Rao Bika and so he renamed the region Bikaner.

With the harsh desert surrounding the city, victory stayed by Bika’s side and no enemy could withstand the weather, giving the town time to come to its full glory.

Bustling bazaar with women in colorful clothes and bangles, merchants and traders by the sidewalks selling and keeping accounts, local bazaars with exquisite spices, jewelry, and crafts, passing camels through the serpentine lanes, keeps the life in Bikaner still embedded in the splendor medieval traditions, cultures, customs. This is what makes Bikaner a quintessence Rajasthan experience, going beyond the extravaganza and revelry of festivals, forts, and palaces.

When it comes to seeing the architectural marvels of Bikaner, Junagarh Fort is the icon of it all. One of the few forts in India that remained unconquered, Junagarh Fort was built by Akbar’s contemporary Raja Jai Singh. The fort paints a true picture of the splendorous lives of the rulers who lived here. There are thirty-seven palaces, pavilions, and temples and the interiors of the fort are full of intricate floral patterns on ceilings and walls, sandstone balconies, sandalwood doors, balustrades and beautiful lacy and latticed windows, that the women in purdah used to see the city. The fort also houses a rare ancient sandalwood throne of Kanauj kings, which is touted to be the oldest existing piece of furniture in India. The fort museum has a collection of ancient Indian and Persian manuscript along with outstanding examples of Rajasthani jewelry, enamelware, gold and silver boxes, ceremonial vessels, draperies, and carpets.

Another palace in Bikaner, the Lalgarh palace came into existence much later but is still one of the coveted places to see.   A perfect blend of oriental fantasy and European luxury, this palace was commissioned by Maharaja Ganga Singh and designed by Sir Swinton Jacob in the early 20th century. Built around an open garden court, this exquisite palace was bedizened by local craftsmen who carved its cupolas, balconies, umbrella domes, and windows so delicately that the sandstones look like soft laces. The relics of the past and glory of the royal clan are now housed in the Sadul Museum in the same complex. From the replica of the first royal train of Bikaner, medals of the royal clan, clothing, photographs of important moments to weapons and more, this museum is a history lover’s paradise.

The Jain temples of Bikaner also attract many travelers as they are the oldest existing structure in the town. Built by two merchant brother, the temples are called Bandeshwar temple and Neminath Sandeshwar Temple with the circular pavilions in them featuring extremely well-preserved frescos of battles, local historical events, and parades of elephants and camels.

Many of those in Bikaner also visit the famous and unique Karni Mata temple  It is a famous temple devoted to the goddess Karni, a patron deity of Bikaner’s royal family. The temple is filled with auspicious rats that live within the temple walls.

Among one of the oldest temples in Bikaner, Lakshminath temple was built by Maharaja Rao Lunakaran between 1504 and 1526. With frescos on outer walls and intricate carvings inside, it houses the idol of Vishnu in the embrace with his consort Lakshmi. One of the other places of importance for Royals in Bikaner is Devi Kund Sagar. After the cremation here of a member of the royal family, a chhatri marks the passage on earth. Some are made in Dulmera red sandstone and others in marble. There is a pond at the back and the ritual was to bathe in this after the cremation. But now none can brave the green murky water, although pink lotuses flower there.

When in Bikaner, one can’t help being fascinated with the colorfulness splashed around the local bazaars making it one hell of an interesting shopping destination. Full of local handicrafts and souvenirs, Bikaner is also famed for products made of camel skin. Gold lacquered pottery, hand block printed ethnic textiles, and exotic gold and silver jewelry, hand woven carpets and camel hair blankets are some of the specialties of the local bazaar.

There is but so much to Bikaner, and as unexplored as it may remain, the inviting memorials of the bygone golden era and traditions of its royal heritage still stand defiantly through the passage of time.

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